Monsoon Desert Hike - Canyon of the Waterfalls

Weather:  75º, humid, clouds, rain

About this Hike:  Since its recent rise in social media popularity, I've become intrigued by Canyon of the Waterfalls in the Superstition Mountains. Located on the periphery of Lost Dutchman State Park off First Water Road, I've driven by this trailhead countless times without ever noticing it. 

My plan was to visit this area in the cooler months. An active monsoon this week meant cooler temps and the potential for the waterfalls to be flowing. The stars seemingly aligned for a unique desert hike during an otherwise unthinkable time of year. 

I left Payson early, fearing many others would have the same idea as me. I expected full parking along First Water Road, and I anticipated a possible muddy mess along the road. 

Upon arrival at the waterfall trailhead, I scored the last available parking spot. The road was fairly dry, and the wash that comes right after the waterfall parking area was also dry. This was despite the fact it was still raining.

I parked the truck and wondered if I should have brought my rain jacket. The rain was steady, but not heavy, and there was no lightning or thunder. The jacket would have just made me too hot. As it goes with summer rains in the desert, it never cools things down that much, but it sure does drive the humidity high. 

I found this hike to be challenging to stay on trail. As I neared the first of the rock formations, I noted a lot of slippery black rock that I had to hike up. The slickness was exacerbated by the steady rain. I feared what coming down was going to be like. While wet rocks are inherently slick, I was surprised to find that I had good traction. 

I pressed on past the rock formations, losing the trail and having to search for it several times with my hiking GPS. I followed the trail into a wash that was dry. A large rock outcropping stained black had to be navigated around. I assumed this to be one of the waterfalls, and it was definitely not flowing. 

Beyond this first waterfall, I reached a slick, steep scramble. It wasn't long, nor completely vertical, but I watched other hikers having a terrible time coming down it. Once they passed I gave it a go. The rain was picking up, adding to my overall nervousness. Having hiked in about two miles at this point, I made the tough decision to turn around. 

From a higher point on the trail, I used my binoculars to look up-canyon. I got the impression that the wash in the canyon wasn't flowing much, despite all the recent rain. One of the hikers I encountered at my turnaround point also confirmed this by calling the rest of the hike, "A would-be river." 

Shortly after turning around, the rain stopped. I followed a couple of other hikers who took a path around the slick rocks that I climbed up on the way in. This path stuck to mostly gravel and offered far better traction. This is what happens when you're hiking on an unofficial trail and relying on the footprints of those who've gone before you. 

I'm not sure if I made the right call or not by turning around. Shortly after I turned back, the rain stopped. The trail was already well on its way to drying out by the time I was back at the trailhead. A picture I found on AllTrails dated from the last couple days does show the waterfall up-canyon flowing a bit. While I can be a stubborn individual and keep pressing on in less-than-ideal circumstances, I also can be overly cautious at times. A YouTube video of this hike also indicated there may have been a narrow ledge, rock-wall clinging, and a sheer drop further up-canyon. I am very limited by my extreme fear of heights in such scenarios.  

Maybe one day I'll come back. Perhaps I'll try the waterfall canyon again on a combined trip with another relatively unknown trail in the area that has recently earned social media fame:  Triple Arch Trail.

Webber Weekend

Weather:  85º clouds and sun, humid

About this Hike:  This weekend consisted of two hikes:  West Webber Canyon on Friday and then East Webber Canyon on Saturday. 

I've visited West Webber a couple times previously. Since the relatively low-grade fire that went thru there in September of 2024, I wanted to see how the area is recovering. It's never total decimation, and there's plenty of healthy forest left. Around West Webber creek the bigtooth maples and other deciduous trees are  growing in thick. The weather was cloudy and humid for this hike, although it never rained. 

I encountered some cattle in West Webber Canyon, including a protective bull watching over the herd and calves. I gave him plenty of space, and oddly enough, seemed to find a side trail. Some of the trees were pink-tagged while large, black lengths of PVC hose piping were run along the creek. It definitely was not unexplored territory. 

If I had the time, I could have continued on Geronimo Trail to East Webber, but Friday was just a quick afternoon hike. I came back today (Saturday) and opted to start East Webber by parking below the rim at Geronimo Trailhead. The first 2.7 miles of this hike follow what looks like old roads that are fairly exposed and hot. You're bypassing the private property perimeter around Geronimo Camp. Cutting thru the camp would be a great shortcut, as they've built their own trail access. If only...

I guess we can thank the Geronimo Campers (I believe its Boy Scouts) for the trail markers along Webber trails. These far exceed the standard used by the USFS to mark trails. Not to mention, I believe Geronimo campers do some maintenance on these trails, too. 

Regardless, I reached the entrance to East Webber and then the real fun began. This area also suffered a fire a few years ago. Much like West Webber, fire damage seems to be minimal with plenty of healthy and in-tact forest to enjoy. The scenery is often old-growth ponderosa, spruce, and fir. Their trunks are blackened, yet the crowns are green and healthy. The forest floor was alive with a green carpet of ferns. 

The trail meanders along Webber Creek, crossing a few times. The creek was flowing good today, although not so much as to make crossings difficult. The trail began to get a little more overgrown, and I reached a yellow sign indicating 'Swimming Hole.' In fact there was a nice pool of water with a trickling waterfall. This made a good lunch break spot.

Beyond the swimming hole the trail begins to deteriorate quickly. The map indicates it may go on a bit further, but I wasn't about to go bush whacking. The overgrown canyon had an eerie feel to it, and I figured there was a reason the GPS track stopped here. 

I made good time on the hike back, spurred on by a looming thunderstorm on top of the rim. Eventually I got rained on, but it was a welcome respite on what was a hot day for hiking. Regardless, I'm glad to have enjoyed both ends of Webber Canyon. 

Haigler Creek Falls

Weather:  79º, sun, windy

About this Hike:  After this plan going sideways two weeks ago, today was finally my chance to explore the Haigler Creek Recreation Area. 

