Buck Mountain Lookout

Weather:  88º, sun, occasional clouds

About this Hike:  I noticed the sign for Buck Mountain Lookout last weekend while driving up to Flagstaff. We decided to make a return visit today to check out this historic fire lookout. 

I wasn't sure how drivable FR-229 would be, but it ended up being an easy drive up to the last mile where we opted to park and begin the hike. The last spur of road up to the fire lookout is closed anyway, with a sign advising foot traffic only. 

For an historic lookout built in the 1930s, I was surprised to see a lot of modern infrastructure. I'm uncertain when this lookout officially closed. The AI answer I received was in the 1970s, but the signage and infrastructure look newer than that. While the cab is closed and boarded up, the stairs up to the tower are open. In fact, the wood decking of the tower looks surprisingly new. My research also indicated the tower underwent restoration in 2022. 

While obscured by vegetation, the views atop Buck Mountain were impressive. I especially enjoyed using my binoculars to find Apache Maid Mountain (and its fire lookout) along with Wet Beaver Wilderness. Despite their proximity, I was unable to see any of Sedona. 

During our lunch break, an Arizona Sister butterfly landed on my red hiking back. She put on quite a show, pumping her wings while using her proboscis to lap up whatever residue was on my pack. 

The day was hot, save for a few clouds and rumbles of distant thunder. We kept this hike relatively short and then headed back to Pine for beers at That Brewery. 

Bear Jaw Abineau & Walker Lake

Weather:  70º, humid, clouds, occasional light rain, sun later

About this Hike:  Triple digits are here in Arizona, even for Rim Country. I decided to head above 8,000 feet to try and get some respite from the heat. It's been a while since I've explored the Bear Jaw Abineau loop in the Kachina Peaks Wilderness north of Flagstaff. Today seemed to be the perfect day to visit again. 

When I arrived at the trailhead around noon, the sun felt scorching. I feared this was going to be an unpleasant hike. However, dark clouds were building around the Kachina Peaks. While cloud cover would offer some respite from the sun, it also could mean lightning—not something you want when climbing to above 10,000 feet. The forecast had indicated low chance of storms today, but in the mountains during an active monsoon season, a daily storm is almost inevitable. 

In the past I've hiked this loop counter-clockwise. Doing so gets the steeper portion out of the way on the ascent up the Abineau Trail, with a more gradual descent on the Bear Jaw Trail. 

The day ended up being perfect weather-wise. The clouds never thundered, but they did bring respite from the sun. When I reached the Waterline Connector Trail at the top of Abineau Peak, I received a welcome, cooling shower. By the time I reached the junction with Bear Jaw Trail to begin my descent, the sun was already back out. 

Before beginning my descent, I lingered and took in the spectacular views of the mountains and old-growth conifer forest. The Kachina Peaks look like something you'd see in Colorado or in the Rockies. With no major fires in Arizona right now, the air was reasonably clear today. There were views across the meadows studded with ancient volcanic features, reaching all the way up to the rim of the Grand Canyon. The forest floor was alive with wildflowers and colorful berries. 

While the sun came back out, once I got under the canopy of thicker forest, it offered plenty of shade. The forest transitions from high-altitude conifer to massive aspen, and then eventually old-growth ponderosas make a return. The ponderosas are never very dense in this ecosystem, but the ones that have managed to thrive above 8,000 feet are gargantuan. And there's the smell...this is a very fragrant forest. The notes of pine mix with the butterscotch-vanilla of the ponderosas. 

I had such an enjoyable afternoon on Bear Jaw Abineau that I didn't want it to end. Studying the sign and map at the trailhead, I decided on one more quick hike, this to Walker Lake. Walker Lake is a bowl-shaped ancient volcanic feature. Like most of the 'lakes' in this area, it is a meadow that floods in a wet year. 

I parked my truck just off Hart Prairie Road and followed a four-digit forest road back toward the lake. An older couple with a camper van were dispersed camping back a little ways. I could have driven back to the lake, but with an unknown four-digit forest road, I didn't want to risk it. These are often not suitable for anything more than a dirt bike or ATV. 

Walker Lake is just a grassy meadow, with a muddy puddle in the center. Despite all the monsoon action as of late, the Kachina Peaks need a winter of solid snowfall.

Regardless, today was a great day and left me wanting to come up to Flagstaff more often to explore the Inner Basin and all the other neat features this area has to offer. 

Kinder Crossing and Blue Ridge

Weather:  72º, humid, clouds, occasional light rain

About this Hike:  I went up to the rim today planning to explore the short, but interesting, hike at Kinder Crossing. I figured afterward I'd hang around along FR-95 and see what other interesting sights there are. 

I parked the truck at the road for Kinder Crossing (95T) where it intersects FR-95. I didn't want to drive far down this rough, muddy road, opting to hike in instead. I reached the rim of East Clear Creek Canyon and took in the panoramic viewpoints. The sky was growing darker and I heard distant thunder. I second guessed if I should return to the truck, but stubbornly hiked down the switchbacks into the canyon anyway. 

A family was in front of me, and I eventually caught up to them. By the looks of their gear, they were headed down to East Clear Creek to go swimming. With recent monsoon rains, I imagine East Clear Creek would be a great swimming spot. The family was none to happy to see me, frequently watching over their shoulders while they stopped to take pictures and just generally block the trail. 

I took some photos of the striking cliffs and rock formations all reflected by the waters of East Clear Creek. The family continued blocking forward progress on the trail, and the skies kept getting louder. I decided I'd seen what I came to see today, and I turned back.

