East Baldy 95

Weather:  79º, sunny

About this Hike:  Just over two years ago I hiked up East Baldy. I was intrigued by the historic plane crash site near the summit. Back in 2024 we were coming off a winter of solid snow pack, and snow fields on the mountain made for an unpleasant hike. Now coming off two lackluster winters, I knew snow wouldn't be a problem on Baldy this year. I wanted to experience East Baldy in drier conditions and see if there are any additional airplane artifacts that were buried in snow last time. 

I forgot just how nice East Baldy is. It's seldom a steep climb, and it remains within forest for most of the hike. There's a lot of unique rock formations to enjoy, and it frequently opens up into stunning viewpoints. 

Unfortunately, a lot of the surrounding forest is succumbing pine beetle--a problem happening all over the western US. Many of the spruces and firs have turned an unpleasant brownish-orange color. Some of the worst die off is in the meadow surrounding the east fork of the Little Colorado River. Thankfully, there is still plenty of healthy old-growth forest to enjoy further up-trail. 

I reached the plane crash site in just over two hours--quite a bit faster than in 2024 when I could've used snowshoes. The only obstacles that slowed me down were areas of deadfall across the trail. Most of these have a side route carved around them, but some were an obstacle course to navigate. 

I didn't find any additional airplane wreckage at the summit. The pieces that I saw two years ago are all that is easily visible. However, mother nature must know this is ultimately a gravesite. The area around the crash is a field of beautiful mountain lupines. 

The wind was howling something fierce near the summit. It was making a eerie whistle through the stands of toothpicks that used to be trees. Some of these were crashing against each other adding to the cacophony. While I ate lunch near the crash site last time, I opted not to do so today. Judging from the amount of deadfall that litters these upper reaches of Mount Baldy, I thought the risk of a tree falling on me was too high. I took some photos and then began my descent back down, glad to have enjoyed East Baldy again in warmer conditions. 

Government Springs

Weather:  79º, sunny

About this Hike:  The plan for today was to head to the White Mountains and kayak at Crescent Lake. This body of water intrigued me last summer when I camped at Big Lake. I was hoping Crescent had fared like the rim lakes--despite virtually no snowpack this winter, the rim lakes filled up to about three-quarters their capacity due to some good rainfall. 

Before heading to the lake, I set up camp at one of my favorites--Winn Campground. The camp host informed me Crescent is considered a dead lake. Upon arrival, I found very low water, mud, and scum. I'm not sure if what I smelled was the scum on the water or the pit toilets... Harkening back to my algae-filled experience kayaking Big Lake last August, I knew better than to even attempt the gross cesspool that is Crescent's current condition. Someday after a winter of heavy snowpack when its full of clean, fresh water, I imagine Crescent will be a fun lake to paddle. 

My Plan B was right across the street from Crescent at the Overland Trail. I opened a gate and parked on the other side. The forest road was in awful condition. An trail sign indicates this is in fact the Overland Trail. It went briefly through some nice forest. It opened into a meadow with a preserved multi-room cabin. The meadow seemed to be an impromptu campground, and I was left wondering how people managed to get fifth-wheel trailers back there. The Overland Trail vanished and I had no luck finding it. The GPS track would indicate I was on trail, but in reality I was walking through a cow and elk poop filled meadow. 

I opted to turn back and try to figure something else out. I thought about Thompson Trail along the Black River. Even though I've done that one a few times before, it would be better than nothing. I opted instead to head back toward Winn Campground and see what Sheeps Crossing was all about. After all, the FS feels that Sheeps Crossing merits a paved parking lot.

I started down the only trail that branched from the parking lot. Soon, I was along the west fork of the Little Colorado. I followed what is an unmapped, but well-maintained trail parallel to the river. And speaking of the river, I think this is a more enjoyable (and less crowded) hike than Thompson Trail. I was surrounded by unique rock formations, trees, wildflowers, and of course, the constant burble of the river. I noted that the trail has clearly received maintenance, and someone has posted green arrow markers on trees. Since you're in a shallow, narrow canyon, it's not hard to stay on trail--just stay parallel with the river. Aside from a few boulder fields and muddy seeps, it was an easy trail to follow.

Since it was late in the day, I only went about two miles and then turned back. Looking at the map, I suspected this trail would lead to Greer. I confirmed that it does in fact lead to Greer, and can be hiked from Government Springs Trailhead. 

While not an official FS trail, Government Springs was a redeeming hike on a day that otherwise had not gone well. It was back to Winn Campground to get ready for tomorrow's hike at East Baldy. 

Babe Haught Trail

Weather:  67º, mostly cloudy, humid, light showers

About this Hike:  Over the past few weeks I've developed a renewed interest in the Mogollon Rim. I guess I should, considering it's right in my backyard. 