The plan for today consisted of two hikes. The first of these involved going a mile or so past the Haigler Creek neighborhood and exploring an area on the outskirts of Hellsgate Wilderness. On satellite imagery and thru my binoculars, I've observed large, white squares in Hellsgate. I wanted to see one of these up close, and found one just past Haigler. The infrastructure in question is a large water catchment device for wildlife. I hiked a bit past the water catchment, as my satellite-imagery research led me to think this could be an interesting ridge with some viewpoints. It was a flat hike along a ridge with some views down toward Young and distant meadows. The most scenic thing about it was the cholla cactus that were in full bloom with bright magenta flowers and clusters of yellow fruit. 

The Hellsgate hike was just a warmup. My next stop was Haigler Creek with the intent to hike to the famed Haigler waterfall. The trail to the waterfall is actually an active road, but it's in rough shape. With plenty of parking available just off FR-200, I opted to hike in. There were plenty of ATVs, but also a surprising number of trucks and SUVs, most of which were lifted, had off-road tires, etc. 

I got a little off course while following the All Trails map. It showed me off trail, despite the fact I was following the road. I wasted some time hunting for the GPS track on the map--an ever-moving target--thinking it was a side trail off the main road. Finally I gave up and just opted to follow the road. Eventually I rejoined the All Trails route track.

 As I got deeper into the canyon, the forest of ponderosa and fir became more and more dense. Descending a steep hill, the waters of Haigler Creek came into view. 

Every camp spot along the creek was occupied. The creek had decent flow, and plenty of inviting pools, which campers were taking full advantage of. I pressed on toward the falls, negotiating three creek crossings. The path continued to be an ATV road, yet at times it would disappear, only to reappear a little further downline. I assumed ATVs drive in the creek bed for these stretches. 

Speaking of the creek bed, it quickly went from flowing to dry, chalky rocks. The reddish canyon walls were impressive, but the dry creek bed did not bode well for the falls. Just before the falls, I was delayed while a convoy of Jeeps made their way out of the canyon. I could not believe street vehicles, no matter how lifted, made it all the way back here. Even more nerve wracking was watching them navigate the rocks, getting the Jeeps on crazy angles. 

The falls were unmistakable, but the only evidence of water was a muddy pool at the base. Regardless, I enjoyed the thick forest and plant life along the wetter portions of Haigler Creek. I'm glad to finally have explored this area. 

Walnut and Two Ravens Loop

Weather:  75º, mostly cloudy

About this Hike:  The plan today was to explore some trails down near Haigler Creek. Unfortunately, a crash—and subsequent road closure—on 260 threw a wrench in those plans. Rather than waste nearly $5/gallon fuel, we decided to pivot and head north toward Pine.

I explored Walnut Trail a few weeks ago. At that time, I stuck to the part of Walnut that runs in tandem with the Arizona Trail. However, I was curious what the path would look like if I continued north on Walnut. I was also intrigued by a brand new trail called Two Ravens. 

While Two Ravens is so new it doesn't appear on most maps yet, I was able to determine that northern Walnut could be looped by starting at Hardscrabble Road and using Two Ravens as a connector. This also allowed for a hike to Oak Spring. 

In fact, the northern part of Walnut is some of the best this trail system has to offer. It follows a dry creek through a riparian canyon. Tall ponderosas provide some shade, while gamble oak and bigtooth maple had me already planning a return hike in the fall. Eventually we reached Oak Spring. From there, we used the Arizona Trail to climb out of the canyon and junction with Two Ravens. 

Two Ravens is a nice, groomed path. I noticed two other new trails called Bradshaw and Waterfall—both of which junction with Two Ravens. Since you're right up against the land boundaries with the town of Pine, I doubt these trails go very far. They still may be worth investigating. 

This 4.6 mile loop ended back at Hardscrabble road. It definitely wasn't what I planned for this weekend, but it was better than just turning around and going home. 

Return to Bear Flat

Weather:  65º, mostly cloudy

About this Hike:  We've wanted to return to Bear Flat since first visiting in early November of last year. Today was finally our chance. 

After parking at the trailhead outside the private Bear Flat neighborhood, we carefully crossed Tonto Creek. In general, flow was lower today than it was in November. The water crossings on FR-405 were mostly dry today.

Despite having learned a lesson about how to follow the main Bear Flat trail last time, we still managed to get a little off course at the start. We stayed parallel to the fence that marks the land boundary. We kept paralleling it, even as it got steeper and steeper. Finally, I realized this was wrong. A quick check of hiking GPS and we were able to get back on course relatively quick. Even on the correct trail, the hike out of Tonto Creek and Bear Flat is no picnic...it's extremely steep. 

We continued past Mescal Ridge, picking up were we left off last time. The pine forest only got thicker. And it stayed that way. I was amazed at the density of healthy ponderosa pine and fir trees in this area. It feels like this should be up on the Mogollon Rim. 

Last November we also visited the southern end of the Bear Flat trail near Haigler Creek. I observed the same dense pine forest down there. I just didn't realize that it extended all the way north along Bear Flat Trail, especially with so much of Hellsgate Wilderness being more high desert vegetation. 

During that southern Bear  Flat hike, I also mentioned wanting to reach Horse Mountain. Today we made it to Horse Mountain, but it was nothing distinct. Rather the trail (more like the typical Hellsgate ATV road) wrapped around the side of Horse Mountain. I could look up the steep hill and see dense pine forest. 

At the 5.5 mile mark from Bear Flat is where the vegetation finally opened up. We got some views to the south with Tonto Basin, Sierra Ancha Wilderness, and Four Peaks coming into view. The ridgeline of Christopher Mountain to the northeast was also a distinct feature. Otherwise, the vegetation on this hike often obscured any potential viewpoints. The trail was going to begin a steep drop beyond this point. We opted to make this our turnaround. 

Since last fall we've done a lot of day hikes around Hellsgate. I would like to see a part of Hellsgate called Salt Canyon. In that area I've observed a large, white piece of infrastructure thru binoculars. It may be some type of water catchment device. I'm definitely intrigued. However, unless I get into overnight backpacking, some of the deeper parts of Hellsgate may not be easily accessible via a day hike. 

