Back to Barnhardt Six Years Later

Weather:  55°, sunny

About this Hike:  Six years ago we came and explored Barnhardt Trail 44 for the first time. After January 2018 hike we stayed up in Payson and commented on what a dumpy town it seemed to be. Ironically enough, Payson is now home (and it's actually a pretty nice place). Barnhardt Trail is just a 20 mile drive from home, and after exploring Rock Creek and numerous other area trails this past fall, I decided it was time to get back to Barnhardt. For one, Barnhardt is well-maintained and showcases some of the Mazatzal's best geology, plant life, and scenery. Other area trails are often extremely steep, overgrown, and just not as scenic. 

With multiple days of rain earlier this week (snow in the higher elevations), and now a warm up, I knew today would be perfect conditions to visit Barnhardt again. The creek and waterfall were sure to be flowing. In fact, they did not disappoint. 

In 2018 the waterways were but a trickle. I even noted back then a large, black rock wall that I assumed would be a waterfall in wetter conditions. I called it a 'false' waterfall. While not a rushing cascade, it was a beautiful, vertical stream today. Shortly beyond this is the main attraction:  the Barnhardt waterfall. I noted in 2018 a rope one could use to climb the waterfall. That rope appears to be gone as of 2024.

The water was rushing out of the fissure in the rock, cascading down the red-purple quartzite, and collecting in blue-grey pools. While a strong flow, there were plenty of large boulders and shallow parts for hiking across. I was able to get up close to the waterfall. In the rock grotto above the main falls is another cascade that works its way down the curving chute. It was stunningly beautiful.

Beyond the falls the trail climbs and scenery gives way to what I believe is about a 20-year old burn scar. The area has long been reclaimed by manzanita and gamble oak. A charred stump here and there reminds you that this may have been forested at one time. And that's where I opted to turn around. Wrinkly emerald hills and ridges cover the landscape, beckoning you to keep hiking around the next bend. However, the manzanita forest gets boring quickly. I came to enjoy Barnhardt Canyon today, and so I turned back. 

Hiking back through the canyon was a whole different experience. You're seeing things from a different perspective. The light has shifted and is different now on the canyon walls. The creek was flowing strong deep in the canyon below. The rock formations and zig-zags in the canyon wall make for unique and stunning geology. 

I've said Barnhardt is some of the best the Mazatzals have to offer. Today's hike just reinforced this notion.

Secret Canyon Return - Four Years Later

Weather:  43º, sunny

About this Hike:  I can't believe it was four years ago that I hiked Secret Canyon in January. I mapped this hike out to begin at the Chuckwagon Trailhead which has paved road access. Even with an off-road truck I'm not about to try FR-152. 

One of the highlights of that hike four years ago was discovering a beautiful waterfall in a narrow, red canyon near the junction of Secret Canyon and David Miller trails. With recent snowpack beginning to melt a bit, I thought today might be another waterfall opportunity. 

We parked at Chuckwagon and did the 2.6 mile hike in via Chuckwagon and then along FR-152. Chuckwagon is pretty. FR-152 not so much. The road is currently closed due to poor conditions, but the barricades wouldn't be difficult to move. Recent tire marks in the road indicate this has likely occurred. 

The trail was covered by some snow, although crampons / snowshoes were not required. Exposed patches were often muddy, but it wasn't too difficult to navigate. Recent footprints indicate we weren't the only hikers trying a midwinter exploration along Secret Canyon. 

The area near the aforementioned waterfall is where this trail gets good. Ponderosa pine forest sprouts up, and the creek is bounded by smooth, curvy red rock walls. Today this area was a winter wonderland. Snow caked the trees and shrubs. The creek was solid ice, so therefore the waterfall was not flowing. 

I found a good marker for the waterfall. A woodpecker was going to town on a large ponderosa shortly before the David Miller junction. The tree has a ring of perfect round holes, and the snow around the base was stained with sawdust. Just look for the pecked-up ponderosa and the waterfall overlook is a few steps beyond. 

Four years ago I thought the trail ended at the curvy red cliffs. Back then I didn't use hiking GPS. Today, looking at both my GPS and the footprints in the snow, I realized you're just getting into Secret Canyon. Unfortunately my hiking partner's boots had filled with water, so we needed to turn back. Plus, the sun was sinking behind the mountains and the temperature was dropping fast. 

In a different season I'm thinking about coming back. And if not Secret Canyon, I also want to explore neighboring Bear Sign Trail. Secret Mountain Wilderness has long intrigued me. Here's hoping it's sooner than four years before I'm back here again.

Wintry West Fork

Weather:  ~40° and sunny

About this Hike:  Years ago I visited the Sedona tourist trap known as West Fork. Back then there was a 20 minute wait in line followed by a $9 parking fee.

Being as COVID made everyone an outdoorsman and Sedona has become even more overrun with tourists, I never planned to visit West Fork again.

That changed after I drove by it on the way up to Flagstaff for some snowshoeing yesterday. In fact, West Fork was closed, but people were parked outside the gate.

