Rim Run and Box Canyon

Weather:  78º, cloudy, muggy

About this Hike:  My original plan was to explore the network of trails that originate at the Canyon Point Campground near Forest Lakes. However, I was stopped at the guard shack. There is a $10 day-use fee. I opted to continue down 260 turning at Merzville Rd. 

From Merzville Road I could access something called Rim Run Trail, which looked to be a viable alternate. In fact this ended up being a great choice.

I drove in to where Merzville junctions with Hillcrest Road and parked . The road was getting a little sketchy and there were plenty of good clearings to park in. I imagine this would make for some good dispersed camping, especially if one is looking to avoid the fees at Canyon Point. 

My hike entailed following Merzville Road to where it ends at a vast overlook on the edge of the Mogollon Rim. Parking where I did was a good call. The road only degraded more, and there was a lot of standing water and smelly mud. I often paralleled the road, hiking on the thick bed of pine needles that make up the forest floor. The forest back here is thick, healthy ponderosa. It was very peaceful and enjoyable to hike through.

Near the end, the road becomes more like rock steps. Ending at the rim's edge, I could see the nearby peninsula viewpoint that is accessed from the campground. This was further confirmation that I missed out on nothing (and saved $10) by doing the hike via Merzville Road. I could also see a fish hatchery and some buildings in the lush, green valley below. 

There is an American flag planted at the edge of the rim viewpoint. Judging from its lack of tatters and relatively vibrant color, I would say this is a new addition. 

On the hike out I followed a side trail down a decommissioned road to what looked like another viewpoint. It did lead to a viewpoint, but it was rocky, brushy, and the views weren't great. 

Being that it was early afternoon, I debated whether I wanted to link up with the network of trails that branch from the campground, or go do something else. The campground trails have silly names like 'Dare Me' and 'Wedding Day.' This makes me think they're geared more toward mountain bikers. The whole network is close to 260, meaning constant road noise. 

I figured if I wanted the above unpleasantries, I might go try something else. I started heading back toward Payson, stopping at the Box Canyon Trail just off 260. While the map indicated walking directly parallel to the busy highway, I opted to follow a utility line that also paralleled the road. This kept me a little further out of traffic and ultimately led to a side trail. This side trail had cairns and looked to descend into the box canyon. Unfortunately, it was extremely steep and eventually had a sheer drop off. I took a photo of two pretty waterfalls deep in the canyon and then turned back. 

Finding the correct trail, I paralleled 260 and then joined the official Box Canyon Trail. It was much easier to descend, and soon I was at the waters of Christopher Creek, surrounded by magnificent purple-red cliffs. 

I hiked up to a viewpoint and got some photos of a waterfall spilling into a pool below. I also had noticed a grassy meadow when I first reached the water's edge. I went through an open horse gate and followed a path through the meadow. The creek changed dramatically, becoming a marshy remnant. The canyon walls vanished and deciduous trees surrounded me. I arrived at an equestrian enclosure with a large building. Turns out I had trespassed onto a private retreat / camp. Upon arriving back at the water, I saw the bleached, bullet-hole filled 'No Trespassing' sign. 

While not overly spectacular hikes, I was glad to get out and enjoy some simple pleasures here in Rim Country this Labor Day. 

Continuing Passage 30 - Up on Anderson Mesa

Weather:  78º, clouds and sun

About this Hike:  Last Saturday's hike on the Mormon Lake side of Arizona Trail (AZT) Passage 30 was so enjoyable that we opted to continue it. Picking up at Horse Lake Trailhead, we were now on the other side of Lake Mary Road. Judging from the map, I expected some views of Lake Mary and hoped for dense ponderosa pine forest.

There ended up being a stark difference between this section of Passage 30 compared to what we hiked on last weekend. The dense ponderosa forest was gone. Atop Anderson Mesa is a lot of savannah grassland. Ponderosa pines are mixed in, but they are far less dense and are accompanied by more juniper and occasional pinon pine. Despite recent rains, many of the meadows looked absolutely parched and featured dried out grasses. Namesake Horse Lake was just a dry meadow. 

