Monsoon Desert Hike - Canyon of the Waterfalls

Weather:  75º, humid, clouds, rain

About this Hike:  Since its recent rise in social media popularity, I've become intrigued by Canyon of the Waterfalls in the Superstition Mountains. Located on the periphery of Lost Dutchman State Park off First Water Road, I've driven by this trailhead countless times without ever noticing it. 

My plan was to visit this area in the cooler months. An active monsoon this week meant cooler temps and the potential for the waterfalls to be flowing. The stars seemingly aligned for a unique desert hike during an otherwise unthinkable time of year. 

I left Payson early, fearing many others would have the same idea as me. I expected full parking along First Water Road, and I anticipated a possible muddy mess along the road. 

Upon arrival at the waterfall trailhead, I scored the last available parking spot. The road was fairly dry, and the wash that comes right after the waterfall parking area was also dry. This was despite the fact it was still raining.

I parked the truck and wondered if I should have brought my rain jacket. The rain was steady, but not heavy, and there was no lightning or thunder. The jacket would have just made me too hot. As it goes with summer rains in the desert, it never cools things down that much, but it sure does drive the humidity high. 

I found this hike to be challenging to stay on trail. As I neared the first of the rock formations, I noted a lot of slippery black rock that I had to hike up. The slickness was exacerbated by the steady rain. I feared what coming down was going to be like. While wet rocks are inherently slick, I was surprised to find that I had good traction. 

I pressed on past the rock formations, losing the trail and having to search for it several times with my hiking GPS. I followed the trail into a wash that was dry. A large rock outcropping stained black had to be navigated around. I assumed this to be one of the waterfalls, and it was definitely not flowing. 

Beyond this first waterfall, I reached a slick, steep scramble. It wasn't long, nor completely vertical, but I watched other hikers having a terrible time coming down it. Once they passed I gave it a go. The rain was picking up, adding to my overall nervousness. Having hiked in about two miles at this point, I made the tough decision to turn around. 

From a higher point on the trail, I used my binoculars to look up-canyon. I got the impression that the wash in the canyon wasn't flowing much, despite all the recent rain. One of the hikers I encountered at my turnaround point also confirmed this by calling the rest of the hike, "A would-be river." 

Shortly after turning around, the rain stopped. I followed a couple of other hikers who took a path around the slick rocks that I climbed up on the way in. This path stuck to mostly gravel and offered far better traction. This is what happens when you're hiking on an unofficial trail and relying on the footprints of those who've gone before you. 

I'm not sure if I made the right call or not by turning around. Shortly after I turned back, the rain stopped. The trail was already well on its way to drying out by the time I was back at the trailhead. A picture I found on AllTrails dated from the last couple days does show the waterfall up-canyon flowing a bit. While I can be a stubborn individual and keep pressing on in less-than-ideal circumstances, I also can be overly cautious at times. A YouTube video of this hike also indicated there may have been a narrow ledge, rock-wall clinging, and a sheer drop further up-canyon. I am very limited by my extreme fear of heights in such scenarios.  

Maybe one day I'll come back. Perhaps I'll try the waterfall canyon again on a combined trip with another relatively unknown trail in the area that has recently earned social media fame:  Triple Arch Trail.

Halloweekend Tradition Lives On

Weather:  81°, sunny, hot

About this Hike:  Haunted Canyon has been a Halloween-time tradition for a fourth year in a row now. My pattern is to alternate each year between the lower trailhead and the upper trailhead. This meant that 2023 was the year to visit from the steeper, tougher upper trailhead. My last visit here was in 2021.

I can't say much has changed in two years. The drive up is a little sketchy but not unbearable by any means. In past years I've done this in October. I opted to try it a little later this year to enjoy the brilliant yellow fall color of the sycamores that line creekbeds in this ecosystem. 

There is a segment of this trail that was full of overgrowth and bushwhacking. Despite getting some maintenance this spring, the bushes are growing back. While not impassable by any means, the bushwhack is annoying. I brought my clippers and did some trimming to try and make it a little less annoying. 

I saw plenty of friendly deer—some a little too friendly. Are other hikers feeding them? I also saw plenty of bear evidence, but thankfully no bears. 

The creeks are bone dry this year, although the several spring heads along this hike were dripping. Otherwise I had the parking area, the trail, and the canyon to myself. I never saw another vehicle or hiker on this exceptionally warm fall day. 