I decided to head up to West Fork today, snowshoeing gear loaded in the truck. I had no idea what to expect. In fact, I had no expectations at all, just an open mind. Upon arrival the parking lot was plowed and the gates open. The guard shack was staffed, meaning I had to pay the now $12 parking fee. But unlike most any other season, there were only a few cars in the parking lot and open spaces were plentiful. Several inches of fresh powder covered the ground, rivaling what I experienced up in Flag yesterday.

I strapped on my snowshoes and ventured out. As I passed through the ruins of the old buildings and across the wooden footbridge, I began to realize I got way more than I expected. Red rock cliffs soared up thousands of feet. The forest looked enchanted with snow clinging to the ponderosas and firs that grow in this lush canyon. The crossings over Oak Creek were never too difficult, thanks to surprisingly thick ice sheeting. Still, I used abundant caution, tapping the ice with my snowshoe poles and determining alternate routes if the ice cracked or appeared weak. Thankfully my efforts paid off and I never got a ‘hot’ foot in Oak Creek.

Enjoying the solitude and scenery around me, I pushed to complete the West Fork trail—a goal that I eventually met. A sign at the end advises the maintained trail is done. Brave hikers can continue down the canyon, although a narrow, deep pool awaits as the creek now becomes one with the trail. I pushed on just a little further past the sign. I wanted to see this pool. It wasn’t far ahead. In fact the sun hitting the steep red cliffs made the ice glow pink. It was a fitting end.

I turned around and hiked out the way I came. My feet were soaked. Snow finds its way into boots no matter what you do. Gratefully my feet never got cold, just very wet. I knew I had to hustle, as the sun was behind the canyon walls by 3PM. The sun had been warm in the canyon and the beautiful power I snowshoed across this morning was now heavy, wet snow. It was sticking to my crampons and making my snowshoes very heavy…along with my soaked socks.  

As the fence line, footbridge, and ruins came into view, I was ready to wrap it up for the day. However, I thoroughly enjoyed the scenery and serenity a wintertime hike along the 6.5 mile West Fork trail offers. I never thought I’d explore West Fork again, much less have it almost to myself (minus a few other brave hikers). I got my $12 worth, for sure.

Spanish Ruins via Doll Baby

Weather:  65°, mostly sunny

About this Hike:  I originally read about the hike up to Spanish Ruins via Doll Baby Trail last January. After looking at a home for sale in Payson, we set out to visit Doll Baby, but the dirt road was extremely muddy and rutted. We opted to turn around and went to Peach Orchard Trail that day instead. My intention was to return to Doll Baby in a drier season.

Now Payson is home, and with unseasonable warmth and dryness, I decided it was time to give Doll Baby another shot. 

The road was dry, save for where water always trickles across the road near the sewer treatment plant. I don't know if I want to know the reason why there seems to be a perennial stream in this area...

What's really intriguing about this hike is the drive to get there. The road goes from dirt, to good paved road, and then back to dirt again. There are also utility boxes for electric and fire hydrants. Why is there so much developed infrastructure along a forest road? My best guess is that it serves the ranches in the area. 

Finally we reached the Doll Baby TH and parked. We had it all to ourselves. I've read this is a boring hike. I'd have to beg to differ. There's very intriguing geology in this area. Red and purple Mazatzal quartzite is scattered on the ground. I was admiring a Sedona-esque red rock cliff face that loomed just above the hiking trail. The hike at this point involves climbing a steep hill on an old road. 

Upon passing a large metal gate, an immediate left turn reveals the side trail up on top of that same red-rock cliff face. The side trail can be confusing. People have set up cairns, but I believe more than one route has been traversed. It involved a lot of off-trail trial and error. The red cliff facings form the edge of a mesa, and once we'd hiked and scrambled a bit, we were on top. The search for the ruins site had commenced. 

We got off trail quite a few more times. Hiking GPS definitely helped to re-orient us, especially after following a few oddly placed cairns. 

Eventually we got to the ruins site. It is much bigger than I anticipated. I wonder how whoever created this structure found so many relatively flat red stones to build these walls out of. There is no mortar between the stones and they have fallen in a few places. However, the walls are surprisingly sturdy. I imagine whoever built this used it as a lookout on the Verde River valley far below. 

And that brings up another point I wish to mention. The Verde River is lined with sycamores and cottonwoods. I want to revisit this area in the fall. I imagine the color is fantastic. 

After hanging out at the ruins for a while, we hiked back to Doll Baby TH and did a quick side trip over to the Verde River. Being as this is right in Payson's backyard, I look forward to exploring more of this area in the future. 

North Peak 24

Weather:  57°, mostly sunny

About this Hike:  With 2,800+ feet of elevation gain, a hike up North Peak Trail sounded like the perfect end to a four-day Thanksgiving weekend filled with feasting. 

The trailhead is on FR 414-A, which is a turn off from FR-414. I'm glad I studied the map carefully and was aware of this. The parking area is just a "lollipop" road, but I had it all to myself. 

