See Canyon and Waterfalls - Fall 2026

Weather:  55º, sun and clouds

About this Hike:  The annual fall See Canyon hike was supposed to happen yesterday. However, the weather changed to high t-storm chances and so we decided to try again on Sunday.

This ended up being a wise decision. Yesterday was cold and stormy while today was cool and sunny. 

Arizona Rim Country has experienced one of the wettest falls ever. So while See Canyon is an annual tradition, I've never seen it quite like it was today. Dry creek beds where I speculated there might be an epic waterfall were flowing strong today, confirming my speculation. 

The fall color was at peak in the mid to upper stretches of the canyon, although much of it seemed a bit muted and more pale compared to past years. In the lower reaches of the canyon much of the maples were still green. 

We opted to hike top-down, parking on the Mogollon Rim and doing the downhill portion first. Besides the battle for parking at the main trailhead, all reports indicated that Christopher Creek would be a raging, silty swift crossing. By hiking top-down we got to enjoy the best of the canyon before having to contend with a serious water crossing. 

When we reached the first crossing just before the junction with See Spring Trail, this was confirmed. Christopher Creek was a brownish-pink silty mess. A log and some rocks looked like a viable footpath across, but my hiking partner didn't want to chance it. Up ahead there would be more high water crossings to navigate, so it was just as well to make this our turnaround point. 

Today ended up being a beautiful fall day. I thoroughly enjoyed getting to see all the waterfalls that in a normal year would be dry, and getting to see them with the fall color was just an added bonus. 

With fall color, old growth pines, and flowing streams, See Canyon is one annual hike that never gets old. 

Bear Jaw to Inner Basin

Weather:  51º, cloudy, occasional wind

About this Hike:  Bear Jaw Abineau has become one of my favorites—if not my favorite—hiking loop in the greater Flagstaff area. When I last hiked the loop back in early August, I was intrigued by a sign indicating Inner Basin access. 

The Inner Basin and Lockett Meadow are something of a bucket list hike. I've heard the basin is the best spot for aspen fall color around Flagstaff. I've also heard on fall weekends it is an absolute free-for-all on a scary dirt road that accesses the basin. 

For the past couple years that main road (FR-552) has been closed for repairs. While the road is closed, the basin remains open, although it requires a lengthy hike to access it. My study of maps indicated that hiking up Bear Jaw Trail and joining Waterline Road would be a viable alternative access route to the basin. 

This ended up being a fantastic hike. Near the Bear Jaw Abineau parking area and in the lower elevations, the aspens still clung to their leaves. A few trees were surprisingly still green. This past week Arizona has seen a large tropical event bringing high wind and heavy rain. Despite unfavorable conditions for fall color, my expectation was that some stands of aspen would continue clinging to their colorful foliage. My instinct was correct. 

When Bear Jaw topped out at Waterline Road, I turned left toward the Inner Basin. The first mile or so was an unremarkable walk along a decommissioned road. Views toward the Grand Canyon barely peeked through the dense foliage. A lot of deadfall blocked the path, although it was never difficult to navigate around. 

Waterline Road slowly descends toward the basin. At a large rock slide area, the views opened up. A cold wind also picked up in this area, while the previously barren aspens began to show some color again. Lockett Meadow Campground was clearly visible below. Cinder cones and red mountains dotted the distant landscape, while the Grand Canyon was visible to the north. With controlled burns and smoke along US-180 and thick clouds overhead, I didn't expect Grand Canyon to be visible today. This breathtaking viewpoint was punctuated by some red aspen foliage. I always like seeing the rare red and orange aspens instead of the dominant yellow color. 

Waterline Road joined the Inner Basin. I veered onto the trail toward Lockett Meadow Campground. This took me through a wonderland of dense aspens, much of which still held onto their yellow leaves. The forest floor was a carpet of yellow aspen leaves and grasses. When I joined the trail,  the sign indicated 1.7 miles to the campground. Since this was to be an out-and-back hike, I was leery of time and if I wanted to try and reach the campground. I hiked for about 30 minutes, taking in the majesty of the Inner Basin. The forest began to change with more meadows, grasses, and denser spruces / firs mixing in. The map indicated I hadn't made as much progress as I would have liked toward the campground. At 1pm I decided to turn back, placated by the fact I could observe the campground at the rock slide viewpoint higher up the mountain. 

As I hiked out, I noted snow on the higher peaks. With thick, gray clouds and a chilly wind, it felt wintry, despite being a moody fall afternoon. 

With road closures, fewer crowds, and a little creative detouring, 2026 ended up being a great year to experience all that fall has to offer at Inner Basin. 

Portal Area: Nature Trail, Cathedral Vista, and Silver Peak

Weather:  79º, sun, hot

About this Hike:  After departing Chiricahua, we headed toward Arizona's Yosemite—Portal. This could be a 24 mile drive over FR-42 Pinery Canyon Road. However, with the RV, we needed to stick to the pavement. Staying on terra-firma took us on a two hour drive, across the New Mexico state line, and then back into Arizona. 

I wanted to camp at one of the first three campgrounds along Cave Creek Road in Portal. I was nervous these would be filled up with weekend warriors and had made Plans B, C, D, etc. I was very wrong. The campgrounds were near empty. We got a great spot at Stewart Campground. 

I chose Portal Nature Trail and Silver Peak because these have hike-out access from the campground. The nature trail is a relatively flat stroll through high desert riparian woodlands. Many of the trees and shrubs are labeled by placards. There is a cool old stone structure labeled as the 'Explosives Shack.' A utility line parallels much of the nature trail, which is slightly anti-climatic. 

We arrived at Silver Peak Trail and began our ascent up. It was hot and exposed juniper and grassland to start. As we wrapped around toward the north and west the tall mountain peaks cast some welcome respite on the trail. An occasional riparian drainage offered some tree shade as well. 

My hope on Silver Peak was to take in some views of the stunning mountains and rock formations that make Portal the "Yosemite of Arizona." It did not disappoint. 

With elevation and mileage stats close to Flagstaff's Humphrey's Peak, I would have loved to summit Silver Peak. With a late start, summiting wasn't possible today. We made it to Viewpoint #3 on the All Trails map and then called it good. This was just short of the three mile mark, with another two miles (and over 1,000 feet elevation gain) to go before the summit. Perhaps somedays I'll come back...

We also explored the Cathedral Vista Viewpoint (early Sunday morning) where we met the YouTuber behind the BackroadTrails channel. He was gathering some footage for an upcoming video on Portal. Cathedral Vista Trail unofficially continues past the viewpoint. In fact, following the unofficial trail led us right back to our campsite. Like literally, it ends right there at the Stewart Campground at the site we had selected. 

The guy behind the YouTube channel shared that he would continuing up FR-42 and overnighting at Pinery Canyon Campground—a remote dispersed camping area along this scenic mountain pass. I'll admit I was a little jealous. And therein lies the problem with this initial visit to Portal:  From South Fork, to FR-42, to the entire recreation area (and all the trails branching therein), one needs a high clearance vehicle. Cave Creek Road quickly turns to dirt. The South Fork road has a sign warning against taking an RV on it. 

When I return to Portal, it will be my with my Tacoma. Camping in the RV is great. In fact, I haven't warmed up to tent camping despite sinking thousands into fancy roof top tents and other equipment. But to enjoy all that the Portal area has to offer, one needs to be able to leave the pavement. 

Silver Spur & Faraway Ranch

Weather:  75º, sun and clouds

About this Hike:  The Big Loop had been a long hike today. However, after dinner at camp, we decided on an evening stroll.

The Silver Spur Trail begins right in Bonita Creek Campground, meaning no need to move the RV. We followed the path through riparian meadows where more than a few pygmy-sized deer greeted us. 

We stopped at a historic cabin and then continued through the equally historic Faraway Ranch. Eventually we reached a parking lot near the park entrance. The trail continued from here as the Bonita Creek Trail. However, it was getting dark, so we opted to make the parking lot our turnaround point. 

Headlamps came out and we arrived back at camp just after dark. 

Silver Spur made for an enjoyable evening walk. 

Chiricahua Big Loop

Weather:  71º, clouds and wind, occasional sun

About this Hike:  The Big Loop is an All Trails route. It combines multiple trails and gives an excellent overview of the best Chiricahua has to offer.

We opted to park at Massai Point point, which is the end of the scenic drive. This hike may actually be easier parking at Echo Canyon as we had to use a short connector trail to get the loop started from Massai. 

Regardless, the trail took us through several canyons including Sarah Demming Canyon and Upper Rhyolite, both of which were lush with a flowing stream and tall pines. Big Loop also traverses Chiricahua's signature hoodoos, winds around teetering balanced rocks, and loops through Heart of the Rocks where various formations are given names denoted by signs. 

Like most [soon to be] national parks, Chiricahua has an Inspiration Point. This is an out-and-back side trail and we opted to skip it since it looked to offer views into a canyon we'd just climbed out of. 

Echo Canyon ended up being one of the best parts of this loop. The scary part is I almost skipped it. There is a junction and the sign says that both directions will take you back to Massai Point parking. If I had followed the Hailstone Trail it would've gotten me back to Massai, but I would've missed one of the best parts of Chiricahua. I am glad I opted to follow the Echo Canyon Trail.  In an area called 'The Grottos' you get to hike in between massive hoodoos and rock formations. In some parts it feels cave-like and there's a noticeable temperature drop.  In sunny clefts between the rocks, scraggly apache pine and other vegetation manage to grow skyward.

We topped out near the Echo Canyon parking lot, but had to use a short connector to get back to Massai. I would estimate this to be a nine mile hike and always along well-maintained trails. Maybe we just spent a lot of time stopping to observe the scenery, because it took about six hours to complete.

Chiricahua Natural Bridge

Weather:  70º, sun and clouds

About this Hike:  After about five hours of driving we arrived at Chiricahua National Monument. Bonita Creek Campground will be home for the next couple of nights as we explore what may soon be Arizona's next national park. 

Since it was late in the day, I opted for a 'medium-duty' hike at the Natural Bridge Trail. There is a small parking area off the main road, but we had it to ourselves. Good thing too, because I recently acquired a small RV from Cruise America. Its a pre-production prototype of their new 'ultra-compact' model, and after they finished testing it, I picked it up for a good price. National park infrastructure is typically accommodating for those who use small RVs and vans as their primary exploration vehicle. 

The natural bridge hike starts in a riparian zone, climbs to high desert savanna, and then drops into another riparian area complete with apache pines, wildflower meadows, trickling streams, and plenty of mosquitos. 

