Saturday, June 22, 2019

Fire and Water - Wet Beaver Creek Swimming Adventure

Weather:  90º, sunny

About this Hike:  With below-average temps, this was the perfect weekend for a hike at the Wet Beaver Creek via Bell Trail.  Since first discovering this spot in October 2017, I've wanted to go back prepared—swimsuit, aqua socks, and a towel.  Past hikes here have been with hiking mates who ran out of water, were in a rush, expressed concerned about bacteria in the creek, etc.  I decided to fly solo on this one.

As of Friday night my plan was to get up somewhere around dawn and be on the road early.  The parking lot gets crowded fast in the summer and I figured an extra-early start would help me beat both the heat and the crush of traffic flocking to the high country on a typical summer Saturday morning.  And then the Badger Springs Fire ignited.  I-17 was closed as of bedtime on Friday night.  I considered a detour via 87 to 260 thru Payson; however, I-17 was re-opened when I got up Saturday morning. 

So about that fire...As I drove by, the smoke plume was still visible.  The burn scar along the interstate was fresh.  And the guardrails—they were still on fire and at least one had collapsed onto the shoulder.

Arriving at the main parking lot around 8am there were spots to be had, although they were filling up fast.  I choose a nice spot on the end and got my hike underway.

Since Bell Trail runs east to the 'Beaver Crack' swimming hole, I was hiking into early morning sun.  It was intense and hot.  Once I got thru the meadow and into the red-rock canyon, some outcroppings provided shade.  The trail was busy, and  I was working my way around a lot of active senior citizens.  Kudos to them for attempting this hike.

The four miles to the swimming hole went by quick as there isn't major elevation gain or obstacles on this hike.  People were cliff jumping at the swimming hole, and I was able to get a good spot on the rocky beach below. 

I wasted no time jumping into the crystal-clear blue-green water of Wet Beaver Creek.  It was cold, but felt so good after the hike.  I took care to stay out of the cliff jumpers way, and some of the active seniors joined me in the water.  My core temperature dropped fast, and when I got out I was shivering hard and had a raynauds attack in my left hand.  Nothing a little sun bathing on the flat red sandstone didn't cure. 

On the hike out I detoured down Weir Trail to the a USGS water monitoring site.  There's sandstone so flat that it almost feels man-made at the end of Weir Trail. If you go back into the woods a little ways there's a beautiful pool that's shaded by big trees.  The water is emerald-blue, and a little waterfall feeds into the pool.  Ferns form a hanging garden from the red cliffs.  Such a beautiful, serene spot... 

Back out at the monitoring site, I got in the water just downstream of the flume formed by the flow-detecting equipment.  One final cooldown...

As I headed back out thru the canyon and toward the meadow, clouds began to build in.  Cloud cover, along with an occasional breeze, made the hike out a lot cooler than the hike in was.

The drive home on I-17 was uneventful.  Badger Springs was still smoking, and the southbound guardrails were also on fire.  ADOT reports say by mid-morning the backups were bad in the fire area.  I made a good choice leaving early.  Oh, and 87 ended up being closed due to the Slate Fire yesterday, so my detour wouldn't have been such a good idea anyway...

Sunday, May 26, 2019

Mt. Ord - Another One Off the Bucket List

Weather:  75º, sunny

Time:  ~90 minutes to the summit from junction with FR 1688

About this Hike:  Normally I wouldn't record my time for a hike like this, but I feel it was significant for reasons to be shared shortly...

First, let me say I never would have expected to be doing this hike in May.  The unseasonably 'cool' weather this spring has been a real treat.

Mt. Ord looms directly next to Highway 87 as one drives between Phoenix and Payson.  Many a trip to Rim Country has left me wanting to explore this 7,000 foot+ peak.  The communications towers and fire lookout are often directly visible from 87.  It's rare that you can see a mountain peak so clearly from its base.

It is nearly one year to the day that Mt. Ord's base charred by the Potatoe Fire.  For quite a time last summer Mt. Ord (and most AZ Federal lands) was closed.  Admittedly, I was nervous and was considering a backup should the gate at the base be closed and locked.  It was open upon arrival.

The road up Mt. Ord varies from rocky and rough to packed dirt.  It's narrow most of the way, and coordinating with on-coming vehicles (rare on this Memorial Sunday afternoon) can be a tricky dance.

I reset the trip odometer upon pulling off paved Highway 87 and onto Mt. Ord Rd.  The plan was to drive up about 3.5 miles, park in a turnaround, and hoof it up to the summit.  I made it 2.5 miles when I encountered the junction with un-maintained Forest Road 1688.  A grove of ponderosa and juniper made for a shaded parking spot and/or camping spot.  I backed the Xterra in and planned on an extra mile hike.  The bumpy road had gotten to me in just those short 2.5 miles (which doesn't say much; I have low tolerance for rough dirt roads).

If Google Maps is to be believed, it was almost 5 miles to the summit.  I didn't hike particularly fast.  Occasionally I had to hit the ditch when a vehicle choosing to drive to the summit went by in a cloud of dust.  I stopped often for pictures of the wildflowers, greenery, and breathtaking views.  Roosevelt Lake, Bartlett Lake, Horseshoe Reservoir, Verde River, and the Four Peaks are strikingly visible as you get higher on Mt. Ord.  Say nothing of the Mazatal Wilderness that surrounds you.  Yet I was closing in on the summit in just over an hour...I must have hiked fast.

