Buckhorn Mountain via Four Peaks Trail 130

Weather:  79º, sunny

About this Hike:  Spring has sprung early this year. Last weekend I was on my kayak at Apache Lake. From the lake I saw a looming mountain with a green peak. Buckhorn Mountain is its name, and I had researched it about a year ago. I was even more intrigued by the fact there's a designated wildlife research area near the top. 

Buckhorn looked to be an achievable hike using Four Peaks Trail 130 / Arizona Trail from the Mills Ridge Trailhead. This hike was relatively short, but with significant elevation gain. The weather is only getting hotter this spring, so I figured today was the day to visit Buckhorn.

The drive up Mills Ridge (FR-429) was easy. It's about five miles on good, packed dirt with only a few bumpy areas. At the trailhead I happened to run into a social media couple that posts about all things Arizona hiking. I said hello, but they didn't say much, seeming to be in a hurry to leave. Per their social media, they had camped up there the night before. 

At the start of the hike I was treated to desert wildflowers popping everywhere. From purple lupines, to desert marigolds, to Mexican poppies, and so many more—the ridges are a sea of color right now. This is testament to what has been a very warm, but somewhat wet winter in Arizona. 

Also testament to this winter's conditions, the gnats were awful on this hike. The worst were in a sandy, riparian flat area that appears to be popular for backpackers to set up camp. Otherwise, the trail was great, with this section receiving very regular maintenance. 

As I climbed higher, the wildflowers dissipated while gamble oak and manzanita took over. The views of Roosevelt Lake and the surrounding green, wrinkly mountains were breathtaking. Distant creeks formed lined with saguaro cacti drained toward Apache Lake. Sierra Ancha and Salome Wilderness areas were glowing a firey red hue under today's cloudless skies, although there was some haze in the air. What I believe to be Mount Graham was visible looking south beyond Globe. 

I reached Buckhorn Creek where the summit of Buckhorn Mountain comes into full view. It's rocky knob is studded with a few rugged ponderosa (or subspecies Apache) pine trees. These mostly line the ravines and washes that lead to the top. 

Peak baggers and hardier types than myself bushwhack to the Buckhorn summit, but I was content to view through my binoculars. I did wonder about views of Apache Lake from the summit, but other than that, the views weren't apt to get much better than what I was already enjoying. 

After about four miles in I returned to Mills Ridge. Today's hike truly was a desert-to-pines experience with plenty of stunning views and beautiful wildflowers in between.

Fire on the Mountain

Weather:  82º, sunny

About this Hike:  I have long wanted to try and complete the Desert-to-Pines hike that involves using Ballantine Trail to get to Pine Mountain. From the easily accessed Ballantine Trailhead on AZ-87 this is about a nine-mile hike one way. However, in studying the maps, it appeared there is a shorter way to do this.

The south end of Ballantine is accessible via Four Peaks Rd (FR-143). After about 11 miles on the rough dirt road, we parked at the Cline Trailhead, just off 143. There is no signage at this trailhead, nor along the trail. We spied an old cow tank near the parking area. We walked toward it assuming this was the trail. It took us down to Picadilla Creek, which was flowing nicely with a cool little waterfall. 

However, we ended up wasting an hour bushwhacking way off trail. I carry hiking GPS, but it seemed to always show us moving further from the trail, no matter what direction we went. After nearly an hour wasted, we finally found the trail.

This end of Ballantine is nothing but an overgrown old cattle road. The occasional cairn popped up and was a much-appreciated beacon on what was a very difficult trail to follow. Honestly, I don't know why it was so hard. An old waterline follows the trail, with pipes appearing above ground from time to time. There are numerous old concrete cow tanks, most filled with murky green water. Barbed wire fence often parallels the trail on the side opposite the water line. And speaking of water, somebody's out there doing maintenance. Large coils of black plastic water tubing were dropped along the trail in multiple spots. I'd like to know how people get those big, heavy coils of tube out into the middle of nowhere...

After only making it 1.5 miles up the trail, we gave up. It was getting late. While the trail was a little better maintained and less difficult to follow, it was still overgrown. The bushwhacking was getting old. While only a few miles to Pine Mountain, we managed to hike all day and fall short of this seemingly easy goal. 

The hike back was strangely easier. Maybe it was the late afternoon light. Maybe the cairns were more visible. We popped out at the Cline TH parking area, just a few yards east of where we mistakenly started. Wisps of smoke were beginning to rise over Mine Mountain. Knowing this could be bad, we hustled to get out of Four Peaks Wilderness. 