Annual Hackberry Springs

Weather:  68°, sunny

About this Hike:  Hackberry Springs is an annual Christmastime tradition. It's an easily accessible hike in the Western Superstitions. Hackberry Trail allows you to feel disconnected from the hustle and bustle of the East Valley, all while taking in the dramatic volcanic rock formations, creekbeds, and riparian areas that the Superstitions are famous for. 

In a good year what makes this a festive hike is the red berries on the hackberry bushes.  I've seen a few berries this year (including one full bush along Boulder Canyon last weekend), but nothing too dramatic.  Maybe I'm too early.  In past years I've done this hike in December.  

Regardless, the best part of one particular hackberry bush was not the lack of red berries, but rather the flock of queen butterflies (related to monarch) all over the bush.  Upon closer inspection, I noticed pale, tiny flowers on the hackberry bush.  The butterflies were busy pollinating.  

The spring was dry, although there was water around the springhead.  I saw some minnows in the pool, but nothing like the bright, iridescent topminnows of last year. 

We ended up going toward Second Water Trail and followed it south for a while.  We crossed First Water Creek several times.  Much of this area burned a couple years ago.  Aside from scorched saguaros, you'd hardly know it.  The buffalo grass is so thick again, just waiting to spontaneously combust. 

On the All Trails map I noted a path that would take us north back toward Hackberry Trail.  We also intended to visit the old First Water Ranch.  We had a difficult time finding the northbound side trail, but once discovered, it was well-worn with footprints and some equestrian evidence.  I'm not sure how it all came together, but this side trail dropped us right at First Water Ranch.

We took a nice break at the ranch.  Last year when we discovered this site for the first time, it was twilight and we were in a hurry to conclude our hike. I enjoyed studying the old artifacts including a water cistern that will never hold water again due to being used for target practice, and an old well.  I wonder when First Water Ranch was built and how long it was used for.  Rust hasn't set in to a lot of the metal, and the artifacts don't seem that old.  Since these trails get heavy equestrian use, I'm guessing it's still used to rest horses under the shaded pavilion.  

From the ranch we hiked up the old road and then we were back at Hackberry Trailhead.  

La Barge Box Canyon

Weather:  70°, sunny, windy early

About this Hike:  I've explored Boulder Canyon 103 from Canyon Lake and from Second Water more times than I can count.  While the views of Canyon Lake, Battleship Mountain, and Weaver's Needle are impressive, this is old news to me at this point.

In past years I've also explored Boulder Canyon along the western flank of the Battleship.  But I have never explored the eastern side of the Battleship which follows La Barge Canyon.  Today I decided to give this a shot.  

Although La Barge Canyon shows as a trail on the All Trails app—and the number of footprints in the sand attests to it's use as a trail—it is not an official Forest Service trail.  There is plenty of boulder hopping and some light scrambling.  There were a couple of points on the hike up the canyon where I almost turned around and gave up.  I'm glad I didn't.  I kept exploring, studying the rocks, and problem solving.  I always managed to find a navigable path up and over the boulders.  

At 1.3 miles in, my efforts paid off and I was rewarded with views of the La Barge Box Pool.  All along the canyon were pools of standing water, but the Box Pool was nice and full.  This water feature is flanked by impressive canyon walls and a thin, delicate rock needle.  

At the Box Pool the trail takes a sharp 90-degree turn.  There is a large, shady tree (ironwood?) with a campsite underneath.  The trail leaves the creek bed and appears to be normal dirt track again.  This would wrap around the backside of the Battleship and eventually join Boulder Canyon Trail 103, effectively making it a 'lollipop' loop hike.  Taking the Boulder Canyon route would add at least 1.5 miles to my hike.  I was at the midpoint for daylight, and I had drank more water than expected.  Additionally, I wondered at the trail condition, especially on the backside of the Battleship.  Would it be overgrown?  Difficult to follow?  I opted to return the way I came via La Barge Canyon.  

The hike out of La Barge was surprisingly easier than the hike in.  The scrambles and boulder hops didn't seem as intimidating, and I was back at the junction for Boulder Canyon within an hour.  I enjoyed reflecting pools of water, fall color, and cliff views on the way out of La Barge. 

I find La Barge Canyon a very intriguing ecosystem, just like the rest of the Superstitions.  You can read about a another La Barge hike that I did about one year ago.  I'm glad to have explored another end of this majestic canyon.  

Haunted Canyon 2022

Weather:  71°, sunny

About this Hike: Haunted Canyon has become an October tradition now since I first explored the lower trailhead in 2020.  Last year, I explored the upper trailhead.  This is actually one trail, but the convergence point is at a meadow that leads to the abandoned cabin at Tony Ranch.   

