An OK Day on Camelback

Weather:  76º, sun

Time:  34 minutes

About this Hike:  It's one of the coolest and wettest Octobers on record the TV weather say.  I originally planned to hike Camelback yesterday morning, but just as I was about to leave it started to rain.  And rain.  And rain some more. In fact, rain didn't let up until just after 3pm yesterday. 

People post majestic pictures of the waterfalls that form on Camelback during rain.  Much as I'd love to experience that firsthand, the slick rocks and fear of falls/injury kept me indoors during a rare rainy Saturday in Phoenix. 

But today the clouds had parted and the sun shone once again in Phoenix.  I had a theory that with last week's win all the fair-weather Cardinals fans would be watching the game.  In past years during the autumn NFL season this theory has proved true and trailheads have been empty.

Today that was not the case.  Camelback was packed.  I had trouble getting parking, and when I did, it was a spot I was less than comfortable leaving my car in.  The trails were crowded, and many hikers were from out of town based on their conversations, lack of trail etiquette, etc.

Parts of the trail were still damp, and at one point a little stream was tricking down the mountainside.  Very cool.  Otherwise, I was admittedly grumpy on this hike.  The crowds, constant bottlenecks, people nipping at my heels, worrying about my car in the parking lot—it all kinda got to me. 

But, in the end my car was OK.  And I was OK.  And it was a good workout on this beautiful October Sunday afternoon. 

King of Camelback

Weather:  99º, sun

Time:  36 minutes

About this Hike:  The Sonoran Desert hasn't gotten the memo:  No 110º after Labor Day!  Today's heat is above-average for mid-September.  Perhaps this is what drove hikers away and allowed for a nearly empty parking lot at Echo Canyon this morning.

I was surprised that I posted a 36 minute time to the summit.  However, I think my S-Health app may have started inadvertently auto-pausing the timer when I stop for a rest.  I planned to offer myself a generous handicap, but when I saw the 36 minute time, I decided to record it as official.   

There were a lot of rest and hydration stops today.  My nearly 24-oz electrolyte water bottle was gone before the summit.  (Don't worry, I carry plenty of extra water.)  In spite of this, my core temperature was high today.

A unique occurrence happened shortly after I summited.  One other guy was up there.  He began his descent and I had the summit to myself.  I was King of the Mountain.  This may have happened one other time on Camelback.  It for-sure happened once on a brisk winter morning (by Sonoran Desert standards!) atop Piestewa. 

At least I sure hope I was king.  I posed my phone on a rock, set the camera timer, and took some goofy selfies next the Camelback summit post—not planning to post those on here though!

The relative solitude made a for a certain zen on this hike, despite the high temps.  On the way down two guys temporarily ruined my zen while talking about how they needed to find a nice place to fall, because they owe this to fate and just want to get it over with.  One even talked about how he needed to crack his tailbone.  I got away from them...I don't need negative energy and vibes like that... As it is I stress a lot on these hikes.  We all see the mountain rescues on local Phoenix TV stations.  I'm an extremely careful hiker.  The only stat I want to be is one of the thousands who climbs Camelback, has an awesome time, and then goes home.

Today was otherwise a perfect, hot hike.

Echo Canyon & Mountain Rescue

Weather:  95º, humid, sun

Time:  36 minutes

About this Hike:  After a week visiting family in Upstate NY it was time for a good Phoenix hike again.  Much heavy restaurant food was consumed, all washed down with plenty of local craft brews.  It was time to sweat it out and get back to feeling good about myself again.

Parking was abundant this morning, although other hikers slowed me down a few times.  That, and the scorching desert sun, plus monsoon humidity, did nothing to help my time to the top.  The views from the summit were exceptionally clear this morning, with haze being heaviest over the east valley. 

On descent I moved wrong and hurt my right shoulder.  It's not severe at all, but it put a damper on the remainder of the hike and left me pondering ominous what-if questions.  However, as I slung myself down the steep embankment where there's just one railing for both sides, I noted a guy with cuts on the side of his face also gripping the railing.  He was conversing with other hikers as he worked his way down, so I didn't think much of it. 

Distant sirens began to approach the Echo Canyon parking lot.  As I finished the railings and rounded the railroad-tie stairs, the parking area came into view.  Fire trucks and EMTs were pulling in.

As I neared the trailhead, EMTs laden with the big wheel and other life-saving gear were on the ascent.  An EMT asked a hiker in front of me if she'd seen the guy and they discussed his injury.  It was the guy I saw with the scrapes on the side of his face.  I hope he's OK, and I wouldn't be surprised if we get the story on tonight's local news. 