The AZT in this section follows old ATV roads. They are rutted and tore up in places, and of course you always have to be listening to the drone of an approaching ATV or side-by-side. Its not a great hiking surface and my feet and back get tired and sore when hiking along old roadways. There are also a lot of unauthorized roads, making careful route following important. The AZT has surprisingly few markers at some of these confusing junctions. 

While the trail lended to a few good views of Humphrey's and Mormon Mountain, the views were never spectacular. Maybe there would have been a viewpoint of Lake Mary if we continued another half mile or so. We opted to turn around about a half mile before the connector trail into Lakeview Campground.

It is always nice to be in the outdoors. However, today's hike was quite lackluster compared our hike just across the street a week ago, testament to the many microclimates that make up Arizona. 

AZT Passage 30 - Anderson Mesa

Weather:  78º, clouds, thunder, light rain

About this Hike:  Today's hike explored part of Passage 30 of the Arizona Trail. I admit I didn't have high expectations. I thought it would rocky savannah punctuated by some ponderosa pines and gamble oak. I was very wrong in all the right ways...

The hike started at a site I'm very familiar with—the trailhead parking lot just outside Dairy Springs Campground. We've used this parking lot numerous times to climb Mormon Mountain. After a hike to the back of the campground, we reached the trailhead and then the junction shortly afterward. Instead of the usual climb up, we turned right to follow the AZT. 

Initially it wasn't the most scenic. The ponderosas are suffering either seasonal needle drop or pine beetle damage; I can't be certain. All I know is there's a lot of orange in a forest that looks like its already been heavily cleared. A few blue spruces punctuate the landscape and provide a reminder that some healthy trees remain. As the hike wraps around the base of Mormon Mountain, the timber scenery doesn't get better. It looks like there's been a lot of pine beetle kill on the flanks of the mountain. 

Bad news out of the way, the forest does eventually improve. Healthy stands of ponderosa pine return, with a random spruce or fir in the conifer mix. The hike transitions between grassy meadows and denser stands of ponderosa. There are occasional viewpoints into the grasslands and meadows around the Mormon Lake Volcanic Field. 

Another interesting facet of Passage 30 is that it is a 'Rails-to-Trails' project of sorts. Much of the trail follows old railroad bed, and the USFS has placed a sign explaining this in more detail. Large walls of volcanic rock and decades old rotted railroad ties provide further evidence of a bygone train track. 

Our turnaround point was approximately six miles in at a wildflower filled meadow with view of the San Francisco Peaks. We were not far from the Pinegrove Campground, making for an easy waypoint should we decide to continue Passage 30 one day. 

The weather today was pleasant with thunder and light rain at the start of our hike. Once this blew past the sun came out briefly, but then clouds returned.  The light rain and clouds made for cooler, pleasant hiking conditions. 

Today's hike ended up being way better than I expected. I'm now planning a return hike in the near future to continue Passage 30 from the Horse Lake Trailhead. 

Great Basin Day Three - Lexington Arch & Lehman Creek

Weather:  80º, sunny

About this Hike:  Today would've been the day to re-do Wheeler Peak. The weather was perfect. I mulled it over in my mind, but decided I wanted to see more of Great Basin's back country. I opted to head south of the main park and down to the Lexington Arch.

A 10.5 mile dirt road drive takes you to the arch. While much of this falls under Bureau of Land  Management initially, the National Park Service has placed signage to make the drive in easier. The hiking trail eventually re-enters the park boundary. The dirt road is mostly hard pack, but it gets very narrow for the final few miles. It also has a lot of vegetation encroachment during these final miles. While the island of vegetation between the two-track gives one fear of a catalytic-converter ignited fire, the vegetation to the sides will most certainly pin stripe most vehicles. That all said, on a dry day like today, four-wheel drive is not necessary. 

Despite the lacking road conditions, this trail is very well maintained. Water crossings are bridged, while signage and markers help lead the way. The scenery is not great. A fire went thru this area some time ago. While the grasses and annoying vegetation have long recovered, silver toothpicks are reminders of forest lost long ago. 

