Back to Barnhardt Six Years Later

Weather:  55°, sunny

About this Hike:  Six years ago we came and explored Barnhardt Trail 44 for the first time. After January 2018 hike we stayed up in Payson and commented on what a dumpy town it seemed to be. Ironically enough, Payson is now home (and it's actually a pretty nice place). Barnhardt Trail is just a 20 mile drive from home, and after exploring Rock Creek and numerous other area trails this past fall, I decided it was time to get back to Barnhardt. For one, Barnhardt is well-maintained and showcases some of the Mazatzal's best geology, plant life, and scenery. Other area trails are often extremely steep, overgrown, and just not as scenic. 

With multiple days of rain earlier this week (snow in the higher elevations), and now a warm up, I knew today would be perfect conditions to visit Barnhardt again. The creek and waterfall were sure to be flowing. In fact, they did not disappoint. 

In 2018 the waterways were but a trickle. I even noted back then a large, black rock wall that I assumed would be a waterfall in wetter conditions. I called it a 'false' waterfall. While not a rushing cascade, it was a beautiful, vertical stream today. Shortly beyond this is the main attraction:  the Barnhardt waterfall. I noted in 2018 a rope one could use to climb the waterfall. That rope appears to be gone as of 2024.

The water was rushing out of the fissure in the rock, cascading down the red-purple quartzite, and collecting in blue-grey pools. While a strong flow, there were plenty of large boulders and shallow parts for hiking across. I was able to get up close to the waterfall. In the rock grotto above the main falls is another cascade that works its way down the curving chute. It was stunningly beautiful.

Beyond the falls the trail climbs and scenery gives way to what I believe is about a 20-year old burn scar. The area has long been reclaimed by manzanita and gamble oak. A charred stump here and there reminds you that this may have been forested at one time. And that's where I opted to turn around. Wrinkly emerald hills and ridges cover the landscape, beckoning you to keep hiking around the next bend. However, the manzanita forest gets boring quickly. I came to enjoy Barnhardt Canyon today, and so I turned back. 

Hiking back through the canyon was a whole different experience. You're seeing things from a different perspective. The light has shifted and is different now on the canyon walls. The creek was flowing strong deep in the canyon below. The rock formations and zig-zags in the canyon wall make for unique and stunning geology. 

I've said Barnhardt is some of the best the Mazatzals have to offer. Today's hike just reinforced this notion.

Y Bar Trail #44

Weather:  55°, sunny

About this Hike:  It seems like in December / January I often end up hiking in the upper Mazatzal Mountains. If you luck out with weather, it can be reasonably warm during the day, but not overly hot this time of year.  The temperature plummets quickly once the sun is behind canyon walls and then sets for the day.  An added bonus is rain / snow in the mountains can make for flowing springs.  Today was just such a day. 

Back in March when I explored Mt. Peeley and Mazatzal Divide, I noted more trails across a distant valley.  I did some research and learned this was likely Y Bar Trail #44.  In fact about five years ago I explored Barnhardt Trail, which splits with Y Bar to form a loop around the circumference of Mazatzal Peak.  Both trails are accessed from the same Barnhardt Trailhead.

While I had no plans to complete the entire nearly 15 mile loop, I did want to explore the Y Bar side of the mountain.  I had observed Douglas firs in the old-growth forests along Mazatzal Divide.  I was hoping to find some similar foliage along this hike, and Y Bar did not disappoint.  The forested areas began after several miles of climbing.  The entire elevation gain for this hike can easily be 3,000+ feet.  However, Y Bar trail is well-worn and seldom overly steep.  The elevation gain is steady, but not grueling.  The rockiness of the trail does require some extra care with footing, especially on the way down. 

The Mazatzals reach higher than the Superstitions.  The canyons and valleys are every bit dramatic, and the views are composed of wrinkly mountains covered in green foliage.  There aren't as many rock spires and needles as the Superstitions.  Some of Y Bar trail traverses old rock slides.  These are made of what looks like the most beautiful landscaping rock, but it was landscaped by mother nature.  There are narrow canyons that feel like nature's refrigerator, with cold, moist air seeping out all around.  There are sun-drenched ridges of manzanita that are often a welcome warm-up after hiking through the aforementioned icebox canyons.  

An observation we made five years ago on Barnhardt was the lack of wildlife.  Even birds chirping was a rarity.  The Y Bar ecosystem seems to also mirror this theme.  You would expect this to be bear and mountain lion country (and I'm sure it is), but evidence of these animals is almost non-existent on the trail.  The scariest encounter I had was with a fighter a jet.  Airmen from Luke AFB must've been practicing over the Mazatzals.  This extremely loud sound of thunder filled the canyon I was in.  I covered my ears in pain and crouched down--as if this would've done any good.  Panicked, I looked skyward to see a fighter jet crest over the ridge and then zoom away.  I had to take a break to stop shaking.  With how volatile the world is right now, this incident gave me quite a panic.  Or, it could have been one of those aforementioned rockslides...either way, not good. 

We traversed some beautiful, thick old-growth forest.  The smell of pine hung heavy in the air.  This was by far my favorite part of Y Bar.  Like most Arizona forests, these sections of dense tree cover never lasted long enough.  We reached a seasonal spring that was flowing a bit.  There were impressive views of Mazatzal Peak and down into what I believe was Shake Tree Canyon.  This marked the turnaround point. 

Last December we explored not-so-far-away South Fork Trail 46. In comparison, Y Bar was a far better hike in my opinion.  A big gripe about South Fork is that it is active cattle ranching land.  The herds of cattle and all their cow pies made parts of this hike unpleasant.  I'm also very fearful of livestock--more so than wild animals.  Cows can kick.  Bulls can charge.  

Last night we wrapped up about 30 minutes after sunset.  We were prepared for this and had headlamps.  Speaking of wildlife, we scared quite a few birds that were roosting in trees for the overnight. Getting back to the trailhead after dark and observing the star-studded black skies away from the valley is always a treat.  It was a great day in the Mazatzals.