After exploring along Promontory Butte last weekend, I took note of the Babe Haught Trail. Access to this one is easy if you start below the rim. The trailhead parking is along paved FR-289 right at the entrance to the Tonto Fish Hatchery. If you access the trail from the 300 road on the rim, it's a much longer drive—almost all the way to Knoll Lake. 

Rim Country has seen multiple inches of rain in the last week. Friday alone brought two inches to my backyard rain gauge in Payson, and I would imagine the rim got even more. This in part drove my decision to choose a trail with paved-road access. I did not think today was a good day for dirt roads. 

In fact, I wasn't sure today was a good day to go hiking period. The rain chances were still fairly high this morning. The skies were full of grey and white billowy clouds that occasionally broke to let the sun shine through. Even though the rain had let up, I thought the trails may be muddy. 

With brilliant sunshine illuminating Payson by mid morning I couldn't help myself. I opted to give the Babe Haught hike a try. This ended up being one of those rare times where I rolled the dice and won. 

Despite all the rain, the Babe Haught Trail wasn't muddy at all. The ground was a little soft, but this only aided in traction on the steeper sections. And speaking of steepness, compared to the trails I did last weekend—Promontory and Horton Spring—Babe Haught has a more gradual climb up the rim. It's not as vertical as the two aforementioned trails. The trail is mostly exposed and traverses through thick manzanita punctuated by burned juniper stumps. It also goes through a vein of the rim made of red sandstone that I like to call 'Sedona.' 

Upon cresting the rim, I was greeted by a distant elk bugle and enjoyed just over a mile of flat hiking through forest. I imagine somewhere in the distant past this area burned. The ponderosas are younger, albeit not tiny by any means. They're also clustered closely together with their sharp lower branches all intertwined like a forest of razor blades. This reminded me a little of the lodgepole pine growth seen in Yellowstone. 

Babe Haught reaches the 300 road and then crosses over it, indicated by signage. This is where the scenery really became enjoyable. While not quite to the level of my Barbershop Canyon hike a few weekends ago, this part of Babe Haught is full of old-growth firs, occasional spruces, and plenty of ponderosas. The trail began to follow a ravine eventually dropping down. In this little canyon a bull elk was bugling loudly. Gratefully I only heard him but never saw him. I'd rather not encounter bull elks, especially during the fall rut. 

I followed the trail along the creek which was surprisingly dry save for a few pools of standing water. With all the flash flooding we've seen this week in Globe and Phoenix this week, one must wonder where all the water is going on the rim...

The goal of this hike was to reach the southeast fork of Knoll Lake. Speaking of missing water, Knoll Lake is so low that I was able to hike over the sandy creek bed that probably is the lake bottom when the lake is full to capacity.  I'm not sure why this wasn't a muddy mess. Eventually the lake came into view. The water is the lowest I've ever seen it, and more of the namesake knoll in the middle is jutting out. I also spied people on the exposed, rocky shoreline. They were all bundled up in hoodies and jackets as a cool wind was blowing off the lake. 

Knoll Lake was my turnaround point. I pondered how getting to Knoll Lake for kayaking is a long, arduous drive on dirt roads, and yet I can hike it from the bottom of the rim in just under four miles. Up until this time I had enjoyed dry weather. This changed as I left the lake. A few spotty rains gave me a shower, although it was always light and short-lived. Thankfully there was no thunder or lightning. 

As I reached the edge of the rim and was beginning my descent back to Hatchery Trailhead, I watched rain curtains move in from the not-so-distant mountains. When these reached the edge of the rim they formed something of a mist, and the rain was never more than sprinkles. 

I arrived back home in Payson grateful for being able to squeeze in this hike on a day when I wasn't sure conditions would cooperate. In fact, I made it home just in time. As I changed out of my hiking clothes it began to thunder and lightning, all accompanied by an epic downpour. 

Promontory Highline Horton Loop

Weather:  70º, sun and clouds, humid

About this Hike:   Promontory Butte on the rim has captured my interest as of late. This area suffered fire damage during the Horton Fire last December, but finally reopened a couple months ago. 

Promontory Butte is accessed from Rim Road 300 via FR-76. I drove down 76 and then turned onto 76B. The map indicated that Promontory Trail was located down 76B. I anticipated this road may not be drivable, but in fact it was a decent road. Narrow for sure, but not wash boarded or rutted. With the area having received a good dose of rain Thursday night going into Friday, I anticipated (correctly) there would be some standing water. About halfway down the 76B road I encountered a big mud puddle and noticed a good parking area off to the side. Fearful of getting stuck in mud, I opted to park the truck and hike to the trailhead, no more than 7-10 minutes away. At the trailhead was a huge class A motorhome and a family campout. Guess that mud puddle wasn't a big deal after all... 

