Mt. Washburn via Dunraven

Weather:  77º, sun 

About this Hike:   This was my first hike in Yellowstone National Park. The plan was to climb Mt. Washburn to the fire lookout on top. 

The hike was along an old road which appeared to be decommissioned. I wondered how the park rangers  get up to the top to staff the tower. It turns out a newer road comes up the back side of the mountain. People were also hiking up the active service road.

The trail I took wound through wildflower-filled meadows and mountainous forest. Eventually it gave way to more tundra-like landscape. 

The fire lookout at the top was more substantive than just a simple cabin supported by four tall legs. This tower is set in concrete with multiple levels. The ground floor contained a visitor center with signs to read, a telescope, and restrooms. There are communications antenna and monitoring devices all over the tower. I had full cell service at the top. 

Point Sublime

Weather:  75º, sun 

About this Drive:  Normally this blog is about hikes. However, the scenic drive out to Point Sublime at the Grand Canyon North Rim has been on my bucket list.

I've done a lot of research on this drive. In the Grand Canyon National Park, a sign at the beginning of Point Sublime road offers a dire warning with words such as: unmaintained, hazardous, self-rescue, and blown down trees. 

I also learned there is another route to Point Sublime using forest roads on the Kaibab National Forest. This alternate route is a little longer, but said to be more scenic and better maintained. There's also supposed to be an historic fire lookout tower and cabin along the way. 

I opted to camp at DeMotte Campground which is right next door to where my journey would begin on FR-22. I had built a detailed map because this drive involves a lot of turns. Most roads on Kaibab Forest are pretty well signed. 

Starting early in the morning, the initial road was graded gravel and easy driving. I found a small electrical box (there's some utility infrastructure out there) and stopped to air down on the driveway to it. I knew the road was likely to deteriorate the further in I got. 

The road did narrow and got a little rougher, but nothing too unmanageable. Sawed-up trees on the roadside reminded me of the warning about trees falling. I did have a chainsaw and a handsaw in my off-road recovery kit, but I hoped not to need to use either of them. In fact I never did, testament to the wisdom of doing this drive pre-monsoon.

I never found the fire lookout or cabin. I assumed there would be a sign or some kind of marker.  Their mapped locations aren't the easiest to figure out either. 

Eventually I reached the gate marking the national park boundary. Beyond that was a junction. Here I made a mistake and went the wrong way. I probably was four miles down Swamp Ridge Road before I realized my error. I was not happy.

Agitated by the lost time, I turned around. Now going the correct way, I was on course to join Point Sublime Trail. At this point the road began to deteriorate significantly. The road became more rutted. While I had to back up and reevaluate my line once, I managed to navigate the ruts. 

The road was a little nerve wracking, but really not too bad. I arrived at the Point Sublime Campground. There were two unoccupied campsites each with a picnic table. Surprisingly there was also a restroom complete with solar-powered composting toilet. Inside, the restroom was clean and fully stocked. I was glad because the drive had wracked my nerves enough...well never mind. I was both grateful for and surprised by the fact there's a restroom in such a remote location. It makes me wonder, how was equipment brought out there to dig the pit and construct that restroom, and who maintains it?

Having parked at the campground, I hoofed it to the actual Point Sublime overlook. With nearly 360-degree canyon views, it is quite breathtaking. The Colorado River is even visible far below. 

After lunch and plenty of photos, I departed Point Sublime. Ominous as the park road sounded, I've read reviews of people doing the drive in an old VW camper van and a Ford Escape. How bad could it be? Surely my 4x4 Tacoma could handle this...

My 4x4 Tacoma performed just like it was engineered to. That said, it handled the road well. Its driver (yours truly) on the other hand did not handle it so well. The road has a lot of scary ruts and rocky sections. The hills are always the worst with ruts and other obstacles. In the final few miles the road opens up into scenic meadows, yet even these have ruts and sandy sections. 