The Lexington Arch was an awesome sight to behold and made up for the lackluster hike to it. There is a bench that looks up at the arch, but the trail continues past the bench. I read its well worth it to pass the bench, keep hiking, and end up underneath the arch. Judging from the topography at the front of the arch, I expected this was going to be a treacherous scramble up to the arch. In fact, the well-maintained trail traverses behind the arch and climbs it with a few switchbacks. It's much more accessible on the back side. I enjoyed cool breezes, a snack, and Great Basin views from under the arch. 

Following my backcountry adventure, I headed back into the main part of the park to explore Lehman Creek. I thought seriously about giving Wheeler another go, even with a 5.5 mile hike already under my belt. Some cloud development near the summit made me think otherwise (it never stormed today). I stuck to the plan and explored Lehman Creek Trail.

What intrigued me about this trail is the fact that it goes from Upper Lehman Campground all the way to Wheeler Peak Campground in just 3.6 miles. This is probably about a 10 mile drive up the winding mountain road to the top. 

This hike started in desert grassland and mulberry. It was hot, uphill, and exposed. Eventually it paralleled Lehman Creek. Close proximity to the creek meant more trees and more shade. That is, until the trail ascended, taking a hard turn away from the creek and traversing a meadow. Here, scenic views of Wheeler Peak came into view. 

The upper reaches of Lehman Creek Trail definitely contained the best viewpoints, forest, and shade. The trail ends in the Wheeler Peak Campground where I took a break on a bench and watched campers setting up camp for the evening. 

And speaking of camping...I think that may be one of the best ways to experience this park. Several of the campgrounds--and especially Wheeler Peak CG--offer hike-out access. One day I hope to return and complete the Wheeler Summit. I hope to do it from my campsite at Wheeler Peak Campground (and maybe in a camper van that I'll own one day). Until then, the past few days have been a wonderful opportunity to experience and learn about Great Basin.

Great Basin Day Two - Wheeler Peak Area

Weather:  55º, clouds, wind

About this Hike:  I woke up early this morning, excited to summit Wheeler Peak. I imagined a battle for parking spaces at the Summit Trailhead. I also knew that this hike is best accomplished early, before late morning thunderstorm energy starts building.

Well prepared, I was at Summit Trailhead by 7:00am. There were about three other cars in an otherwise empty lot. Wheeler Peak was not visible, shroud in gray clouds. With some sun starting peak thru over the basin valley, I thought the fog would soon burn off. After all, the forecast said high chance for thunderstorms today, so heating would be necessary in order to get those storms poppin'. 

The Wheeler Summit hike started out in beautiful aspen and conifer forest. Eventually, it went above timberline, surrounding me in a moonscape of jagged rocks. The fog hadn't lifted. In fact, it seemed heavier. And the wind was relentless. Other hikers warned me the wind was only going to get worse. 

With one mile and about 1,200 feet of elevation gain to go (meaning this was to be a vertical one mile), I made the tough call to turn back. It wasn't worth forcing it any further. The wind was treacherous and beginning to affect my balance. Even if I somehow made the summit, there would be no views to behold with the thick fog soup. 

It was now about 10:30am. What to do with the rest of this day? It was chilly and breezy, but much better conditions back at the trailhead. I moved the truck into the Bristlecone parking area and decided to do the six-mile loop hike that visits the bristlecone pine grove, passes two alpine lakes, and includes a spur to the glacier. 

While the lot was not full, this was a busy hike. The glacier trail gave me the best views of Wheeler Peak, only about 2,000 vertical feet above. In fact, for a brief time the fog lifted and I used my binoculars to try and see the summit. The fog quickly rolled back in, and a few rumbles of thunder were heard. It never ended up storming near the summit, although rain shafts were visible coming down on the distant basin valley. 

After looking at other's photos, I'm wondering if Wheeler Peak Summit is worth it? I'm sure it is, and I would love to sign the summit register and have the sense of accomplishing this. However, in terms of views, I'm not sure you'll see much more than is already visible at the myriad viewpoints and overlooks within Great Basin National Park. Honestly, the desert basin itself is not that becoming. 