The trail starts in a riparian area along Mineral Creek. Had I visited a week or two earlier, I would've been treated to some nice fall color among the sycamores, cottonwoods, and (what I assume to be) sumac. A few colored leaves were still hanging on, but the peak color has certainly passed for this year.

Most of the 2,800 feet of elevation gain come at you fast. The climb is steep. Remember that what goes up has to come down... But as you ascend the views keep getting better. Look up for some cool Mazatzal quartzite formations and look down for views into the canyon made up by the lower reaches of the trail's namesake North Peak. 

As I climbed higher the views just got better and better. Today was a rare clear day in Arizona. The snow-capped Humphrey's Peak up near Flagstaff eventually came into view. 

While the hike is seldom completely flat, the brutal elevation gain eventually settles down into more of a "roller coaster." There's climbs up hills and then drops into ravines. This is the best part of the hike, in my opinion.  The scenery is typical of the Mazatzals with wrinkly green mountains in the distance, stunning rock formations, and distant canyons. One thing lacking on this hike is old-growth forest. I  believe much of it may have burned around 20 years ago. Some areas are showing signs of recovery, but the massive old ponderosas are sparse. Enjoy the few brief stands of them that remain. 

I didn't quite finish North Peak Trail. It ends at Mazatzal Divide Trail, and I opted to turn back with just about a mile to go. The air was getting chilly and I knew the hike down was going to be treacherous. 

The typical Mazatzal ecosystem and the stunning views are what make this hike worth it. Whether or not I'll be back is TBD. Now that Payson is home, there are still so many other trails around here I look forward to exploring. 

Rock Creek 42

Weather:  70°, sunny

About this Hike:  Rock Creek Trail 42 sounded intriguing. This hike thru the Mazatzals was supposed to take you by a waterfall before the trail ends at Mazatzal Divide Trail. 

I drove to the trailhead via forest roads accessed from Rye just off AZ-87. In theory you could follow this same FR-414 down from Payson. While I'm sure it's a beautiful drive, I prefer to limit my time off the pavement. 

The drive in was OK, save for the two final creek crossings which featured large boulders and were  uncomfortable. My Tacoma made it thru unscathed. 

A well-marked 'TH42' sign indicates the start of Rock Creek Trail. Initially the hike follows the creek, and I honestly think this is some of the best part of the hike. The sycamores lining the creekbed were in full orange array of fall color, and the few cottonwoods were just beginning to turn yellow. The creekbed is a rainbow of boulders grey, grey-blue, and red-purple. 

The 2,000+ feet of elevation gain comes at you quickly and steeply on this well-maintained trail. As I reached the red-purple Mazatzal quartzite ridges, that began to change. Manzanita overgrowth began to pose more of a challenge. While the trail was still visible and the bushwhacking not impassable, it was annoying. Sometimes I was sidestepping manzanita while trying to avoid impalement by the spiky yuccas near the trail. 

I reached the rock formations and came to a perfect rock bench in the shade. There were beautiful views down to Highway 87, the Mogollon Rim, and the eastern Mazatzals. Beyond this, the trail had a sheer drop off. As in, get your ankle caught in some overgrowth and you very well may fall to your death. I have an extreme fear of heights and seeing this ledge caused me a panic attack. I opted to sit on the rock bench, eat lunch, and contemplate my next move. I was sick of bushwhacking, and honestly the map indicated the trail was going to be more of the same the rest of the way to the waterfall—steep, sheer drops, and likely overgrown. 

As I've found myself doing more and more lately, I made the tough decision to turn back, not having reached my goal at the waterfall. By the way, the waterfall was sure to be dry, but I still wanted to see those cool rock formations that water spills over when the creeks are flowing. 

The hike down was uneventful, although I was very cautious considering the steepness of the trail. The Mazatzals have a lot to offer in terms of rock formations and cool high-desert-to-forest scenery. There are better options than Rock Creek 42 in my opinion...

Halloweekend Tradition Lives On

Weather:  81°, sunny, hot

About this Hike:  Haunted Canyon has been a Halloween-time tradition for a fourth year in a row now. My pattern is to alternate each year between the lower trailhead and the upper trailhead. This meant that 2023 was the year to visit from the steeper, tougher upper trailhead. My last visit here was in 2021.

I can't say much has changed in two years. The drive up is a little sketchy but not unbearable by any means. In past years I've done this in October. I opted to try it a little later this year to enjoy the brilliant yellow fall color of the sycamores that line creekbeds in this ecosystem. 

There is a segment of this trail that was full of overgrowth and bushwhacking. Despite getting some maintenance this spring, the bushes are growing back. While not impassable by any means, the bushwhack is annoying. I brought my clippers and did some trimming to try and make it a little less annoying. 

I saw plenty of friendly deer—some a little too friendly. Are other hikers feeding them? I also saw plenty of bear evidence, but thankfully no bears. 

The creeks are bone dry this year, although the several spring heads along this hike were dripping. Otherwise I had the parking area, the trail, and the canyon to myself. I never saw another vehicle or hiker on this exceptionally warm fall day.