There is an overlook at the Promontory Trailhead. I set down my hiking pole on a rock and planned to take in the view. The rock began rattling at me. Carefully, I grabbed my hiking pole and opted to just start heading down Promontory Trail.

Going down Promontory was not particularly enjoyable. The Horton Fire wasn't super high intensity, and most trees are still intact. Unfortunately many of them have died regardless. It was a slow, steep grind down Promontory, although the trail itself is in good shape and easy to follow. The moist, but not muddy, ground helped with traction, although I still got down on all fours a few times to mitigate fall risk.

Eventually I reached the junction with Highline Trail. The signpost is still there, but the sign is gone. An orange piece of ribbon with black polka dots adorned the tree,  a relic from the Mogollon Monster 100 two weeks ago (see my Barbershop Canyon blog). 

I anticipated making up some time on Highline since it is a great trail and used for mountain biking. I did make good time. Such good time that when I checked my All Trails map it showed I had missed some sort of turn off for Horton Spring Trail. The plan was to use Horton to hike back up the rim. Panicked, I doubled back close to a mile. The supposed trail junction was nowhere to be found. I recalled reading that Highline was re-routed in places a few years ago. With relatively close proximity to Christopher Creek, I was able to get cell service. Google Maps indicated I was on the new Highline trail. Meaning I had doubled back in vain, and now had to re-hike this segment of the trail.

I continued on with All Trails showing me wandering somewhere in the wilderness, albeit roughly parallel to Highline Trail. All Trails map needs to be updated to the new Highline routing. Eventually Highline did intersect Horton at the namesake Horton Spring. This was one of the few pretty areas of the hike with lush foliage and the flowing spring. Most of this section of Highline was fire damaged. 

The climb up Horton was short and very steep. It got to me more than I expected, and I took frequent rest breaks. I honestly think the bad energy in the dead forest along Highline had something to do with it. Eventually back up on the rim, I stopped in a shaded area with some nice flat boulders and had lunch. I didn't feel great, likely needing some electrolytes. 

The final push to close the loop was about four miles along the 300 road, but using General Crook Trail as much as possible to circumvent the road. General Crook proved hard to find and follow. I ended up getting myself lost in the woods. I told myself not to panic as I observed orange slashes on many of the trees and some crushed beer cans littering the forest floor. Obviously I wasn't too far from civilization. I found a dozer line, likely a fire containment feature from last December. I followed this to an un-mapped road which took me back to 300. I gave up on the General, opting to follow 300. Despite what All Trails shows, I believe General Crook simply is the 300 road, at least in this section. 

I did find a great shortcut that worked for me cutting from 300 road back down to the 76 road. I was more sore and tired than I should have been after ~1,800 feet elevation gain and 11 miles. 

The highlight of today's trip ended up not being the hike. I bet this area was beautiful just a year ago, but last December's unfortunate fire changed that. No, the highlight was after getting back to the truck I drove the remaining couple miles of 76 out to Promontory Butte Lookout. The nearly 360 degree views of Central Arizona were breathtaking. I could see Payson in the distance and even found my neighborhood through my binoculars. Maybe with a telescope I could find my street or even my house? 

There were quite a few people dispersed camping at the overlook. And that got me thinking... I would love to camp here and enjoy the overlook in early morning light. Today's late-afternoon light cast harsh shadows and obscured some of the views.

While I don't plan on hiking the Promontory-Highline-Horton loop again anytime soon, I might just need to bring a tent and come back to the overlook....

Pole Knoll

Weather:  79º, overcast

About this Hike:  Visiting Pole Knoll has been on the long list since at least 2018. Back then I had the intelligent idea that this could be a fun wintertime snowshoeing trip. Back in 2018 I still lived in Phoenix...

Today Payson is home and the White Mountains should be a lot more accessible. After all, Payson is just the halfway point between Phoenix and White Mountains, so now I'm already halfway there, right?  Wrong. Driving to the White Mountains is still about a three-hour, arduous affair. I shudder to think what it would be like in winter when there's enough snow to go snowshoeing. 

On Memorial Weekend this year we headed to Mt. Baldy and got turned around in Heber-Overgaard due to a crash on 260. This past weekend, the exact same thing happened. In the exact same spot. It even looked like it was the same cop turning traffic around. Talk about déjà vu. At least I was well-versed in the detour through Snowflake this time around. All in all, it took close to four hours to get to the White Mountains...from Payson. 

I spent the evening at Rainbow Campground on Big Lake and then visited Pole Knoll the following morning. It's not snowshoeing weather, but I was still glad to finally visit this site. 

The weather looked ominous with low, moody clouds and plenty of humidity. Despite high rain chances, I never experienced a drop nor a rumble of thunder. 