The water and mosquitos are thanks to all the monsoon activity Arizona has enjoyed this summer. It also means that while these trails are well-maintained, there is some tall grass encroachment. Post-hike I did a thorough tick check even though I was wearing long pants. 

After just over two miles of hiking, the namesake natural bridge came into view. You can't get really close to it. A sign denotes the end of the trail at a viewpoint. I'd suggest binoculars and/or a zoom lens. 

This was a good inaugural hike to kick off our Chiricahua exploration. 

Babe Haught to Knoll Lake

Weather:  77º, sun and clouds

About this Hike:  One year ago today I first explored Babe Haught Trail to Knoll Lake. Looking for something to do today, and remembering this to be an enjoyable hike, I opted to try it again. 

The parking lot was the fullest I've ever seen it at the Hatchery Trailhead. This may be spurred by the closure of Horton Creek parking lot for on-going construction. 

While I saw a few other hikers today, I wouldn't call the trail crowded by any means. But then, with multiple spurs of Highline Trail branching from the same parking area, surely not all hikers were on Babe Haught. 

For some reason I enjoyed this hike a lot more last year. It wasn't bad by any means this year, yet it just felt different. Maybe it was the fact that it was still uncomfortably hot today. Maybe all the orange ponderosa pines were getting to me too...

I can't tell if the ponderosas are dying or experiencing intense seasonal needle drop. Most of them still have plenty of green, punctuated by some clumps of orange. Photos taken and analyzed by AI tell me its just seasonal needle drop. But then with the beetle outbreak in recent years, I never know what to believe. 

Knoll Lake is still low when you compare the bathtub ring to its current state of fill. However, with a good monsoon this summer, it is higher than a year ago. In fact, there wasn't much lake bottom to walk along. Even if it was just a few inches of murky water, the lake level is definitely higher. Hopefully El Nino brings us some solid snowpack this winter and fills up the rim lakes. 

Sand Rock Canyon / Fossil Creek Canyon Rim

Weather:  81º, sunny, muggy, hot

About this Hike:  I discovered this hike on All Trails. It looked to follow old dirt two-track roads through the savanna and to an overlook above the Fossil Creek Wilderness area. The hike begins at FR-9D which parallels a high tension powerline. There is a distinct change here—the ponderosa pines of the Mogollon Rim end and the grasslands begin. High desert savanna spotted with junipers and occasional pinion pines  was the scenery for the entire hike, save for a small creek that had ponderosas growing along it. At least the grasses were relatively green. Muddy spots along the trail and even some standing puddles attest to the amount of rain this area has gotten in 2026's active monsoon.

The trail eventually diverges away from FR-9D and onto FR-9K at a large cattle tank. The tank was full and the water looked clean (by cattle tank standards). I was glad to move away from the overhead powerlines. I experienced a strange phenomenon while underneath them. My hand slipped off the rubber grip of my aluminum hiking pole. Upon contacting the metal, I experienced a small electric shock in my right hand. While not serious, it was more than a little static zap, enough so that I instinctively threw my hiking pole. There was no obvious injury to my hand, and so I theorized the powerlines had something to do with it. Some internet research when I got home confirmed my theory. 

This hike was difficult to follow. I wasted considerable time backtracking and trying to find the All Trails  GPS track. In the tall grass it was to no avail. The best way to do this is simply to follow the defined two-track. Eventually the two track rejoined the All Trails GPS track. The road forked again, and I went left, once again diverging the GPS track. This proved to be a good choice. This route led to a faint, but navigable, footpath and right to the edge of the canyon. 

I took some time to appreciate the views into Fossil Creek Wilderness. As this canyon runs toward the Verde Valley, Sedona-esque red sandstone is prominent in the canyon walls. I was saddened to see a lot of orange pine trees on the upper ridges of the canyon. This is testament to a pine beetle outbreak that I hope is nearing its end. The inner canyon looked lush and beautiful, although the creek was not visible. 

I hiked back to the fork and tried to follow the All Trails GPS track. It appeared to go on close to another mile, ending on a narrow peninsula. This proved to be to no avail. The two-track ran out. While a narrow peninsula on the map, when you're standing on it, it is a sea of grass and junipers. It would've been easy to get lost, and I was not plowing through all that grass. I found one viewpoint to the side, and it didn't seem to offer anything that the first good viewpoint offered. I could see the end of the peninsula from here, but I wasn't willing to go on any further. 

I hiked out the way I came in. Without backtracking and getting confused, it only took a little over an hour to get back my parking spot on FR-677 just off of AZ-260. 

This was a hot, unpleasant hike. The viewpoint was enjoyable, but honestly, I'd rather be hiking down in Fossil Creek Canyon (an area I've yet to explore). 

Rim Run and Box Canyon

Weather:  78º, cloudy, muggy

About this Hike:  My original plan was to explore the network of trails that originate at the Canyon Point Campground near Forest Lakes. However, I was stopped at the guard shack. There is a $10 day-use fee. I opted to continue down 260 turning at Merzville Rd. 

From Merzville Road I could access something called Rim Run Trail, which looked to be a viable alternate. In fact this ended up being a great choice.

I drove in to where Merzville junctions with Hillcrest Road and parked . The road was getting a little sketchy and there were plenty of good clearings to park in. I imagine this would make for some good dispersed camping, especially if one is looking to avoid the fees at Canyon Point. 

My hike entailed following Merzville Road to where it ends at a vast overlook on the edge of the Mogollon Rim. Parking where I did was a good call. The road only degraded more, and there was a lot of standing water and smelly mud. I often paralleled the road, hiking on the thick bed of pine needles that make up the forest floor. The forest back here is thick, healthy ponderosa. It was very peaceful and enjoyable to hike through.

Near the end, the road becomes more like rock steps. Ending at the rim's edge, I could see the nearby peninsula viewpoint that is accessed from the campground. This was further confirmation that I missed out on nothing (and saved $10) by doing the hike via Merzville Road. I could also see a fish hatchery and some buildings in the lush, green valley below. 

There is an American flag planted at the edge of the rim viewpoint. Judging from its lack of tatters and relatively vibrant color, I would say this is a new addition. 

On the hike out I followed a side trail down a decommissioned road to what looked like another viewpoint. It did lead to a viewpoint, but it was rocky, brushy, and the views weren't great. 

Being that it was early afternoon, I debated whether I wanted to link up with the network of trails that branch from the campground, or go do something else. The campground trails have silly names like 'Dare Me' and 'Wedding Day.' This makes me think they're geared more toward mountain bikers. The whole network is close to 260, meaning constant road noise. 

I figured if I wanted the above unpleasantries, I might go try something else. I started heading back toward Payson, stopping at the Box Canyon Trail just off 260. While the map indicated walking directly parallel to the busy highway, I opted to follow a utility line that also paralleled the road. This kept me a little further out of traffic and ultimately led to a side trail. This side trail had cairns and looked to descend into the box canyon. Unfortunately, it was extremely steep and eventually had a sheer drop off. I took a photo of two pretty waterfalls deep in the canyon and then turned back. 

Finding the correct trail, I paralleled 260 and then joined the official Box Canyon Trail. It was much easier to descend, and soon I was at the waters of Christopher Creek, surrounded by magnificent purple-red cliffs. 

I hiked up to a viewpoint and got some photos of a waterfall spilling into a pool below. I also had noticed a grassy meadow when I first reached the water's edge. I went through an open horse gate and followed a path through the meadow. The creek changed dramatically, becoming a marshy remnant. The canyon walls vanished and deciduous trees surrounded me. I arrived at an equestrian enclosure with a large building. Turns out I had trespassed onto a private retreat / camp. Upon arriving back at the water, I saw the bleached, bullet-hole filled 'No Trespassing' sign. 

While not overly spectacular hikes, I was glad to get out and enjoy some simple pleasures here in Rim Country this Labor Day. 

Continuing Passage 30 - Up on Anderson Mesa

Weather:  78º, clouds and sun

About this Hike:  Last Saturday's hike on the Mormon Lake side of Arizona Trail (AZT) Passage 30 was so enjoyable that we opted to continue it. Picking up at Horse Lake Trailhead, we were now on the other side of Lake Mary Road. Judging from the map, I expected some views of Lake Mary and hoped for dense ponderosa pine forest.

There ended up being a stark difference between this section of Passage 30 compared to what we hiked on last weekend. The dense ponderosa forest was gone. Atop Anderson Mesa is a lot of savannah grassland. Ponderosa pines are mixed in, but they are far less dense and are accompanied by more juniper and occasional pinon pine. Despite recent rains, many of the meadows looked absolutely parched and featured dried out grasses. Namesake Horse Lake was just a dry meadow. 

The AZT in this section follows old ATV roads. They are rutted and tore up in places, and of course you always have to be listening to the drone of an approaching ATV or side-by-side. Its not a great hiking surface and my feet and back get tired and sore when hiking along old roadways. There are also a lot of unauthorized roads, making careful route following important. The AZT has surprisingly few markers at some of these confusing junctions. 

While the trail lended to a few good views of Humphrey's and Mormon Mountain, the views were never spectacular. Maybe there would have been a viewpoint of Lake Mary if we continued another half mile or so. We opted to turn around about a half mile before the connector trail into Lakeview Campground.

It is always nice to be in the outdoors. However, today's hike was quite lackluster compared our hike just across the street a week ago, testament to the many microclimates that make up Arizona. 

AZT Passage 30 - Anderson Mesa

Weather:  78º, clouds, thunder, light rain

About this Hike:  Today's hike explored part of Passage 30 of the Arizona Trail. I admit I didn't have high expectations. I thought it would rocky savannah punctuated by some ponderosa pines and gamble oak. I was very wrong in all the right ways...

The hike started at a site I'm very familiar with—the trailhead parking lot just outside Dairy Springs Campground. We've used this parking lot numerous times to climb Mormon Mountain. After a hike to the back of the campground, we reached the trailhead and then the junction shortly afterward. Instead of the usual climb up, we turned right to follow the AZT. 

Initially it wasn't the most scenic. The ponderosas are suffering either seasonal needle drop or pine beetle damage; I can't be certain. All I know is there's a lot of orange in a forest that looks like its already been heavily cleared. A few blue spruces punctuate the landscape and provide a reminder that some healthy trees remain. As the hike wraps around the base of Mormon Mountain, the timber scenery doesn't get better. It looks like there's been a lot of pine beetle kill on the flanks of the mountain. 