Arizona Trail Passage 25 - Walnut Trail 251

Weather:  67º, mostly cloudy, windy

About this Hike:  I needed some nature time this Sunday afternoon. I decided to check out a hike I've bookmarked near Pine. The plan was to hike along Arizona Trail (AZT) Passage 25 down to an area called Oak Spring. 

Rather than park at the 'official' trailhead for this hike at the Pine Trailhead, I opted to utilize a dirt road on the west side of 87 so I could avoid having to cross 87 from the trailhead. This also would put me closer to the segment of AZT that I intended to hike. Overall this was a good strategy, although the road was a little rutted and bumpy. 

Despite being close to Pine neighborhoods, this hike felt more remote. As I left rooftops and ranches behind, it began to feel a lot more remote. I crossed a small, trickling creek and then several other dry ones. That canyon that contains Oak Spring came into view. It is an impressive canyon, easily accessed by the well-maintained AZT. While this is part of the AZT, a junction sign indicated the official trail name to be Walnut Trail (#251). 

The canyon area is a lush riparian environment. Ponderosa pines again come into view, having faded for a bit on the more desert portion of this hike between here and the trailhead. The first creek in the canyon was dry. Bigtooth maples have just put on their spring leaves...something I made a mental note of for this fall. A little further into the Oak Spring canyon revealed a sign and side trail to its namesake. The spring was tricking and the spring box was full. I also checked out a grassy meadow directly up the bank from the spring. 

Having reached this area in about an hour, I decided to hike on a little further. I climbed out of Oak Spring and hiked the AZT along the top of what seemed to be a mesa. There were good views to the south of Houston Mesa, Granite Dells, and the Mazatzals. The environment up here was rocky and high desert grassland, yet the juniper, gamble oak, and occasional pinion pine were surprisingly thick. 

Seeing another riparian-looking area with ponderosa pines ahead, I opted to press on a little further. At this point the trail became what was clearly an old two-track road. A utility line bisected the trail overhead. I hiked through the riparian area, climbed again, and opted to make this my turnaround point. This was 4.5 miles, making for a nine-mile Sunday afternoon out-and-back today. 

Sunflower Mine and Cornucopia

Weather:  79º, sunny

About this Hike:  I thoroughly enjoyed my hike a few weeks ago at Saddle Mountain along Passage 22 of the Arizona Trail (AZT). So much so, that I began plotting a continuation hike just as soon as I got home. 

Originally I considered driving FR-25 to Mormon Flat TH and continuing along Passage 22 from there. Instead, I created a route that involved parking at the FR-25 / 25A junction, hiking the road 3.5 miles, and then doing a loop of similar length using Thicket Trail and Cornucopia Trail, which is part of the AZT. I would skip a couple miles of Passage 22, but I'm not sure there's much to see beyond Saddle Mountain. 

I find it amazing that anyone can drive in on FR-25A. Even with a lifted Jeep or ATV, there are some insane rock walls and obstacles. Surprisingly, about a mile in I crossed a bridge. The guardrails and signage didn't look that old. I read this bridge was rebuilt in the 1990s.

I imagine 25A was a much better road sometime in decades past. This road leads to the abandoned Sunflower Mine, which I stopped to visit. An old tumbler pipe and some concrete foundations are all that remain, although I read structures and artifacts were still on the site as recent as 2012, just prior to that year's Sunflower Fire. 

Beyond the mine, the hike went into lush riparian sycamore and cottonwoods that flank Sycamore Creek. There were rocks all shades of the rainbow, especially blue-green and red cinnabar-studded stones. Unfortunately this part of the hike was not enjoyable. The gnats were the worst I've ever experienced. I was rushing through this area hoping that hotter, more exposed terrain would offer some relief from the bugs. 

There was short-lived relief from the gnats at the junction for Thicket Trail which I opted to follow first and clockwise, closing the loop via Cornucopia Trail. I expected Thicket would live up to its name, and it did. Thicket isn't so much a trail as it is just a narrow drainage. It got more overgrown and the gnats came back. I was not enjoying it at all, and it had a creepy vibe. I turned back.

Upon reaching the junction, I was getting tired, but opted to go up Cornucopia. Since this is part of the AZT, it gets much better maintenance. Mount Peeley loomed not so far ahead. Old growth firs and ponderosa pine came into view. The bugs weren't as bad. I intended to only go a short ways on Cornucopia. Thirty minutes later I was at the junction with Thicket. Only there was no Thicket Trail there, just a sign and lots of overgrowth. Skipping the Thicket portion of what would have been a lollipop loop was the right choice. I'm not one for bushwhacking. 

Mount Peeley parking area was 1.5 miles according to the junction sign. The hot, exposed manzanita-covered switchbacks did not appeal to me. Plus, I've been up to Mount Peeley a couple times in the past, so this wouldn't be any new scenery. I made this my turnaround point with five miles back to the FR-25 / 25A junction. 

The hike out went fast as I fought my way thru flocks of gnats, failing to enjoy the riparian scenery that I otherwise love. Despite some challenges, this was an enjoyable Mazatzals hike. 

Saddle Mountain: Passage 22 of Arizona Trail

Weather:  79º, sunny

About this Hike:  Still coming off the high from last week's enjoyable hike near Buckhorn Mountain, a thought hit me:  "What kind of hiking is there near Sunflower? Doesn't the AZT run down that way?"

A little research and planning later, and I had a hike in mind for this unseasonably warm weekend. Honestly, I probably could have gone up on the Mogollon Rim and been comfortable this weekend. Instead, I headed to lower elevation, knowing that the clock is fast running out for hiking weather down there.

All week I debated whether I should access Saddle Mountain - Passage 22 of the AZT from the Cross F Ranch Trailhead (McFarland TH on Google Maps) or the Mormon Grove Trailhead.  The point of contention was that Mormon Grove spits you out right at the namesake Saddle Mountain.  It also requires some dirt road driving.  Cross F has paved-road access but requires about five miles and 2,000 feet of elevation gain to reach Saddle Mountain. I was uncertain if this five mile hike was going to be interesting or just traverse exposed high-desert grassland. 

I ultimately chose the easier access afforded by Cross F trailhead. The trail here is called Little Saddle Mountain.  Being part of the AZT, it is very well maintained.