I hiked many of the interior trails of Pole Knoll, although there are so many that one would be hard pressed to experience them all in a day. After a while they all look the same—thick conifer forest and thicker aspen forest. That's not a bad thing... The trails are well signed and trees are adorned with blue diamond markers. I'm told these are international snowshoeing markers, hence 'Pole' in the name. Some of the trails appear to be old roads. At least one is still an active road, as I learned when a Jeep came up behind me.

I took the Summit Trail to the top of the namesake knoll and then followed Viewpoint Trail. Thick forest gave way to a nice vantage gazing down into Sunrise Lake and the lodge. The slopes and Mt. Baldy were not so far away in the distance.  

I descended from Summit and picked up Pole Knoll Loop. This trail is supposed to go around the base of the knoll. On the side facing FR-112 the well-marked trail and all the blue diamonds suddenly disappeared. So did thick forest, and it was now rocky grassland with cow pies everywhere. This area made me extremely nervous. I wandered off trail on the side of the knoll while looking down at FR-112 a few hundred yards below. In fact what I was supposed to do was follow 112; the forest road becomes the trail for a short time. 

Eventually I saw a parked truck and knew I was at the other Pole Knoll Trailhead that is accessed via FR-112. I gave up on the loop trail. It was confusing to follow and ugly scenery. I followed a trail from the 112 trailhead back into the thick, beautiful forest. 

Satisfied, I weaved my way on interior trails back to the main parking area. With several picnic ramadas, this made a nice lunch spot after my hike. As I ate, I pondered how accessible Pole Knoll is in the winter. Assuming ADOT clears 260, there is still a driveway to get back to the Pole Knoll parking lot. I doubt this gets much plowing...

Regardless of the season, after all these years I'm glad to finally check Pole Knoll off the bucket list. 

Chevelon Canyon via Telephone Ridge

Weather:  75º, sun and clouds 

About this Hike:  This one ended up being better than expected. I think this past February's hike to a Chevelon Canyon overlook inspired me to research more access points to this unique rim canyon. 

The rim has gotten some much needed rain this week, and that lended to some muddy spots on the forest roads driving in. Tired of the mud, and having failed to put traction boards in my off-road recovery kit, I opted to stop where FR-180 junctions with FR-119. It's about two miles down FR-119 to the official Telephone Trailhead. For what it's worth, 119 is narrow, rocky, and has huge ruts. The ruts were full of muddy standing water, although these have clearly been problem spots for years. Previous drivers have made new paths that go around the damaged sections of 119. 

The two-mile walk being a nice warm-up, we reached the official start of Telephone Trail. I was pleasantly surprised to find the steep descent into the canyon to be on a well-maintained, easy-to-follow footpath. We took our time ensuring good footing on the steeper sections. In short time the trail leveled out a bit. Tall pines and oaks offered some shade. We reached the meadows at the bottom of Chevelon Canyon. The namesake Chevelon Creek was flowing strong in the bottom of the canyon. 

While the official trail ends soon as you reach the canyon floor, footpaths can be identified following the creek. Chevelon is a popular route for backpackers, as the number of fire rings will attest to. We went upstream a ways, marveling at the rock formations and lush forest that define this canyon. 

The hike back up went rather easily, although two more road miles awaited us back to where I had parked the truck. At the trailhead there was now parked a Chevy Trailblazer...on street tires. I'm not sure how that car got through those muddy spots on the 119 road. I may have a 4x4 truck, but I'm a big wimp when it comes to treacherous forest roads. 

Regardless, this hike afforded spectacular Chevelon Canyon views and a nice glimpse into the interior of Chevelon's ecosystem. 

Mount Baldy Crossover 96

Weather:  71º, sun 

About this Hike:  Over the past two years I've completed both East Baldy and West Baldy trails. If I was brave and did the entire 16 mile loop in a day, I would have had to use the Crossover trail. 

We didn't feel like a hike with too much elevation gain. I thought checking out Crossover would be perfect—get some of the Mount Baldy experience without the tough switchbacks and climbs. 

We parked at East Baldy lot with the intention of possibly going up East Baldy to the rock formations, depending on how much time Crossover would take. 

Crossover ended up being better than expected. There was some minor elevation gain. Much of it goes through thick White Mountain forest of spruces, firs, ponderosas, and aspens. Occasionally it opens up into big, grassy meadows. There were a couple of water crossings, with the final one being West Fork of the the Little Colorado at the West Baldy junction. While the most significant stream crossing, it was still very easy, especially when utilizing the log bridges placed by previous hikers.

We opted to follow the West Fork for what ended up being about 2.5 miles up West Baldy. My hiking partner was starting to get ideas about trying to close the loop. We were only about one-third of the way through the 16 mile loop, and a friendly hiker advised us that the tree blowdowns at the summit were severe. She said it could add a couple hours onto the hike with all the trail finding, tree ducking, etc. We opted to return the way we came. Since we did an extra 2.5 miles on the west side, we ended up not going up to the rocks on the east side. 