Bad news out of the way, the forest does eventually improve. Healthy stands of ponderosa pine return, with a random spruce or fir in the conifer mix. The hike transitions between grassy meadows and denser stands of ponderosa. There are occasional viewpoints into the grasslands and meadows around the Mormon Lake Volcanic Field. 

Another interesting facet of Passage 30 is that it is a 'Rails-to-Trails' project of sorts. Much of the trail follows old railroad bed, and the USFS has placed a sign explaining this in more detail. Large walls of volcanic rock and decades old rotted railroad ties provide further evidence of a bygone train track. 

Our turnaround point was approximately six miles in at a wildflower filled meadow with view of the San Francisco Peaks. We were not far from the Pinegrove Campground, making for an easy waypoint should we decide to continue Passage 30 one day. 

The weather today was pleasant with thunder and light rain at the start of our hike. Once this blew past the sun came out briefly, but then clouds returned.  The light rain and clouds made for cooler, pleasant hiking conditions. 

Today's hike ended up being way better than I expected. I'm now planning a return hike in the near future to continue Passage 30 from the Horse Lake Trailhead. 

Great Basin Day Three - Lexington Arch & Lehman Creek

Weather:  80º, sunny

About this Hike:  Today would've been the day to re-do Wheeler Peak. The weather was perfect. I mulled it over in my mind, but decided I wanted to see more of Great Basin's back country. I opted to head south of the main park and down to the Lexington Arch.

A 10.5 mile dirt road drive takes you to the arch. While much of this falls under Bureau of Land  Management initially, the National Park Service has placed signage to make the drive in easier. The hiking trail eventually re-enters the park boundary. The dirt road is mostly hard pack, but it gets very narrow for the final few miles. It also has a lot of vegetation encroachment during these final miles. While the island of vegetation between the two-track gives one fear of a catalytic-converter ignited fire, the vegetation to the sides will most certainly pin stripe most vehicles. That all said, on a dry day like today, four-wheel drive is not necessary. 

Despite the lacking road conditions, this trail is very well maintained. Water crossings are bridged, while signage and markers help lead the way. The scenery is not great. A fire went thru this area some time ago. While the grasses and annoying vegetation have long recovered, silver toothpicks are reminders of forest lost long ago. 

The Lexington Arch was an awesome sight to behold and made up for the lackluster hike to it. There is a bench that looks up at the arch, but the trail continues past the bench. I read its well worth it to pass the bench, keep hiking, and end up underneath the arch. Judging from the topography at the front of the arch, I expected this was going to be a treacherous scramble up to the arch. In fact, the well-maintained trail traverses behind the arch and climbs it with a few switchbacks. It's much more accessible on the back side. I enjoyed cool breezes, a snack, and Great Basin views from under the arch. 

Following my backcountry adventure, I headed back into the main part of the park to explore Lehman Creek. I thought seriously about giving Wheeler another go, even with a 5.5 mile hike already under my belt. Some cloud development near the summit made me think otherwise (it never stormed today). I stuck to the plan and explored Lehman Creek Trail.

What intrigued me about this trail is the fact that it goes from Upper Lehman Campground all the way to Wheeler Peak Campground in just 3.6 miles. This is probably about a 10 mile drive up the winding mountain road to the top. 

This hike started in desert grassland and mulberry. It was hot, uphill, and exposed. Eventually it paralleled Lehman Creek. Close proximity to the creek meant more trees and more shade. That is, until the trail ascended, taking a hard turn away from the creek and traversing a meadow. Here, scenic views of Wheeler Peak came into view. 

The upper reaches of Lehman Creek Trail definitely contained the best viewpoints, forest, and shade. The trail ends in the Wheeler Peak Campground where I took a break on a bench and watched campers setting up camp for the evening. 

And speaking of camping...I think that may be one of the best ways to experience this park. Several of the campgrounds--and especially Wheeler Peak CG--offer hike-out access. One day I hope to return and complete the Wheeler Summit. I hope to do it from my campsite at Wheeler Peak Campground (and maybe in a camper van that I'll own one day). Until then, the past few days have been a wonderful opportunity to experience and learn about Great Basin.

Great Basin Day Two - Wheeler Peak Area

Weather:  55º, clouds, wind

About this Hike:  I woke up early this morning, excited to summit Wheeler Peak. I imagined a battle for parking spaces at the Summit Trailhead. I also knew that this hike is best accomplished early, before late morning thunderstorm energy starts building.

Well prepared, I was at Summit Trailhead by 7:00am. There were about three other cars in an otherwise empty lot. Wheeler Peak was not visible, shroud in gray clouds. With some sun starting peak thru over the basin valley, I thought the fog would soon burn off. After all, the forecast said high chance for thunderstorms today, so heating would be necessary in order to get those storms poppin'. 

The Wheeler Summit hike started out in beautiful aspen and conifer forest. Eventually, it went above timberline, surrounding me in a moonscape of jagged rocks. The fog hadn't lifted. In fact, it seemed heavier. And the wind was relentless. Other hikers warned me the wind was only going to get worse. 

With one mile and about 1,200 feet of elevation gain to go (meaning this was to be a vertical one mile), I made the tough call to turn back. It wasn't worth forcing it any further. The wind was treacherous and beginning to affect my balance. Even if I somehow made the summit, there would be no views to behold with the thick fog soup. 

It was now about 10:30am. What to do with the rest of this day? It was chilly and breezy, but much better conditions back at the trailhead. I moved the truck into the Bristlecone parking area and decided to do the six-mile loop hike that visits the bristlecone pine grove, passes two alpine lakes, and includes a spur to the glacier. 

While the lot was not full, this was a busy hike. The glacier trail gave me the best views of Wheeler Peak, only about 2,000 vertical feet above. In fact, for a brief time the fog lifted and I used my binoculars to try and see the summit. The fog quickly rolled back in, and a few rumbles of thunder were heard. It never ended up storming near the summit, although rain shafts were visible coming down on the distant basin valley. 

After looking at other's photos, I'm wondering if Wheeler Peak Summit is worth it? I'm sure it is, and I would love to sign the summit register and have the sense of accomplishing this. However, in terms of views, I'm not sure you'll see much more than is already visible at the myriad viewpoints and overlooks within Great Basin National Park. Honestly, the desert basin itself is not that becoming. 

I did enjoy the back half of my day. The six miles felt a lot longer. Maybe because I had expended quite a bit of energy on the failed summit attempt. Maybe because the spur to the glacier is a lot rockier and tougher than you'd expect. Regardless, I took my time and tried to read all the signage the NPS has placed in an effort to learn more about this unique place. 

I have one day left in Great Basin. I'm not so sure I'll re-attempt Wheeler, but we'll see what tomorrow brings.

Great Basin Day One - Timber Creek, Pole Canyon, & Osceola

Weather:  78º, sun, clouds, spotty showers

About this Hike:  Today starts my first of three days exploring Great Basin National Park in Nevada. Due to a cold front and subsequent thunderstorms in the area, I opted to keep today's hike in the lower elevations of the park. The cooler temps were a welcome relief, as I can't imagine doing these hikes with summer temps in the 90s. 

My first hike was South Timber Creek toward Johnson Lake. In fact, I reached a pass with a sign indicating 2.7 miles to Johnson Lake. Instead, I opted to close the loop early using Baker Meadows Trail. I did this because while 2.7 miles doesn't sound too far, the map indicated there was a lot of elevation to be gained and that it may go above timberline. With the threat of thunderstorms ever present, I decided not to venture too deep into the backcountry. I also assumed that Johnson Lake would be a puddle at best this time of year. 

After finishing the loop (and kicking myself a bit for not pushing on to Johnson Lake), I visited Pole Canyon Trail next. I enjoyed a relatively easy ascent thru riparian areas, bounded by stark gray canyon walls. Eventually I reached the upper reaches of this trail and more open meadows. The 360-degree views of mountains and the basin valley in the distance were impressive. This was early afternoon and the skies were starting to thunder. I turned around and hurried back to the Pole Canyon parking area, arriving back just before the storm blew in. It never amounted to much, and I spent some time exploring the Great Basin Visitor Center. 

With the threat of storms past, I decided on one more hike. It was going to be Lehman Creek Trail. Unfortunately my GPS had a different plan. After not notifying me of the turn, I was now on my way up the scenic parkway. This shelf road has limited turnarounds. My next chance to safely turnaround was at Osceola Ditch Trailhead, a trail I wanted to explore anyway. I decided to just hike Osceola instead since I was already at the trailhead. I hiked in a little over a mile to Mill Creek, traversing boulder fields and high desert terrain. The forest became much more lush around Mill Creek, which ended up being my turnaround point. The topography of the ditch, and much of the timber that supported this nineteenth-century mining aqueduct, are still in-tact. 

After Osceola, I was tired and it was dinner time. I'm glad to have explored the lower elevations of the park. Hopefully drier weather is in store the next couple days, because I want to spend more time up near Wheeler Peak. 

Buck Mountain Lookout

Weather:  88º, sun, occasional clouds

About this Hike:  I noticed the sign for Buck Mountain Lookout last weekend while driving up to Flagstaff. We decided to make a return visit today to check out this historic fire lookout. 

I wasn't sure how drivable FR-229 would be, but it ended up being an easy drive up to the last mile where we opted to park and begin the hike. The last spur of road up to the fire lookout is closed anyway, with a sign advising foot traffic only. 

For an historic lookout built in the 1930s, I was surprised to see a lot of modern infrastructure. I'm uncertain when this lookout officially closed. The AI answer I received was in the 1970s, but the signage and infrastructure look newer than that. While the cab is closed and boarded up, the stairs up to the tower are open. In fact, the wood decking of the tower looks surprisingly new. My research also indicated the tower underwent restoration in 2022. 

While obscured by vegetation, the views atop Buck Mountain were impressive. I especially enjoyed using my binoculars to find Apache Maid Mountain (and its fire lookout) along with Wet Beaver Wilderness. Despite their proximity, I was unable to see any of Sedona. 

During our lunch break, an Arizona Sister butterfly landed on my red hiking back. She put on quite a show, pumping her wings while using her proboscis to lap up whatever residue was on my pack. 

The day was hot, save for a few clouds and rumbles of distant thunder. We kept this hike relatively short and then headed back to Pine for beers at That Brewery. 