The smoke kept getting worse, and a few miles down 143 it was blocked by an emergency vehicle. The gentleman blocking the road moved his truck and asked us to proceed cautiously. Next up we were in the fire zone, with vegetation burning alongside the road. Wildland firefighters were on the scene of what was now named the Peak Fire. I didn't enjoy this hike at all, and don't plan to come back. 

Thank you firefighters. 

Four Peaks Return via El Oso Road

Weather:  79°; mostly sun

About this Hike:  Five-and-a-half years ago I first visited Browns Peak via Lone Pine Trailhead in the Four Peaks. I got there in an old 2WD Nissan Xterra. I drove in via the west approach on FR-143, and having no prior off-road driving experience, it was probably more than I should have attempted. That story is memorialized here.

I mentioned that the only way I'd return to Four Peaks would be via El Oso Road. Now that Payson is home, this approach to Four Peaks is right in my backyard. On the east side of the range near Tonto Basin, El Oso is shorter and said to be in better condition. Overall, I'd say this is true. El Oso does have some shelf portions, blind curves, and extremely tight switchbacks. It was not a fun drive even in a properly equipped 4x4 pickup. Back in 2018 I marveled at a Mitsubishi Mirage that made it to the trailhead. This year I marveled at a Honda Civic Si that somehow navigated the rough road.

Today it was my goal to explore the Amethyst Trail including the jaunt out to the Four Peaks Mine. In 2018 fire damage was evident on Four Peaks, although the area was recovering since a bad fire in 1996. Much of that recovery was undone thanks to Bush Fire in 2020, and I was curious to see what, if anything, had survived this latest inferno. 

At the Lone Pine Trailhead I noted that fire had burned all the trees that greet you at the information sign. The railroad tie steps at the beginning of the trail were mostly burned up, and the erosion was terrible. Since I previously explored Brown's Peak Trail, I opted to start with Amethyst. The signs at the trailhead call it Four Peaks Trail 130. Regardless, this trail went through some areas of gamble oak and scraggly ponderosa. As Browns Peak came into view, some fall color was evident on the hillside. Overall, despite fire damage, there was a little bit of forest to enjoy. The ascent up toward Browns was very steep and rocky. Eventually I reached the saddle and made a wrong turn. I started up the side trail to the scree chute. Much as I'd like to say that I summited on Brown's, I wasn't willing to attempt that scree chute in 2018 nor was I willing to take another stab at it in 2023. 

I was actually looking for the trail that leads to the Four Peaks Amethyst Mine. It's not easy to find, and I skidded on nearly all fours down a hillside to reach it. Had I looked near the saddle by a fire ring and campsite, I would've found that the trail does connect, it's just not marked at all. 

Previous reviews I read of the one-and-three-quarter mile mine trail indicate it suffers from overgrowth. Thanks to some recent maintenance, the trail is passable. Shears in hand, I helped add to that trail maintenance in areas where oak and catclaw were beginning to crowd the narrow footpath again. Overall it's easy to follow, although I did lose the trail a couple of times. One time I got off trail and nearly took a nasty tumble. My best advise is pack a lot of patience for this hike. Despite a relatively short distance, it has to be taken slowly and carefully. You cannot hustle on this trail; there are just too many obstacles to be wary of. 

Finally I reached the locked gate for the amethyst mine. You can see the mine building up on the hillside. There is a sign that I'm guessing was a boundary marker, although now it's a charred mess. Seeing the mine is neat. But I think the real reward on this hike is the views. You have to keep stopping to look up. This trail is taking you by all four summits that compose the Four Peaks. Study them carefully. There's interesting foliage, rock formations, and even a few little rock arches. Looking the other direction, you'll see panoramic vistas of the Superstition Mountains, Salt River reservoirs, and maybe even a little bit of the Phoenix Valley poking up through the smoggy haze. 

I returned via Brown's Trail, effectively making this a 'lollipop' loop. My two liters of water gave out as I was hiking away from the mine, and I was rationing my reserve bottle until I got back to the truck where more water was waiting in the cooler. Much of the gamble oak forest near the top of Brown's is still in tact and provided welcome shade. This was a nice break from what's otherwise a mostly hot, exposed hike. The trees eventually give way to fire damage as you get closer to the trailhead. Many trees are down across the trail, and you either go up and over, or hikers have made side trails to get around. 

