Bear Jaw Abineau & Walker Lake

Weather:  70º, humid, clouds, occasional light rain, sun later

About this Hike:  Triple digits are here in Arizona, even for Rim Country. I decided to head above 8,000 feet to try and get some respite from the heat. It's been a while since I've explored the Bear Jaw Abineau loop in the Kachina Peaks Wilderness north of Flagstaff. Today seemed to be the perfect day to visit again. 

When I arrived at the trailhead around noon, the sun felt scorching. I feared this was going to be an unpleasant hike. However, dark clouds were building around the Kachina Peaks. While cloud cover would offer some respite from the sun, it also could mean lightning—not something you want when climbing to above 10,000 feet. The forecast had indicated low chance of storms today, but in the mountains during an active monsoon season, a daily storm is almost inevitable. 

In the past I've hiked this loop counter-clockwise. Doing so gets the steeper portion out of the way on the ascent up the Abineau Trail, with a more gradual descent on the Bear Jaw Trail. 

The day ended up being perfect weather-wise. The clouds never thundered, but they did bring respite from the sun. When I reached the Waterline Connector Trail at the top of Abineau Peak, I received a welcome, cooling shower. By the time I reached the junction with Bear Jaw Trail to begin my descent, the sun was already back out. 

Before beginning my descent, I lingered and took in the spectacular views of the mountains and old-growth conifer forest. The Kachina Peaks look like something you'd see in Colorado or in the Rockies. With no major fires in Arizona right now, the air was reasonably clear today. There were views across the meadows studded with ancient volcanic features, reaching all the way up to the rim of the Grand Canyon. The forest floor was alive with wildflowers and colorful berries. 

While the sun came back out, once I got under the canopy of thicker forest, it offered plenty of shade. The forest transitions from high-altitude conifer to massive aspen, and then eventually old-growth ponderosas make a return. The ponderosas are never very dense in this ecosystem, but the ones that have managed to thrive above 8,000 feet are gargantuan. And there's the smell...this is a very fragrant forest. The notes of pine mix with the butterscotch-vanilla of the ponderosas. 

I had such an enjoyable afternoon on Bear Jaw Abineau that I didn't want it to end. Studying the sign and map at the trailhead, I decided on one more quick hike, this to Walker Lake. Walker Lake is a bowl-shaped ancient volcanic feature. Like most of the 'lakes' in this area, it is a meadow that floods in a wet year. 

I parked my truck just off Hart Prairie Road and followed a four-digit forest road back toward the lake. An older couple with a camper van were dispersed camping back a little ways. I could have driven back to the lake, but with an unknown four-digit forest road, I didn't want to risk it. These are often not suitable for anything more than a dirt bike or ATV. 

Walker Lake is just a grassy meadow, with a muddy puddle in the center. Despite all the monsoon action as of late, the Kachina Peaks need a winter of solid snowfall.

Regardless, today was a great day and left me wanting to come up to Flagstaff more often to explore the Inner Basin and all the other neat features this area has to offer. 

Abineau Bear Jaw Loop

Weather:  67º, sunny

About this Hike:  I read about this hike in Phoenix Magazine just a week before taking a trip to Sedona.  I looked it up and then saved this hike on my All Trails app.  

Sedona has been hot this week; almost too hot to hike by mid-day.  I was on the fence about making the drive up to Flagstaff, but am very glad I did.  A quick pit stop at Fry's in Flag for gas and I should have been on my way.  My phone's Google Maps GPS took me toward the east approach for this hike, and after about two miles driving down Historic Route 66 I knew something was wrong.  

I ended up using my truck's built-in GPS and putting in Arizona Nordic Center as the destination. I had to go back past Fry's.  The west approach for Abineau Bear Jaw is said to be much easier than the east approach, and the turn off for it just north of Nordic Center.  

After passing Nordic Center I came to the turn-off for Forest Road 151 a couple miles later.  Then the real fun began.  There are a few turns on dirt forest roads, although all of them are fairly well maintained and signed.  Interestingly, there are cabins and ranches along these roads. At the trailhead parking, I even had cell service.  

All Trails says this hike is 8.5 miles; the Forest Service says 6.8 on their trailhead map.  Since it's a loop you can do it in either direction.  The trail splits at the Kachina Peaks Wilderness sign a short hike down the path from the trailhead.  I went right on Abineau and hiked it counter-clockwise.  Doing so gets the toughest elevation gain over with first and means a more gradual descent.  

This hike takes you through beautiful, unspoiled old-growth forest.  Eventually you leave ponderosa and mixed conifer forest for purely spruce, fir, and high-elevation conifers.  This hike has about 1,800 feet of elevation gain, topping out at around 10,300 feet.  Once at the top, there are sweeping vistas of the Grand Canyon.  At around 10,000 feet, the aspens were beginning to change color.  

The descending hike is more gradual and goes along a trail that has a few names.  The official Forest Service signs call it Bear Jaw.  All Trails calls it Waterline (aptly named as it is an old road with a rusty old water pipe visible).  I also saw one map labeling it as Inner Basin Trail (the edge of the infamous Inner Basin / Lockett Meadow?).  Regardless, it's easy to follow the loop.  

Eventually the old road returns to trail at a junction.  Here the descent gets a little steeper, and you're surrounded by thick forest.  As you get closer to 8,000 feet, the scent of ponderosa pines lets you know the fauna zone is transitioning again.   

This was a hike that nearly didn't happen for multiple reasons.  I am so glad I made the effort to make it happen and I hope to explore more of the Kachina Peaks Wilderness in the future.