Shortly after starting, this hike climbs a ridge above Haunted Canyon. Despite being in high-desert grassland with some juniper/cypress forest, there are some healthy saguaros up on the ridge. It's so cool to see these majestic cacti co-existing in an ecosystem typically outside their range. 

Past what I like to call Saguaro Ridge, the trail dips down into Pinto Creek, which forms Haunted Canyon.  My recollection of the lower trailhead from two years ago is that it was easy to follow and well blazed.  This year was a little different.  Sections of the trail are getting crowded with live oak and catclaw.  Two years ago 2020 had been an exceptionally dry year.  Pinto Creek was dry that year.  This year parts of it were flowing strong, while other parts were dry.  The damp creek beds were full of leafs-of-three, most of which were turning brilliant fall colors.  I definitely brushed my hiking pants against some of these, despite my best efforts to sidestep.  So far no rash and itching...  

At times the trail became difficult to follow and I found myself off trail and getting increasingly aggravated.  I met a large group of back packers, and they were helpful to follow.  

For all the difficulty getting to the junction with the side trail to Tony Ranch, the actual hike into the ranch wasn't too bad.  In past years I've found this side trail very difficult to follow.  I think it's probably getting more action, and therefore becoming well-worn, as more people learn about this historic site and come out to explore it. 

I was so annoyed by the hike in that I considered continuing up Trail 203 to the upper trailhead and then returning to the lower trailhead via FR-287A to form a 13.5 mile loop.  However, the overgrowth is likely bad on the upper parts of 203 as well (it was bad in parts last year).  I opted to just return the way I came, which was a good choice.  The hike back to the trailhead parking ended up being more enjoyable.  I think it was because I was more mentally prepared for the annoying overgrowth.  Despite the flowing creek, I saw next to no wildlife, although there was plenty of bear evidence.  

I'm glad to keep this Halloweekend tradition going for another year.  

Roger's Canyon Cliff Dwellings

Weather:  72°, clouds & sun

About this Hike:  I said I never wanted to attempt the notorious FR172 to Roger's Trough Trailhead in the Eastern Superstitions. Back in April of 2021 I even used Campaign Creek as a means of accessing Reavis Ranch so as to avoid the drive up to Roger's Trough.

Then I began reading about maintenance done on FR172 early in 2022.  And I had read about the Roger's Canyon Cliff Dwellings that are also accessible from Roger's Trough Trailhead. 

I decided to give FR172 a try.  Despite being re-graded earlier this year, the road is in rough shape.  The last four miles where it splits into FR172A and 172B are exceptionally bad. I have a mostly stock TRD Off-Road Tacoma. The truck performed excellent and never so much as slipped a tire. That said, I did slightly bottom out once on a rut. If you choose to do this road, it's a beautiful desert drive, but the road is scary in spots. 

Once parked at Roger's Trough Trailhead, we started off toward Roger's Canyon.  The first mile and a half of the hike follows the Reavis Ranch Trail. Roger's Canyon eventually forks off at a signed junction.

Roger's Canyon Trail 110 exists only in the memories of some, the maps of All Trails, and Tonto Forest's website. The actual trail is overgrown with catclaw and other nasties. However, since this trail parallels Roger's Creek, you simply walk in the dry creek bed. For this reason, I'd only recommend this hike when there hasn't been any recent precip, nor is any in the forecast.

The creekbed is mostly packed sand. However, it does get more challenging with steep drop offs that I'm certain are magnificent waterfalls when the creek is flowing.  Despite some scrambling, there always is a path down; you just have to hunt for it in some places.  Keep in mind your limits when it comes to rock scrambles--you need to come back up whatever you go down. 

The reward at the end of this hike was the Roger's Canyon Cliff Dwellings.  Constructed by the Salado Indians approximately 600 years ago, it's amazing these ruins are still so in tact.  A path leaves the creek bed and leads up to the first couple of ruins.  I even found some old pottery shards.  

From the creek bed an upper cave with more ruins is clearly visible. From photos I've studied, this upper cave has a fully intact pueblo in it. Unfortunately, it requires a scramble on the cliff face up a rock mezzanine.  My fear of heights wasn't having it. 

My hope was to continue down Roger's Creek and to Angel Basin. However, the creek bed was getting more narrow and technical in nature all the time.  Daylight was of the essence, as I wanted to be off the worst of FR172 before dark.  I opted to return the way I came. 

Despite being an out-and-back, there was plenty of scenery to be enjoyed that I had overlooked on the hike in.  The rough, jagged volcanic rocks that make up the Superstitions have many beautiful formations including needles, spires, and rock arches.  And despite 2019's Woodbury Fire in this area, it never got into Roger's Canyon.  There's still plenty of healthy trees and foliage to enjoy in the lush canyon. 

