Chiricahua Big Loop

Weather:  71º, clouds and wind, occasional sun

About this Hike:  The Big Loop is an All Trails route. It combines multiple trails and gives an excellent overview of the best Chiricahua has to offer.

We opted to park at Massai Point point, which is the end of the scenic drive. This hike may actually be easier parking at Echo Canyon as we had to use a short connector trail to get the loop started from Massai. 

Regardless, the trail took us through several canyons including Sarah Demming Canyon and Upper Rhyolite, both of which were lush with a flowing stream and tall pines. Big Loop also traverses Chiricahua's signature hoodoos, winds around teetering balanced rocks, and loops through Heart of the Rocks where various formations are given names denoted by signs. 

Like most [soon to be] national parks, Chiricahua has an Inspiration Point. This is an out-and-back side trail and we opted to skip it since it looked to offer views into a canyon we'd just climbed out of. 

Echo Canyon ended up being one of the best parts of this loop. The scary part is I almost skipped it. There is a junction and the sign says that both directions will take you back to Massai Point parking. If I had followed the Hailstone Trail it would've gotten me back to Massai, but I would've missed one of the best parts of Chiricahua. I am glad I opted to follow the Echo Canyon Trail.  In an area called 'The Grottos' you get to hike in between massive hoodoos and rock formations. In some parts it feels cave-like and there's a noticeable temperature drop.  In sunny clefts between the rocks, scraggly apache pine and other vegetation manage to grow skyward.

We topped out near the Echo Canyon parking lot, but had to use a short connector to get back to Massai. I would estimate this to be a nine mile hike and always along well-maintained trails. Maybe we just spent a lot of time stopping to observe the scenery, because it took about six hours to complete.

Chiricahua Natural Bridge

Weather:  70º, sun and clouds

About this Hike:  After about five hours of driving we arrived at Chiricahua National Monument. Bonita Creek Campground will be home for the next couple of nights as we explore what may soon be Arizona's next national park. 

Since it was late in the day, I opted for a 'medium-duty' hike at the Natural Bridge Trail. There is a small parking area off the main road, but we had it to ourselves. Good thing too, because I recently acquired a small RV from Cruise America. Its a pre-production prototype of their new 'ultra-compact' model, and after they finished testing it, I picked it up for a good price. National park infrastructure is typically accommodating for those who use small RVs and vans as their primary exploration vehicle. 

The natural bridge hike starts in a riparian zone, climbs to high desert savanna, and then drops into another riparian area complete with apache pines, wildflower meadows, trickling streams, and plenty of mosquitos. 

The water and mosquitos are thanks to all the monsoon activity Arizona has enjoyed this summer. It also means that while these trails are well-maintained, there is some tall grass encroachment. Post-hike I did a thorough tick check even though I was wearing long pants. 

After just over two miles of hiking, the namesake natural bridge came into view. You can't get really close to it. A sign denotes the end of the trail at a viewpoint. I'd suggest binoculars and/or a zoom lens. 

This was a good inaugural hike to kick off our Chiricahua exploration. 

Babe Haught to Knoll Lake

Weather:  77º, sun and clouds

About this Hike:  One year ago today I first explored Babe Haught Trail to Knoll Lake. Looking for something to do today, and remembering this to be an enjoyable hike, I opted to try it again. 

The parking lot was the fullest I've ever seen it at the Hatchery Trailhead. This may be spurred by the closure of Horton Creek parking lot for on-going construction. 

While I saw a few other hikers today, I wouldn't call the trail crowded by any means. But then, with multiple spurs of Highline Trail branching from the same parking area, surely not all hikers were on Babe Haught. 

For some reason I enjoyed this hike a lot more last year. It wasn't bad by any means this year, yet it just felt different. Maybe it was the fact that it was still uncomfortably hot today. Maybe all the orange ponderosa pines were getting to me too...

I can't tell if the ponderosas are dying or experiencing intense seasonal needle drop. Most of them still have plenty of green, punctuated by some clumps of orange. Photos taken and analyzed by AI tell me its just seasonal needle drop. But then with the beetle outbreak in recent years, I never know what to believe. 

Knoll Lake is still low when you compare the bathtub ring to its current state of fill. However, with a good monsoon this summer, it is higher than a year ago. In fact, there wasn't much lake bottom to walk along. Even if it was just a few inches of murky water, the lake level is definitely higher. Hopefully El Nino brings us some solid snowpack this winter and fills up the rim lakes. 