The approximately 1.5 mile hike back to the truck flew by. I hoofed it out quickly, nervous of the greenish-blue tint to the storm clouds. I hoped the family in the canyon would be OK. 

 I reached the truck before the first rain drops began to fall. While FR-95 is as good of a USFS road as you'll ever get, I decided to return to pavement. I drove down to the Moqui Campground turn off and parked at a trailhead for the Arizona Trail (AZT). 

Reading a book and eating lunch, I waited out the storm. Once it seemed to have past, dropping only a little rain, I ventured out on a new-to-me segment of the AZT. From Moqui to the parking area on FR-751 (Blue Ridge Reservoir), I have not explored that segment of the AZT. In fact, I wrote it off as likely being boring. I ended up being very wrong about this. 

This part of the Blue Ridge AZT segment wanders through grassy meadows, green from all the monsoon rain, and healthy ponderosa pine forest (nice to see since most pines along AZ-87 have either burned or succumbed to beetles). The trail passes by Moqui Campground and then goes straight through Blue Ridge Campground, exiting the camping area right next to the host site. 

The trail climbed a volcanic rock formation, opening up into a wide vista. The San Francisco Peaks were visible, as was a body of water. Too shallow to be Blue Ridge Reservoir, I believe what I saw was Long Lake, or one of the other small lakes in that area. 

As I got closer to where the AZT intersects FR-751, I began to hear dogs and people. I know this to be a popular area for dispersed camping. Having hiked south on the AZT from the FR-751 trailhead previously, I opted to turn around. The skies were getting ornery again, and I didn't think there was anything more to see. 

While I dodged a couple thunderstorms, it made for a rain-cooled and pleasant atmosphere on today's hikes. While Payson was getting slammed with storms and hail, it was a surprisingly nice day in the northern part of Rim Country. 

Fred Haught

Weather:  79º and sunny

About this Hike:  About five years ago we explored the Fred Haught Cabin. Back then the Mogollon Rim felt so exotic. Now Rim Country is home, but that still doesn't take away the allure of this unique microclimate in the high country of Arizona. 

After doing Barbershop last weekend, I felt I wanted more of the same for this weekend. Returning to Fred Haught seemed like the perfect solution. 

The hike starts at the General Springs Cabin. This restored cabin is quite possibly the most in-tact of all the Cabin Loops sites. However, the front door has been removed and you can now wander inside. It hasn't been graffitied, set of fire, etc...yet. Inside you can clearly see the log-beam construction. There is a small room at the back of the cabin. 

I carried on with my hike. Fred Haught meanders through meadows carved out by the General Spring. The creek was full of water, and I was surprised to see some sizable fish in the pools. Old-growth ponderosa dominates this landscape, with areas of spruce and fir mixed in. 

The sign that vaguely indicates a half-mile side hike to Fred Haught Cabin is still standing and easily visible. The cabin is nothing more than some rotting timbers arranged in a square and flat rocks stacked to make a fireplace and chimney. I have my doubts that any of this is original construction. 

I decided to follow the Fred Haught Trail a little further. Forest Road 95 ended up being my turnaround point. The area was now grassland with what ponderosas remain in an otherwise heavily logged landscape. 

The repeating cycle of old-growth forest, stream, and meadow along the Mogollon Rim never gets old. I was glad to enjoy this part of Cabin Loop again.

Barbershop Spring Hike

Weather:  70º, sun

About this Hike:  Originally I was going to spend this weekend at South Rim of the Grand Canyon. I was finally going to explore Shoshone Point and South Kaibab. Only the weather didn't cooperate. And work didn't cooperate. I cancelled my prime campsite in Mather Campground and opted to stay home.

Regardless, getting back to Barbershop this spring has been on my short list. With sunny skies, cooler temps, and rain a few days ago, now seemed like a perfect time. The Barbershop trailhead off FR-321 was completely empty. 

We enjoyed the hike thru massive old-growth spruce and fir, mixing with plenty of ponderosa pine. The meadows were green with grass, and Barbershop Creek had some muddy water in it. 

When we reached Barbershop's terminus at Houston Brothers Trail, it was a different scene. Cars filled most all available parking spots along FR-139. Ironically, we saw just one backpacking couple on the trail the entire afternoon. Perhaps everyone was hiking on Houston Brothers. 

This lush ecosystem—largely void of any desert plants—remains a favorite escape on the Mogollon Rim.

Jack's Canyon, Hot Loop, & Horse Mesa

Weather:  69º, sunny

About this Hike:  I am intrigued by Munds Mountain near Sedona. However, hiking Munds appears to involve many miles of hiking to the trail via Jack's Canyon, or a drive over some challenging forest roads that likely aren't suitable for my truck. 

I opted to explore Jack's Canyon / Hot Loop to Horse Mesa instead, thinking this might be a similar alternative. 

The trail starts in typical Sedona red rock. It offers some interesting canyon views while the drainages along the trail still had some standing water. This year is an interesting conundrum in that Sedona is downright hot for January, yet there is still a lot of mud and standing water as we come off a very wet holiday season. Last year at this time Sedona was cooler, but drier too. 

Eventually red rocks give way to the black rocks that define the tops of many of the mesas around Sedona. The foliage changed to high desert. By the time we were on top of Horse Mesa there was a lot of juniper, yucca, and scrubby pinon pines. The soil on the mesa was dry, yet was muddy and stuck to our boots at the same time. 

We visited an overlook and got some views of the immediate area around Horse Mesa. Bell Rock, Cockscomb, and other Sedona landmarks were in full view. Otherwise, local neighborhoods were all that loomed below. 