Bear Jaw Abineau & Walker Lake

Weather:  70º, humid, clouds, occasional light rain, sun later

About this Hike:  Triple digits are here in Arizona, even for Rim Country. I decided to head above 8,000 feet to try and get some respite from the heat. It's been a while since I've explored the Bear Jaw Abineau loop in the Kachina Peaks Wilderness north of Flagstaff. Today seemed to be the perfect day to visit again. 

When I arrived at the trailhead around noon, the sun felt scorching. I feared this was going to be an unpleasant hike. However, dark clouds were building around the Kachina Peaks. While cloud cover would offer some respite from the sun, it also could mean lightning—not something you want when climbing to above 10,000 feet. The forecast had indicated low chance of storms today, but in the mountains during an active monsoon season, a daily storm is almost inevitable. 

In the past I've hiked this loop counter-clockwise. Doing so gets the steeper portion out of the way on the ascent up the Abineau Trail, with a more gradual descent on the Bear Jaw Trail. 

The day ended up being perfect weather-wise. The clouds never thundered, but they did bring respite from the sun. When I reached the Waterline Connector Trail at the top of Abineau Peak, I received a welcome, cooling shower. By the time I reached the junction with Bear Jaw Trail to begin my descent, the sun was already back out. 

Before beginning my descent, I lingered and took in the spectacular views of the mountains and old-growth conifer forest. The Kachina Peaks look like something you'd see in Colorado or in the Rockies. With no major fires in Arizona right now, the air was reasonably clear today. There were views across the meadows studded with ancient volcanic features, reaching all the way up to the rim of the Grand Canyon. The forest floor was alive with wildflowers and colorful berries. 

While the sun came back out, once I got under the canopy of thicker forest, it offered plenty of shade. The forest transitions from high-altitude conifer to massive aspen, and then eventually old-growth ponderosas make a return. The ponderosas are never very dense in this ecosystem, but the ones that have managed to thrive above 8,000 feet are gargantuan. And there's the smell...this is a very fragrant forest. The notes of pine mix with the butterscotch-vanilla of the ponderosas. 

I had such an enjoyable afternoon on Bear Jaw Abineau that I didn't want it to end. Studying the sign and map at the trailhead, I decided on one more quick hike, this to Walker Lake. Walker Lake is a bowl-shaped ancient volcanic feature. Like most of the 'lakes' in this area, it is a meadow that floods in a wet year. 

I parked my truck just off Hart Prairie Road and followed a four-digit forest road back toward the lake. An older couple with a camper van were dispersed camping back a little ways. I could have driven back to the lake, but with an unknown four-digit forest road, I didn't want to risk it. These are often not suitable for anything more than a dirt bike or ATV. 

Walker Lake is just a grassy meadow, with a muddy puddle in the center. Despite all the monsoon action as of late, the Kachina Peaks need a winter of solid snowfall.

Regardless, today was a great day and left me wanting to come up to Flagstaff more often to explore the Inner Basin and all the other neat features this area has to offer. 

Kinder Crossing and Blue Ridge

Weather:  72º, humid, clouds, occasional light rain

About this Hike:  I went up to the rim today planning to explore the short, but interesting, hike at Kinder Crossing. I figured afterward I'd hang around along FR-95 and see what other interesting sights there are. 

I parked the truck at the road for Kinder Crossing (95T) where it intersects FR-95. I didn't want to drive far down this rough, muddy road, opting to hike in instead. I reached the rim of East Clear Creek Canyon and took in the panoramic viewpoints. The sky was growing darker and I heard distant thunder. I second guessed if I should return to the truck, but stubbornly hiked down the switchbacks into the canyon anyway. 

A family was in front of me, and I eventually caught up to them. By the looks of their gear, they were headed down to East Clear Creek to go swimming. With recent monsoon rains, I imagine East Clear Creek would be a great swimming spot. The family was none to happy to see me, frequently watching over their shoulders while they stopped to take pictures and just generally block the trail. 

I took some photos of the striking cliffs and rock formations all reflected by the waters of East Clear Creek. The family continued blocking forward progress on the trail, and the skies kept getting louder. I decided I'd seen what I came to see today, and I turned back.

The approximately 1.5 mile hike back to the truck flew by. I hoofed it out quickly, nervous of the greenish-blue tint to the storm clouds. I hoped the family in the canyon would be OK. 

 I reached the truck before the first rain drops began to fall. While FR-95 is as good of a USFS road as you'll ever get, I decided to return to pavement. I drove down to the Moqui Campground turn off and parked at a trailhead for the Arizona Trail (AZT). 

Reading a book and eating lunch, I waited out the storm. Once it seemed to have past, dropping only a little rain, I ventured out on a new-to-me segment of the AZT. From Moqui to the parking area on FR-751 (Blue Ridge Reservoir), I have not explored that segment of the AZT. In fact, I wrote it off as likely being boring. I ended up being very wrong about this. 

This part of the Blue Ridge AZT segment wanders through grassy meadows, green from all the monsoon rain, and healthy ponderosa pine forest (nice to see since most pines along AZ-87 have either burned or succumbed to beetles). The trail passes by Moqui Campground and then goes straight through Blue Ridge Campground, exiting the camping area right next to the host site. 

The trail climbed a volcanic rock formation, opening up into a wide vista. The San Francisco Peaks were visible, as was a body of water. Too shallow to be Blue Ridge Reservoir, I believe what I saw was Long Lake, or one of the other small lakes in that area. 

As I got closer to where the AZT intersects FR-751, I began to hear dogs and people. I know this to be a popular area for dispersed camping. Having hiked south on the AZT from the FR-751 trailhead previously, I opted to turn around. The skies were getting ornery again, and I didn't think there was anything more to see. 

While I dodged a couple thunderstorms, it made for a rain-cooled and pleasant atmosphere on today's hikes. While Payson was getting slammed with storms and hail, it was a surprisingly nice day in the northern part of Rim Country. 

Monsoon Desert Hike - Canyon of the Waterfalls

Weather:  75º, humid, clouds, rain

About this Hike:  Since its recent rise in social media popularity, I've become intrigued by Canyon of the Waterfalls in the Superstition Mountains. Located on the periphery of Lost Dutchman State Park off First Water Road, I've driven by this trailhead countless times without ever noticing it. 

My plan was to visit this area in the cooler months. An active monsoon this week meant cooler temps and the potential for the waterfalls to be flowing. The stars seemingly aligned for a unique desert hike during an otherwise unthinkable time of year. 

I left Payson early, fearing many others would have the same idea as me. I expected full parking along First Water Road, and I anticipated a possible muddy mess along the road. 

Upon arrival at the waterfall trailhead, I scored the last available parking spot. The road was fairly dry, and the wash that comes right after the waterfall parking area was also dry. This was despite the fact it was still raining.

I parked the truck and wondered if I should have brought my rain jacket. The rain was steady, but not heavy, and there was no lightning or thunder. The jacket would have just made me too hot. As it goes with summer rains in the desert, it never cools things down that much, but it sure does drive the humidity high. 

I found this hike to be challenging to stay on trail. As I neared the first of the rock formations, I noted a lot of slippery black rock that I had to hike up. The slickness was exacerbated by the steady rain. I feared what coming down was going to be like. While wet rocks are inherently slick, I was surprised to find that I had good traction. 

I pressed on past the rock formations, losing the trail and having to search for it several times with my hiking GPS. I followed the trail into a wash that was dry. A large rock outcropping stained black had to be navigated around. I assumed this to be one of the waterfalls, and it was definitely not flowing. 

Beyond this first waterfall, I reached a slick, steep scramble. It wasn't long, nor completely vertical, but I watched other hikers having a terrible time coming down it. Once they passed I gave it a go. The rain was picking up, adding to my overall nervousness. Having hiked in about two miles at this point, I made the tough decision to turn around. 

From a higher point on the trail, I used my binoculars to look up-canyon. I got the impression that the wash in the canyon wasn't flowing much, despite all the recent rain. One of the hikers I encountered at my turnaround point also confirmed this by calling the rest of the hike, "A would-be river." 

Shortly after turning around, the rain stopped. I followed a couple of other hikers who took a path around the slick rocks that I climbed up on the way in. This path stuck to mostly gravel and offered far better traction. This is what happens when you're hiking on an unofficial trail and relying on the footprints of those who've gone before you. 

I'm not sure if I made the right call or not by turning around. Shortly after I turned back, the rain stopped. The trail was already well on its way to drying out by the time I was back at the trailhead. A picture I found on AllTrails dated from the last couple days does show the waterfall up-canyon flowing a bit. While I can be a stubborn individual and keep pressing on in less-than-ideal circumstances, I also can be overly cautious at times. A YouTube video of this hike also indicated there may have been a narrow ledge, rock-wall clinging, and a sheer drop further up-canyon. I am very limited by my extreme fear of heights in such scenarios.  

Maybe one day I'll come back. Perhaps I'll try the waterfall canyon again on a combined trip with another relatively unknown trail in the area that has recently earned social media fame:  Triple Arch Trail.

East Baldy 95

Weather:  79º, sunny

About this Hike:  Just over two years ago I hiked up East Baldy. I was intrigued by the historic plane crash site near the summit. Back in 2024 we were coming off a winter of solid snow pack, and snow fields on the mountain made for an unpleasant hike. Now coming off two lackluster winters, I knew snow wouldn't be a problem on Baldy this year. I wanted to experience East Baldy in drier conditions and see if there are any additional airplane artifacts that were buried in snow last time. 

I forgot just how nice East Baldy is. It's seldom a steep climb, and it remains within forest for most of the hike. There's a lot of unique rock formations to enjoy, and it frequently opens up into stunning viewpoints. 

Unfortunately, a lot of the surrounding forest is succumbing pine beetle--a problem happening all over the western US. Many of the spruces and firs have turned an unpleasant brownish-orange color. Some of the worst die off is in the meadow surrounding the east fork of the Little Colorado River. Thankfully, there is still plenty of healthy old-growth forest to enjoy further up-trail. 

I reached the plane crash site in just over two hours--quite a bit faster than in 2024 when I could've used snowshoes. The only obstacles that slowed me down were areas of deadfall across the trail. Most of these have a side route carved around them, but some were an obstacle course to navigate. 

I didn't find any additional airplane wreckage at the summit. The pieces that I saw two years ago are all that is easily visible. However, mother nature must know this is ultimately a gravesite. The area around the crash is a field of beautiful mountain lupines. 