This afternoon as I type my blog my right shoulder is fine.  It maybe feels a bit tight, but then again I've been having a lot of unrelated shoulder problems these past few weeks.  I have much to be grateful for including a beautiful, safe hike this morning.

Post-Monsoon Camelback Echo Canyon

Weather:  97º, humid, sun

Time:  35 minutes

About this Hike:  Temps might be lower, but humidity is waaay up.  Last night we had a thorough soaking from the third monsoon storm in a row. I'm not complaining though; we need this rain bad.

The humidity definitely slowed me down a bit, what with frequent water breaks.  Otherwise, the mountain wasn't overly crowded today, but it wasn't desolate either.  Parking in the main lot was easy.

The trails were well dried out, as the desert soil seems to do.  Erosion from rain and hikers' boots is definitely prevalent on the Echo Canyon trail right now. 

At the summit there were gnats and dragonflies everywhere, hence why I didn't stay long.  Today was a routine, enjoyable monsoon-season hike.

See Canyon #184 - Up the Rim

Weather:  88º, humid, partly cloudy

About this Hike:  See Canyon has been on the bucket list for a while now.  A last-minute deal at Kohl's Ranch outside of Payson meant this was to be another rim weekend. 

See Canyon trail traverses the Mogollon Rim, and if you're daring (as we were), allows you to hike up the entire rim in just under four miles.

There are two trailheads for #184.  One is in the little community of Christoper Creek just off AZ-260 E, and this is the one we opted to park at.  From Christopher Creek Loop, you simply turn onto FR 284 (confusing, since the trail number is 184) and follow it to a large parking area.  FR 284 is a good dirt road with a few sections that might be considered light rock crawl.  Other than that it's good, packed dirt. 

The other trailhead is on top of the rim.  It branches off from FR-300, also known as Rim Road.  Think of this like the Grand Canyon:  Get the easy downhill part over with first, and then hike back up it afterward!

We're the type who like to eat the frogs first...  This meant climbing the rim first and then taking it easy on the way down.  The hike starts in typical, beautiful Arizona high-country forest.  There are several crossings over Christopher Creek, which had just the right amount of water following weeks of monsoon activity this summer.  It's noteworthy to mention that the numerous washes along this trail were otherwise dry. 

Trail 184 eventually begins its steady ascent to the top of the rim.  The worst is at the end, with a steep section of light scree that requires some careful hand and foot work to ensure stable footing.  Shortly thereafter the sound of OHVs becomes more apparent.  Rim Road comes into sight. 

The hike down is a nice way to decompress.  Christopher Creek is at ~5,900 feet, while the Rim Road trailhead sits at close to 7,900 feet.  This hike involves nearly 2,000 feet of elevation gain in just under four miles! 

While we didn't see abundant wildlife on this hike, we did meet a few interesting fellow hikers. These included people with loppers and axes that mercifully were not something out of a horror movie... In fact, they were part of a service organization that maintains the trails.  A sign denotes this not too far from the trailhead.  Their service was appreciated, as soft, monsoon-fed grasses were making for some light bushwhacking in spots. 

Last year some people at Beaver Creek near Sedona were water angels to another hiker that was with me (and didn't prepare accordingly).  Our hike might've been cut short if they hadn't saved the day with an extra water bottle.  I've wished to pay this forward, and today was our chance.  We met a friendly, but exhausted couple on trail in need of some extra water.  Word of advice:  Trail #184 is NOT a mountain biking trail.  Unless, that is, you like carrying your bike up 2,000 feet over nearly four miles.

Epilogue:  This hike took about four hours total.  Next on the agenda was a drive up Rim Road to Bear Canyon Lake for some kayaking.  One more beautiful canyon-bound, pine-enshrouded, rim lake checked off the bucket list. 

On the way up to Bear Canyon Lake we spotted the Rim Road trailhead for See Canyon #184.  We also spotted a familiar couple now on their mountain bikes pedaling along Rim Road. Kind of ironic...

Blue Ridge Reservoir

Weather:  78, clouds and sun, t-storms

About this Trip:  The canyon-bound, serpentine Blue Ridge Reservoir (also known as the C.C. Cragin Reservoir) has intrigued me for a while now.  This spring’s unfortunate Tinder Fire, my interest in the Rim Lakes, and the recent lifting of all fire restrictions spurred my curiosity about this location. 

The drive is easy from Phoenix.  Take the Beeline Highway (AZ-87) north thru Payson, Pine, and Strawberry.  Turn right at well-signed Forest Rd. 751 and follow it to the lake.  FR 751 is a graded dirt road.