This was just over the two-mile point. I originally intended to go about four miles, but the map indicated the trail would move to the center of the mesa and away from any viewpoints. It was boring desert scenery, so we opted to turn around and return the way we came. 

Someday with some further research I may check out Munds Mountain. I gather the scenery is better up there, and if there's one thing I've learned, you never run out of new things to explore in Sedona.  

Secret Canyon

Weather:  61º, sunny

About this Hike:  The mystique of Secret Canyon and Secret Mountain Wilderness continues to allure me. Coming off a rainy spell, I decided to hike to Secret Canyon today to see if the waterfall was flowing. I hiked in via Chuckwagon, having parked along the side of the paved Long Canyon Road. Even if FR-152 were open (barricades are up), I would never attempt this in my truck. The mud, the ruts—152 is hardly a road anymore. It's a shame too, because it limits how much of this area one can explore in a day, with at least five extra miles hiking by using Chuckwagon as an access point. 

The Secret Canyon waterfall had decent flow to it today. Being as I reached it by noon, I opted to press on. Every other time I've done this trail circumstances have never allowed me to go much beyond the waterfall. Today that changed. I pressed into Secret Canyon.

There were plenty of creek crossings, although always with solid rock bridges. The creek was flowing enough to be pretty, but not enough to impede crossings. The canyon was cold in spots, with some snow remaining while icicles hung off the red canyon walls. At one point the creek narrowed into a little slot canyon. 

The trail crossed the creek, climbed up above it, and then dropped down to cross again.  This cycle repeated often. Beyond the red canyon walls, this secret area is filled with ponderosa pine and some firs. It is beautiful. However, it does feel very remote, and I had a foreboding sense today. No worries though, the only wildlife I saw was a deer. My footing was always solid. And remote as it feels, Edge of the World sits just above Secret Canyon on the rim top. 

I opted to turn around about halfway into Secret Canyon per the All Trails GPS track. The trail was getting more overgrown and harder to follow. I figured it would just get more treacherous the deeper I went. While old-growth pine and red rocks are beautiful, the scenery was getting to be a little underwhelming. 

The hike out felt endless. I was tired and a little sore. If only the Secret Canyon parking area is where this hike ended with my truck waiting to carry me out on a graded gravel road! There was still close to three miles back along FR-152 and then Chuckwagon. 

With a properly equipped ATV I imagine one can explore a lot more of Secret Mountain Wilderness. Maps indicate miles of forest roads on the rim top near Edge of the World. There are some intriguing trails up there, although I get the impression most of those exist only on maps and in memories these days. I'll be honest—the mystique is wearing off. I'm beginning to think I've seen the best of what I can access in Secret Canyon. 

U-Bar to Dane Spring / Canyon

Weather:  65º, sunny

About this Hike:  Nearly two months ago we hiked Barbershop Trail.  At that time I mentioned the original plan was to hike up to the Dane Spring Cabin--a plan that was quickly scrapped when we began to take in the beauty of Barbershop Trail. 

Hoping to catch some fall color, we decided to return to the rim today to explore U-Bar trail up to Dane Spring. In September we parked at Buck Springs. That weekend the Mogollon Monster 100 race was going on, and the trailhead at FR-321 was a bustling aid station complete with RVs, spectators, and copious amounts of propane to power all the festivities. The 321 road was a different story today. Quiet and peaceful, with just one other car at the trailhead. 

The brief introductory segment of this hike was on Barbershop Trail. It became quickly apparent that fall color was far past peak. The aspens were bare, although a few bigtooth maples clung to their last colorful leaves. 

We turned north at the U-Bar junction and hiked up to the Dane Spring Cabin. It looks like it has gotten some maintenance and reinforcement since I last saw it in June of 2022.

I debated turning around and going back to Barbershop. The massive old growth blue spruces and other conifers in this canyon never cease to amaze me. Instead we pressed on. The trail begins to hug the rim of Dane Canyon. We met a trail runner who advised us we would drop into Dane Canyon just up ahead, and a drop into Barbershop Canyon was still further ahead. 

We opted to check out Dane and Barbershop Canyons. Both looked dark and a bit foreboding from their respective rims, but an easy hike down well-maintained trail took us into forested meadow. Both canyons' creeks had some water. 

The foliage was not as majestic as what is found along the Barbershop Trail. Occasional stands of fir and spruce often gave way to ponderosa, grassland, and pale iron-colored rock and soil. 

Despite the name, Barbershop Canyon past Dane Canyon is not part of the Barbershop Trail. Otherwise, this would have an interesting loop opportunity. We turned around after exploring the bottom of Barbershop and made our way to FR-321. We arrived back to the truck right at sunset as the November air was beginning to get chilly. There was a moonrise and then some opportunities for star gazing. 

It was a beautiful day on the Mogollon Rim. 

Happy Jack Passage 28 of Arizona Trail

Weather:  68º, sunny

About this Hike:  Just over a month ago I explored a segment of the Arizona Trail (AZT) with the goal of seeing Turkey Mountain.  That hike enlightened me to about four more miles of AZT from AZ-87 to the trailhead parking area up along FR-82. 

With clear skies, and this being the first weekend in a while that I'm not dodging rain clouds, I decided today was the day to explore this part of Passage 28 of the AZT. 

I parked just off of 87 after driving through an unlocked cattle gate. The trail starts off in scorched ponderosa pine forest. Unfortunately, this defines the first mile or so of the hike. Many of the blackened trees don't appear to be completely dead. While about two-thirds of the lower needles are brown/orange, the crowns of the trees are still green. I wonder if they'll recover? Even more unfortunate, I believe this was controlled burns set by the USFS. I'll never understand how killing nearly all the trees in an area supports a healthy forest...