The ruts really got to me because of the angles the truck would get on. It feels like I'm about to tip. I also know Tacomas can get on some gnarly angles, as Toyota loves to demonstrate at their overland events. I was probably over-reacting a bit. I don't off-road for the fun of it like many people do. I off-road for the beautiful destinations one can reach only by driving off the paved path.

Regardless, I survived Point Sublime Trail. The last couple miles aren't so bad as this segment seems to get a little maintenance. 

After driving both approaches to Point Sublime I can hands-down vouch for the Kaibab Forest route being the better choice. Regardless, drivers will have to navigate at least a few miles of the awful, rutted Point Sublime Trail. 

Another reason I picked this route? It ends at the Widforss Trailhead in the national park...

Horsethief Basin Lookout Loop

 Weather:  60°, sunny, clear

About this Hike:  Originally I mapped this hike following old OHV roads in Horsethief Basin.  My intention was to see the Native ruins at East Fort and South Fort.  Last minute I added on a side trip to the Horsethief Lookout Tower.  

February is low season for otherwise popular Horsethief Basin.  With unseasonably warm and dry weather, it seemed like the perfect time to visit.  The campgrounds and developed sites are closed for the season, so this meant a lot less traffic. In fact, I pretty much had Horsethief Basin to myself on a beautiful Saturday.

My first stop was at the lookout tower.  While unmanned for the season, a posted sign said it was OK to climb the tower.  I tried, but didn't get far.  Those see-thru metal grate steps are just too much for my fear of heights.  Regardless, the views at the lookout site are magnificent.  You can see Lake Pleasant, Glendale, and mountains in the Phoenix Valley.  You can see Superstition Mountain and Weaver's Needle.  Four Peaks and the Matazals are prominently visible.  Humphey's Peak poked up like a snow-capped glacier to the north.  And if you really looked close toward the southeast, you could see the top of the Santa Catalinas down in Tucson.  This was by far the most comprehensive view around Arizona I've ever experienced at one site.  The only landmark not visible up here was Sedona's red rocks. 

Both of the fort sites ended up being a bust.  Both areas have suffered heavy fire damage, especially East Fort.  The trail became impossible to follow, and it was not mapped correctly on my All  Trails GPS.  I was getting caught up in burned branches and other obstacles.  The fire was bad enough that soil was burned black.  It was a similar situation at the South Fort.  

Regardless, this was a good day to experience another unique and beautiful part of our state.  And while seeing the Hohokam ruins at the fort sites would have been cool, I doubt there would have been any additional views to take in.  From the fire lookout, I feel like I saw all that there was to see.  

AB Young Trail to East Pocket Fire Lookout - Sedona

Weather:  87º, sunny

About this Hike:  This one has been on my bucket list for a while.  I love hiking up to fire lookout towers.  

In the past when a ranger was manning the tower they'd often invite me up and show all their observation equipment.  Due to COVID that's no longer an option, and signs at the base of the tower warn you as much.  East Pocket Lookout appeared to be closed as the windows had heat-blocking sheets over them and no ranger vehicle was present. 

This hike begins by parking at Bootlegger Picnic Area off 89A.  Finding the trail is tricky as a number of trails go down to Oak Creek from the picnic area.  You just have to look around carefully as there are signs posted.  We went the wrong way at first but eventually found the treacherous creek crossing that kicks off this hike.

We managed to stay dry and successfully crossed Oak Creek on the shaky rock and log bridge previous hikers had built.  AB Young Trail begins in dense riparian pine forest.  It quickly gives way to exposed switchbacks that are a bit overgrown with grass and manzanita.  You might want long pants for this hike.  After an elevation gain of about 2,000 feet this hike begins to become rewarding.  The top of the mountain is flat mesa and ponderosa forest begins to appear.

The views looking into Oak Creek Canyon are like no other.  Highway 89A and even the Bootlegger parking area are tiny specks down below.  Humphrey's Peak is quite prominent to the northeast.  However, this flank of the mountain that points toward Humphrey's has suffered considerable burn damage. 