I don't know that I'll ever brave FR172 again.  I have fear of heights and the rutted shelf portions of this road had me puckering the entire drive.  But regardless, I'm glad to check this cool hike and piece of AZ history off my bucket list.

Paradise Lost (and Found) + Bull Basin

Weather: 71º, sunny

About this Hike:  In October of last year I did my semi-traditional Haunted Canyon hike.  Last year I tried the upper trailhead which is accessible past the old iron one-lane bridge and up FR-287A.  

As I studied the map in preparation for that hike, I noted that there are a number of other trails in the area.  Two more miles up FR-287A (for a total of just six miles from the bridge), there is another abandoned ranch and plenty of trails at the Miles Ranch Trailhead.  

The weather was perfect today, and probably won't be like this too much longer.  I decided to drive up to Miles Ranch and explore.  I plotted out a 10 mile loop hike starting on West Pinto Trail 212 until the junction with Bull Basin 270.  At this point I would follow Bull Basin down to Haunted Canyon 203, do a brief jaunt on 203, and then return to Miles Ranch via Paradise Trail 271 plus a brief half-mile on FR-287A.  

My map work in All Trails was beautiful.  I didn't see any traffic or other hikers until I reached the Miles Ranch Trailhead.  The meadow near the old ranch was surprisingly busy with tents and vehicles, this due to a Boy Scouts campout.  The scout troop was lining up to go on a hike, and I am glad they went a different way than me—I know from experience being stuck behind a hiking scout troop is a tedious affair.

My hike began on West Pinto 212.  An freshly fallen oak tree blocked the path.  It took a lot of careful maneuvering, but I got around it unscathed.  It was but a foreshadow of what was to come.

The first two miles of Bull Basin 270 were quite beautiful.  The trail meanders along a creek, and then begins to climb with dramatic, but not super steep, switchbacks.  Beautiful wildflowers were everywhere.  Shrub overgrowth on the trail was getting annoying.  Much of it was live oak which is a bit prickly, but won't tear you up like cat claw will.  Annoying, but manageable.  Until about 2.5 miles in when it wasn't manageable anymore.  I don't know if a machete would've gotten me through the thicket that was now the trail.  

Some people insist bushwhacking is part of the fun.  I think it's a good way to get cut up and lose an eye.  I decided to turn back and return to West Pinto 212.  I explored West Pinto which follows the creekbed of Pinto Creek.  The stream was flowing a bit and there were some dramatic cliffs and rockslides.  The lush forest gave way to burn damage along West Pinto.  Again, I opted to turn back and return to the Miles Ranch Trailhead. 

I took a few minutes to explore the old horse stables and other infrastructure at the ranch.  Despite the name Miles Ranch Trailhead given by the Forest Service, this ranch was called Kennedy Ranch.  Judging from some of the artifacts and the condition of the stable building, I don't think it's been abandoned all that long.  I'm hoping to learn more of the history of this place...

I departed Miles Ranch and drove about a half mile back down 287A where there are two pullouts that will fit a few cars.  This is the trailhead for Paradise Trail 271.  Paradise started out along thickly forested creekbeds, one of which still had some water flowing.  I didn't get too close, because I saw poison ivy all around the creek.  There was also what appeared to be an abandoned pink tent in one of the clearings.  Creepy.  

About two miles in and over 1,000 feet elevation gain, Paradise was lost.  Overgrowth again became impassable and at this point it was late in the afternoon and I was tired.  I opted to turn back the way I came. 

While I didn't accomplish the original loop I had set out to do, I can't say I was completely surprised.  The few bits of information I was able to find on this trail network warned overgrowth is a big problem in this less-visited area of the Superstitions.  In fact, the series of out-and-back hikes that I did was my Plan B if things didn't work out.  I was still able to explore all the trails I wanted to see.  And the forest in this area is so unique.  Made up of mostly Arizona cypress, there is also the occasional pinon pine, along with plenty of live oak and manzanita.  A rare saguaro cactus still makes an appearance, seeming to defying the top of the mighty saguaro's range.  

I'm sharing a screenshot of my map. You can see the original loop route which would have taken me south and around Government Hill.  The colored lines indicate the actual out-and-back hikes that I was able to accomplish:

Tortilla Trail FR-213 to Tortilla Ranch

Weather:  65°, partly cloudy, breezy

About this Hike:  Many reviews of this hike describe it as being a boring walk through the desert.  Today we were looking for a Superstitions hike that wasn't overly strenuous, nor had too much elevation gain.