Eventually the condition of the forest did improve, although one never needed to look far to find fire-damaged ponderosas. The trail opens up at an overlook above Jack's Canyon and then descends into the canyon. The creeks still have a good amount of water in them from last week's torrential rain, but the few creek crossings were nearly dry and always easy to navigate. 

In the canyon and along the creek was the best part of this hike in my opinion. The shrubbery in the canyon is exhibiting its full display of fall color, and this made for some pretty reflections off the standing pools of water in the creek bed.

After about four easy miles of hiking I reached FR-82, which was my goal for the day. I had previously explored the AZT beyond this point. I briefly considered walking up 82 a ways, turning left at FR-93D and looping back on that. It looks like 93D follows a drainage, and I thought it might be an interesting approximately two mile extension to the hike. I kinda wish I had done it. Likely the extension would be more grassland and ponderosa forest...not that that's a bad thing. Regardless, I opted to make FR-82 my turnaround point. 

At the Hay Meadow Tank not so far from where I started there was a herd of cattle drinking the muddy water. Along with a herd of deer and a tarantula, this completed today's wildlife sightings. 

I continue to enjoy exploring segments of the AZT between Happy Jack and Flagstaff. 

Foggy Fall Mormon Mountain Hike

Weather:  60º, heavy cloud cover, humid

About this Hike:  Just about every weekend for the past month has brought rain. Arizona is receiving a lot of tropical moisture off the Pacific this year in a deluge that reminds me of the falls in 2018 and 2019. Despite the rain, I have found breaks in the downpours long enough to get out and go hiking every weekend. 

In recent past weekends I've noted that despite the rain most creeks and arroyos are dry. This finally changed. With nearly three inches of fresh rain in my backyard gauge this morning, creeks I've never seen flow before were chocolate-milk torrents today. But with radar indicating a break in the rain for most of Saturday, we couldn't keep our boots off the trail.

We opted to drive up to Mormon Mountain between Rim Country and Flagstaff. Not only would the cloudy, damp conditions create unique scenery, but we anticipated some fall color in the aspen stands at the top of the mountain. 

Ours was the only vehicle parked at the Mormon Trailhead parking area at the Dairy Springs Campground. A few brave tent campers were setup in the campground. The peak of Mormon Mountain was hidden by thick, gray clouds. 

The Mormon Mountain trail climbs 1,200 feet, yet it's never very steep. The climb is gradual and without narrow switchbacks and steep inclines. The trail is excellent and receives regular maintenance. I've done this climb once before, but it seems I failed to appreciate the thick, old-growth forest this hike traverses. 

Making it more magical was the damp conditions that are so rare for Arizona. As we climbed higher toward the summit at 8,400 feet we began to get into fog. The fog was like smoke, often swirling around us, but never so thick as to impede visibility. The old-growth trees were covered in pale-green moss. The unique gray light, the fog, and the lichens made this feel like an enchanted—if not slightly creepy—forest. 

The aspen fall color was hit or miss. Some were still green while others were starting to show a few yellow leaves. At the summit was where we found some peak fall color in the aspens. We ate lunch near the communications towers on top and then began the trek down. While we had cell service at the summit we checked the weather. It appeared a thunderstorm may be blowing in, although this never materialized—thankfully. In fact, we experienced no rain the entire afternoon, although the low, gray clouds indicated the heavens could unleash at any moment. 

As we hiked down, we appreciated the warming temperatures compared with the chilly, windy summit. Eventually we got out of the gray clouds that were hugging the top of the mountain. There was even some occasional sunshine breaking through the clouds. We paused at the viewpoint over Mormon Lake. Despite the rain, it's still dry as can be, although now there were a few puddles in the middle. I don't think Flagstaff and the Mormon Lake area received quite as much rain as we did in Payson. 

Today we could have chose to play it safe and stayed home. The weather didn't look promising. But I'm glad we got out. Not only did the weather cooperate, but we got to hike in some conditions that probably come around only once in many months. Today was a beautiful fall hike in an area we've been exploring so often as of late—the stretch between Rim Country and Flagstaff. 

Marshall Lake to Walnut Canyon

Weather:  70º, sunny, windy

About this Hike:  A couple months ago we did a quick day hike in Walnut Canyon. While a pretty area, Walnut Canyon isn't exactly new territory to me anymore. However, I did notice a segment of Arizona Trail intersects Walnut Canyon with a sign reading 'Marshall Lake 4.7 miles.' 

Since we've been exploring segments of the AZT all along Lake Mary Road this summer and fall, I wanted to come back and explore this Marshall-Lake-to-Walnut-Canyon segment. Today was the perfect day weather-wise, so I loaded up the truck and drove up to Flagstaff. 

I parked at Marshall Lake which has a good size parking area for the AZT trailhead. The so-called lake is a big grassy meadow right now. Last week's rain obviously didn't do much for it, but I'm sure it's beautiful when full of water. Perhaps after a wet winter I'll need to return to this area... The area is very popular for dispersed camping, and as usual, I found myself wishing I had small RV or camper van. 

The scenery along the trail looked like pretty much all the other hikes I've done near Lake Mary Road: stands of ponderosa, grasslands, meadows, and the occasional cattle tank. I saw just two other hikers and a few bicyclists. Otherwise, I had the trail to myself. Unfortunately many segments of forest are being actively logged in this area. Large dozer-line roads bisect the landscape while ponderosa logs are piled 20 feet or more high, their mulched branches littering the ground. 