My takeaway from today is that Crossover is a worthwhile trail unto itself. The scenery was better than expected, and despite no major elevation gain, this was still a great day hike in the White Mountains.

 

Drew Canyon and 9350 Campground Trails

Weather:  57º, sun

About this Hike:  To wrap up a holiday week filled with great hikes, I decided to check out Drew Canyon Trail up on the rim. I spotted Drew a few weeks ago on a hike along the Highline Trail. Drew intersects with Highline at a prominent horse gate. 

The map indicated that Drew could be accessed from the top of the rim via the 9350 campground. This assessment was correct. With just a few campers on top of the rim today, parking was easy. I chose to park in campsite #15 since Drew trail literally bisects it. 

Down and back up Drew was just under two miles. It was a little steep going down, but not too bad. Nothing like Turkey Springs a little further west on the rim. 

I popped back up at the 9350 campground with the intention to explore more of the trails in area. There are miles and miles of loop trails including Aspen, Carr Lake, and General Crook. I ended up spending the afternoon exploring a combination of all of the above. 

The trails and junctions are all very well marked with tree blazes and signage. I used one connector trail called Boulder Hop, and that one became hard to follow. Eventually I gave up and just continued off trail toward Aspen Trail knowing it was ahead somewhere, per my hiking GPS. 

The other trails take you through typical, but beautiful, Mogollon Rim country. There are grassy meadows, thick ponderosas, and occasional blue spruces and Douglas firs. There are dry creek beds punctuated with pale rust-colored boulders. There may even be a water feature in a wetter season around Carr Lake. 

Carr Lake is where I reached an overlook point. On the drive up this morning smoke from the Horton Fire was not even visible. Fire reports indicate the fire is mostly low intensity and under control. I did see a few wildland fire crews just before Woods Canyon Lake. 

However, the winds seemed to shift this afternoon. The smoke plume became very visible near Carr Lake overlook. I could also smell the smoke and see the haze amongst the pine trees. I opted to turn back. Heading inland away from the edge of the rim meant clearer air and no smoke. I should also mention that I was careful to respect current fire closure boundaries. 

I've wanted to explore both Drew Canyon and the network of trails around 9350 campground for some time now. While the area should have about five feet of snow over it, I'll take advantage of our warmer-than-average December weather while it lasts. 

Seeing Fall Color

Weather:  63°; sun and clouds

About this Hike:  It has been just over five years since I last visited See Canyon. Back then I did this steep climb on a hot, humid August afternoon. I'm not sure what I was thinking back then, although I do remember it being a beautiful hike...

We came out here today to experience some Arizona fall color, which thus far this year has been lacking. See Canyon did not disappoint. I was fortunate to get one of the last parallel parking spaces along the 284 road. The main lot was full. 

Upon arriving at the parking area we were greeted with red and orange maples. As we hiked into the canyon the scenery only got better. We did the side trip over to See Spring which was flowing nicely. It's fascinating to watch how these springs go underground and then re-emerge right out of the side of a rock pile. 

The higher we climbed into the canyon, the better the fall color became. While the reds, yellows, and oranges were mostly attributed to maples, a few aspens in the higher elevations also showed off their golden leaves. All of this fall color is complimented by evergreens, striking rim views, and dramatic dry creek beds. 

The final part of this hike is very steep. It's like the bulk of the 2,000+ feet of elevation gain all comes at once. Approaching the rim, the landscape changes. The rocks become a pale color with some rust spots. The soil gets rockier. The vibrant mix of colorful maples and evergreen firs gives way to spotty grassland and ponderosa pine. The few deciduous trees at this elevation were already bare of leaves.  We turned back at Forest Road 300 (Rim Road) and hiked back down the way we came. 

Despite only being about 3:30pm, the shadows were long in the canyon and the temperatures began to drop quickly, despite brilliant sunshine still lighting the cliffs above. We returned to a now almost empty parking area just as the sun began its final descent and the full moon began to rise.  

West Baldy #94

Weather:  81°; clouds and sun

About this Hike:  Rested up after a night at Winn Campground, I headed to West Baldy #94 to get an early start. This time of year the days start beautiful in the White Mountains—clear blue skies with not a cloud in sight. By lunchtime this often changes as the thunderstorms build in. 

I came to this hike expecting it to be another gorgeous White Mountains landscape—old growth forests, lush meadows, and the winding west fork of the Little Colorado River. My map indicated it was about seven miles to the pseudo-summit where West Baldy #94 joins East Baldy #95. 