The wind was howling something fierce near the summit. It was making a eerie whistle through the stands of toothpicks that used to be trees. Some of these were crashing against each other adding to the cacophony. While I ate lunch near the crash site last time, I opted not to do so today. Judging from the amount of deadfall that litters these upper reaches of Mount Baldy, I thought the risk of a tree falling on me was too high. I took some photos and then began my descent back down, glad to have enjoyed East Baldy again in warmer conditions. 

Government Springs

Weather:  79º, sunny

About this Hike:  The plan for today was to head to the White Mountains and kayak at Crescent Lake. This body of water intrigued me last summer when I camped at Big Lake. I was hoping Crescent had fared like the rim lakes--despite virtually no snowpack this winter, the rim lakes filled up to about three-quarters their capacity due to some good rainfall. 

Before heading to the lake, I set up camp at one of my favorites--Winn Campground. The camp host informed me Crescent is considered a dead lake. Upon arrival, I found very low water, mud, and scum. I'm not sure if what I smelled was the scum on the water or the pit toilets... Harkening back to my algae-filled experience kayaking Big Lake last August, I knew better than to even attempt the gross cesspool that is Crescent's current condition. Someday after a winter of heavy snowpack when its full of clean, fresh water, I imagine Crescent will be a fun lake to paddle. 

My Plan B was right across the street from Crescent at the Overland Trail. I opened a gate and parked on the other side. The forest road was in awful condition. An trail sign indicates this is in fact the Overland Trail. It went briefly through some nice forest. It opened into a meadow with a preserved multi-room cabin. The meadow seemed to be an impromptu campground, and I was left wondering how people managed to get fifth-wheel trailers back there. The Overland Trail vanished and I had no luck finding it. The GPS track would indicate I was on trail, but in reality I was walking through a cow and elk poop filled meadow. 

I opted to turn back and try to figure something else out. I thought about Thompson Trail along the Black River. Even though I've done that one a few times before, it would be better than nothing. I opted instead to head back toward Winn Campground and see what Sheeps Crossing was all about. After all, the FS feels that Sheeps Crossing merits a paved parking lot.

I started down the only trail that branched from the parking lot. Soon, I was along the west fork of the Little Colorado. I followed what is an unmapped, but well-maintained trail parallel to the river. And speaking of the river, I think this is a more enjoyable (and less crowded) hike than Thompson Trail. I was surrounded by unique rock formations, trees, wildflowers, and of course, the constant burble of the river. I noted that the trail has clearly received maintenance, and someone has posted green arrow markers on trees. Since you're in a shallow, narrow canyon, it's not hard to stay on trail--just stay parallel with the river. Aside from a few boulder fields and muddy seeps, it was an easy trail to follow.

Since it was late in the day, I only went about two miles and then turned back. Looking at the map, I suspected this trail would lead to Greer. I confirmed that it does in fact lead to Greer, and can be hiked from Government Springs Trailhead. 

While not an official FS trail, Government Springs was a redeeming hike on a day that otherwise had not gone well. It was back to Winn Campground to get ready for tomorrow's hike at East Baldy. 

Webber Weekend

Weather:  85º clouds and sun, humid

About this Hike:  This weekend consisted of two hikes:  West Webber Canyon on Friday and then East Webber Canyon on Saturday. 

I've visited West Webber a couple times previously. Since the relatively low-grade fire that went thru there in September of 2024, I wanted to see how the area is recovering. It's never total decimation, and there's plenty of healthy forest left. Around West Webber creek the bigtooth maples and other deciduous trees are  growing in thick. The weather was cloudy and humid for this hike, although it never rained. 

I encountered some cattle in West Webber Canyon, including a protective bull watching over the herd and calves. I gave him plenty of space, and oddly enough, seemed to find a side trail. Some of the trees were pink-tagged while large, black lengths of PVC hose piping were run along the creek. It definitely was not unexplored territory. 

If I had the time, I could have continued on Geronimo Trail to East Webber, but Friday was just a quick afternoon hike. I came back today (Saturday) and opted to start East Webber by parking below the rim at Geronimo Trailhead. The first 2.7 miles of this hike follow what looks like old roads that are fairly exposed and hot. You're bypassing the private property perimeter around Geronimo Camp. Cutting thru the camp would be a great shortcut, as they've built their own trail access. If only...

I guess we can thank the Geronimo Campers (I believe its Boy Scouts) for the trail markers along Webber trails. These far exceed the standard used by the USFS to mark trails. Not to mention, I believe Geronimo campers do some maintenance on these trails, too. 

Regardless, I reached the entrance to East Webber and then the real fun began. This area also suffered a fire a few years ago. Much like West Webber, fire damage seems to be minimal with plenty of healthy and in-tact forest to enjoy. The scenery is often old-growth ponderosa, spruce, and fir. Their trunks are blackened, yet the crowns are green and healthy. The forest floor was alive with a green carpet of ferns. 

The trail meanders along Webber Creek, crossing a few times. The creek was flowing good today, although not so much as to make crossings difficult. The trail began to get a little more overgrown, and I reached a yellow sign indicating 'Swimming Hole.' In fact there was a nice pool of water with a trickling waterfall. This made a good lunch break spot.

Beyond the swimming hole the trail begins to deteriorate quickly. The map indicates it may go on a bit further, but I wasn't about to go bush whacking. The overgrown canyon had an eerie feel to it, and I figured there was a reason the GPS track stopped here. 

I made good time on the hike back, spurred on by a looming thunderstorm on top of the rim. Eventually I got rained on, but it was a welcome respite on what was a hot day for hiking. Regardless, I'm glad to have enjoyed both ends of Webber Canyon. 

Fred Haught

Weather:  79º and sunny

About this Hike:  About five years ago we explored the Fred Haught Cabin. Back then the Mogollon Rim felt so exotic. Now Rim Country is home, but that still doesn't take away the allure of this unique microclimate in the high country of Arizona. 

After doing Barbershop last weekend, I felt I wanted more of the same for this weekend. Returning to Fred Haught seemed like the perfect solution. 

The hike starts at the General Springs Cabin. This restored cabin is quite possibly the most in-tact of all the Cabin Loops sites. However, the front door has been removed and you can now wander inside. It hasn't been graffitied, set of fire, etc...yet. Inside you can clearly see the log-beam construction. There is a small room at the back of the cabin. 

I carried on with my hike. Fred Haught meanders through meadows carved out by the General Spring. The creek was full of water, and I was surprised to see some sizable fish in the pools. Old-growth ponderosa dominates this landscape, with areas of spruce and fir mixed in. 

The sign that vaguely indicates a half-mile side hike to Fred Haught Cabin is still standing and easily visible. The cabin is nothing more than some rotting timbers arranged in a square and flat rocks stacked to make a fireplace and chimney. I have my doubts that any of this is original construction. 

I decided to follow the Fred Haught Trail a little further. Forest Road 95 ended up being my turnaround point. The area was now grassland with what ponderosas remain in an otherwise heavily logged landscape. 

The repeating cycle of old-growth forest, stream, and meadow along the Mogollon Rim never gets old. I was glad to enjoy this part of Cabin Loop again.

Barbershop Spring Hike

Weather:  70º, sun

About this Hike:  Originally I was going to spend this weekend at South Rim of the Grand Canyon. I was finally going to explore Shoshone Point and South Kaibab. Only the weather didn't cooperate. And work didn't cooperate. I cancelled my prime campsite in Mather Campground and opted to stay home.

Regardless, getting back to Barbershop this spring has been on my short list. With sunny skies, cooler temps, and rain a few days ago, now seemed like a perfect time. The Barbershop trailhead off FR-321 was completely empty. 

We enjoyed the hike thru massive old-growth spruce and fir, mixing with plenty of ponderosa pine. The meadows were green with grass, and Barbershop Creek had some muddy water in it. 

When we reached Barbershop's terminus at Houston Brothers Trail, it was a different scene. Cars filled most all available parking spots along FR-139. Ironically, we saw just one backpacking couple on the trail the entire afternoon. Perhaps everyone was hiking on Houston Brothers. 

This lush ecosystem—largely void of any desert plants—remains a favorite escape on the Mogollon Rim.

Haigler Creek Falls

Weather:  79º, sun, windy

About this Hike:  After this plan going sideways two weeks ago, today was finally my chance to explore the Haigler Creek Recreation Area. 

The plan for today consisted of two hikes. The first of these involved going a mile or so past the Haigler Creek neighborhood and exploring an area on the outskirts of Hellsgate Wilderness. On satellite imagery and thru my binoculars, I've observed large, white squares in Hellsgate. I wanted to see one of these up close, and found one just past Haigler. The infrastructure in question is a large water catchment device for wildlife. I hiked a bit past the water catchment, as my satellite-imagery research led me to think this could be an interesting ridge with some viewpoints. It was a flat hike along a ridge with some views down toward Young and distant meadows. The most scenic thing about it was the cholla cactus that were in full bloom with bright magenta flowers and clusters of yellow fruit. 

The Hellsgate hike was just a warmup. My next stop was Haigler Creek with the intent to hike to the famed Haigler waterfall. The trail to the waterfall is actually an active road, but it's in rough shape. With plenty of parking available just off FR-200, I opted to hike in. There were plenty of ATVs, but also a surprising number of trucks and SUVs, most of which were lifted, had off-road tires, etc. 

I got a little off course while following the All Trails map. It showed me off trail, despite the fact I was following the road. I wasted some time hunting for the GPS track on the map--an ever-moving target--thinking it was a side trail off the main road. Finally I gave up and just opted to follow the road. Eventually I rejoined the All Trails route track.

 As I got deeper into the canyon, the forest of ponderosa and fir became more and more dense. Descending a steep hill, the waters of Haigler Creek came into view. 

Every camp spot along the creek was occupied. The creek had decent flow, and plenty of inviting pools, which campers were taking full advantage of. I pressed on toward the falls, negotiating three creek crossings. The path continued to be an ATV road, yet at times it would disappear, only to reappear a little further downline. I assumed ATVs drive in the creek bed for these stretches. 

Speaking of the creek bed, it quickly went from flowing to dry, chalky rocks. The reddish canyon walls were impressive, but the dry creek bed did not bode well for the falls. Just before the falls, I was delayed while a convoy of Jeeps made their way out of the canyon. I could not believe street vehicles, no matter how lifted, made it all the way back here. Even more nerve wracking was watching them navigate the rocks, getting the Jeeps on crazy angles. 

The falls were unmistakable, but the only evidence of water was a muddy pool at the base. Regardless, I enjoyed the thick forest and plant life along the wetter portions of Haigler Creek. I'm glad to finally have explored this area. 

