Hellroaring Creek

Weather:  88º, sun and clouds

About this Hike:  After Monument, I headed to the north end of Yellowstone. Hellroaring was one of the original hikes on my itinerary. I noted this one last fall during a family trip to Yellowstone where we drove through Lamar Valley.

This hike ended in a hell-roarin' disappointment. One mile down a steep embankment, the trail reaches the Yellowstone River. A sturdy steel suspension bridge traverses the chasm. The railings are high, but they are see-thru metal mesh. It's as safe a crossing as you'll ever find. But I couldn't do it. I have severe fear of heights, and seeing down on both sides triggered a panic attack when I attempted the crossing. Sadly, my fear of heights is a hinderance to the outdoor activities I love so much... 

I intended to go one more mile to see the namesake Hellroaring Creek, but it never happened. The hike back up from the bridge was very hot and unpleasant. This wasn't one of my favorites in Yellowstone. 

Monument Geyser

Weather:  86º, sun 

About this Hike:  Monument Geyser Trailhead caught my eye while driving into the park yesterday. After my first day in Yellowstone I did some research. Monument would be my inaugural Day 2 hike. 

The hike initially parallels the Gibbon River then goes through thick lodgepole pine forest. While elevation gain is less than 1,000 feet, it comes at you fast. The climb up to the geyser basin is steep and was challenging in the high-altitude summer heat.

The reward at the end of this trail consists of a chalky geyser basin and some steaming thermal features. There's a small drainage channel from a hot spring, and the water was still sizzling. I carefully used the rocks placed over it to step accross.

Based on the dry drainage channels, I would say Monument Geyser does erupt, but I am unsure of when and how often. It was quiet when I visited. 

Ice Lake and Little Gibbon Falls

 Weather:  86º, sun 

About this Hike:  Ice Lake to Little Gibbon Falls is a loop hike. It goes back into thick lodgepole pine forest and then the namesake lake comes into view. Views are seldom very sweeping, as the lake is surrounded by thick forest. 

It was on this hike that I first began to feel very vulnerable to bears and other potentially hostile wildlife. It didn't help that shortly after starting I dropped my bear spray somewhere on the trail. Thankfully I was able to backtrack and find it. Besides being risky to not carry bear spray in Yellowstone, this one was a rental, so not returning would have cost. 

Having made it around the lake, I did two stream crossings and then reached Little Gibbon Falls. The falls were pretty, and it was in this area that I had my first encounter with another hiking group. I had been completely alone up until then.

After the falls the trail ends at the main road. I didn't realize when I planned this that a little bit of a road hike was necessary to close the loop. Regardless this was a good first 'back country' hike in Yellowstone.

Mt. Washburn via Dunraven

Weather:  77º, sun 

About this Hike:   This was my first hike in Yellowstone National Park. The plan was to climb Mt. Washburn to the fire lookout on top. 

The hike was along an old road which appeared to be decommissioned. I wondered how the park rangers  get up to the top to staff the tower. It turns out a newer road comes up the back side of the mountain. People were also hiking up the active service road.

The trail I took wound through wildflower-filled meadows and mountainous forest. Eventually it gave way to more tundra-like landscape. 

The fire lookout at the top was more substantive than just a simple cabin supported by four tall legs. This tower is set in concrete with multiple levels. The ground floor contained a visitor center with signs to read, a telescope, and restrooms. There are communications antenna and monitoring devices all over the tower. I had full cell service at the top. 

Gneiss Creek

Weather:  77º, sun 

About this Hike:  This hike kicked off the next four days in Yellowstone National Park. Originally I wanted to do either Fawn Pass or Bighorn Pass from trailheads on US 191 north of West Yellowstone. 

Being as I arrived in West Yellowstone late this afternoon, Gneiss Creek was a similar, but closer alternative. Just like the original two trails, Gneiss eventually traverses across the Yellowstone park boundary. I was also surprised at how late the sun sets here. It was settled; Gneiss would be an after-dinner kickoff hike.

The wildflowers in the meadows along Gneiss were stunning. I followed the trail down to the first creek crossing. I was getting uneasy, as it was getting near dusk and that's when bear and other wildlife often become active. 

I never saw any wildlife, but the mosquitos were awful down by the creek. I didn't stay long.

Returning to the trailhead, I made up my mind that I was no longer interested in Bighorn or Fawn Passes. These trails looked long, rugged, and with potential to encounter hostile wildlife. I decided I wanted to maximize my time in the national park starting tomorrow.  

Widforss Post-Sublime

Weather:  80º, sun 

About this Hike:  On my previous two North Rim trips I attempted Widforss Trail. From being short on time to a small brush fire, something always upended the hike. Until today, completing this just-over nine mile hike has evaded me. 