The best scenery by far was the final 1.5 miles before descending into and joining Walnut Canyon. The forest turns more lush. Firs intersperse with the ponderosas. The views open up looking into the canyon, into Flagstaff, and toward the San Francisco Peaks. 

In the canyon and near the junction with the main trail there is a neat sandstone formation. It has a pale pink hue and the typical sandstone striations. There is a little rock overhang that some may want to call a cave. A quick climb up a side trail leads to a mini rock arch / window. 

While not a jaw-dropping hike, this was a fun ~10 mile round trip Saturday afternoon hike. 

Babe Haught Trail

Weather:  67º, mostly cloudy, humid, light showers

About this Hike:  Over the past few weeks I've developed a renewed interest in the Mogollon Rim. I guess I should, considering it's right in my backyard. 

After exploring along Promontory Butte last weekend, I took note of the Babe Haught Trail. Access to this one is easy if you start below the rim. The trailhead parking is along paved FR-289 right at the entrance to the Tonto Fish Hatchery. If you access the trail from the 300 road on the rim, it's a much longer drive—almost all the way to Knoll Lake. 

Rim Country has seen multiple inches of rain in the last week. Friday alone brought two inches to my backyard rain gauge in Payson, and I would imagine the rim got even more. This in part drove my decision to choose a trail with paved-road access. I did not think today was a good day for dirt roads. 

In fact, I wasn't sure today was a good day to go hiking period. The rain chances were still fairly high this morning. The skies were full of grey and white billowy clouds that occasionally broke to let the sun shine through. Even though the rain had let up, I thought the trails may be muddy. 

With brilliant sunshine illuminating Payson by mid morning I couldn't help myself. I opted to give the Babe Haught hike a try. This ended up being one of those rare times where I rolled the dice and won. 

Despite all the rain, the Babe Haught Trail wasn't muddy at all. The ground was a little soft, but this only aided in traction on the steeper sections. And speaking of steepness, compared to the trails I did last weekend—Promontory and Horton Spring—Babe Haught has a more gradual climb up the rim. It's not as vertical as the two aforementioned trails. The trail is mostly exposed and traverses through thick manzanita punctuated by burned juniper stumps. It also goes through a vein of the rim made of red sandstone that I like to call 'Sedona.' 

Upon cresting the rim, I was greeted by a distant elk bugle and enjoyed just over a mile of flat hiking through forest. I imagine somewhere in the distant past this area burned. The ponderosas are younger, albeit not tiny by any means. They're also clustered closely together with their sharp lower branches all intertwined like a forest of razor blades. This reminded me a little of the lodgepole pine growth seen in Yellowstone. 

Babe Haught reaches the 300 road and then crosses over it, indicated by signage. This is where the scenery really became enjoyable. While not quite to the level of my Barbershop Canyon hike a few weekends ago, this part of Babe Haught is full of old-growth firs, occasional spruces, and plenty of ponderosas. The trail began to follow a ravine eventually dropping down. In this little canyon a bull elk was bugling loudly. Gratefully I only heard him but never saw him. I'd rather not encounter bull elks, especially during the fall rut. 

I followed the trail along the creek which was surprisingly dry save for a few pools of standing water. With all the flash flooding we've seen this week in Globe and Phoenix this week, one must wonder where all the water is going on the rim...

The goal of this hike was to reach the southeast fork of Knoll Lake. Speaking of missing water, Knoll Lake is so low that I was able to hike over the sandy creek bed that probably is the lake bottom when the lake is full to capacity.  I'm not sure why this wasn't a muddy mess. Eventually the lake came into view. The water is the lowest I've ever seen it, and more of the namesake knoll in the middle is jutting out. I also spied people on the exposed, rocky shoreline. They were all bundled up in hoodies and jackets as a cool wind was blowing off the lake. 

Knoll Lake was my turnaround point. I pondered how getting to Knoll Lake for kayaking is a long, arduous drive on dirt roads, and yet I can hike it from the bottom of the rim in just under four miles. Up until this time I had enjoyed dry weather. This changed as I left the lake. A few spotty rains gave me a shower, although it was always light and short-lived. Thankfully there was no thunder or lightning. 

As I reached the edge of the rim and was beginning my descent back to Hatchery Trailhead, I watched rain curtains move in from the not-so-distant mountains. When these reached the edge of the rim they formed something of a mist, and the rain was never more than sprinkles. 

I arrived back home in Payson grateful for being able to squeeze in this hike on a day when I wasn't sure conditions would cooperate. In fact, I made it home just in time. As I changed out of my hiking clothes it began to thunder and lightning, all accompanied by an epic downpour. 

Arizona Trail - Turkey Mountain

Weather:  73º, sun

About this Hike:   Today we visited another segment of the Arizona Trail up in the area near Happy Jack. This summer we've been exploring various segments of the Arizona Trail, usually accessed off Lake Mary Road between Payson, Happy Jack, and Flagstaff. 

Today the plan was to visit a place called Turkey Mountain. I didn't expect much from this so-called "mountain," but was also curious why it merits a sign pointing it out from Lake Mary Road. 

I mapped the drive in via Forest Road 93, which is the signed turn-off from Lake Mary to Turkey Mountain. All of the dirt forest roads in this area have been excellent graded gravel. With this being a lower-numbered road (usually more accessible to vehicles per the USFS road numbering guidelines), I expected more of the same. And at first it was... Unfortunately, a few miles in smooth, graded gravel gave way to a narrower, rockier road. It quickly became rutted and with steep stair-step ledges. My Tacoma probably could have handled it. However, I was still three miles from where I intended to join Arizona Trail and start the hike. I didn't have the energy for a drive like this today. 