Walnut and Two Ravens Loop

Weather:  75º, mostly cloudy

About this Hike:  The plan today was to explore some trails down near Haigler Creek. Unfortunately, a crash—and subsequent road closure—on 260 threw a wrench in those plans. Rather than waste nearly $5/gallon fuel, we decided to pivot and head north toward Pine.

I explored Walnut Trail a few weeks ago. At that time, I stuck to the part of Walnut that runs in tandem with the Arizona Trail. However, I was curious what the path would look like if I continued north on Walnut. I was also intrigued by a brand new trail called Two Ravens. 

While Two Ravens is so new it doesn't appear on most maps yet, I was able to determine that northern Walnut could be looped by starting at Hardscrabble Road and using Two Ravens as a connector. This also allowed for a hike to Oak Spring. 

In fact, the northern part of Walnut is some of the best this trail system has to offer. It follows a dry creek through a riparian canyon. Tall ponderosas provide some shade, while gamble oak and bigtooth maple had me already planning a return hike in the fall. Eventually we reached Oak Spring. From there, we used the Arizona Trail to climb out of the canyon and junction with Two Ravens. 

Two Ravens is a nice, groomed path. I noticed two other new trails called Bradshaw and Waterfall—both of which junction with Two Ravens. Since you're right up against the land boundaries with the town of Pine, I doubt these trails go very far. They still may be worth investigating. 

This 4.6 mile loop ended back at Hardscrabble road. It definitely wasn't what I planned for this weekend, but it was better than just turning around and going home. 

Return to Bear Flat

Weather:  65º, mostly cloudy

About this Hike:  We've wanted to return to Bear Flat since first visiting in early November of last year. Today was finally our chance. 

After parking at the trailhead outside the private Bear Flat neighborhood, we carefully crossed Tonto Creek. In general, flow was lower today than it was in November. The water crossings on FR-405 were mostly dry today.

Despite having learned a lesson about how to follow the main Bear Flat trail last time, we still managed to get a little off course at the start. We stayed parallel to the fence that marks the land boundary. We kept paralleling it, even as it got steeper and steeper. Finally, I realized this was wrong. A quick check of hiking GPS and we were able to get back on course relatively quick. Even on the correct trail, the hike out of Tonto Creek and Bear Flat is no picnic...it's extremely steep. 

We continued past Mescal Ridge, picking up were we left off last time. The pine forest only got thicker. And it stayed that way. I was amazed at the density of healthy ponderosa pine and fir trees in this area. It feels like this should be up on the Mogollon Rim. 

Last November we also visited the southern end of the Bear Flat trail near Haigler Creek. I observed the same dense pine forest down there. I just didn't realize that it extended all the way north along Bear Flat Trail, especially with so much of Hellsgate Wilderness being more high desert vegetation. 

During that southern Bear  Flat hike, I also mentioned wanting to reach Horse Mountain. Today we made it to Horse Mountain, but it was nothing distinct. Rather the trail (more like the typical Hellsgate ATV road) wrapped around the side of Horse Mountain. I could look up the steep hill and see dense pine forest. 

At the 5.5 mile mark from Bear Flat is where the vegetation finally opened up. We got some views to the south with Tonto Basin, Sierra Ancha Wilderness, and Four Peaks coming into view. The ridgeline of Christopher Mountain to the northeast was also a distinct feature. Otherwise, the vegetation on this hike often obscured any potential viewpoints. The trail was going to begin a steep drop beyond this point. We opted to make this our turnaround. 

Since last fall we've done a lot of day hikes around Hellsgate. I would like to see a part of Hellsgate called Salt Canyon. In that area I've observed a large, white piece of infrastructure thru binoculars. It may be some type of water catchment device. I'm definitely intrigued. However, unless I get into overnight backpacking, some of the deeper parts of Hellsgate may not be easily accessible via a day hike. 

Arizona Trail Passage 25 - Walnut Trail 251

Weather:  67º, mostly cloudy, windy

About this Hike:  I needed some nature time this Sunday afternoon. I decided to check out a hike I've bookmarked near Pine. The plan was to hike along Arizona Trail (AZT) Passage 25 down to an area called Oak Spring. 

Rather than park at the 'official' trailhead for this hike at the Pine Trailhead, I opted to utilize a dirt road on the west side of 87 so I could avoid having to cross 87 from the trailhead. This also would put me closer to the segment of AZT that I intended to hike. Overall this was a good strategy, although the road was a little rutted and bumpy. 

Despite being close to Pine neighborhoods, this hike felt more remote. As I left rooftops and ranches behind, it began to feel a lot more remote. I crossed a small, trickling creek and then several other dry ones. That canyon that contains Oak Spring came into view. It is an impressive canyon, easily accessed by the well-maintained AZT. While this is part of the AZT, a junction sign indicated the official trail name to be Walnut Trail (#251). 

The canyon area is a lush riparian environment. Ponderosa pines again come into view, having faded for a bit on the more desert portion of this hike between here and the trailhead. The first creek in the canyon was dry. Bigtooth maples have just put on their spring leaves...something I made a mental note of for this fall. A little further into the Oak Spring canyon revealed a sign and side trail to its namesake. The spring was tricking and the spring box was full. I also checked out a grassy meadow directly up the bank from the spring. 

Having reached this area in about an hour, I decided to hike on a little further. I climbed out of Oak Spring and hiked the AZT along the top of what seemed to be a mesa. There were good views to the south of Houston Mesa, Granite Dells, and the Mazatzals. The environment up here was rocky and high desert grassland, yet the juniper, gamble oak, and occasional pinion pine were surprisingly thick. 

Seeing another riparian-looking area with ponderosa pines ahead, I opted to press on a little further. At this point the trail became what was clearly an old two-track road. A utility line bisected the trail overhead. I hiked through the riparian area, climbed again, and opted to make this my turnaround point. This was 4.5 miles, making for a nine-mile Sunday afternoon out-and-back today. 

Sunflower Mine and Cornucopia

Weather:  79º, sunny

About this Hike:  I thoroughly enjoyed my hike a few weeks ago at Saddle Mountain along Passage 22 of the Arizona Trail (AZT). So much so, that I began plotting a continuation hike just as soon as I got home. 

Originally I considered driving FR-25 to Mormon Flat TH and continuing along Passage 22 from there. Instead, I created a route that involved parking at the FR-25 / 25A junction, hiking the road 3.5 miles, and then doing a loop of similar length using Thicket Trail and Cornucopia Trail, which is part of the AZT. I would skip a couple miles of Passage 22, but I'm not sure there's much to see beyond Saddle Mountain. 

I find it amazing that anyone can drive in on FR-25A. Even with a lifted Jeep or ATV, there are some insane rock walls and obstacles. Surprisingly, about a mile in I crossed a bridge. The guardrails and signage didn't look that old. I read this bridge was rebuilt in the 1990s.

I imagine 25A was a much better road sometime in decades past. This road leads to the abandoned Sunflower Mine, which I stopped to visit. An old tumbler pipe and some concrete foundations are all that remain, although I read structures and artifacts were still on the site as recent as 2012, just prior to that year's Sunflower Fire. 

Beyond the mine, the hike went into lush riparian sycamore and cottonwoods that flank Sycamore Creek. There were rocks all shades of the rainbow, especially blue-green and red cinnabar-studded stones. Unfortunately this part of the hike was not enjoyable. The gnats were the worst I've ever experienced. I was rushing through this area hoping that hotter, more exposed terrain would offer some relief from the bugs. 

There was short-lived relief from the gnats at the junction for Thicket Trail which I opted to follow first and clockwise, closing the loop via Cornucopia Trail. I expected Thicket would live up to its name, and it did. Thicket isn't so much a trail as it is just a narrow drainage. It got more overgrown and the gnats came back. I was not enjoying it at all, and it had a creepy vibe. I turned back.

Upon reaching the junction, I was getting tired, but opted to go up Cornucopia. Since this is part of the AZT, it gets much better maintenance. Mount Peeley loomed not so far ahead. Old growth firs and ponderosa pine came into view. The bugs weren't as bad. I intended to only go a short ways on Cornucopia. Thirty minutes later I was at the junction with Thicket. Only there was no Thicket Trail there, just a sign and lots of overgrowth. Skipping the Thicket portion of what would have been a lollipop loop was the right choice. I'm not one for bushwhacking. 

Mount Peeley parking area was 1.5 miles according to the junction sign. The hot, exposed manzanita-covered switchbacks did not appeal to me. Plus, I've been up to Mount Peeley a couple times in the past, so this wouldn't be any new scenery. I made this my turnaround point with five miles back to the FR-25 / 25A junction. 

The hike out went fast as I fought my way thru flocks of gnats, failing to enjoy the riparian scenery that I otherwise love. Despite some challenges, this was an enjoyable Mazatzals hike. 

Saddle Mountain: Passage 22 of Arizona Trail

Weather:  79º, sunny

About this Hike:  Still coming off the high from last week's enjoyable hike near Buckhorn Mountain, a thought hit me:  "What kind of hiking is there near Sunflower? Doesn't the AZT run down that way?"

A little research and planning later, and I had a hike in mind for this unseasonably warm weekend. Honestly, I probably could have gone up on the Mogollon Rim and been comfortable this weekend. Instead, I headed to lower elevation, knowing that the clock is fast running out for hiking weather down there.

All week I debated whether I should access Saddle Mountain - Passage 22 of the AZT from the Cross F Ranch Trailhead (McFarland TH on Google Maps) or the Mormon Grove Trailhead.  The point of contention was that Mormon Grove spits you out right at the namesake Saddle Mountain.  It also requires some dirt road driving.  Cross F has paved-road access but requires about five miles and 2,000 feet of elevation gain to reach Saddle Mountain. I was uncertain if this five mile hike was going to be interesting or just traverse exposed high-desert grassland. 

I ultimately chose the easier access afforded by Cross F trailhead. The trail here is called Little Saddle Mountain.  Being part of the AZT, it is very well maintained.

Little Saddle ended up being a great choice. While I definitely felt the elevation gain, it was never overly steep nor treacherous.  The entire hike featured some colorful geology. Rocks of every hue—blue, grey, quartz, red, purple, etc. cover the landscape. 

And when I wasn't in rocky spots, I was traversing riparian areas. Some of the creeks had a little water in them, while others were dry. There were sycamore trees and granddaddy pinion pines. Unfortunately, being late winter / early spring, there were a ton of gnats in the riparian areas. 