I didn't expect to reach that summit. I planned to go as far as I could and just enjoy the magnificent scenery while keeping a close watch on the skies. As the first thunderheads began building, I planned to head for lower elevation. 

What I didn't realize is that most of the elevation gain on this well-traveled trail comes later in the hike. Meanwhile, I was enjoying the scenery. Wildflowers filled the meadows around the Little Colorado. I'd hike through an open, grassy meadow only to again be under the canopy of granddaddy lodgepole pines, firs, spruces, ponderosas, and aspens. I lost track of time. The trail was ascending very gradually, but thus far there was no steep ascent. I looked at my map and realized I was about three-quarters of the way to the summit. A few grey clouds had popped up and were offering some welcome respite from the sun's rays. The clouds weren't thundering, but I knew the weather was changing. Regardless, I was now determined to reach that summit. 

At this point the trail exits the thick forest and comes into a damaged area. On both West Baldy, and looking to the other ridge on the east, downed trees litter the landscape like toothpicks. I thought this was Wallow Fire damage from 2011, but I may be incorrect. I've heard everything from pine beetle kill, to a fire in the early 2000s is responsible for this damage. 

Despite the damage, the forest is regenerating. Parts of the landscape are covered in blue spruces that look to be about 10-15 years old based on their height. It's like a Christmas tree forest. And it's right about here where the steepest elevation gain begins. A few tight switchbacks push your ascent above 11K feet. 

I met a friendly lady on horseback who advised me to watch for a meadow full of purple wildflowers in one of the areas where the pines had died. It was magnificent. She also told me to look out for the famed plane crash site. I was able to find the fuselage on the mountainside using my binoculars. 

Finally, I pushed ahead to the pseudo-summit. I call it this because the true summit is on tribal land and requires permission to hike to. I did find the trail that would have led to the true summit. I expected a warning sign and perhaps a gate. Logs and stones laid across the trail are the only indicator this area is off limits. It wouldn't stop anyone who wanted to just step over it. I opted to respect tribal land, and plus, the summit adds about another mile each way and I was tired. Plus I now had to hike back down seven miles.

I briefly considered going down East Baldy. After all, the sign at the junction indicated it was a couple miles shorter. But linking back to the West Baldy lot where I was parked would add more mileage. I opted to return the way I came. 

Shortly after beginning my descent, the cloudy skies began to rumble. And rumble some more. The first thunderstorm popped up and dropped some rain. The rain-cooled air actually felt pretty good. I met other hikers still on their ascent. I was surprised how most of them seemed unfazed by the afternoon weather. Meanwhile, I was hustling to get to lower elevation. 

That first storm blew through and clear skies returned. I continued on my descent, but as I came within a couple miles of the trailhead, mother nature unleashed again. Loud thunder and hail came with this one. Thankfully the hail was just an annoyance and not dangerous. I still got a good soaking. Other hikers were laughing and joking about it. I wish I could be so nonchalant, but I hate getting caught in thunderstorms. 

When I originally researched this hike, West Baldy looked more scenic to me. But now that I've seen it in person, you can bet I'll be back to do East Baldy. With a little more research and planning, I might have done both as a loop, but at the same time I look forward to returning to this beautiful area. 

Thompson Trail #629 - High Road vs. Low Road

Weather:  79°; clouds and sun

About this Hike:  Getting there may be half the fun, but not when it comes to the White Mountains. The drive takes forever, which is why I'd only been to this part of the state once in the past. 

But now that Payson is home, that drive is 'only' about three hours, and I'm planning on exploring the White Mountains more in depth. With Payson weather as of late being reminiscent of the Phoenix Valley weather I left behind (triple digits and no rain), I decided to head for the 'coolest' spot in the state right now. 

I set up camp Friday afternoon at Winn Campground under threatening skies. Rain showers started just east of Pinetop and followed me the entire way to the campground. With my site picked out and camp set up, I headed out for my first hike.

Being as it was late afternoon, I planned an easy hike for this evening. I've long seen photos from the White Mountains of lush, wildflower-studded meadows with a stream flowing through the middle. I wanted this type of scenery to be my White Mountains experience. The hike on Thompson Trail did not disappoint.  

The hike begins at a well-signed trailhead off a maintained gravel road. I hiked along a decommissioned forest road and admired views of the west fork of the Black River down below. I saw what looked like a path on the river's edge and even some other hikers down there. The embankment was pretty steep, and I wondered how they got down there... 

Eventually I reached the end of the old road at a marked junction. The sign read 'Thompson Trail 0.3 mile.' I thought I had been on the Thompson Trail the whole time. Looking at my map, I saw a series of extremely tight switchbacks in the direction where the sign pointed to Thompson Trail. Those switchbacks would take me down to the river. But would there be a trail down there, or would it be marshy grass? I decided to explore, but only a little further. The trail was rocky and getting hard to follow. I opted to play it safe and return the way I came, at least until I reached a small saddle where the embankment wasn't so steep. 