After studying the map, I opted to return to Lake Mary Road and turn at Forest Road 211 in Happy Jack. This proved to be a good choice. We parked the truck at FR-211 and a short ATV road thru Jack's Canyon. I could have continued up FR-211 and turned onto FR-82, but we short-cutted a big corner by doing it this way, plus I was sick of driving at this point, my legs eager to hit the trail. 

The short hike thru Jack's Canyon was enjoyable as it followed a dry, winding creek bed with some neat rock formations. The ponderosa forest in much of Jack's Canyon seems to have suffered some recent fire damage. Not enough to torch the crowns of the trees, but enough that the younger, smaller ponderosas are all dead now. I dubbed it "Arizona's Black Forest." 

The next segment of the hike involved a walk along FR-82. This was another excellent dirt and gravel road. In retrospect, I wish I would have mapped the FR-211 to FR-82 route and had just done this in the first place, but then I never expected FR-93 to be so bad. 

We walked FR-82 and arrived at a gated trailhead for Arizona Trail. There were a few cars parked there. I really wished at this point we had just driven up...

Regardless, this provded to be an enjoyable segment of Arizona Trail. It was nothing like the 'rainforest' we experienced on the heart of the rim last weekend. Instead of towering spruces, firs, and rocks coatted in moss, this part of the rim is all ponderosa, juniper, and an occasional oak with a grassland floor. Just the same, the grasses have all greened up nicely with the recent rain, although the numerous cattle tanks and creeks in this area were still dry as a bone. 

We eventually reached FR-93 and used that to hike back to Turkey Mountain. A white Toyota Tundra was parked out there, testament to the fact my Tacoma could've done that road. 

The hike along 93 was unpleasant. It was exposed, rough, and rocky. The landscape changed to short, fat junipers and grassland that looked more like high-desert savannah. However, the pines came back into view as we approached Turkey Mountain. With a prominence of about 300 feet, this little knoll was otherwise nothing impressive. Still I wonder, why does it merit a sign from Lake Mary Road pointing it out? Surely there's something special about it? 

We returned the way we came. It was late in the day and the light had changed, giving the forest that unique late-day glow. The hike back was a bit of a slog as were getting sore and tired. We ended up doing about 15 miles round trip which was far more than I had planned for. It was good to experience another segment of the Arizona  Trail today. 

Barbershop Trail

Weather:  70º, showers early, then mostly cloudy

About this Hike:  It's been over three years since I've visited this segment of Cabin Loop. I decided it was time to revisit. 

The original plan was to park at Buck Springs Cabins just off FR-137 and hike Barbershop up to U-Bar and visit the remains of Dane Spring Cabin. We did park at Buck Springs, and we had the entire meadow to ourselves. I found myself wishing we had brought the tents and camping gear...

As we hiked along Barbershop, it became quickly apparent that we wanted to stay on Barbershop. I've already seen Dane Spring Cabin in the past, although my hiking partner had not. 

Regardless, remaining on Barbershop was a good choice. The trail goes from thick forest of towering spruces to grassy meadows to dips into ravines and then back up again. Being as Barbershop was new territory for both of us, I felt seeing the entirety of the trail was far superior to seeing the few remaining logs of Dane Spring Cabin.

When we first started out from Buck Springs, the sun gave way to clouds. Rain showers began when we were in the ravine carved by Sand Creek. We were prepared with rain jackets, and the shower ended up being brief. It made the lush vegetation and mosses around Sand Creek have a certain quality that I named "Arizona Rainforest." 

As we crested out of Sand Creek at FR-321, we came upon a huge gathering of cars, people, and RVs. Turns out the Mogollon Monster 100-mile race was happening on this same Saturday. The gathering on 321 was an aid station. 

While we enjoyed a lot of solitude on this hike, eventually the race runners began to share the trail with us. On the narrower sections of the path we would step aside and give them space, assuming they were trying to make time to the next aid station checkpoint. While Barbershop is a well-marked and well-maintained trail, the orange flags placed along it as race-course markers were helpful too. 

I guess it would technically be a lie to say we completed all of Barbershop. We opted to turn around at FR-139. A short spur of Barbershop continues on, ending at Houston Brothers Trail.

The return hike went by faster than the outbound. When we reached the FR-321 aid station there was loud music, an announcer, and frequent siren blasts. All of this in the middle of the forest was powered by large generators and copious amounts of propane. 

As we made our way down Sand Creek ravine and back to Buck Springs, we could still hear the occasional siren blast. With Mogollon Monster being a 100-miler, I wonder if the noise was to continue all through the night. Maybe camping at Buck Springs wouldn't have been so great after all... 

Regardless, this was a perfect hike on a perfect-weather Saturday. While the 300 road is rough and unpleasant in spots, it makes me wonder why we don't visit the Rim more often; it's right in our backyard now that Payson is home. 

West Clear Creek

Weather:  81º, sun 

About this Hike:  The hike down to West Clear Creek sounded intriguing and the photos of this canyon looked absolutely stunning. 

I researched several trail options including Tramway, but ultimately settled on The Point trail from the West Clear Creek trailhead. This one looked to have the easiest access. 

The forest roads in were bumpy but not too bad. The parking area was pretty full when I arrived in late morning. 

The hike down was easy to follow but very steep. There was definitely some scrambling involved. 

Descending into the canyon, I took my time to appreciate up close the striated rock formations that West Clear Creek is known for. 