Little Saddle ended up being a great choice. While I definitely felt the elevation gain, it was never overly steep nor treacherous.  The entire hike featured some colorful geology. Rocks of every hue—blue, grey, quartz, red, purple, etc. cover the landscape. 

And when I wasn't in rocky spots, I was traversing riparian areas. Some of the creeks had a little water in them, while others were dry. There were sycamore trees and granddaddy pinion pines. Unfortunately, being late winter / early spring, there were a ton of gnats in the riparian areas. 

A much nicer thing that spring brings out: desert wildflowers. These were all shades of orange, red, yellow, and purple. There was one particularly showy strawberry hedgehog cactus. The hillsides were covered in fragrant shrubs sporting tiny white flowers. I called these honeysuckle, although AI tells me they are cliffrose. One of the riparian areas even had a few golden columbines growing in it. I was shocked to see these at ~3,800 feet. They usually grow in the forests on the Mogollon Rim. 

After studying the topographical map of this hike, I wasn't certain what kind of views I would enjoy. I figured more than likely hills an shrubbery would hide most views. That said, I was aware that Bartlett Lake and the lower Verde River were just a few miles west as the crow flies.  

Upon cresting a ridge, the Verde River canyon came into view, although the water wasn't visible. The McDowell Mountains came into view, confirming that the rooftops I could see were in fact North Scottsdale. The Sierra Estrellas were even visible, poking up through the smog soup that is the Phoenix Valley. 

I pressed on to the namesake Saddle Mountain. Along the way I enjoyed views of a mountain that had pale white cliffs banded with a deep-red vein below it. It was even deeper red than the rocks of Sedona.

Eventually Saddle Mountain came into view. It is certainly a tall peak, although there really wasn't much else to see. The better views, in my opinion, were of the hills directly east. Views of Mount Ord and green rolling hills topped with fiery red-orange rock peaks. 

A chalky rock formation at Saddle Mountain was my turnaround point, this marking just over five miles from the start. There was a side trail with an AZT sign posted that indicated the side trail was not part of the main path. I decided to venture down this. Tall trees quickly came into view, indicating water was nearby. This short jaunt led to a flat, grassy meadow. I'd love to know more on the story surrounding this spot...

The weather had changed a bit since when I started. Gone was the hot, intense sun. A welcome cool breeze and some clouds had rolled in. The light was completely different on the way back down. I noticed Red Mountain, Superstition Mountain and Weaver's Needle down below along with some buildings in Mesa. Poking up through the smog was the unmistakable shape of Mt. Lemmon and the Catalinas all the way down in Tucson. 

Ultimately, I am glad I chose to do this route today. I did pass the junction for the Mormon Grove Trailhead.  I think I will come back and utilize that trailhead to hike further north on Passage 22. Eventually it reaches Mount Peeley, an area I am already quite familiar with exploring. 

Buckhorn Mountain via Four Peaks Trail 130

Weather:  79º, sunny

About this Hike:  Spring has sprung early this year. Last weekend I was on my kayak at Apache Lake. From the lake I saw a looming mountain with a green peak. Buckhorn Mountain is its name, and I had researched it about a year ago. I was even more intrigued by the fact there's a designated wildlife research area near the top. 

Buckhorn looked to be an achievable hike using Four Peaks Trail 130 / Arizona Trail from the Mills Ridge Trailhead. This hike was relatively short, but with significant elevation gain. The weather is only getting hotter this spring, so I figured today was the day to visit Buckhorn.

The drive up Mills Ridge (FR-429) was easy. It's about five miles on good, packed dirt with only a few bumpy areas. At the trailhead I happened to run into a social media couple that posts about all things Arizona hiking. I said hello, but they didn't say much, seeming to be in a hurry to leave. Per their social media, they had camped up there the night before. 

At the start of the hike I was treated to desert wildflowers popping everywhere. From purple lupines, to desert marigolds, to Mexican poppies, and so many more—the ridges are a sea of color right now. This is testament to what has been a very warm, but somewhat wet winter in Arizona. 

Also testament to this winter's conditions, the gnats were awful on this hike. The worst were in a sandy, riparian flat area that appears to be popular for backpackers to set up camp. Otherwise, the trail was great, with this section receiving very regular maintenance. 

As I climbed higher, the wildflowers dissipated while gamble oak and manzanita took over. The views of Roosevelt Lake and the surrounding green, wrinkly mountains were breathtaking. Distant creeks formed lined with saguaro cacti drained toward Apache Lake. Sierra Ancha and Salome Wilderness areas were glowing a firey red hue under today's cloudless skies, although there was some haze in the air. What I believe to be Mount Graham was visible looking south beyond Globe. 

I reached Buckhorn Creek where the summit of Buckhorn Mountain comes into full view. It's rocky knob is studded with a few rugged ponderosa (or subspecies Apache) pine trees. These mostly line the ravines and washes that lead to the top. 

Peak baggers and hardier types than myself bushwhack to the Buckhorn summit, but I was content to view through my binoculars. I did wonder about views of Apache Lake from the summit, but other than that, the views weren't apt to get much better than what I was already enjoying. 

After about four miles in I returned to Mills Ridge. Today's hike truly was a desert-to-pines experience with plenty of stunning views and beautiful wildflowers in between.

Donahue Trail

Weather:  76º, sunny

About this Hike:  I didn't have lofty expectations for Donahue Trail. While it is a climb up to Milk Ranch Point on the Mogollon Rim, I also know this area is burned pretty badly from the Sept. 2024 West Fire. 

However, today was a half day of work, and with unseasonably beautiful temperatures, I knew I had to get out and do something. I think the last time I visited the Pine Trailhead we were still wearing masks and social distancing. 

From Pine TH the Arizona Trail, Highline, Pine Canyon, and a shorter jaunt called Pine View Trail all converge. In many places the trails run together. Despite well-signed junctions, it can make taking a precise route confusing. In fact, I made a wrong turn on Pine View, deviating from the AZT / Highline route I had planned. No worry though, Pine View looped around and hooked back onto the correct path. 