Climbing down the embankment and through the marshy grass, I was able to get down to the river's edge where a well-blazed trail awaited me. I followed this all the way back to a gate on the old road, which then led back to the trailhead. In other words, I could have hiked at the river's edge the entire time. The trick is to follow the path to the left of the gate as you come in via the old road. Regardless, this was a beautiful, easy ~5 mile hike, and a good intro to the White Mountains.

I returned to camp to get ready for the next day's big hike at Mount Baldy. 

Military Sinkhole Via 260 Trailhead

Weather:  90°; sun; windy

About this Hike:  Driving eastbound from Payson on AZ-260, I've long been intrigued by a sign indicating a left turn that's aptly named '260 Trailhead.'   

This is an uncomfortable left turn.  The highway is four lanes total (two in each direction) with a solid center line.  There's no center lane for making a left turn.  Oh, and the speed limit is 55 mph, with most people doing far in excess of that.  

Military Sinkhole trail ascends the Mogollon Rim from 260 Trailhead.  If the left turn were not safe, my Plan B was to drive a few more miles and park at Military Sinkhole Vista on top of the rim and then hike this trail in the opposite direction.  Thankfully, with no traffic behind me, and a gap in oncoming traffic, I was able to make the legal, but treacherous, left turn into 260 Trailhead parking lot. 

I was surprised to find a large gravel lot with bulletin boards, a latrine, and well-signed trails branching in multiple directions.  

From the parking lot I began my ascent on Military Sinkhole Trail.  The forest service website labels this as Trail #966, but the signage at the trail has it as Trail #179.  Regardless, the ascent up the rim takes place over about two miles and just over 1,000 feet of elevation gain.  It starts out in a vein of "Sedona-esque' red rock, but quickly becomes shadier.  In fact, this section of the hike has the best forest.  A thick blend of firs, spruces, and ponderosas are complemented by plenty of maple and oak.  I might need to come back here in the fall.  

The trail crests on the rim at Military Sinkhole lookout site, which is part of the Rim Lakes Vista Trail.  Forest Road 300 (Rim Road) is still paved at this point, and the vista lookout sites have paved parking lots.  This means expect lots of tourist traffic.  

Despite the higher elevation, the forest on this part of the rim changes.  Mighty ponderosas dominate with no firs or spruces in sight.  The pines are spread apart, and the forest floor feels almost like high desert grassland.  Open grassy meadows are abundant while old logging roads criss-cross the landscape. 

I opted to cross FR-300 and continue along the trail.  I found what I'm certain is the Military Sinkhole.  It's just a shallow depression in the ground.  Maybe it fills with water during the wetter seasons.  Being as it was still early in the day, I continued my hike following the trail and Old Rim Road to the 235 Road Trail.  I hiked to a feature on the map called 'Lake Three.'  Lake Three was void of any water, but it was beautiful, grassy elk meadow.  This was my turn around point.  

Despite the forecasted highs on the rim top being in the low 80s, it was hot.  The wind picked up in the afternoon, which was a welcome relief. Despite the shade of the thicker trees, the hike down only got hotter as I descended in elevation.  

I've long been curious about 260 Trailhead, and I'm glad to have explored this area.  And of course, I found a few other trails that I'll need to come back and explore again in the near future.  

See Canyon #184 - Up the Rim

Weather:  88º, humid, partly cloudy

About this Hike:  See Canyon has been on the bucket list for a while now.  A last-minute deal at Kohl's Ranch outside of Payson meant this was to be another rim weekend. 

See Canyon trail traverses the Mogollon Rim, and if you're daring (as we were), allows you to hike up the entire rim in just under four miles.

There are two trailheads for #184.  One is in the little community of Christoper Creek just off AZ-260 E, and this is the one we opted to park at.  From Christopher Creek Loop, you simply turn onto FR 284 (confusing, since the trail number is 184) and follow it to a large parking area.  FR 284 is a good dirt road with a few sections that might be considered light rock crawl.  Other than that it's good, packed dirt. 

The other trailhead is on top of the rim.  It branches off from FR-300, also known as Rim Road.  Think of this like the Grand Canyon:  Get the easy downhill part over with first, and then hike back up it afterward!

We're the type who like to eat the frogs first...  This meant climbing the rim first and then taking it easy on the way down.  The hike starts in typical, beautiful Arizona high-country forest.  There are several crossings over Christopher Creek, which had just the right amount of water following weeks of monsoon activity this summer.  It's noteworthy to mention that the numerous washes along this trail were otherwise dry. 