The Four Peaks are an iconic Arizona landmark. In this unique sky island, pine trees fight to grow in what still feels like more of a high-desert landscape than it should at near 6,000 feet. The views are magnificent. However, this is rough, unforgiving country. My honest opinion is that while it is worth doing, Four Peaks is not someplace I'll be rushing back to. Other places (i.e. Mount Peeley) in the Mazatzals are much prettier. And as a whole, Arizona has far more beautiful places to explore. 

Browns Peak & Four Peaks

Weather:  82º, dry, sunny, windy

About this Hike:  Since joining Arizona Hiker's Facebook group I've seen more pictures of hiking to Brown's Peak in the iconic Four Peaks.  This hike is accessed via the Lone Pine Trailhead which is over miles of dirty, dusty Forest Service road.

My research indicated that above 7,000 feet Four Peaks turns into a sky island with cooler temps, pine trees, and phenomenal views of Roosevelt Lake just on the other side of the Matazal range.  I was sold.

A few years back a co-worker offered to let me borrow his Xterra so I could hike in Four Peaks Wilderness.  While I was humbled at his generous offer, I'm not one to take on such liability.  Fast forward to 2018 and I have an Xterra of my own...

Research indicated that Forest Road 143 to Lone Pine Trailhead may be a challenge for the Xterra, but my gut instinct said it wouldn't be too bad.  Let me preface by saying the Xterra survived unscathed.  FR 143 has it nerve racking moments.  The worst comes when you're about 3 miles from Lone Pine Trailhead the road turns very rocky.  Coming down from elevation is no picnic either, as there are no guard rails to protect from some steep drops.  Other than that, slow and steady is the key to navigating this packed, but sometimes rutted, dirt road safely.

Being the over-cautious driver that I am, I frequently pulled aside to let Jeeps, ATVs, and the like pass by.  Most obliged and passed with a wave (all five fingers extended).  People generally are friendly in nature I find....

An intense journey of two hours carried us 18 miles to the Lone Pine Trailhead.  For an additional 40 miles, you can bypass Four Peaks Road, continue north on AZ-87, and then head south on AZ-188 to El Oso Road.  El Oso is unpaved, but reports say it's in much better condition and is only 11 miles to the trailhead.  The fuchsia Mitsubishi Mirage parked at the trailhead was likely testament to this.  I venture to say that even with 40 extra miles on the odo, you'd probably do this trek in similar, or even better, time.

The hike along Lone Pine took us through high-desert scrub including manzanita, gamble oak, and ponderosa pine.  The vistas overlooking Roosevelt Lake were all that they promised to be.  We did see some interesting wildlife including a scrawny doe mule deer.  Not only was she not bothered by our presence, but she was stripping the foliage like there's no tomorrow—which may have been the case as she looked sickly.

Scree Chute on the left

When you approach the final stretch to the summit of Browns Peak the trail turns very steep and very rocky.  The final incline is infamously called 'the scree chute.'  An acute fear of heights has plauged me since I was a child.  The wind at this elevation was relentless.  These factors combined, I made the difficult—but necessary—call that I would not be going up the scree chute. 

From the photos I've seen, I didn't miss much by not officially touching the top of Browns Peak.  The vistas from near the top are already breathtaking.  Canyon, Apache, and Saguaro lakes come into view.  Superstition Mountain seems but a short jump away from atop Four Peaks.  And while the air quality was thick as soup yesterday, Camelback Mountain way down in The Valley could be seen poking through the mire.

Additionally, the Four Peaks appear to have little surface on their summit.  That would've done wonders for my fear of heights.  And that's another interesting point—as impressive as Four Peaks are from The Valley floor, up close they're surprisingly small.

I'm glad to check Browns Peak off my bucket list.  I'm not sure I'm in a rush to return to Four Peaks.  The drive is long and tiresome for relatively little hiking that you get to do.  If one day I do return it may very well be via El Oso Road.  I would like to explore the Amethyst Mine / Mother Lode trail one day.

Look close. From near the top of Browns you can see the lower Salt River lakes

One of many Roosevelt Lake vistas

Epilogue:  On the drive down we encountered the biggest diamondback I've ever seen.  He/she was sunning in the middle of the road.  I hate snakes, but resisted my urge to use said diamondback as a speed bump and in fact was glad to observe this creature from the safety of my vehicle.