A walk along the flat top of the mountain eventually leads to the East Pocket Lookout.  You could theoretically skip the hike and drive up the forest road (I believe it's #231) to the lookout, but my guess is that the road is closed to public traffic.  

On the way down we spotted a lean-too built along a scenic part at the top of the mountain.  I imagine it would be magical to camp there and watch the sunset over Oak Creek Canyon and Sedona.  

Mt. Ord - Another One Off the Bucket List

Weather:  75º, sunny

Time:  ~90 minutes to the summit from junction with FR 1688

About this Hike:  Normally I wouldn't record my time for a hike like this, but I feel it was significant for reasons to be shared shortly...

First, let me say I never would have expected to be doing this hike in May.  The unseasonably 'cool' weather this spring has been a real treat.

Mt. Ord looms directly next to Highway 87 as one drives between Phoenix and Payson.  Many a trip to Rim Country has left me wanting to explore this 7,000 foot+ peak.  The communications towers and fire lookout are often directly visible from 87.  It's rare that you can see a mountain peak so clearly from its base.

It is nearly one year to the day that Mt. Ord's base charred by the Potatoe Fire.  For quite a time last summer Mt. Ord (and most AZ Federal lands) was closed.  Admittedly, I was nervous and was considering a backup should the gate at the base be closed and locked.  It was open upon arrival.

The road up Mt. Ord varies from rocky and rough to packed dirt.  It's narrow most of the way, and coordinating with on-coming vehicles (rare on this Memorial Sunday afternoon) can be a tricky dance.

I reset the trip odometer upon pulling off paved Highway 87 and onto Mt. Ord Rd.  The plan was to drive up about 3.5 miles, park in a turnaround, and hoof it up to the summit.  I made it 2.5 miles when I encountered the junction with un-maintained Forest Road 1688.  A grove of ponderosa and juniper made for a shaded parking spot and/or camping spot.  I backed the Xterra in and planned on an extra mile hike.  The bumpy road had gotten to me in just those short 2.5 miles (which doesn't say much; I have low tolerance for rough dirt roads).

If Google Maps is to be believed, it was almost 5 miles to the summit.  I didn't hike particularly fast.  Occasionally I had to hit the ditch when a vehicle choosing to drive to the summit went by in a cloud of dust.  I stopped often for pictures of the wildflowers, greenery, and breathtaking views.  Roosevelt Lake, Bartlett Lake, Horseshoe Reservoir, Verde River, and the Four Peaks are strikingly visible as you get higher on Mt. Ord.  Say nothing of the Mazatal Wilderness that surrounds you.  Yet I was closing in on the summit in just over an hour...I must have hiked fast.

The final push to the summit requires a hike for all but the authorized personnel that have the key to the gate.  There is a wide dirt area, and many a lifted Japanese truck was parked just before the gate.

There are multiple communications towers atop Mt. Ord.  One was labeled as Verizon Wireless, another as AT&T.  I had all bars and LTE service on this hike.

The Mt. Ord Fire Lookout is one of the biggest I've ever seen.  Wind was booming through it's steel girders like a jet engine.  A gate restricts access to the staircase, and a sign advises visitors to keep out.  This is unlike fire towers I've visited on other National Forest land, but it may be Tonto Forest's policy.  Regardless, with the wind, plus the height of that tower, I don't think my fear of heights would have let me climb it.  I was satisfied with the views at the base of the summit.

Returning to the car, it was only mid-afternoon.  I decided to explore FR-1688.  This narrow, rocky mess of a road is really more of a hiking trail.  It goes through some old, wooded ranch land, and works it's way up Little Mt. Ord.  The summit of big Mt. Ord is visible in clearings on this hike.  FR-1688 dead ends within 30-45 minute hike.  On the way back a guy was attempting to drive the road in a first-gen Hyundai Tucson that appeared to only have front-wheel drive.  He was at high risk of a tip over on the uneven road, and he was pin stripping the sides along the narrow road.  I felt bad for him for even attempting such a feat.