A much nicer thing that spring brings out: desert wildflowers. These were all shades of orange, red, yellow, and purple. There was one particularly showy strawberry hedgehog cactus. The hillsides were covered in fragrant shrubs sporting tiny white flowers. I called these honeysuckle, although AI tells me they are cliffrose. One of the riparian areas even had a few golden columbines growing in it. I was shocked to see these at ~3,800 feet. They usually grow in the forests on the Mogollon Rim. 

After studying the topographical map of this hike, I wasn't certain what kind of views I would enjoy. I figured more than likely hills an shrubbery would hide most views. That said, I was aware that Bartlett Lake and the lower Verde River were just a few miles west as the crow flies.  

Upon cresting a ridge, the Verde River canyon came into view, although the water wasn't visible. The McDowell Mountains came into view, confirming that the rooftops I could see were in fact North Scottsdale. The Sierra Estrellas were even visible, poking up through the smog soup that is the Phoenix Valley. 

I pressed on to the namesake Saddle Mountain. Along the way I enjoyed views of a mountain that had pale white cliffs banded with a deep-red vein below it. It was even deeper red than the rocks of Sedona.

Eventually Saddle Mountain came into view. It is certainly a tall peak, although there really wasn't much else to see. The better views, in my opinion, were of the hills directly east. Views of Mount Ord and green rolling hills topped with fiery red-orange rock peaks. 

A chalky rock formation at Saddle Mountain was my turnaround point, this marking just over five miles from the start. There was a side trail with an AZT sign posted that indicated the side trail was not part of the main path. I decided to venture down this. Tall trees quickly came into view, indicating water was nearby. This short jaunt led to a flat, grassy meadow. I'd love to know more on the story surrounding this spot...

The weather had changed a bit since when I started. Gone was the hot, intense sun. A welcome cool breeze and some clouds had rolled in. The light was completely different on the way back down. I noticed Red Mountain, Superstition Mountain and Weaver's Needle down below along with some buildings in Mesa. Poking up through the smog was the unmistakable shape of Mt. Lemmon and the Catalinas all the way down in Tucson. 

Ultimately, I am glad I chose to do this route today. I did pass the junction for the Mormon Grove Trailhead.  I think I will come back and utilize that trailhead to hike further north on Passage 22. Eventually it reaches Mount Peeley, an area I am already quite familiar with exploring. 

Buckhorn Mountain via Four Peaks Trail 130

Weather:  79º, sunny

About this Hike:  Spring has sprung early this year. Last weekend I was on my kayak at Apache Lake. From the lake I saw a looming mountain with a green peak. Buckhorn Mountain is its name, and I had researched it about a year ago. I was even more intrigued by the fact there's a designated wildlife research area near the top. 

Buckhorn looked to be an achievable hike using Four Peaks Trail 130 / Arizona Trail from the Mills Ridge Trailhead. This hike was relatively short, but with significant elevation gain. The weather is only getting hotter this spring, so I figured today was the day to visit Buckhorn.

The drive up Mills Ridge (FR-429) was easy. It's about five miles on good, packed dirt with only a few bumpy areas. At the trailhead I happened to run into a social media couple that posts about all things Arizona hiking. I said hello, but they didn't say much, seeming to be in a hurry to leave. Per their social media, they had camped up there the night before. 

At the start of the hike I was treated to desert wildflowers popping everywhere. From purple lupines, to desert marigolds, to Mexican poppies, and so many more—the ridges are a sea of color right now. This is testament to what has been a very warm, but somewhat wet winter in Arizona. 

Also testament to this winter's conditions, the gnats were awful on this hike. The worst were in a sandy, riparian flat area that appears to be popular for backpackers to set up camp. Otherwise, the trail was great, with this section receiving very regular maintenance. 

As I climbed higher, the wildflowers dissipated while gamble oak and manzanita took over. The views of Roosevelt Lake and the surrounding green, wrinkly mountains were breathtaking. Distant creeks formed lined with saguaro cacti drained toward Apache Lake. Sierra Ancha and Salome Wilderness areas were glowing a firey red hue under today's cloudless skies, although there was some haze in the air. What I believe to be Mount Graham was visible looking south beyond Globe. 

I reached Buckhorn Creek where the summit of Buckhorn Mountain comes into full view. It's rocky knob is studded with a few rugged ponderosa (or subspecies Apache) pine trees. These mostly line the ravines and washes that lead to the top. 

Peak baggers and hardier types than myself bushwhack to the Buckhorn summit, but I was content to view through my binoculars. I did wonder about views of Apache Lake from the summit, but other than that, the views weren't apt to get much better than what I was already enjoying. 

After about four miles in I returned to Mills Ridge. Today's hike truly was a desert-to-pines experience with plenty of stunning views and beautiful wildflowers in between.

Donahue Trail

Weather:  76º, sunny

About this Hike:  I didn't have lofty expectations for Donahue Trail. While it is a climb up to Milk Ranch Point on the Mogollon Rim, I also know this area is burned pretty badly from the Sept. 2024 West Fire. 

However, today was a half day of work, and with unseasonably beautiful temperatures, I knew I had to get out and do something. I think the last time I visited the Pine Trailhead we were still wearing masks and social distancing. 

From Pine TH the Arizona Trail, Highline, Pine Canyon, and a shorter jaunt called Pine View Trail all converge. In many places the trails run together. Despite well-signed junctions, it can make taking a precise route confusing. In fact, I made a wrong turn on Pine View, deviating from the AZT / Highline route I had planned. No worry though, Pine View looped around and hooked back onto the correct path. 

I reached a crossing at Pine Creek, which was flowing fairly strong—testament to the fact that just one week ago the area experienced measurable snowfall. And speaking of that precipitation, shortly after the creek crossing the trail began to get annoyingly muddy. My personal annoyance aside, I'm glad the area is still retaining moisture. 

Once I reached the junction with Donahue the mud let up. Donahue was more rocky, but it was a good trail. It was never too steep, and always in good condition. It does pass through some burn scar, although the vegetation in this area is mostly juniper and chaparral, with the occasional pinon pine mixed in. 

I reached the out cropping of Milk Ranch Point and found a shady juniper to take a break under. It had been a hot, exposed climb up. I enjoyed the views of the town of Pine, Bear Canyon, and Payson / Granite Dells to the south. 

The hike down Donahue wasn't too bad, taking about 20 minutes until I reached the junction at AZT / Highline. This time I followed the correct route back, not getting tangled up on Pine View. This afforded me two additional crossings of Pine Creek. At another junction Highline and AZT split, although the junction sign indicates they both return you to the Pine TH parking area. I opted for the AZT fork since this was on the GPS track. I watched the slightly longer Highline segment run parallel to the south and then go into a stand of ponderosa pines. Despite being slightly longer, I kind of wish I had picked the Highline track. Regardless, I finished the hike a few minutes earlier than anticipated. 

FR-67 to East Verde River

Weather:  59º, sunny

About this Hike:  This hike came together this morning. I was looking for something to do. Just 24 hours ago we had near an inch of snow on the ground, while the Mogollon Rim is still looking pretty white. I knew the best hiking opportunities would be found at lower, desert elevation.

I decided to check out the Graff Road Trailhead on the northwest side of Payson. I mapped out a hike primarily following FR-67. Of note is a hill called White Mountain and then a potential viewpoint into the Verde River.  The vegetation is definitely of the high desert variety with an abundance of juniper, pinion pine, and prickly pear cacti. 

The 67 road is a lot like all the other hikes I've been doing lately—rocky, steep in places, and an old ATV road. The hike started out with soft ground and some mud. I was wondering if I made a good decision. I passed thru the first of two cattle gates, and the ground began to improve. It seemed to get drier as I continued my descent toward the East Verde.

Meanwhile, spectacular views of the Mazatzals kept me company, the mountain tops dusted in snow. The Mogollon Rim was also visible to the north, while the red-banded cliffs of the Verde River canyon were straight ahead. 

I reached the White Mountain and found it to be an underwhelming little butte. I didn't think it worth my time to hike up it. I pressed on toward the river. 

The descent became very steep at this point. The soil changed from chalky and pale to deep reddish-purple. This is an ATV road, and past motorists have added wood blocks trying to offset the extreme erosion and steepness of the road down to the river. It was hard enough to hike, and I would not want to drive down this in any vehicle.

I ate lunch at the Verde River. The river had a descent flow to it with the rain and snow we enjoyed earlier this week. The water was light brown and very turgid. The un-submerged riverbed was surprisingly not muddy, and so I hiked up-river a bit. 

The road continues across the river, although the map indicates this may be private land. I didn't feel like risking a repeat of last weekend's adventure, and I also didn't feel like navigating a water crossing. The river was my turnaround point for a hike that totaled nearly 10 miles and ~1,400 of elevation change. 

FR-371 to Agate Mountain

Weather:  63º, sunny

About this Hike:  My home in Payson faces the Granite Dells which is known for Boulder Loop and Cypress Trail hiking areas.  Having a view of these mountains from my front yard, I was curious what lies on the other side of this pink granite range. 

Studying the maps, it looked like FR-371 would offer some views of the back side of the dells and possibly some views into an area I've been exploring all winter—Hellsgate Wilderness.  The access point was easy, just a few miles down the road in neighboring Star Valley.  The plan was to use FR-974 as a connector to FR-371 and follow this to a feature called Agate Mountain. 

The map indicated I would have to drive through neighborhoods to access FR-974. However, it also showed that the federal land boundary began immediately east of the neighborhood road. With a couple local businesses in the area, I believed the road to be a public right-of-way for residential and commercial use. 

I parked my truck in a large clearing near FR-974. A fence marked the beginning of 974 which was just a rough ATV road. The fence spanned the narrow roadway, but was otherwise accessible to walk around as a hiker. Interestingly, FR-974 exists only on the All Trails map...

After a brief riparian area near Houston Creek, FR-974 takes a steep climb. It ends at a junction with FR-371. While 371 has the Forest Service's brown stakes marking it, 974 has no such markers.

We followed 371 for a few miles, passing by some cow tanks and having a ubiquitous view of buzzy, high-tension utility lines above. In fact, the little butte known as Agate Mountain serves as an anchor point for a couple of those big, steel utility towers. 

The views on this hike were spectacular. From Agate we had 360º views of the Mogollon Rim, the backside of the Granite Dells, the Mazatzals, and into Hellsgate Wilderness. The dells have more prominence on this side due to being a few hundred feet lower than they are in Payson. The pink walls of the Houston Creek canyon also loomed close by. While there were some drop offs on the backside of Agate, these were more 'stepped' rock shelves covered in vegetation. In other words, no views into Houston Creek, although I could hear the water running. 