When I arrived Saturday afternoon I expected big crowds from the ‘heavy’ usage rating given by the Forest Service.  My first stop was to setup camp at Rock Crossing Campground.  The fee is $8/night at this campground. 

Admittedly I’ve never been much of a camper, so I’m learning as I go.  Pro tip:  Bring exact change and/or your checkbook (checks are accepted at the self-pay stations).  I ended up finding some kind campers who broke a $20 for me, but I still made a $2 donation above the $8 fee to the USFS.  I’m OK with it because USFS and our public lands are awesome.

No sooner was I checked in to the campground than an aggressive thunderstorm blew in––common on the Rim during monsoon season.  Rather than sit in my car at the campground, I decided to get ready for kayaking and drive down to the lake.  Monsoon storms seldom last long. 

Upon my arrival at the lake, kayakers, swimmers, and paddleboarders were hastily exiting the water––smart idea when lightening is overhead.  Thanks to this mass exodus, I scored one of only six parking spots on the paved boat ramp.  Overflow parking is in the dirt lot up a steep hill. 

The storm slowed briefly, then started up again, this time with hail.  Thankfully it was soft hail and not the type that would’ve done damage to my truck.  In fact, watching the hail hit the lake down in the canyon below was an interesting sight.

Sufficiently sure the storm had moved on, myself and a few other brave souls made our way down the steep boat ramp (the lake is very low right now) and launched.  I went to the right (east) from the launch point.  Within a short time I reached a murky, muddy swamp.  The rich, saturated soil was carpeted with tender, green plants.  Blame the low water levels. 

Turning around, I headed west and then southwest along the narrow, winding lake.  It’s something like a canyon-bound river (minus the current) with steep, etched sandstone cliffs and evergreen high-country foliage.  

Eventually I reached the Blue Ridge Dam.  Testament to low water levels, the spillway loomed no less than 100 feet above me.  There’s no buoy line and you can go right up to this dam if you like.  I prefer to stay away for fear of being sucked under the dam. 

Shortly after passing the dam I had a tipping point.  The sky was filling with dark clouds.  I heard a rumble of thunder.  Nervous and alone on this remote part of the lake, I turned back.  In AZ Monsoon fashion the clouds broke up and skirted the lake.  The intense sunshine returned and I decided once again to pull a 360 and continue up the lake.  Shortly thereafter I reached the other end of the lake.  A muddy swampy mess greeted me again.  All told, I covered this lake at its current fill level in about three hours. 

In the early spring I may want to return to Blue Ridge.  Assuming reasonable winter precip (something 2017-18 lacked) the locals say this lake fills to the brim and the spillway activates.  I’d love to see more of this narrow, winding waterway when it’s full.

Monsoon Clouds, Giant Swallowtails, & Camelback

Weather:  93º, humid, cloudy

Time:  33.5 minutes

About this Hike:  Monsoon 2018 is in full force.  Temps area little lower, humidity levels are higher, and clouds are hanging over the Valley.  While the blazing sun was not an issue today, the humidity definitely took it's toll on my time up the mountain.

Initially, I thought weather conditions may spur a rush of hikers at Echo Canyon, filling up the parking lot.  I probably was correct early this morning.  The 'Lot Full' sign was tossed to the side, but precariously close to blocking the entrance.  Upon my mid-morning arrival parking was abundant.  Again, I needlessly burned two-times the Vitamin G by driving the Xterra instead of the Mazda.  (I do this because I'm particular about where I park the Mazda; I'm more lenient with the old Xterra.)

It was an enjoyable hike on crowd-free trails.  Views from the top were beautiful in the gray light, and the air around the Valley seems cleaner now that this rain-less spell is behind us.  Large black butterflies (Giant Swallowtails?) swarmed the summit as they often do once monsoon moisture gets in the air. 

All in all, a fantastic day for a hike on the camel's back.

Chevelon Canyon Lake - One Check Off the Bucket List

Weather:  75º, very sunny, breezy

About this Hike:  I seldom blog about my kayaking adventures, this in spite of the fact that I consider kayaking to be hiking over water.

A year or so ago I found a place on the map called Chevelon Canyon Lake.  High on the Mogollon Rim, this man-made inpound of Chevelon Creek beckoned to me.  In June 2016 I kayaked Willow Springs Lake, which happens to be another reservoir on Chevelon Creek.  Willow Springs sits next to AZ-260 and is much more accessible.  Chevelon Canyon, on the other hand, requires about 18 miles over dirt roads.  Warnings everywhere advise it's 'the most remote of the Rim Lakes.'