I reached a crossing at Pine Creek, which was flowing fairly strong—testament to the fact that just one week ago the area experienced measurable snowfall. And speaking of that precipitation, shortly after the creek crossing the trail began to get annoyingly muddy. My personal annoyance aside, I'm glad the area is still retaining moisture. 

Once I reached the junction with Donahue the mud let up. Donahue was more rocky, but it was a good trail. It was never too steep, and always in good condition. It does pass through some burn scar, although the vegetation in this area is mostly juniper and chaparral, with the occasional pinon pine mixed in. 

I reached the out cropping of Milk Ranch Point and found a shady juniper to take a break under. It had been a hot, exposed climb up. I enjoyed the views of the town of Pine, Bear Canyon, and Payson / Granite Dells to the south. 

The hike down Donahue wasn't too bad, taking about 20 minutes until I reached the junction at AZT / Highline. This time I followed the correct route back, not getting tangled up on Pine View. This afforded me two additional crossings of Pine Creek. At another junction Highline and AZT split, although the junction sign indicates they both return you to the Pine TH parking area. I opted for the AZT fork since this was on the GPS track. I watched the slightly longer Highline segment run parallel to the south and then go into a stand of ponderosa pines. Despite being slightly longer, I kind of wish I had picked the Highline track. Regardless, I finished the hike a few minutes earlier than anticipated. 

FR-67 to East Verde River

Weather:  59º, sunny

About this Hike:  This hike came together this morning. I was looking for something to do. Just 24 hours ago we had near an inch of snow on the ground, while the Mogollon Rim is still looking pretty white. I knew the best hiking opportunities would be found at lower, desert elevation.

I decided to check out the Graff Road Trailhead on the northwest side of Payson. I mapped out a hike primarily following FR-67. Of note is a hill called White Mountain and then a potential viewpoint into the Verde River.  The vegetation is definitely of the high desert variety with an abundance of juniper, pinion pine, and prickly pear cacti. 

The 67 road is a lot like all the other hikes I've been doing lately—rocky, steep in places, and an old ATV road. The hike started out with soft ground and some mud. I was wondering if I made a good decision. I passed thru the first of two cattle gates, and the ground began to improve. It seemed to get drier as I continued my descent toward the East Verde.

Meanwhile, spectacular views of the Mazatzals kept me company, the mountain tops dusted in snow. The Mogollon Rim was also visible to the north, while the red-banded cliffs of the Verde River canyon were straight ahead. 

I reached the White Mountain and found it to be an underwhelming little butte. I didn't think it worth my time to hike up it. I pressed on toward the river. 

The descent became very steep at this point. The soil changed from chalky and pale to deep reddish-purple. This is an ATV road, and past motorists have added wood blocks trying to offset the extreme erosion and steepness of the road down to the river. It was hard enough to hike, and I would not want to drive down this in any vehicle.

I ate lunch at the Verde River. The river had a descent flow to it with the rain and snow we enjoyed earlier this week. The water was light brown and very turgid. The un-submerged riverbed was surprisingly not muddy, and so I hiked up-river a bit. 

The road continues across the river, although the map indicates this may be private land. I didn't feel like risking a repeat of last weekend's adventure, and I also didn't feel like navigating a water crossing. The river was my turnaround point for a hike that totaled nearly 10 miles and ~1,400 of elevation change. 

FR-371 to Agate Mountain

Weather:  63º, sunny

About this Hike:  My home in Payson faces the Granite Dells which is known for Boulder Loop and Cypress Trail hiking areas.  Having a view of these mountains from my front yard, I was curious what lies on the other side of this pink granite range. 

Studying the maps, it looked like FR-371 would offer some views of the back side of the dells and possibly some views into an area I've been exploring all winter—Hellsgate Wilderness.  The access point was easy, just a few miles down the road in neighboring Star Valley.  The plan was to use FR-974 as a connector to FR-371 and follow this to a feature called Agate Mountain. 

The map indicated I would have to drive through neighborhoods to access FR-974. However, it also showed that the federal land boundary began immediately east of the neighborhood road. With a couple local businesses in the area, I believed the road to be a public right-of-way for residential and commercial use. 

I parked my truck in a large clearing near FR-974. A fence marked the beginning of 974 which was just a rough ATV road. The fence spanned the narrow roadway, but was otherwise accessible to walk around as a hiker. Interestingly, FR-974 exists only on the All Trails map...

After a brief riparian area near Houston Creek, FR-974 takes a steep climb. It ends at a junction with FR-371. While 371 has the Forest Service's brown stakes marking it, 974 has no such markers.

We followed 371 for a few miles, passing by some cow tanks and having a ubiquitous view of buzzy, high-tension utility lines above. In fact, the little butte known as Agate Mountain serves as an anchor point for a couple of those big, steel utility towers. 

The views on this hike were spectacular. From Agate we had 360º views of the Mogollon Rim, the backside of the Granite Dells, the Mazatzals, and into Hellsgate Wilderness. The dells have more prominence on this side due to being a few hundred feet lower than they are in Payson. The pink walls of the Houston Creek canyon also loomed close by. While there were some drop offs on the backside of Agate, these were more 'stepped' rock shelves covered in vegetation. In other words, no views into Houston Creek, although I could hear the water running. 

A beautiful afternoon hike ended up tainted a bit upon returning to the truck. An unhappy land owner let me know that I had trespassed on his land, despite what I thought was plenty of due diligence in mapping this out respective of private land boundaries.  He admitted his No Trespassing sign was sun-faded while an elk had plowed down the fence that used to mark the federal land boundary... I found it odd that neither the Forest Service nor this land owner bothered to mark the property boundary. In other areas where I've hiked adjacent to private land, boundaries are well-marked by both entities. I'm left to wonder if FR-974 is even an official road or an inaccuracy on All Trails. It exists on no other maps, nor does Tonto NF mention it on their website. 

The correct way to have done this hike would have been to drive in via FR-371, similar to how I accessed The Buttes area last month. I can't vouch for the condition of this section of 371, but I suspect it degrades quite a bit past the Star Valley brush pit. I'm just grateful I didn't get shot or have my truck towed...  