All in all, Mt. Ord was an awesome hike and another off the bucket list.

Mingus Mountain

Weather: 75º, sunny, breezy

About this Hike:  Earlier in September I blogged about my experiences in the Mt. Union Fire Lookout.  While the U.S. Forest Service Ranger in the tower rambled about his libertarian views (I mentioned he was quiet a character), I heard 'Mingus Mountain reporting' crackle over the two-way radio.  'What's Mingus Mountain?' I wondered.  Upon returning home I did some research.  Another Prescott trip was inspired.

Mingus lies between Prescott Valley and Jerome.  It's an easy drive up from Phoenix on paved, two-lane highway nearly the entire trip.  As you approach Mingus you traverse some ugly golden grassland that I can imagine one careless cigarette-butt-out-the-car-window may set ablaze.  As you wind your way up the Mingus Mountain Scenic Byway grassland rapidly gives way to ponderosa pine forest.  And on a side note, the mountain passes were a blast, pushing the handling prowress of my recently acquired Mazda CX-3.  But I'll digress...this blog is for reviewing my hikes, not cars.

Mingus Mountain is a well-defined recreation area.  At the base is what's known as the picnic area,  with a vast paved surface lot, two picnic tables, and a latrine... A well-graded dirt and gravel road leads to the top of Mingus.  We opted to park on pavement and hike up the road.  Note if you choose to do this:  bring a bandana to cover your nose and mouth with.  The road can be dusty whenever a vehicle passes by, so use caution. 

While driving to the top is an option, you'll miss some beautiful scenery doing so.  There was ridge of firey fall color (and pretty much the only fall color we got on this hike).  You pass through several meadows and then by Mingus Lake (basically a fishing pond).  At Mingus Lake there was a meadow full of cattle grazing.  Only they were bulls.  And there was no fence/pen.  I nervously walked to the other side of the road.  Up the embankment was a wire (not razor nor electric) fence.  I seriously considered getting on the other side.  How is it legal to allow bulls to graze without a pen?! Regardless, there were people fishing in the lake, including some children that were running around.  The bulls seemed far more interested in the grassy meadow...

We reached the Mingus Fire Lookout only to discover it was closed for the season.  I've been up enough of these now that it wasn't a total crusher that this was closed.  Mingus is a very tall, narrow fire tower with a ladder up to the hatch.  My fear of heights would've kept me in check.

There are a number of side trails to explore from the Mingus Summit.  There's also a scenic vista and hang glider launch ramp.  The vista affords fantastic views of Sedona and the San Francisco Peaks in Flagstaff.  Cathedral Rock and a few other Sedona landmarks are visible to the naked eye.  It's time for me to get new binoculars.

A few additional things about this hike:

• Parking at the summit is $5. It's free at the base
• With radio warning signs everywhere, plenty of communications towers greet you at the summit.  I had great cell service, although it was spotty on the side trails
• Maps on U.S. Forest Service's website are OK, but I noted a few confusing points

Free-range bulls...literally

Sedona in the distance

Mt. Union & Fire Lookout Tower

Weather:  82º, sunny

About this Hike:  We've conquered another summit with a U.S. Forest Service fire lookout on top. This one was Mt. Union, just south of Prescott, AZ.

The hike up Mt. Union is not difficult. In fact, the 'trail' is actually a 4WD dirt road, and chances are you'll encounter ATVs and the like.  There's no designated parking area.  You drive in along one of two routes—Walker Rd. or Senator Highway, both of which eventually turn to packed dirt.  From the limited information I found online, it seemed both routes were the same in length and reported road conditions.  I can tell you this after going in one way and out the other—Senator Highway is in much better condition than Walker Rd.  Of course we didn't really have the right vehicle for this drive, but the old Honda Accord managed to make it over the bumpy dirt with just a few creaks and groans of dissatisfaction.