The drive sounded daunting and was a big part of what kept me from Chevelon Canyon.  I couldn't find good answers regarding the series of dirt roads that lead up to the lake.  Arizona Highways described the final stretch as 'deeply rutted,' in an undated article.  The internet does not abound with information either.  People I spoke to told me everything from, "I did it in a sedan!" to, "High clearance, 4WD recommended."

I even called the Black Mesa Ranger District where a ranger described the road as 'improved gravel.'  With dry conditions this year, I figured erosion on the road would be low.  I decided to give it a try in my RWD Xterra.

Undeniably, I was nervous as FR-300 (Rim Road) gave way to dirt just after Woods Canyon Lake.  FR-300 is a wide, well-maintained dirt road.  Other than some washboarding, which was worse on the inbound side, this is a fine dirt road.  Next is a right turn onto FR-169, where the bulk of the drive takes place.  FR-169 is everything a dirt/gravel road should be.  Seldom washboardy, no ruts, well maintained.  All of these roads are well signed, too.

Another right onto FR-169B encompasses the last two miles of the journey.  FR-169B is said to be the worst section of this drive.  Narrower and strewn with small rocks, FR-169B is a little rough in places.  There are a couple hills that are rutted and tricky, but not bad by any means.  At no point was I nervous about a tip over.  I should also mention that there are no steep drops off the side of any of these roads.

Finally, the Chevelon Canyon Lake Campground came into view.  I nabbed a fantastic campsite (it's first come, first served) in a corner area.  My Xterra was shaded by a big juniper.  My site at this primitive campground was complete with picnic table and a taped-off fire ring.  (We're lucky Chevelon Canyon is even open right now; much of Apache-Sitegraves Forest is closed.)  I should also mention that while this is considered a remote area, my Verizon cell phone seldom had fewer than two bars...

Getting to the lake from the campground takes another 3/4 mile hike down into the canyon.  Remember that what goes down must come up, even after a long day of paddling on the lake.  This is along an old, unmaintained road that is gated at the campground.  ATVs can drive this section of the road.  My guess would be this road was last used when the large concrete spillway that protects the earthen dam was poured.

I carried my kayak down the entire way.  It was tough work, but the views on this remote, beautiful lake were worth it.  A kind gentleman on a quad offered to haul it up for me at the end of the day.

Finally, I shot some video of the drive out of the campground along FR-169B.  Use this to make your own assessment, but remember, monsoon rains, snow, etc. can quickly change a dirt road.

Hot Camelback

Weather:  95º, very sunny

Time:  32 minutes

About this Hike:  According to my records the last time I visited Camelback Echo Canyon was Presidents Day.  As in, back in February. 

My phone record 34 minutes and 44 seconds today.  I am giving myself a handicap on the time due to a number of necessary quick hydration stops.

Admittedly my in-city mountain hikes of choice (Piestewa and Camelback) haven't been my highest Saturday priority anymore.  I have a little bit of PTSD from the nearly shattered knee at Piestewa May 6, 2016.  But I walked away from that fall relatively OK. 

Much as I love a good hike, the thought of falling, getting injured, and not hiking again haunts me.  Even after I meet my crappy insurance's high deductible, would an injury bankrupt me?  These thoughts race through my mind and suddenly a hike doesn't sound so appealing anymore.  Yeah, I've dealt with these feelings a lot lately.

But today I had a great opportunity to visit Camelback.  Summertime heat drives away the crowds by mid-morning.  I had it in my head that with The Valley's ever-growing population it was going to be crowded today.  I drove my old gas-guzzling Xterra up there, ready to snatch any available parking space (I'm very particular where my Mazda gets parked).  Good parking spots were abundant, and had I driven the Mazda I would've used about the half the gas.  Oh well...it's only five miles each way. 

So about this hike....Distance makes the heart grow fonder, and I thoroughly enjoyed seeing Echo Canyon again.  Honestly, the heat is a small price to pay for easy parking, less crowded trails, and a certain degree of solitude.  There was one regular hiker in front of me who said it was his sixth time up the mountain today.  I consider myself to be in decent shape, but after one summit and down at Camelback I feel like I accomplished a work and a half for the day.  This older dude put me to shame. 

Humming birds were abundant, and I nearly used a chuckwalla's crevice as a handhold.  Thankfully I saw him in time, or he might not have been too happy with me.  That was all the wildlife I saw today. 

Despite some haze over the East Valley and McDowell Mountains to the north, the rest of the Central Phoenix was pretty clear today.

All in all an enjoyable, hot summertime hike. 