The Tortilla Trail was a perfect option.  The trailhead is about a mile from where the pavement ends on AZ-88, Apache Trail.  The hiking path follows FR-213.  The rocky ledges at the start of this road require some serious high clearance and other off-road accessories in order to climb over.  I wouldn't even think of taking my Tacoma over it.  However, through the course of this hike we did encounter a Chevy truck that was surprisingly unmodified and a heavily modified Subaru Forester.  While infrequent during our visit, vehicle traffic is something to keep in mind if you opt to hike on this route. 

The views of the Superstition Mountains and Four Peaks were breathtaking, as were the views down into Tortilla Canyon.  Tortilla Creek was flowing steadily.

Upon reaching the old Tortilla Ranch, we marveled at the good condition of the infrastructure and historic artifacts.  I am hoping to research the history of this place some more.    

We continued past the ranch a ways and explored the beginnings of JF Trail and Peter's Trail.  There are some interesting artifacts right after you junction with Peter's Trail.  These include an old cistern, and a windmill that has fallen over.  Sadly, many of these artifacts are riddled with bullet holes.  

Past the cistern the trail descends into the creek, and the views of the Tortilla Canyon walls are spectacular.  Sycamore trees line the creekbed.  With the creek flowing, and muddy evidence of a recent flash flood in the area, we weren't able to go far.  This became our turnaround point. 

Upon arrival back at the Tortilla Trailhead parking area, we opted to drive one more mile up the Apache Trail to watch sunset at the Fish Creek Overlook.  This is as far as you can go on Apache Trail, and a large gate bars vehicles from going beyond the overlook site.  Apache Trail was damaged severely in a post-fire mud slide a few years ago and has yet to reopen.  

Annual Christmastime Hackberry Springs - Superstitions Hike

Weather:  64°, sunny

About this Hike:  Hackberry Springs is an annual Christmastime tradition for me.  In a good year, the hackberry bushes have some festive red berries.  I hoped this would be the case following a wet summer monsoon.  No such luck.  I never saw even one hackberry this year.  

That said, this hike is always enjoyable.  There was water in the springhead in Hackberry Creek, but that is to be expected.  In the little pool of water, there were topminnows with iridescent colors and bright orange tails.  I've seen tadpoles in this little pool before, but never fish.  It was some of the coolest wildlife I saw all day.  

After emerging from Hackberry Creek Canyon (which was bone dry this year), it seemed too early to close the relatively short loop and return to the parking lot.  We opted to head east on Second Water Trail 236 thru Garden Valley, past the Indian Paint Mine, down to Boulder Canyon, below the 'hull' of Battleship Mountain, and then peek into La Barge Canyon.  

I thought this would be a fun side trip, especially after visiting a completely different end of La Barge Canyon just a week prior.  It did not disappoint.  Besides all the beautiful landmarks along the way, there was fall color in the riparian areas of Second Water Creek and Boulder Canyon.  There was also a cool daytime moonrise over Geronimo Head, the mountain which forms the cliffs of La Barge Canyon.  

I should note that this route is all still beautiful Sonoran Desert—most of it was not touched by recent fires in this area. 

We trekked back from La Barge Canyon and debated following Second Water 236 back to the main parking lot (which would require a half-mile walk by road to where we parked), or returning to Hackberry and closing the loop.  Daylight was running low, and the Hackberry portion seemed a bit shorter.  

This ended up being an excellent choice, but also a little unnerving.  We've never actually closed the complete Hackberry Loop as it's mapped on All Trails.  We've always started at Hackberry and ended up doing a long day around Black Mesa and other trails.  Some of this was backtracking through Hackberry Canyon, but when we reacted the junction on the map, a signpost indicated the trail only went one way.  In fact the final portion of the Hackberry Loop jutted off behind the signpost, not following any of the sign's arrows. 

An unsigned trail (albeit mapped on All Trails) made me very nervous.  However, horseshoe prints and other horse 'evidence' led me to believe this was a good trail if it was getting equestrian use.  It ended up being a very good route.  There were a few creek crossings (mostly dry).  It was never overgrown or terribly difficult to follow. It also went past what appears to be an old ranch.  There were remains of a windmill and a covered corral.  From there it was no more than half a mile and we popped up on First Water Road, just a short walk from the parking lot and Hackberry Trailhead.  

The sun had just set and the Superstitions began to make their nighttime sounds.  This was a beautiful hike through unspoiled Sonoran Desert.