Sand Rock Canyon / Fossil Creek Canyon Rim

Weather:  81º, sunny, muggy, hot

About this Hike:  I discovered this hike on All Trails. It looked to follow old dirt two-track roads through the savanna and to an overlook above the Fossil Creek Wilderness area. The hike begins at FR-9D which parallels a high tension powerline. There is a distinct change here—the ponderosa pines of the Mogollon Rim end and the grasslands begin. High desert savanna spotted with junipers and occasional pinion pines  was the scenery for the entire hike, save for a small creek that had ponderosas growing along it. At least the grasses were relatively green. Muddy spots along the trail and even some standing puddles attest to the amount of rain this area has gotten in 2026's active monsoon.

The trail eventually diverges away from FR-9D and onto FR-9K at a large cattle tank. The tank was full and the water looked clean (by cattle tank standards). I was glad to move away from the overhead powerlines. I experienced a strange phenomenon while underneath them. My hand slipped off the rubber grip of my aluminum hiking pole. Upon contacting the metal, I experienced a small electric shock in my right hand. While not serious, it was more than a little static zap, enough so that I instinctively threw my hiking pole. There was no obvious injury to my hand, and so I theorized the powerlines had something to do with it. Some internet research when I got home confirmed my theory. 

This hike was difficult to follow. I wasted considerable time backtracking and trying to find the All Trails  GPS track. In the tall grass it was to no avail. The best way to do this is simply to follow the defined two-track. Eventually the two track rejoined the All Trails GPS track. The road forked again, and I went left, once again diverging the GPS track. This proved to be a good choice. This route led to a faint, but navigable, footpath and right to the edge of the canyon. 

I took some time to appreciate the views into Fossil Creek Wilderness. As this canyon runs toward the Verde Valley, Sedona-esque red sandstone is prominent in the canyon walls. I was saddened to see a lot of orange pine trees on the upper ridges of the canyon. This is testament to a pine beetle outbreak that I hope is nearing its end. The inner canyon looked lush and beautiful, although the creek was not visible. 

I hiked back to the fork and tried to follow the All Trails GPS track. It appeared to go on close to another mile, ending on a narrow peninsula. This proved to be to no avail. The two-track ran out. While a narrow peninsula on the map, when you're standing on it, it is a sea of grass and junipers. It would've been easy to get lost, and I was not plowing through all that grass. I found one viewpoint to the side, and it didn't seem to offer anything that the first good viewpoint offered. I could see the end of the peninsula from here, but I wasn't willing to go on any further. 

I hiked out the way I came in. Without backtracking and getting confused, it only took a little over an hour to get back my parking spot on FR-677 just off of AZ-260. 

This was a hot, unpleasant hike. The viewpoint was enjoyable, but honestly, I'd rather be hiking down in Fossil Creek Canyon (an area I've yet to explore). 

Rim Run and Box Canyon

Weather:  78º, cloudy, muggy

About this Hike:  My original plan was to explore the network of trails that originate at the Canyon Point Campground near Forest Lakes. However, I was stopped at the guard shack. There is a $10 day-use fee. I opted to continue down 260 turning at Merzville Rd. 

From Merzville Road I could access something called Rim Run Trail, which looked to be a viable alternate. In fact this ended up being a great choice.

I drove in to where Merzville junctions with Hillcrest Road and parked . The road was getting a little sketchy and there were plenty of good clearings to park in. I imagine this would make for some good dispersed camping, especially if one is looking to avoid the fees at Canyon Point. 

My hike entailed following Merzville Road to where it ends at a vast overlook on the edge of the Mogollon Rim. Parking where I did was a good call. The road only degraded more, and there was a lot of standing water and smelly mud. I often paralleled the road, hiking on the thick bed of pine needles that make up the forest floor. The forest back here is thick, healthy ponderosa. It was very peaceful and enjoyable to hike through.

Near the end, the road becomes more like rock steps. Ending at the rim's edge, I could see the nearby peninsula viewpoint that is accessed from the campground. This was further confirmation that I missed out on nothing (and saved $10) by doing the hike via Merzville Road. I could also see a fish hatchery and some buildings in the lush, green valley below. 

There is an American flag planted at the edge of the rim viewpoint. Judging from its lack of tatters and relatively vibrant color, I would say this is a new addition. 

On the hike out I followed a side trail down a decommissioned road to what looked like another viewpoint. It did lead to a viewpoint, but it was rocky, brushy, and the views weren't great. 

Being that it was early afternoon, I debated whether I wanted to link up with the network of trails that branch from the campground, or go do something else. The campground trails have silly names like 'Dare Me' and 'Wedding Day.' This makes me think they're geared more toward mountain bikers. The whole network is close to 260, meaning constant road noise. 

I figured if I wanted the above unpleasantries, I might go try something else. I started heading back toward Payson, stopping at the Box Canyon Trail just off 260. While the map indicated walking directly parallel to the busy highway, I opted to follow a utility line that also paralleled the road. This kept me a little further out of traffic and ultimately led to a side trail. This side trail had cairns and looked to descend into the box canyon. Unfortunately, it was extremely steep and eventually had a sheer drop off. I took a photo of two pretty waterfalls deep in the canyon and then turned back. 