Cathedral Rock & Little Falls – Mt. Charleston Nevada

Weather:  77º, sunny

About this Hike:  After spending the night at Mt. Charleston Resort, it was time for another day of exploring the abundance of trails in the area.  Cathedral Rock (not to be confused with the Sedona landmark I’ve hiked multiple times) is a striking granite escarpment in the Spring Mountains near Charleston Peak.

We parked at a large, paved lot and picked up the well-signed trail from there.  Before reaching Cathedral Rock a side excursion to Little Falls proved to be another waterfall bonus.  These falls were flowing at a trickle with ice-cold water from above.  Climbing up to one of the falls revealed a hand/foot hold with a perfect fossil shell entombed in the granite.

Getting higher toward Cathedral Rock the trail splits off.  A signpost indicates the junction, but the actual sign is missing.  At this point rooftops of the town below dot the landscape.  Cell reception is strong, and these trails are plotted on Google Maps.  We chose the left fork which led to some awesome views of the town.  Eventually it dead-ended and Google Maps said we were at Little Falls, which made no sense as we had visited the falls a ways back while we were still climbing.  There is a deep, narrow canyon wash below and a large sewer cap at the end of this trail.

We doubled back to the junction and went right.  A little more hill climbing and we were atop Cathedral Rock.  Majestic views of the surrounding Spring Mountains and the town below greeted us. 

While time only permitted two good hikes in Mt. Charleston, we plan to head back. There are so many more trails to explore in this desert oasis.

Cathedral Rock

Shell fossil

Mary Jane Falls – Mt. Charleston Nevada

Weather:  76º, sunny

About this Hike:  Far as I know, this trail’s name has nothing to do with Nevada’s recent legalization of recreational cannabis.  Regardless, it’s amazing this sanctuary exists in the hills just northwest of Las Vegas.  An easy, and relatively short, drive from casinos and parched desert leads you into old-growth forest with towering evergreens and majestic granite cliffs.

Hiking trails abound up here, with well-signed and groomed trailheads branching from all over the main highway.

While Arizona has been in unprecedented drought since the conclusion of 2017’s lackluster monsoon, Nevada has enjoyed considerably more rain.  And of course, the sky island of Mt. Charleston gets considerably more rain than the Vegas valley below.

A steep hike over graded switchback trails eventually gives way to Mary Jane Falls.  Speaking of all the rain, these falls were flowing which was a nice bonus.  The flow wasn’t incredible, but I’d say it was above a trickle.  Likely fed by fast-melting snowfields in the highest reaches near Charleston Peak, I’m not sure how much longer till these falls go dry.  The water was clean and cold, and it fed a rich carpet of wildflowers and grasses in the wash below.

During this out-and-back hike we also enjoyed many old growth trees including Rocky Mountain douglas fir and aspen. There wasn’t much wildlife to speak of, but this is a fairly busy trail.  I can just imagine the crowds beating Vegas heat up here on a summer weekend.

Aspen and pine forest

Flowing falls

West Spruce Trail 264 - Prescott National Forest

Weather:  73º, dry, sunny, windy

About this Hike:  This is not to be confused with Spruce Mountain near the Groom Creek area of Prescott.  Spruce Mountain Lookout was the first hike I ever did in Prescott National Forest.  But trail 264 is actually two separate trails.  One branches off near town from Thumbe Butte Rd. and the other begins on Doce Mine Rd. just off of Iron Springs Rd. 

We opted for the latter trailhead.  Doce Mine Rd. isn't hard to find—and if you keep your eyes open for it—a sunburned sign indicates Trail 264 turnoff is ahead while you're still on Iron Springs Rd.  You can try these GPS coordinates for the trailhead (I take no responsibility but these coordinates worked for me:  34°34'12.4"N 112°37'22.4"W).  Also note that Google Maps incorrectly spells it 'Dosie.'

The road to the trailhead is bumpy but in OK condition.  My Xterra handled it well.  A Subaru Crosstrek was also eating up this road.  From the turnoff, it's 2.7 miles down Doce to the parking area.  There's a large campfire ring and turnoff on the right, and this is where I'd suggest parking.  I chose to park a little further up on an area of fine black, lava-like rock. 

Trail #264 starts toward the south and is noted by a brown sign.  The trail goes through transitional areas of high-desert scrub, gamble oak, and some pine.  These pines were mistaken for spruce—hence the trail's namesake. 

Shortly into the trail, you'll come to a dry creekbed.  Lined with grey-blue rocks, and towering cottonwoods, this is a great spot to stop and enjoy the scenery.  Look carefully upstream for a granite formation with a perfect cross in it. 