After the rattling drive from Point Sublime, I figured a hike was a good way to decompress. It's also convenient that the awful road known as Point Sublime Trail ends at the Widforss Trailhead. 

Widforss is one of the North Rim's more popular and developed trails. It takes you through thick forest while opening up occasionally for viewpoints into the Grand Canyon. 

The trail's end is at Widforss Point, denoted by a sign. This is another spectacular canyon overlook with views in all directions. While the Colorado River is not visible at Widforss (at least I couldn't find it), I thought this viewpoint to be an acceptable consolation prize if one were to not willing to attempt getting to Point Sublime. While observing through my binoculars, I saw some buildings on the opposite rim. I'm guessing this is the South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park. 

The Point Sublime drive and then the Widforss hike was a lot to cram into one day. But the North Rim is a long drive from my home in central Arizona, and so I wanted to make the most of my short time there. I am glad to finally check Widforss off my hiking bucket list. 

Point Sublime

Weather:  75º, sun 

About this Drive:  Normally this blog is about hikes. However, the scenic drive out to Point Sublime at the Grand Canyon North Rim has been on my bucket list.

I've done a lot of research on this drive. In the Grand Canyon National Park, a sign at the beginning of Point Sublime road offers a dire warning with words such as: unmaintained, hazardous, self-rescue, and blown down trees. 

I also learned there is another route to Point Sublime using forest roads on the Kaibab National Forest. This alternate route is a little longer, but said to be more scenic and better maintained. There's also supposed to be an historic fire lookout tower and cabin along the way. 

I opted to camp at DeMotte Campground which is right next door to where my journey would begin on FR-22. I had built a detailed map because this drive involves a lot of turns. Most roads on Kaibab Forest are pretty well signed. 

Starting early in the morning, the initial road was graded gravel and easy driving. I found a small electrical box (there's some utility infrastructure out there) and stopped to air down on the driveway to it. I knew the road was likely to deteriorate the further in I got. 

The road did narrow and got a little rougher, but nothing too unmanageable. Sawed-up trees on the roadside reminded me of the warning about trees falling. I did have a chainsaw and a handsaw in my off-road recovery kit, but I hoped not to need to use either of them. In fact I never did, testament to the wisdom of doing this drive pre-monsoon.

I never found the fire lookout or cabin. I assumed there would be a sign or some kind of marker.  Their mapped locations aren't the easiest to figure out either. 

Eventually I reached the gate marking the national park boundary. Beyond that was a junction. Here I made a mistake and went the wrong way. I probably was four miles down Swamp Ridge Road before I realized my error. I was not happy.

Agitated by the lost time, I turned around. Now going the correct way, I was on course to join Point Sublime Trail. At this point the road began to deteriorate significantly. The road became more rutted. While I had to back up and reevaluate my line once, I managed to navigate the ruts. 

The road was a little nerve wracking, but really not too bad. I arrived at the Point Sublime Campground. There were two unoccupied campsites each with a picnic table. Surprisingly there was also a restroom complete with solar-powered composting toilet. Inside, the restroom was clean and fully stocked. I was glad because the drive had wracked my nerves enough...well never mind. I was both grateful for and surprised by the fact there's a restroom in such a remote location. It makes me wonder, how was equipment brought out there to dig the pit and construct that restroom, and who maintains it?

Having parked at the campground, I hoofed it to the actual Point Sublime overlook. With nearly 360-degree canyon views, it is quite breathtaking. The Colorado River is even visible far below. 

After lunch and plenty of photos, I departed Point Sublime. Ominous as the park road sounded, I've read reviews of people doing the drive in an old VW camper van and a Ford Escape. How bad could it be? Surely my 4x4 Tacoma could handle this...

My 4x4 Tacoma performed just like it was engineered to. That said, it handled the road well. Its driver (yours truly) on the other hand did not handle it so well. The road has a lot of scary ruts and rocky sections. The hills are always the worst with ruts and other obstacles. In the final few miles the road opens up into scenic meadows, yet even these have ruts and sandy sections. 

The ruts really got to me because of the angles the truck would get on. It feels like I'm about to tip. I also know Tacomas can get on some gnarly angles, as Toyota loves to demonstrate at their overland events. I was probably over-reacting a bit. I don't off-road for the fun of it like many people do. I off-road for the beautiful destinations one can reach only by driving off the paved path.

Regardless, I survived Point Sublime Trail. The last couple miles aren't so bad as this segment seems to get a little maintenance. 

After driving both approaches to Point Sublime I can hands-down vouch for the Kaibab Forest route being the better choice. Regardless, drivers will have to navigate at least a few miles of the awful, rutted Point Sublime Trail. 

Another reason I picked this route? It ends at the Widforss Trailhead in the national park...