Coming off a very dry winter, I wasn't sure what to expect in terms of water level. I wondered if it would be possible to hike along a dry portion of the creek bed. I was wrong on this. There was plenty of water flow in the creek. Plan B was in my hiking pack and included river sandals. I zipped off the pant legs on my convertible hiking pants and put on my sandals. 

I hiked through the creek, never going out further than above my knees in water. I reached a beautiful grotto-like area with towering cliffs, blue-green water, and hanging gardens. At this point I opted to turn around and hike upriver. This proved to be less enchanting. There were beautiful views of striated cliffs and old growth forest. However, there were more big boulders to navigate around. And while I was being extremely careful, the rocks in the creek were often very slippery. I had a few close calls and then finally a few (minor) injuries. I had enough.

Upon reaching the West Clear Creek trail, I sat on a rock to bandage my wounds, dry off, and change my footwear. The steep hike up was the only strenuous part of today's adventure.

West Clear Creek is really pretty, and I know many hikers love hiking, wading, and floating their way through the canyon. But the thing with Arizona waterways is they seldom are easily passable. They quickly go from an easy creekside hike to overgrown with prickly plants, littered with huge boulders, and covered in slick rocks. A treacherous hike like this often makes me reconsider... I don't know if I'll be back anytime soon to do any other West Clear Creek trails.

Wilson Mountain

Weather:  60º, sun and clouds

About this Hike:  My last recorded hike on Wilson Mountain in Sedona was in 2012. It's possible that I did it one other time in the last 12 years and just didn't record it here on this blog.

Regardless, today I decided to visit Wilson again, with the goal of reaching the Sedona Overlook and Canyon Overlook, both at the top of the mountain. Wilson is really more of a high mesa, with the top being flat and offering a few additional miles of hiking to each of the overlook points. 

Back in 2012 I probably hiked without a trekking pole, much less All Trails or any type of hiking GPS. I thought reaching the 'false summit' at the Wilson First Bench was an achievement. In fact the trail to the top goes on for a quite a few more miles beyond the bench. 

Both overlooks were stunning, with views into Oak Creek Canyon to the north and the City of Sedona to the south. The edge is a sheer drop, and I was not willing to get close to it. 

Besides the views at the top, the best part of this hike is actually near the beginning from the north trailhead at Encinoso Picnic Area. The hike goes through a red rock canyon full of maples and old-growth firs, spruces, and ponderosas. Once it climbs out of the canyon, it quickly becomes more exposed with scrub vegetation. 

The top of Wilson has suffered fire damage. Most the pines are gone, with grassland and gamble oak having taken over, between all the charred logs. There are a couple stands of surviving ponderosas near the overlook points; enjoy them while you can. 

Visiting Wilson as a more knowledgeable, more experienced, and better equipped hiker was a fun and rewarding experience. I'm not sure I will be back anytime soon, but I could always check out the Wilson trail on the south side of the mountain. This trail begins at the Midgley Bridge parking area.  

The hike down was steep and rocky--sure made me glad for that trekking pole. This was a challenging hike. Today's route was about 11 miles and 2,500 feet of elevation gain. 

Telephone Trail 72

Weather:  47º, sun, wind

About this Hike:  Many years ago on a hike at West Fork in Sedona I noted the Telephone Trail #72. I guess it slipped out of memory, that is until I spotted the little sign on the side of 89A during a drive up Oak Creek Canyon this week. 

It was chilly, but otherwise a good day for a steep hike. This one gains about 1,000 feet, all over the course of about one mile. The trail is in excellent shape and easy to follow. 

Initially it parallels the trail's namesake: an old utility line. I imagine this is no longer in service, as sections of the wire now lie on the ground right next to the footpath. 

About halfway up there's an interesting formation. Rock arch 'windows' dot a wall of pale sandstone. This is a nice spot to stop for a break. 

The final push to the summit involves hiking on a narrow 'backbone' and then into dense forest. From there, the trail gets extremely steep. The summit is worth the effort though. While still forested, the trees do thin a bit at the summit. There are phenomenal views of the mountains forming Oak Creek Canyon and also the San Francisco Peaks to the north. The beginning of West Fork is also very visible. There is a sheer drop off, if you're willing to get near the edge. 

The hike down is treacherous. I took my time, often using the traction offered by pine needles and fallen logs next to the trail. This was opposed to keeping my feet on the loose gravel and dirt path. At one point I crouched and did a controlled slide down. 

This hike packs a lot into about two miles round trip, both in effort and reward. It definitely felt like more than just two miles. 

O'Leary Peak

Weather:  55º, sun

About this Hike:  I've wanted to check out O'Leary Peak near Flagstaff for a while now. Seems like every time I start planning it, something ends up railroading my plans. 

Today was a completely spur-of-the-moment trip. My truck needed dealer service, so I decided to take it to the Toyota dealer in Flagstaff. I learned this morning that I could rent a Toyota from the dealer while my truck was in for service (I remember a time when service loaners were complimentary!). I took my truck in early, rented a Corolla, and then drove up to O'Leary Peak Trailhead. 

In late December I would expect Flagstaff and its higher elevations to be buried in snow. But this year it is in the 50s and sunny. Even the San Francisco Peaks had but small patches of snow on them. While not good for Arizona's water supply and fire risk, I opted to take advantage of the unseasonable temps. 

O'Leary Peak Trailhead is right before the Sunset Crater National Monument. The trail to the peak is a road that rangers use to access the fire lookout at the summit. It's a decent road composed of colorful volcanic cinders. It only gets rutted and steep at the very end. That said, don't plan on driving it. Far as I know, the gate stays closed and is only opened when a ranger passes through enroute to the tower. 