King Ridge - FR-1625

Weather:  70º, sunny

About this Hike:  I created a GSP track for today's hike after studying a topographical map. It looked like there was potential for this to lead to a good Hellsgate Wilderness viewpoint. 

I've done a lot of exploring of Hellsgate in the past few months. Most of my previous hikes had limited viewpoints and overlooks due to the topography (tapered drops / rock shelves versus sheer drops) and the vegetation. Today that changed.

I began my hike at the Hellsgate Trail 37 parking area. I followed what is actually FR-893 for a brief time, turning  a hard left at the junction with FR-1625. A cattle gate blocks 1625, but after a little fumbling with the barbed wire hook, I walked on thru, being sure to close the gate behind me. 

What I was hiking on was the backbone of King Ridge. I explored a side path that led down to aptly named King Ridge Tank. For the first half of the hike there hadn't been many cow pies. This began to change on the second half of the hike. 

The terrain also changed a bit on the second half. Typical of the Hellsgate Wilderness, the actual trails are ATV roads. The first half was mostly packed dirt, but the second half became more of a rollercoaster. The trail would take a steep descent on large, slippery scree. Then it would level out in a flat area. The flat would have a big old juniper tree providing shade, and the soil would be a turgid mixture of hoof prints and cow pies. Then the cycle would repeat as the trail would climb steeply. The final portion of the hike was almost all descent. 

FR-1625 ends on the narrowing backbone of King Ridge. It is here that I got some of the best views yet into Hellsgate Wilderness. It was a breathtaking 360º panorama. The Mogollon Rim and Promontory Butte were visible to the north. The distant mountains and ridges within Hellsgate were visible to the south. The point of the peninsula is formed by the convergence of Salt Lick Canyon and Tonto Creek. And speaking of Tonto Creek—there is an excellent viewpoint. It is something of a horseshoe bend in the creek, although the crux of it is hidden both by topography and a big pinon pine. Regardless, the turquoise waters of Tonto were flowing strong. In the calm and stillness atop King Ridge, I could even hear the roar of the creek. My binoculars revealed deep pools, being drained by small waterfalls. 

I ate lunch and spent considerable time enjoying the views at the end of FR-1625. While a knocked over post marked the end of the road, a footpath continued on. I left my pack on a rocky knob that had been my lunch spot, grabbed my binoculars, and opted to explore. I hiked another 12-15 minutes along old cattle paths, dodging cow pies everywhere. My goal was to get to the very end of the peninsula to see if there were any other interesting viewpoints. There weren't. In fact, it looks like the peninsula drops down steeply into a green meadow. It was steeper than I was willing to explore. Someone's been there though, as the map shows Ripper Tank being in that meadow. 

Across the narrow canyon formed by Tonto Creek, other flat, pale green meadows were visible. I believe these are accessible via Big Ridge Trail 177, although this is an area I've yet to explore. Through my binoculars I could also see a large white square of infrastructure on one of the meadows. I studied satellite imagery and believe this to be some sort of water catchment. It makes sense with all the cow tanks and cattle ranching in the area. 

It was now past 2:30pm and I had a 5.5 mile hike back to the truck. I anticipated the scree would slow me down as it did on the inbound hike. Shortly after departing the overlook, I began to hear loud moos. I soon encountered a bull that was making his way down the path. I stepped off the path and down a hill. A cattle path seemed to parallel the main road, so I followed it until mister bull was long past me. I then hiked back up to FR-1625. 

While more tiring on the body, hiking up the scree hills wasn't nearly as bad. The rocks hurt my feet some, but at least it wasn't as slippery as the hike down was. I arrived back to the truck around 4:30pm. 

The views of the wilderness area and of Tonto Creek were exactly the Hellsgate experience I've been wanting to have these past few months. 

Hellsgate FR 1270

Weather:  55º, mostly cloudy

About this Hike:  A few weeks ago when we explored Hellsgate Trail 37 I noted a vast canyon. Across the canyon I saw a peninsula-type outcropping with a clear ATV road / trail on it. Studying the map, I thought this to be FR-1270. 

We drove in via FR-371, and parked near a shooting area and old corral. The 1270 road is very rough and narrow—at best it'll accommodate ATVs only. 

The hike starts off in interesting pinon pine and juniper forest. It drops down to Green Valley Creek which had a good flow to it. The canyon around Green Valley Creek contains sycamores in addition to thick pinon pine. The humidity was noticeably higher down in here, and there was a clean, earthy smell to the air. The rock formations are a pale pink color, reminiscent of the nearby Granite Dells / Stewart Pocket area.

A long, steep climb up eventually led away from Green Valley Creek. We slogged it out a few more miles, the views into Hellsgate Wilderness becoming increasingly better. As we neared the end of the hike just past an area called The Buttes (I didn't note any impressive buttes, but whatever), Payson came into view. 

I was not expecting Payson to be visible from here. Not only was the town visible, but I noted several landmarks including one in my own neighborhood. While I could see the neighborhood thru my binoculars, I was unable to find my house, likely because it's a one-story and hidden by trees. Also visible were the Granite Dells and Stewart Peak—both very visible from my front yard. With similar rock formations and vegetation, today was a reminder that boundaries are drawn by man. Granite Dells is part of the same ecosystem that largely forms Hellsgate Wilderness. 

The hike ended at Butte Tank. Supposedly there's an old cabin in the area called Neal Cabin, although I did not look for it. While I didn't get the rugged canyon views I anticipated today, I still enjoyed the views into Hellsgate and of Payson. It's funny to me how close I was to home as the crow flies, yet so far away in a remote wilderness area.

Hellsgate Trail 37

Weather:  55º, sun 

About this Hike:  Hellsgate Wilderness area has been our latest area of interest. Today we explored the 'main street' of this wilderness area, Hellsgate Trail 37. I was surprised at how much water was in the creeks and standing on the trails. We originally thought about returning to Bear Flat today, but I'm glad we didn't. There are several unbridged water crossings on the road in. 

We had no intentions of hiking down to the trail's end in Tonto Creek. While I'm certain this would be an amazing experience, it involves ~1,600 feet of elevation drop on what I've read is a steep, rough, scree-filled trail. We don't enjoy treacherous trails like this, as they have led to falls and injuries on several occasions. 