As you leave the creekbed watch for a few cairns, as the trail can be hard to follow.  From here it's a steady ascent into the Sierra Prieta mountains.  I would suggest pants, as there is some bushwhacking, although mercifully it's not long until you're on well-blazed trail again. 

My hope for this hike was to be among ponderosa forest.  As the summit comes into view, deep green veins in the rock indicate pines ahead.  Trail 264 merges with a well-signed old Jeep road.  Follow the road into the forest.  Beyond this, I'm not certain how much further the trail goes.  We were reaching out mandated turnaround time.  We walked through the forest for a bit, and it eventually gave way to clearing again.  Admittedly, this hike seemed a bit disappointing.

However, as we descended along 264, the late-afternoon light brought out more granite formations and old pine trees.  Skull Valley was in clear view.  The bushwhacking didn't seem as bad.  Somehow I managed to find more zen and enjoyment on the downslope side of this trail.  But the workout climbing up was worth it too.  Someday I might go back and try the other end of 264 and see if it puts me into more ponderosa forest.

As an epilogue to this post:  If you want to hydrate and add in some calories, I might  suggest checking out Barnstar Brewing in this area.  Beer tasting at this cool, family-run brewery might have been the highlight of my day.

Ponderosa forest ahead!

Browns Peak & Four Peaks

Weather:  82º, dry, sunny, windy

About this Hike:  Since joining Arizona Hiker's Facebook group I've seen more pictures of hiking to Brown's Peak in the iconic Four Peaks.  This hike is accessed via the Lone Pine Trailhead which is over miles of dirty, dusty Forest Service road.

My research indicated that above 7,000 feet Four Peaks turns into a sky island with cooler temps, pine trees, and phenomenal views of Roosevelt Lake just on the other side of the Matazal range.  I was sold.

A few years back a co-worker offered to let me borrow his Xterra so I could hike in Four Peaks Wilderness.  While I was humbled at his generous offer, I'm not one to take on such liability.  Fast forward to 2018 and I have an Xterra of my own...

Research indicated that Forest Road 143 to Lone Pine Trailhead may be a challenge for the Xterra, but my gut instinct said it wouldn't be too bad.  Let me preface by saying the Xterra survived unscathed.  FR 143 has it nerve racking moments.  The worst comes when you're about 3 miles from Lone Pine Trailhead the road turns very rocky.  Coming down from elevation is no picnic either, as there are no guard rails to protect from some steep drops.  Other than that, slow and steady is the key to navigating this packed, but sometimes rutted, dirt road safely.

Being the over-cautious driver that I am, I frequently pulled aside to let Jeeps, ATVs, and the like pass by.  Most obliged and passed with a wave (all five fingers extended).  People generally are friendly in nature I find....

An intense journey of two hours carried us 18 miles to the Lone Pine Trailhead.  For an additional 40 miles, you can bypass Four Peaks Road, continue north on AZ-87, and then head south on AZ-188 to El Oso Road.  El Oso is unpaved, but reports say it's in much better condition and is only 11 miles to the trailhead.  The fuchsia Mitsubishi Mirage parked at the trailhead was likely testament to this.  I venture to say that even with 40 extra miles on the odo, you'd probably do this trek in similar, or even better, time.

The hike along Lone Pine took us through high-desert scrub including manzanita, gamble oak, and ponderosa pine.  The vistas overlooking Roosevelt Lake were all that they promised to be.  We did see some interesting wildlife including a scrawny doe mule deer.  Not only was she not bothered by our presence, but she was stripping the foliage like there's no tomorrow—which may have been the case as she looked sickly.

Scree Chute on the left

When you approach the final stretch to the summit of Browns Peak the trail turns very steep and very rocky.  The final incline is infamously called 'the scree chute.'  An acute fear of heights has plauged me since I was a child.  The wind at this elevation was relentless.  These factors combined, I made the difficult—but necessary—call that I would not be going up the scree chute. 

From the photos I've seen, I didn't miss much by not officially touching the top of Browns Peak.  The vistas from near the top are already breathtaking.  Canyon, Apache, and Saguaro lakes come into view.  Superstition Mountain seems but a short jump away from atop Four Peaks.  And while the air quality was thick as soup yesterday, Camelback Mountain way down in The Valley could be seen poking through the mire.

Additionally, the Four Peaks appear to have little surface on their summit.  That would've done wonders for my fear of heights.  And that's another interesting point—as impressive as Four Peaks are from The Valley floor, up close they're surprisingly small.