I've read this is a boring hike due to it following a road. I would have to beg to differ. The hike starts out with amazing views of an old lava flow. If you don't feel like paying for Sunset Crater entrance, this is a great way to enjoy some similar scenery for free. The ancient lava is contrasted by ponderosa pine and aspens. About two miles up lookout for an old mine shaft. I wish I would've taken some time to poke my head in, but those old shafts always make me nervous. They seem like ready-made mountain lion dens.

Ascending the road, the views into the geological features that make up Sunset Crater become more apparent. Ancient volcanic mountains with crater-like depressions in the middle become ever more visible. The San Francisco Peaks are visible to the southwest, while Grand Canyon may be visible to the northwest. 

There is a large fire lookout at the summit along with some nice rocks for seating areas. The shutters were rolled down on the tower, but the staircase was open. I opted not to climb it. I have extreme fear of heights, and as neat of an experience as going up those towers is, the see-thru metal grate stairs freak me out. 

I signed the log book and enjoyed the views from the summit for a bit to get rested up. I had conquered five miles and 2K feet of elevation gain to summit O'Leary is just over an hour. I was paying by the hour on that rental car and so time was of the essence. 

The trip down took about the same amount of time. I found it a lot less punishing on my feet than the typical rough, rocky trail descent can be. Chalk it up to that relatively smooth cinder/gravel road. 

I thoroughly enjoyed this hike and was so happy to finally check this one off the list. 

Fossil Creek via Bob Bear

Weather:  45º, clouds, sun, wind

About this Hike:  Usually I'm a planner when it comes to hikes. However, this one was decided upon last-minute over breakfast this morning. 

We originally talked about driving toward Camp Verde and checking out West Clear Creek. The longer drive, colder temperatures, and numerous water crossings didn't appeal to us. 

That's when Fossil Creek via Bob Bear Trail popped into my mind. I've wanted to do this hike for a while now. Being that Bob Bear is closer to Payson, and it's the off-season when permits aren't required, this seemed like the perfect hike for today.

We arrived at Bob Bear Trailhead in late morning. It was full, save for a few parking spots in an overflow area. I was immediately struck by the beauty of this canyon. The red rocks look like they belong in Sedona. As we made our way down toward Fossil Creek I noted more and more fall color. 

Warning signs at the trailhead state this trail doesn't lead to the waterfall. I'm not sure what waterfall this is referencing as the trail mostly certainly leads to Fossil Spring and then joins Flume Trail. There are actually a few waterfalls to enjoy. 

Finally I got to see up close the crystal-clear turquoise water and hanging gardens that Fossil Creek is known for. 

There is one large waterfall. It mostly drains into a pool below, but part of it drains into a round hole. A placard on the rocks warns to 'Keep out of the toilet bowl.' There was also a cave in one of the pools. Despite the cold temperatures that kept my hands in gloves most of this hike, part of me really wanted to go for a swim. Some people were swimming—cold water and air temperatures be damned! 

It was slightly warmer at the canyon bottom. I'd estimate in the low 50's. Our hike back up was uneventful and went by quickly. We enjoyed the changing light on the cliff faces. By the time we reached the parking lot at the top of the canyon it was windy and very cold. I quickly felt frostbite setting into my hands; my gloves being of little help. 

I know this is a popular summer swimming spot. So popular that permits are required in the warmer months. But hiking Fossil Creek in the off-season has it's own unique beauty—especially when there's fall color. 

Bob Bear left me wanting to explore all the other Fossil Creek trails on the Camp Verde side... 

Turkey Spring and W. Webber via Milk Ranch Point

Weather:  90º, sunny

About this Hike:  All the guides I read to this hike talked about starting at the Geronimo Boy Scout camp and hiking up the Rim. While undoubtedly a great hike, there are conflicting reports on how to even access the trailhead, with restrictions placed on some access points by the camp.

I decided instead to hike this top-down by starting at Milk Ranch Point on the Rim. I parked near the Turkey Springs trailhead off FR-218. Across the road is a meadow called Dickenson Flat. A cool feature on the flat is a large sign made of white-painted rocks. It reads, "PHX → 75," and is intended for airplanes heading down to Sky Harbor. It's also readily visible on satellite images. 

The hike down Turkey Springs started in nice forest. It quickly gave way to exposed hillsides and manzanita scrub. The trail is a steep hike down, albeit just short of two miles to the Webber junction. The views of the Rim are fantastic—almost Grand Canyon-esque in places. 

I chose to use the Webber trail for the hike back up the Rim because unlike Turkey Spring, Webber has a lot more shade. Webber is in a lush canyon of maple, oak, spruce, fir, and ponderosa. Tree cover provided a welcome respite from the hot sun. A trickling creek paralleled the trail for a while. 

Webber trail is only about two miles back up to FR-218. The elevation gain is steady at first, but when you hit the switchbacks it really intensifies. I'd say most of the ~1,600 feet is gained on these switchbacks. The steepness and heat forced me to take this hike slow and take in the scenery. The sides of the Rim are so steep here; it's incredible a trail was able to be built at all.

Once back on top of the Rim, the forest changes quickly. Gone are the spruces and firs, replaced by less dense ponderosa pine and grassland. I reached the 218 road and followed it for a mile back to where I was parked. While closing the loop with a road is typically not enjoyable, this one wasn't too bad. Sections of the road were shaded. I scoped out numerous potential camping spots along the way. 

My final stop was a walk through the aforementioned Dickenson Flat. Doing this hike using Turkey Spring for the descent and Webber for the ascent was perfect. Despite hot weather, I thoroughly enjoyed today's excursion.