We opted to hike to the Hellsgate Wilderness boundary and just take in the views of the surrounding hills and canyons. The views certainly did not disappoint. 

For as remote as it feels, Hellsgate is still fairly developed. Rooftops of cabins and ranch buildings dot the distant hills. Most of the so-called hiking trails are ATV roads, and while their condition is atrocious in places, fresh tire tracks indicate ATV drivers frequent these paths. When the winds were just right, I could hear the faint sound of traffic on AZ-260. 

The only wildlife we saw today was cattle (along with trying to sidestep all their 'evidence'). In particular was a cow and her yearling calf. She seemed to realize humans were no threat, but her calf was scared and hid behind her. It was kind of cute. Regardless, we gave plenty of space.

We'll be back as there's still so much to explore in Hellsgate. 

Hellsgate - Big Ridge via Haigler Creek

Weather:  60º, sun 

About this Hike:  After an introductory hike to Hellsgate Wilderness a few weeks ago, I've mapped out a number of other hikes in the area. 

Checking out the Big Ridge Trail from near Haigler Creek seemed like a perfect post-Thanksgiving hike to burn off some turkey. 

I anticipated FR-200 to Haigler Creek would be a decent road considering there are neighborhoods and even a lodge down in the valley near the creek. I was mostly correct about this, albeit for one sketchy spot. The spot in question comes right after a signed pull-off for an overlook high above Haigler Creek. A stretch of the road is a one-lane shelf with no guardrails and sweeping views into the valley below. It was a bit nerve wracking, but the road quickly returns to a more safe feel. 

We parked and began our hike from a large pull-off where FR-200 meets an ATV trail. I believe this is  FR-1355. This ATV trail crosses Gordon Creek and becomes FR-178. The path was very muddy in spots, with puddles of standing water. It was also very steep and rutted in other spots. This didn't stop several ATVs that went buzzing by. A few miles in, we even found a parked 4Runner. It was an older model with plenty of forest pinstriping. Regardless, I was shocked that a street vehicle made it thru some of the narrow, steep, and rutted sections. 

Eventually we junctioned with Big Ridge FR-177. I was hoping to hike out to a feature called Horse Mountain, which would be about 13 miles round trip. With about two hours left of daylight, we determined it was best to turn back after a short jaunt up FR-177, having not reached Horse Mountain.

For being below 6,000 feet, this area has impressively thick forest. There's ponderosas and occasional firs, all happily co-existing with junipers, pinons, agaves, and other high-desert vegetation. Enjoying thick forest and occasional water features was the real reward of this hike. 

Hellsgate has obviously been ranchland for many decades. The trails are just ATV roads punctuated by cattle tanks and decayed ranching infrastructure (spring heads, troughs, fences, etc.). I had hoped for some viewpoints and vistas today. While there were a few breaks in the dense vegetation where I brought out my binoculars, there seldom were any good viewpoints in the wilderness area.

Regardless, I look forward to exploring more of Hellsgtate including a return to Bear Flat. In fact Horse Mountain may be reachable from there via a hike similar in length to today's hike. An earlier start would certainly help make this goal attainable. 

Stewart Ridge

Weather:  65º, sun and clouds

About this Hike:  Today didn't look like a hike was going to be possible between work commitments and an iffy forecast. By this afternoon I had completed my work obligations, and the sun was shining. 

Stewart Ridge is so close it's practically in my front yard...as in, I can see the ridge from my front yard. Today was the perfect opportunity to explore this trail so close to my home. 

I started my hike at the Mud Springs Trailhead. I've used this trailhead before to access the Oxbow portion of the PARCS trails. I must have blown right by the unmarked junction for Stewart Ridge in the past. 

The ridge trail offered fantastic 360º views of Payson, the Mazatzals, and the rim. Using binoculars, I was able to find my house, even if only the rooftop of it. There were a surprising number of late-season wildflowers blooming among the high desert landscape. The pink granite, pinon pines, and agaves were similar to what we hiked through last weekend in Hellsgate Wilderness, yet so much prettier at the same time. 

I hiked out to where the official trail ends at a rocky outcropping that I believe is called Gibson Peak. While the official, mapped trail had come to an end, cairns indicated I could go further. I pressed on, following the cairns along a path that was sometimes well-worn and other times overgrown. Past the rocky outcropping, the stands of pinon pine and juniper began to get thicker. I followed what seemed like a trail, although it quickly disappeared into the woodlands. The area was overgrown and increasingly more steep and rocky. I was on the edge of the ridge. With the number of elk bones I saw, I figure there's active mountain lions in this area. I opted to make this my turnaround point. 

I knew I just needed to parallel the rocky ridge to find my way back. However, I ended up on quite an annoying bushwhack, seeming to never find the path I used on my hike in. Eventually I rejoined the official trail and was glad to have done so. Apparently you can hike up to the top of Gibson Peak, although I imagine this would entail some tricky scrambling. I've read there's even some kind of stone structure on top. I might have to come back and explore some more...

As I hiked out along the ridge, the forecasted bad weather was beginning to build in. The skies were dark over the Mazatzals, and by the time I reached the trailhead, the first drops of rain had begun. 

Hellsgate Introduction - Bear Flat

Weather:  75º, sunny

About this Hike:  The Hellsgate Wilderness has been in my backyard for a couple years now since moving to Payson, yet I've never given this area much consideration. 

We decided to change that this weekend. After considerable research, we opted to take the Bear Flat Trail from its namesake neighborhood up to Mescal Ridge. If Mescal was nothing special, the plan was to continue down Bear Trail toward Horse Mountain and Big Ridge. 

We wasted probably about half an hour looking for the trail after crossing Tonto Creek at the trailhead. My GPS map indicated the trail paralleled the private land that makes up the Bear Flat neighborhood. 

We followed the fence to a gate with a sign that admonished 'Watch for Snakes.' This is where we took a wrong turn. While faint, the trail quickly becomes a steep old Jeep road. Instead we went wandering up the steep hillside clinging to trees and following game trails. Spying a saddle near the top, we aimed for that. Upon breaking through the trees, we were on the Jeep road. I asked how the hell did we miss this at the beginning? 