Trail 184 eventually begins its steady ascent to the top of the rim.  The worst is at the end, with a steep section of light scree that requires some careful hand and foot work to ensure stable footing.  Shortly thereafter the sound of OHVs becomes more apparent.  Rim Road comes into sight. 

The hike down is a nice way to decompress.  Christopher Creek is at ~5,900 feet, while the Rim Road trailhead sits at close to 7,900 feet.  This hike involves nearly 2,000 feet of elevation gain in just under four miles! 

While we didn't see abundant wildlife on this hike, we did meet a few interesting fellow hikers. These included people with loppers and axes that mercifully were not something out of a horror movie... In fact, they were part of a service organization that maintains the trails.  A sign denotes this not too far from the trailhead.  Their service was appreciated, as soft, monsoon-fed grasses were making for some light bushwhacking in spots. 

Last year some people at Beaver Creek near Sedona were water angels to another hiker that was with me (and didn't prepare accordingly).  Our hike might've been cut short if they hadn't saved the day with an extra water bottle.  I've wished to pay this forward, and today was our chance.  We met a friendly, but exhausted couple on trail in need of some extra water.  Word of advice:  Trail #184 is NOT a mountain biking trail.  Unless, that is, you like carrying your bike up 2,000 feet over nearly four miles.

Epilogue:  This hike took about four hours total.  Next on the agenda was a drive up Rim Road to Bear Canyon Lake for some kayaking.  One more beautiful canyon-bound, pine-enshrouded, rim lake checked off the bucket list. 

On the way up to Bear Canyon Lake we spotted the Rim Road trailhead for See Canyon #184.  We also spotted a familiar couple now on their mountain bikes pedaling along Rim Road. Kind of ironic...

Chevelon Canyon Lake - One Check Off the Bucket List

Weather:  75º, very sunny, breezy

About this Hike:  I seldom blog about my kayaking adventures, this in spite of the fact that I consider kayaking to be hiking over water.

A year or so ago I found a place on the map called Chevelon Canyon Lake.  High on the Mogollon Rim, this man-made inpound of Chevelon Creek beckoned to me.  In June 2016 I kayaked Willow Springs Lake, which happens to be another reservoir on Chevelon Creek.  Willow Springs sits next to AZ-260 and is much more accessible.  Chevelon Canyon, on the other hand, requires about 18 miles over dirt roads.  Warnings everywhere advise it's 'the most remote of the Rim Lakes.'

The drive sounded daunting and was a big part of what kept me from Chevelon Canyon.  I couldn't find good answers regarding the series of dirt roads that lead up to the lake.  Arizona Highways described the final stretch as 'deeply rutted,' in an undated article.  The internet does not abound with information either.  People I spoke to told me everything from, "I did it in a sedan!" to, "High clearance, 4WD recommended."

I even called the Black Mesa Ranger District where a ranger described the road as 'improved gravel.'  With dry conditions this year, I figured erosion on the road would be low.  I decided to give it a try in my RWD Xterra.

Undeniably, I was nervous as FR-300 (Rim Road) gave way to dirt just after Woods Canyon Lake.  FR-300 is a wide, well-maintained dirt road.  Other than some washboarding, which was worse on the inbound side, this is a fine dirt road.  Next is a right turn onto FR-169, where the bulk of the drive takes place.  FR-169 is everything a dirt/gravel road should be.  Seldom washboardy, no ruts, well maintained.  All of these roads are well signed, too.

Another right onto FR-169B encompasses the last two miles of the journey.  FR-169B is said to be the worst section of this drive.  Narrower and strewn with small rocks, FR-169B is a little rough in places.  There are a couple hills that are rutted and tricky, but not bad by any means.  At no point was I nervous about a tip over.  I should also mention that there are no steep drops off the side of any of these roads.

Finally, the Chevelon Canyon Lake Campground came into view.  I nabbed a fantastic campsite (it's first come, first served) in a corner area.  My Xterra was shaded by a big juniper.  My site at this primitive campground was complete with picnic table and a taped-off fire ring.  (We're lucky Chevelon Canyon is even open right now; much of Apache-Sitegraves Forest is closed.)  I should also mention that while this is considered a remote area, my Verizon cell phone seldom had fewer than two bars...

Getting to the lake from the campground takes another 3/4 mile hike down into the canyon.  Remember that what goes down must come up, even after a long day of paddling on the lake.  This is along an old, unmaintained road that is gated at the campground.  ATVs can drive this section of the road.  My guess would be this road was last used when the large concrete spillway that protects the earthen dam was poured.

I carried my kayak down the entire way.  It was tough work, but the views on this remote, beautiful lake were worth it.  A kind gentleman on a quad offered to haul it up for me at the end of the day.

Finally, I shot some video of the drive out of the campground along FR-169B.  Use this to make your own assessment, but remember, monsoon rains, snow, etc. can quickly change a dirt road.