A beautiful afternoon hike ended up tainted a bit upon returning to the truck. An unhappy land owner let me know that I had trespassed on his land, despite what I thought was plenty of due diligence in mapping this out respective of private land boundaries.  He admitted his No Trespassing sign was sun-faded while an elk had plowed down the fence that used to mark the federal land boundary... I found it odd that neither the Forest Service nor this land owner bothered to mark the property boundary. In other areas where I've hiked adjacent to private land, boundaries are well-marked by both entities. I'm left to wonder if FR-974 is even an official road or an inaccuracy on All Trails. It exists on no other maps, nor does Tonto NF mention it on their website. 

The correct way to have done this hike would have been to drive in via FR-371, similar to how I accessed The Buttes area last month. I can't vouch for the condition of this section of 371, but I suspect it degrades quite a bit past the Star Valley brush pit. I'm just grateful I didn't get shot or have my truck towed...  

King Ridge - FR-1625

Weather:  70º, sunny

About this Hike:  I created a GSP track for today's hike after studying a topographical map. It looked like there was potential for this to lead to a good Hellsgate Wilderness viewpoint. 

I've done a lot of exploring of Hellsgate in the past few months. Most of my previous hikes had limited viewpoints and overlooks due to the topography (tapered drops / rock shelves versus sheer drops) and the vegetation. Today that changed.

I began my hike at the Hellsgate Trail 37 parking area. I followed what is actually FR-893 for a brief time, turning  a hard left at the junction with FR-1625. A cattle gate blocks 1625, but after a little fumbling with the barbed wire hook, I walked on thru, being sure to close the gate behind me. 

What I was hiking on was the backbone of King Ridge. I explored a side path that led down to aptly named King Ridge Tank. For the first half of the hike there hadn't been many cow pies. This began to change on the second half of the hike. 

The terrain also changed a bit on the second half. Typical of the Hellsgate Wilderness, the actual trails are ATV roads. The first half was mostly packed dirt, but the second half became more of a rollercoaster. The trail would take a steep descent on large, slippery scree. Then it would level out in a flat area. The flat would have a big old juniper tree providing shade, and the soil would be a turgid mixture of hoof prints and cow pies. Then the cycle would repeat as the trail would climb steeply. The final portion of the hike was almost all descent. 

FR-1625 ends on the narrowing backbone of King Ridge. It is here that I got some of the best views yet into Hellsgate Wilderness. It was a breathtaking 360º panorama. The Mogollon Rim and Promontory Butte were visible to the north. The distant mountains and ridges within Hellsgate were visible to the south. The point of the peninsula is formed by the convergence of Salt Lick Canyon and Tonto Creek. And speaking of Tonto Creek—there is an excellent viewpoint. It is something of a horseshoe bend in the creek, although the crux of it is hidden both by topography and a big pinon pine. Regardless, the turquoise waters of Tonto were flowing strong. In the calm and stillness atop King Ridge, I could even hear the roar of the creek. My binoculars revealed deep pools, being drained by small waterfalls. 

I ate lunch and spent considerable time enjoying the views at the end of FR-1625. While a knocked over post marked the end of the road, a footpath continued on. I left my pack on a rocky knob that had been my lunch spot, grabbed my binoculars, and opted to explore. I hiked another 12-15 minutes along old cattle paths, dodging cow pies everywhere. My goal was to get to the very end of the peninsula to see if there were any other interesting viewpoints. There weren't. In fact, it looks like the peninsula drops down steeply into a green meadow. It was steeper than I was willing to explore. Someone's been there though, as the map shows Ripper Tank being in that meadow. 

Across the narrow canyon formed by Tonto Creek, other flat, pale green meadows were visible. I believe these are accessible via Big Ridge Trail 177, although this is an area I've yet to explore. Through my binoculars I could also see a large white square of infrastructure on one of the meadows. I studied satellite imagery and believe this to be some sort of water catchment. It makes sense with all the cow tanks and cattle ranching in the area. 

It was now past 2:30pm and I had a 5.5 mile hike back to the truck. I anticipated the scree would slow me down as it did on the inbound hike. Shortly after departing the overlook, I began to hear loud moos. I soon encountered a bull that was making his way down the path. I stepped off the path and down a hill. A cattle path seemed to parallel the main road, so I followed it until mister bull was long past me. I then hiked back up to FR-1625. 

While more tiring on the body, hiking up the scree hills wasn't nearly as bad. The rocks hurt my feet some, but at least it wasn't as slippery as the hike down was. I arrived back to the truck around 4:30pm. 

The views of the wilderness area and of Tonto Creek were exactly the Hellsgate experience I've been wanting to have these past few months. 

Jack's Canyon, Hot Loop, & Horse Mesa

Weather:  69º, sunny

About this Hike:  I am intrigued by Munds Mountain near Sedona. However, hiking Munds appears to involve many miles of hiking to the trail via Jack's Canyon, or a drive over some challenging forest roads that likely aren't suitable for my truck. 

I opted to explore Jack's Canyon / Hot Loop to Horse Mesa instead, thinking this might be a similar alternative. 

The trail starts in typical Sedona red rock. It offers some interesting canyon views while the drainages along the trail still had some standing water. This year is an interesting conundrum in that Sedona is downright hot for January, yet there is still a lot of mud and standing water as we come off a very wet holiday season. Last year at this time Sedona was cooler, but drier too. 

Eventually red rocks give way to the black rocks that define the tops of many of the mesas around Sedona. The foliage changed to high desert. By the time we were on top of Horse Mesa there was a lot of juniper, yucca, and scrubby pinon pines. The soil on the mesa was dry, yet was muddy and stuck to our boots at the same time. 

We visited an overlook and got some views of the immediate area around Horse Mesa. Bell Rock, Cockscomb, and other Sedona landmarks were in full view. Otherwise, local neighborhoods were all that loomed below. 

This was just over the two-mile point. I originally intended to go about four miles, but the map indicated the trail would move to the center of the mesa and away from any viewpoints. It was boring desert scenery, so we opted to turn around and return the way we came. 

Someday with some further research I may check out Munds Mountain. I gather the scenery is better up there, and if there's one thing I've learned, you never run out of new things to explore in Sedona.  

Secret Canyon

Weather:  61º, sunny

About this Hike:  The mystique of Secret Canyon and Secret Mountain Wilderness continues to allure me. Coming off a rainy spell, I decided to hike to Secret Canyon today to see if the waterfall was flowing. I hiked in via Chuckwagon, having parked along the side of the paved Long Canyon Road. Even if FR-152 were open (barricades are up), I would never attempt this in my truck. The mud, the ruts—152 is hardly a road anymore. It's a shame too, because it limits how much of this area one can explore in a day, with at least five extra miles hiking by using Chuckwagon as an access point. 

The Secret Canyon waterfall had decent flow to it today. Being as I reached it by noon, I opted to press on. Every other time I've done this trail circumstances have never allowed me to go much beyond the waterfall. Today that changed. I pressed into Secret Canyon.

There were plenty of creek crossings, although always with solid rock bridges. The creek was flowing enough to be pretty, but not enough to impede crossings. The canyon was cold in spots, with some snow remaining while icicles hung off the red canyon walls. At one point the creek narrowed into a little slot canyon. 

The trail crossed the creek, climbed up above it, and then dropped down to cross again.  This cycle repeated often. Beyond the red canyon walls, this secret area is filled with ponderosa pine and some firs. It is beautiful. However, it does feel very remote, and I had a foreboding sense today. No worries though, the only wildlife I saw was a deer. My footing was always solid. And remote as it feels, Edge of the World sits just above Secret Canyon on the rim top. 

I opted to turn around about halfway into Secret Canyon per the All Trails GPS track. The trail was getting more overgrown and harder to follow. I figured it would just get more treacherous the deeper I went. While old-growth pine and red rocks are beautiful, the scenery was getting to be a little underwhelming. 

The hike out felt endless. I was tired and a little sore. If only the Secret Canyon parking area is where this hike ended with my truck waiting to carry me out on a graded gravel road! There was still close to three miles back along FR-152 and then Chuckwagon. 

With a properly equipped ATV I imagine one can explore a lot more of Secret Mountain Wilderness. Maps indicate miles of forest roads on the rim top near Edge of the World. There are some intriguing trails up there, although I get the impression most of those exist only on maps and in memories these days. I'll be honest—the mystique is wearing off. I'm beginning to think I've seen the best of what I can access in Secret Canyon. 

Hellsgate FR 1270

Weather:  55º, mostly cloudy

About this Hike:  A few weeks ago when we explored Hellsgate Trail 37 I noted a vast canyon. Across the canyon I saw a peninsula-type outcropping with a clear ATV road / trail on it. Studying the map, I thought this to be FR-1270. 

We drove in via FR-371, and parked near a shooting area and old corral. The 1270 road is very rough and narrow—at best it'll accommodate ATVs only. 

The hike starts off in interesting pinon pine and juniper forest. It drops down to Green Valley Creek which had a good flow to it. The canyon around Green Valley Creek contains sycamores in addition to thick pinon pine. The humidity was noticeably higher down in here, and there was a clean, earthy smell to the air. The rock formations are a pale pink color, reminiscent of the nearby Granite Dells / Stewart Pocket area.

A long, steep climb up eventually led away from Green Valley Creek. We slogged it out a few more miles, the views into Hellsgate Wilderness becoming increasingly better. As we neared the end of the hike just past an area called The Buttes (I didn't note any impressive buttes, but whatever), Payson came into view. 

I was not expecting Payson to be visible from here. Not only was the town visible, but I noted several landmarks including one in my own neighborhood. While I could see the neighborhood thru my binoculars, I was unable to find my house, likely because it's a one-story and hidden by trees. Also visible were the Granite Dells and Stewart Peak—both very visible from my front yard. With similar rock formations and vegetation, today was a reminder that boundaries are drawn by man. Granite Dells is part of the same ecosystem that largely forms Hellsgate Wilderness. 

The hike ended at Butte Tank. Supposedly there's an old cabin in the area called Neal Cabin, although I did not look for it. While I didn't get the rugged canyon views I anticipated today, I still enjoyed the views into Hellsgate and of Payson. It's funny to me how close I was to home as the crow flies, yet so far away in a remote wilderness area.