I'm glad to check Browns Peak off my bucket list.  I'm not sure I'm in a rush to return to Four Peaks.  The drive is long and tiresome for relatively little hiking that you get to do.  If one day I do return it may very well be via El Oso Road.  I would like to explore the Amethyst Mine / Mother Lode trail one day.

Look close. From near the top of Browns you can see the lower Salt River lakes

One of many Roosevelt Lake vistas

Epilogue:  On the drive down we encountered the biggest diamondback I've ever seen.  He/she was sunning in the middle of the road.  I hate snakes, but resisted my urge to use said diamondback as a speed bump and in fact was glad to observe this creature from the safety of my vehicle.

Bear Mountain Summit & Long Canyon via Deadman's Pass

Weather:  67º, cloudy, very windy

About this Hike:  Back in January of 2017 I climbed Bear Mountain for the first time.  It was a fun, steep, and challenging hike then, and it still is to this day. 

The waterfall near the beginning of Bear Mountain was dry and the San Francisco Peaks were barren of snow as well––testament to this year of drought.

Besides the challenge, I enjoy the sweeping vistas and views into the surrounding Secret Mountain Wilderness-area canyons.  There are also spectacular views all the way south to Bell Rock and north toward the San Francisco Peaks. 

I also believe I saw the Robbers Den cave trailhead.  This was on my list of spots to explore when I have my Xterra in Sedona (due to the dirt road), but I've heard it's a heavily trafficked tourist trap.  The view from above sufficed.

After completing Bear, I wanted to do something more in the Dry Creek area and opted for Long Canyon via Deadman's Pass.  The trail is accessed at Boynton Canyon Trailhead.  I should also mention that these popular, crowded parking areas do require a Red Rocks Pass and kiosks are available at most parking lots. 

Long Canyon was an especially awesome hike as it was unexplored territory for me.  Once you're into the actual canyon it follows a dry creekbed.  The foliage gets thicker and you're in shaded forest largely comprised of juniper, AZ Cypress, and some pines.  Dramatic red and buff-colored cliff walls surround.  You have to just simply pause and take in all the unique lines, spires, temples, and shapes that time and erosion have carved into the sandstone. 

I explored Long Canyon for about 1.5 miles and then returned the way I came.  It's far too long (no pun intended!) of a trail for one day, especially after an intense climb up Bear Mountain.  While the temps were great today and the cloud cover kept the scorching sun off, the wind was a force to contend with.  By the end of my hike the gusts were whipping up dust devils everywhere, and I was glad to be finished. 

Secret Mountain and the Dry Creek Basin intrigue me every time I visit Sedona and leave me with future hiking plans in this area.  There are so many canyons to be explored here.

Canyon view from atop Bear Mountain

Like puzzle pieces....

Sweeping Long Canyon vista

Vultee Arch, Sterling Canyon, Secret Canyon

Weather:  67º, sunny, breezy

About this Hike:  Back in October of 2016 I attempted Vultee Arch via the Sterling Pass trailhead but failed to reach the red sandstone bridge.  Sterling Pass is accessible from 89A just heading north out of downtown Sedona.  The trailhead is not easy to find as it originates directly off this narrow, busy mountain pass.  There is a wide soft shoulder for parking and a bigger parking area just south of the Manzanita Campground.  The latter option––which I opted for––requires some careful walking on the narrow shoulders of 89A. 

Sterling Pass goes up and over the mountain.  It's a steep ascent and a equally steep descent.  It was during this switch-backy descent that I chickened out in 2016.  After consulting with some fellow hikers, I felt confident that I had been on the correct path and this year I was going to complete this hike.  The temperatures were a lot better than in October.  The underbrush wasn't as thick. 

I made it down Sterling Pass and lo and behold, there was the Vultee Arch sign.  Be careful here.  I misinterpreted the sign as pointing me down Sterling Canyon trail further.  In fact, there is a side trail up to the arch.  I continued (mistakenly) down Sterling Canyon and ran into an older gentleman.  I could tell he was frustrated when he asked me where the arch is.  I said I believed it was down the trail further and he told me it was not and that if I wanted to see I should follow him.  Put off by his attitude I didn't respond but instead consulted GPS.  While a cell signal is non-existent out here, GPS still works, and these trails are mapped on Google Maps.  Indeed, GPS revealed a side trail.  I returned to the signed junction.

Getting up to the arch is no easy task.  A lot of steep scrambling is involved.  I've seen photos of people in the middle of the arch, but this is not Devil's Bridge.  Vultee is suspended over a steep wash that drains into Sterling Canyon.  You have to walk along a very narrow rock shelf in order to get onto the equally narrow arch/bridge.  I was satisfied getting close to the arch and snapping plenty of photos.  I ran into the older gentleman on the way down and wished him well as he too had found the correct trail now.