One other thing that was NOT mentioned anywhere online during my research.... I had carefully printed maps of the spaghetti-like mess of U.S. Forest Service fire roads that entangle this part of Prescott National Forest.  I never expected to have cell service and/or GPS out there.  On top of Mt. Union are multiple communications towers, and my Verizon phone had five bars and LTE service nearly the entire time.

We encountered a friendly Forest Ranger on the drive in, and he suggested parking just past a cattle guard at the confluence of Senator Highway and Poland Junction Rd. (Route 261). In this area there were barricades, signs, and police line tape reminiscent of this summer's Goodwin Fire closure area. However, the Mt. Union lookout tower has since re-opened.  The hike to the tower is an uphill, but not overly steep, 2.5 miles or so along Route 261.  This hike will take you through beautiful AZ High Country forestland.  

Speaking of the Goodwin Fire, from the lookout tower the fire scar is plainly visible.  At nearly 8000 feet, the Prescott Valley, Sedona, and even the San Francisco Peaks are also visible on a clear day.

We've visited a number of lookout towers throughout AZ, and each one is a unique and memorable experience. The U.S. Forest Rangers that man these towers are often interesting characters. The gentleman at the Mt. Union tower certainly did not disappoint....

Finally, there are alternate ways to access Mt. Union beyond the Senator Highway / Walker Rd. access points.  The Yankee Doodle trail will take you up and over Mt. Union, along with passing through the rest of the surrounding area.  To do Yankee Doodle in it's entirety you may want to plan on backpacking and camping for a night.

Blue spruce

Mt. Union's neighboring peak, Mt. Davis

Los Burros Trail - Pinetop

Weather:  82º, sunny

About this Hike:  I had difficulty finding the details I wanted about Los Burros online, so I'm going to try to share them here. Hopefully this helps another aspiring Los Burros explorer.

Los Burros is an easy drive from downtown Pinetop-Lakeside, AZ.  It does require about seven miles over a dirt road. Websites say it's a gravel road which to me means hard packed gravel and oil.  Oh no...this road is dirt.  It is well-maintained, graded dirt.  I didn't encounter any major potholes or washboard sections.  However, it's dirt and your car will get filthy.  I was driving in my brand new Mazda CX-3 and was not happy. But, give the road plenty of respect, especially if you're in a car, and you'll be OK.

The Los Burros trailhead originates from a campground with the same name.  It's a peaceful respite in the woods with some preserved historical U.S. Forest Service structures onsite.  The higher elevation lends to cooler temperatures.

The trail forms a giant loop said to be ~10 miles.  I chose to hike up to the fire lookout tower which was probably around eight miles round trip.  Numbered markers dot the trees along the trail and maps are available at the trailhead.  While fairly well-signed, staying on course does get tricky in places.

Hiking up to the fire tower takes you through green, flower-filled meadows; ponderosa pine forest; and even some stands of aspen.  When I reached the summit of Lake Mountain and the fire tower, a ranger was manning it and invited me up.

He was a very interesting older gentleman who had spent many a summer in what I learned is called the Lake Mountain Lookout.  This particular ranger had gone back to school for graphic design.  His artwork and photography decorates the 7x7 interior of the tower ('the cab' as they call it).  Upon my departure, he let me pick a postcard he had designed with artwork depicting Lake Mountain Lookout. Such an amazing souvenir of this hike.

Lake Mountain wasn't my first Arizona fire tower hike, and I hope it's not my last.  These towers require me to force one foot in front of the other.  With metal mesh staircases and a ladder for the final six-foot climb, these do no favors for my fear of heights.  However, the experience you have visiting these historic U.S. Forest Service structures makes the discomfort more than worth it.