I did enjoy the back half of my day. The six miles felt a lot longer. Maybe because I had expended quite a bit of energy on the failed summit attempt. Maybe because the spur to the glacier is a lot rockier and tougher than you'd expect. Regardless, I took my time and tried to read all the signage the NPS has placed in an effort to learn more about this unique place. 

I have one day left in Great Basin. I'm not so sure I'll re-attempt Wheeler, but we'll see what tomorrow brings.

Great Basin Day One - Timber Creek, Pole Canyon, & Osceola

Weather:  78º, sun, clouds, spotty showers

About this Hike:  Today starts my first of three days exploring Great Basin National Park in Nevada. Due to a cold front and subsequent thunderstorms in the area, I opted to keep today's hike in the lower elevations of the park. The cooler temps were a welcome relief, as I can't imagine doing these hikes with summer temps in the 90s. 

My first hike was South Timber Creek toward Johnson Lake. In fact, I reached a pass with a sign indicating 2.7 miles to Johnson Lake. Instead, I opted to close the loop early using Baker Meadows Trail. I did this because while 2.7 miles doesn't sound too far, the map indicated there was a lot of elevation to be gained and that it may go above timberline. With the threat of thunderstorms ever present, I decided not to venture too deep into the backcountry. I also assumed that Johnson Lake would be a puddle at best this time of year. 

After finishing the loop (and kicking myself a bit for not pushing on to Johnson Lake), I visited Pole Canyon Trail next. I enjoyed a relatively easy ascent thru riparian areas, bounded by stark gray canyon walls. Eventually I reached the upper reaches of this trail and more open meadows. The 360-degree views of mountains and the basin valley in the distance were impressive. This was early afternoon and the skies were starting to thunder. I turned around and hurried back to the Pole Canyon parking area, arriving back just before the storm blew in. It never amounted to much, and I spent some time exploring the Great Basin Visitor Center. 

With the threat of storms past, I decided on one more hike. It was going to be Lehman Creek Trail. Unfortunately my GPS had a different plan. After not notifying me of the turn, I was now on my way up the scenic parkway. This shelf road has limited turnarounds. My next chance to safely turnaround was at Osceola Ditch Trailhead, a trail I wanted to explore anyway. I decided to just hike Osceola instead since I was already at the trailhead. I hiked in a little over a mile to Mill Creek, traversing boulder fields and high desert terrain. The forest became much more lush around Mill Creek, which ended up being my turnaround point. The topography of the ditch, and much of the timber that supported this nineteenth-century mining aqueduct, are still in-tact. 

After Osceola, I was tired and it was dinner time. I'm glad to have explored the lower elevations of the park. Hopefully drier weather is in store the next couple days, because I want to spend more time up near Wheeler Peak. 

Buck Mountain Lookout

Weather:  88º, sun, occasional clouds

About this Hike:  I noticed the sign for Buck Mountain Lookout last weekend while driving up to Flagstaff. We decided to make a return visit today to check out this historic fire lookout. 

I wasn't sure how drivable FR-229 would be, but it ended up being an easy drive up to the last mile where we opted to park and begin the hike. The last spur of road up to the fire lookout is closed anyway, with a sign advising foot traffic only. 

For an historic lookout built in the 1930s, I was surprised to see a lot of modern infrastructure. I'm uncertain when this lookout officially closed. The AI answer I received was in the 1970s, but the signage and infrastructure look newer than that. While the cab is closed and boarded up, the stairs up to the tower are open. In fact, the wood decking of the tower looks surprisingly new. My research also indicated the tower underwent restoration in 2022. 

While obscured by vegetation, the views atop Buck Mountain were impressive. I especially enjoyed using my binoculars to find Apache Maid Mountain (and its fire lookout) along with Wet Beaver Wilderness. Despite their proximity, I was unable to see any of Sedona. 

During our lunch break, an Arizona Sister butterfly landed on my red hiking back. She put on quite a show, pumping her wings while using her proboscis to lap up whatever residue was on my pack. 

The day was hot, save for a few clouds and rumbles of distant thunder. We kept this hike relatively short and then headed back to Pine for beers at That Brewery.