The arch completed, Sterling Canyon continued intriguing me.  The arch isn't more than a two-and-a-half-mile hike from Sterling Pass, and it was still early in the day.  I continued on.  Sterling Canyon is ensconced by magnificent Sedona red rock cliffs.  The canyon floor has a diversity of pines, scrub maple, gamble oak, and Arizona Cypress.  Blue-gray and red rock-lined arroyos cross the trail. 

Caught up in all this beauty, I ended up at the Vultee Arch Trailhead. This is only accessible via an old forest road.  Further intrigued, I followed the forest road a ways down to Secret Canyon Trailhead.  The name of this place has always enchanted me.  Today I only hiked a brief way on Secret Canyon, so I can't give it a fair review. 

I will say that I was evaluating the forest road as I walked along.  My previous research indicated this road may be so rutted and bad that even my Xterra may not be suited for it.  While I realize I didn't see all the road, the portion I did see makes me think that with careful driving my Xterra could handle this.  I am already planning a Secret Canyon return trip when I cover the entire five miles into the canyon.  On the way back along the forest road I ran into the older gentleman again, this time driving out in his Jeep.

This made for a long day of hiking––far longer than I anticipated for.  Thankfully the weather was perfect and I was well-equipped with food and water.  Looking forward to exploring this area more in the future.

Soilders Pass Arch/Cave

Weather:  67º, overcast, breezy

About this Hike:  Thanks to joining the Arizona Hiking Facebook group I discovered the Soilders Arch and cave along the Soilders Pass trail in Sedona.  As I read up on the hike, I realized it's not a very long or difficult hike. Good thing, because I was on time constraints today. I had strict orders to be back at my parent's hotel for a timeshare presentation this afternoon...some non-sense about me attending would get an additional free gift.  I'd much rather have been hiking.

I've traversed Soilders Pass trail several times, visiting the obligatory sinkhole and the Seven Sacred Pools of Sedona.  Each time parking at the tiny Soilders Pass trailhead has been very difficult.  On-street parking in the tony neighborhood that surrounds the trailhead is forbidden, as numerous signs point out. 

Angry and frustrated, I worked my way over to the Jordan Road trailhead.  This ended up being a blessing in disguise.  About one mile over dirt road is required, but it's in very good shape and passable with a passenger car.  Just exercise care on the smooth, flat rock portion that mimics pavement––toward the end are some nasty ruts. 

Jordan Road is a much bigger parking area than Soilders Pass.  An additional 20 - 30 minutes of hiking through relatively level, Arizona Cypress-dotted Sedona landscape is all that is required to reach Soilders Pass.  If you want some elevation gain, a shorter, steeper alternate trail deviates from Jordan and goes over Cibola Pass.

So on to the arches... If you use HikeArizona.com, be warned––it says the turn off for the arch/cave is 1/8 of a mile from the Seven Pools.  In reality it's at least a mile from there.  HikeArizona.com does get it right regarding the wilderness boundary sign.  It's small and on a tree, but it marks the well-defined fork in the trail.  At this point bear right and begin the steep ascent to the arch. 

I covered the majority of the ~1/4 mile climb to the arch in five minutes.  I have my Piestewa and Camelback climbs to thank for that, I suppose.  Toward the end it gets a bit treacherous and more care is required. 

Rock pile I wasn't climbing...

At the actual cave you have to step on a rickety pile of rocks and then hoist yourself up.  There are OK hand/foot holds cut into the rock, but standing on that quaking rock pile just didn't work for me.  Much as I wanted to go into the cave, I only poked my head in.  There is a tin box where you can sign the visitor log, and I actually saw another hiker doing just that.  While he admonished me to go into the cave because, "It's not that bad," I couldn't do it.  That rock pile took me back to the scene from Home Alone 2 when the burglars attempted to build a ladder of sorts out of household junk...
 
Regardless, the area around the cave is magnificent.  The centuries-old sandstone under the arches is laced with huge fissures.  Sunlight streams thru in places.  Gigantic boulders are caught in the fissures, dangling precariously.  Under the arches the sandstone has become so brittle as to peel like old wallpaper.

I've explored a lot in this area in recent years.  Discovering Jordan Trailhead was a silver lining in a frustrating situation early on.  I look forward to continued exploration along Soilders Pass, Jordan Trail, and Brins Mesa.

One of the smaller cave arches

Striated sandstone