So what is Lake Mountain anyway?  Well it turns out just below the fire tower there's a large, open meadow.  This has been known to fill during heavy rains, hence the name Lake Mountain Lake.  It was a marshy grassland during my visit in early June.  I noted some bones—possibly elk—strewn about the meadow.

Overall, an awesome hike worth the hassle of getting to in the White Mountains.

Lake Mountain Lake

My poor new car!

Bill Williams Mtn. - Remains my Unicorn

Weather:  78°, sunny, monsoon clouds

About this hike:  Every time I try to hike up Bill Williams Mountain in the fairly remote town of Williams, AZ, something goes wrong.  From a freak May snowstorm to personal drama, this one has been my unicorn.

Today I finally got to do this hike.  The weather did try to rain on me, but it only sprinkled briefly.  I was under a time constraint and reached the summit in about an hour--no small feat.

Once you reach the summit there's more plodding along a dirt Jeep road to get to where the communications towers are located.  All I have ever wanted to do at this summit was go up the historical U.S. Forest Service Fire Tower located at the top.  

Today I reached that goal.  Due to my time constraint I was stressed out and agitated.  While it was too warm for snow in September, the wind was whipping at the summit.  I got up about half a flight of those rickety, stairs on the tower and chickened out.  I suffer from a fairly bad fear of heights.  Now only is this tower about four stories high and rickety, it hugs the edge of the mountain.  And then that wind making it sway... I just couldn't do it. 

At the summit I met some friendly folks with a 4-seater Kawasaki ATV.  They offered me a ride down, and instead of going back to the trailhead, they dropped me in downtown Williams where my ride was waiting.  That stressor was relieved. 

I didn't get to experience the fire tower, but I did get a very similar experience in late July atop Spruce Mountain in Prescott.  Regardless, Bill Williams remains my unicorn... 

ATV ride!

Fire Tower I was afraid to climb

Oak Creek Canyon is visible from the summit

Groom Creek, Spruce Mountain, & a Fire Tower—Prescott Adventure

Weather:  88°, sunny, thunderstorm

About this hike:  Check Prescott off the bucket list of places I want to see in AZ.  Groom Creek Trail to Spruce Mountain Summit was a fabulous choice.  It's an easy drive from downtown Prescott.  I had read that a fire lookout tower adorns the top of Spruce Mountain.  Twice I have attempted to get to the fire lookout on top of Bill Williams Mountain and twice I have been defeated (a freak May snowstorm and then family drama).

The skies over most of the state were clear and AZ sunshine was pouring down.  Except over the Groom Creek Trail where a small thundercell had formed.  Determined not to be defeated again, we pressed on.  A power line runs parallel to the trail for a while.  So power lines, tall pines, and hiking during a thunderstorm—kids don't try this at home.

The lightning appeared to be mostly cloud-to-cloud, and eventually we reached the summit where I finally got my fire tower fix!

As I approached the tower, a Forest Service Ranger shouted down to us to come on up.  From her perch she pointed out Bill Williams Mountain (ironic), the San Francisco Peaks (Flagstaff), and smoke from a distant fire that she believed was a controlled burn.  Oh, and not to mention all the beautiful green ponderosa pine forest that makes up the Prescott Valley.  We chatted with the friendly Forest Ranger for a while, looked at her charts and maps, and were amused by the flock of hummingbirds at feeders hanging from the sides of the tower.  I couldn't have asked for a better experience.  Maybe someday I'll get to see the tower atop Bill Williams Mountain...

An interesting observation—usually I put my phone in airplane mode on these hikes.  The signal fades out and it just kills the battery while the phone searches in vain for service.  However, atop Spruce Mountain I had all 5 bars + 4G-LTE.  Communications towers also adorn the top of Spruce Mountain.

So how do workers get up to these towers on Spruce Mountain you ask?  Well there's a dirt road.  And as we came down from the tower, a minivan full of screaming kids arrived and unloaded.  I'm still glad we took the harder way up via the Groom Creek Trail...