Finding the correct trail, I paralleled 260 and then joined the official Box Canyon Trail. It was much easier to descend, and soon I was at the waters of Christopher Creek, surrounded by magnificent purple-red cliffs. 

I hiked up to a viewpoint and got some photos of a waterfall spilling into a pool below. I also had noticed a grassy meadow when I first reached the water's edge. I went through an open horse gate and followed a path through the meadow. The creek changed dramatically, becoming a marshy remnant. The canyon walls vanished and deciduous trees surrounded me. I arrived at an equestrian enclosure with a large building. Turns out I had trespassed onto a private retreat / camp. Upon arriving back at the water, I saw the bleached, bullet-hole filled 'No Trespassing' sign. 

While not overly spectacular hikes, I was glad to get out and enjoy some simple pleasures here in Rim Country this Labor Day. 

Continuing Passage 30 - Up on Anderson Mesa

Weather:  78º, clouds and sun

About this Hike:  Last Saturday's hike on the Mormon Lake side of Arizona Trail (AZT) Passage 30 was so enjoyable that we opted to continue it. Picking up at Horse Lake Trailhead, we were now on the other side of Lake Mary Road. Judging from the map, I expected some views of Lake Mary and hoped for dense ponderosa pine forest.

There ended up being a stark difference between this section of Passage 30 compared to what we hiked on last weekend. The dense ponderosa forest was gone. Atop Anderson Mesa is a lot of savannah grassland. Ponderosa pines are mixed in, but they are far less dense and are accompanied by more juniper and occasional pinon pine. Despite recent rains, many of the meadows looked absolutely parched and featured dried out grasses. Namesake Horse Lake was just a dry meadow. 

The AZT in this section follows old ATV roads. They are rutted and tore up in places, and of course you always have to be listening to the drone of an approaching ATV or side-by-side. Its not a great hiking surface and my feet and back get tired and sore when hiking along old roadways. There are also a lot of unauthorized roads, making careful route following important. The AZT has surprisingly few markers at some of these confusing junctions. 

While the trail lended to a few good views of Humphrey's and Mormon Mountain, the views were never spectacular. Maybe there would have been a viewpoint of Lake Mary if we continued another half mile or so. We opted to turn around about a half mile before the connector trail into Lakeview Campground.

It is always nice to be in the outdoors. However, today's hike was quite lackluster compared our hike just across the street a week ago, testament to the many microclimates that make up Arizona. 

AZT Passage 30 - Anderson Mesa

Weather:  78º, clouds, thunder, light rain

About this Hike:  Today's hike explored part of Passage 30 of the Arizona Trail. I admit I didn't have high expectations. I thought it would rocky savannah punctuated by some ponderosa pines and gamble oak. I was very wrong in all the right ways...

The hike started at a site I'm very familiar with—the trailhead parking lot just outside Dairy Springs Campground. We've used this parking lot numerous times to climb Mormon Mountain. After a hike to the back of the campground, we reached the trailhead and then the junction shortly afterward. Instead of the usual climb up, we turned right to follow the AZT. 

Initially it wasn't the most scenic. The ponderosas are suffering either seasonal needle drop or pine beetle damage; I can't be certain. All I know is there's a lot of orange in a forest that looks like its already been heavily cleared. A few blue spruces punctuate the landscape and provide a reminder that some healthy trees remain. As the hike wraps around the base of Mormon Mountain, the timber scenery doesn't get better. It looks like there's been a lot of pine beetle kill on the flanks of the mountain. 

Bad news out of the way, the forest does eventually improve. Healthy stands of ponderosa pine return, with a random spruce or fir in the conifer mix. The hike transitions between grassy meadows and denser stands of ponderosa. There are occasional viewpoints into the grasslands and meadows around the Mormon Lake Volcanic Field. 

Another interesting facet of Passage 30 is that it is a 'Rails-to-Trails' project of sorts. Much of the trail follows old railroad bed, and the USFS has placed a sign explaining this in more detail. Large walls of volcanic rock and decades old rotted railroad ties provide further evidence of a bygone train track. 

Our turnaround point was approximately six miles in at a wildflower filled meadow with view of the San Francisco Peaks. We were not far from the Pinegrove Campground, making for an easy waypoint should we decide to continue Passage 30 one day. 

The weather today was pleasant with thunder and light rain at the start of our hike. Once this blew past the sun came out briefly, but then clouds returned.  The light rain and clouds made for cooler, pleasant hiking conditions. 

Today's hike ended up being way better than I expected. I'm now planning a return hike in the near future to continue Passage 30 from the Horse Lake Trailhead.