Regardless, now on the correct path, we quickly reached the Mescal Ridge junction. The signpost is there, but the sign is long gone. I was hoping for some good views into the Hellsgate Wilderness. There were some good viewpoints. Through my binoculars I spied a large green meadow with a faint two-track running through it. I'm thinking this is Big Ridge Trail? I could also see homes on a ridge, a reminder this area is more developed that one might think.

Otherwise, many of the would-be viewpoints were obscured by vegetation. And about that vegetation...Mescal Ridge feels very deserty. There's plenty of the namesake agave plants, hedgehog cacti, desert spoons, etc. to remind you that this hot, exposed ridge is in a desert climate. Yet there's also plenty of juniper and pinon pine to remind you this is high-desert forest. 

The ground along Mescal is rocky with deep rust-colored boulders that I assume to be granite. There were also occasional white quartz stones and even some reddish-purple rocks that reminded me of Mazatzal quartzite.  That same ground is also absolutely littered with cow pies.  There are three cattle tanks along Mescal, and this is definitely open-range country. We encountered just one small herd of bessies, but they ran away before we got close. 

I'll be honest that I didn't love Mescal, yet I'm still glad to have experienced it. Upon reaching the Bear Flat junction , and with only about an hour of daylight remaining, we did a short jaunt down Bear Flat. Immediately we were surrounded by thicker forest. The trail was easier on the feet with crushed gravel instead of the rockiness of Mescal. I found myself wishing we had done this segment today instead. 

Regardless, now my interest in Hellsgate is piqued. I plan to return via the FR-200 and experience Bear Flat from the south end to see Horse Mountain and Big Ridge. 

Reavis Ranch Return

Weather:  64º, sun early, clouds afternoon, a few sprinkles 

Time: 3 Hours to Reavis Ranch; 4 Hours Back; 7 Hours Total

About this Hike:  It has been just about four years to the day since I last visited Reavis Ranch.  Today's hike was sort of planned last minute. I've been thinking about going back to the ranch for some time now. The weather today looked absolutely perfect.

Same as in 2021, I started my hike at the Campaign Creek Trailhead near Reavis Mountain School. I was sad to see the junipers and other tall trees that offered a little shade in the parking area are now just stumps and mulch covering the ground. I have no idea why the FS did this. I had the parking lot to myself today, unlike in 2021 when  there were at least a few other cars. 

I started out on Campaign Creek Trail heading for Reavis Gap. It was about 20 degrees cooler than when I did this four years ago, yet it was still warm on the steep uphill sections climbing the gap. 

I marveled at how much healthy forest still remains in an area that was impacted by Woodbury Fire nearly six years ago. When I crested the gap on Two Bar Ridge, I kicked my phone off airplane mode. With a clear sightline toward Four Peaks and Tonto Basin below, my phone actually had service—two bars to be exact. 

Once I reached the ranch, I must admit it was a little underwhelming. The old artifacts are interesting to study and observe. It's amazing that the stamping marks are still intact on a lot of the steel equipment. Unlike four years ago, I didn't see any blossoms yet on the apple trees.  I ate lunch and probably spent no more than thirty minutes at the ranch.

In part, this was due to stormy clouds looming in the distance over the Salome and Sierra Ancha Wilderness areas. While the forecast wasn't calling for rain, I know that conditions can change quickly in the mountains. I was nervous about being caught in a thunderstorm and having to descend on the steep portions with them now being soaked and even more slippery. 

Thankfully aside from a few minor sprinkles the rain never reached the Superstitions. Unlike four years ago when I foolishly did the loop via Fire Line and Campaign Creek Trails, this time I did the hike as an out-and-back on Reavis Gap. This shaved off about two miles, making it "only" a 15-mile round trip hike. Reavis Gap is also well maintained. Fire Line and Campaign Creek Trails are faint and easy to lose. My understanding is that as manzanita and cat claw take over the Woodbury burn scar, those trails aren't getting any better... 

As I was wrapping up, I made one mistake similar to what I had done four years ago. Somehow I ended up at a gate leading into the Reavis Mountain School. This time I didn't open the gate and walk in. Instead, I had to climb up a steep ravine and force my way back onto the main trail. 

The school looked like class was in session today. I saw tents in the meadow and people working the gardens. 

This was definitely a tough day hike for a relatively minor reward. I suppose the real reward was enjoying all the rugged and beautiful scenery the Superstitions have to offer. 

Deer Creek 45

Weather:  66º, sun and clouds

About this Hike:  It's hard to believe that just over three years ago we came up and explored the South Fork trail of Deer Creek. I did not write a blog entry about that hike. 

However, back in late 2021 I noted that in addition to South Fork there are two other trails at Deer Creek Trailhead. All of them parallel each other through canyons that eventually reach the forest road near Mount Peeley—an area of the Mazatzals I've explored a couple of times.

Deer Creek trail starts off in desert ranch land. There are cow pies, cattle fence, and cattle gates everywhere. The trail parallels its namesake creek which forms a desert riparian area. At just under three  miles in is the gravesite of David Cowan. From what I've read he was an interesting explorer that settled in the Tonto Basin area of Arizona. 

We hiked along the creek and were surprised to see that it was flowing in some places, only to disappear underground again in other spots. I guess the little bit of rain and snow Arizona received earlier in the week was enough to refresh our dry creek beds. 

At about four miles in we reached the Mazatzal Wilderness boundary sign. From there on the trail conditions began to degrade. It became harder to follow. Haphazard cairns often pointed us down dead ends. We bushwhacked on a little further and I busted out my trimmers and pruned back some live oak. We were able to get down to the creek bed again and enjoyed the peaceful sound of its gentle flow. 

We opted to turn back at just over four miles. Constantly losing the trail and bushwhacking is just not my idea of a great hike. In theory you can follow this trail all the way up to the Mount Peeley parking area. I imagine this makes for a long, steep, overgrown, and rough hike. 

Regardless, now that Payson is home I'm glad to have explored this trail right in my own backyard.