The final push to the summit requires a hike for all but the authorized personnel that have the key to the gate.  There is a wide dirt area, and many a lifted Japanese truck was parked just before the gate.

There are multiple communications towers atop Mt. Ord.  One was labeled as Verizon Wireless, another as AT&T.  I had all bars and LTE service on this hike.

The Mt. Ord Fire Lookout is one of the biggest I've ever seen.  Wind was booming through it's steel girders like a jet engine.  A gate restricts access to the staircase, and a sign advises visitors to keep out.  This is unlike fire towers I've visited on other National Forest land, but it may be Tonto Forest's policy.  Regardless, with the wind, plus the height of that tower, I don't think my fear of heights would have let me climb it.  I was satisfied with the views at the base of the summit.

Returning to the car, it was only mid-afternoon.  I decided to explore FR-1688.  This narrow, rocky mess of a road is really more of a hiking trail.  It goes through some old, wooded ranch land, and works it's way up Little Mt. Ord.  The summit of big Mt. Ord is visible in clearings on this hike.  FR-1688 dead ends within 30-45 minute hike.  On the way back a guy was attempting to drive the road in a first-gen Hyundai Tucson that appeared to only have front-wheel drive.  He was at high risk of a tip over on the uneven road, and he was pin stripping the sides along the narrow road.  I felt bad for him for even attempting such a feat.

All in all, Mt. Ord was an awesome hike and another off the bucket list.


Wednesday, April 24, 2019

Last Day of Vacation - Camelback

Weather:  83º, sunny

Time:  35 minutes

About this Hike:  Last night we arrived home after several days of hiking and kayaking around the Las Vegas, NV area.  I opted to take today off work as part of my vacation so I could have an unpack and decompress day prior to returning to the rat race.

Needless to say, late morning on a Wednesday seemed like a safe bet to find parking at Camelback.  I was right.

It felt good to be back on the mountain again.  A number of hikers were pointing out a rattle snake sighting earlier in the day.  I must have just missed it.  Several hikers were looking for it, saying it had slithered under a tree.  I hate snakes and am glad it stayed there.  Regardless, I was just a little more cautious about where I put my hands on this hike.

My time to the summit wasn't great.  It was likely hampered by some dehydration I've been experiencing.  That's what happens when you spend several days in the dry Nevada sunshine.  I made a lot of stops and went through almost all my water today.

Regardless, this impromptu hike was good use of my time on the last day of vacation. 

Saturday, April 20, 2019

Fletcher Canyon - Mt. Charleston

Weather:  65º, sunny

About this Hike:  Last June we explored the Mary Jane Falls in the upper parts of Mt. Charleston just outside Las Vegas, NV.  In early June the falls were flowing at a trickle fed by snow melting off the highest reaches of the Spring Mountains. 

As we headed for home last June, we passed by some intriguing lower-elevation trailheads including Fletcher Canyon.  April seemed to be a perfect time of year to return to the Las Vegas area not just to explore lower parts of Charleston, but also to do some kayaking in Lake Mead and the Colorado River before the valley gets unbearably hot.

Fletcher Canyon's parking lots were full when arrived on this Saturday afternoon.  A spot opened up just down the street near the Kyle Canyon Picnic Area and we grabbed it.  We stayed at the Mt. Charleston Retreat again, and we actually could have skipped driving.  This trailhead is accessible on foot by using (underwhelming in my opinion) Kyle Canyon Trail across the street from the hotel to access Fletcher Canyon. You can also just walk along the street.

Initial forecasts had called for a rainy Saturday.  It was warm and sunny when we arrived at the trailhead.  A seasonal stream in Fletcher Canyon was flowing with clear, grey/blue water.  Seeing this was an unexpected bonus and a beautiful testament to the wet winter much of the Desert Southwest enjoyed this year. 

Fletcher Canyon is an out and back.  As we worked our way up higher in the canyon snowpack became more apparent.  It was slippery in spots.  Combined with stream crossing (most were very easy) and them some catclaw, we decided it was best not to continue this hike.  I'd estimate we completed at least three-quarters of the Fletcher out-and-back trail.  We also explored some side trails that led to overlook points. 

All the while, we marveled at the clouds billowing up over Charleston Peak.  In no time, it was dark, thundering, and icy rain was falling.  

The rain let up ever so slightly, and we did a quick jaunt to a higher elevation trail called Robbers Roost.  This easy out-and-back takes you to a big cave.  It was late afternoon at this point and the rain started again.  We decided dinner at the Retreat's dining room sounded like the perfect end to a great day hiking Mt. Charleston. 

Saturday, March 9, 2019

Desert Abloom

Weather:  69º, partial sun

Time:  ~2.5 hours

About this Hike:  This is the second time this winter that I've explored the southwestern end of South Mountain via Pyramid Trailhead.

This trailhead is located at Chandler Blvd. and 19th Ave., deep in the suburban jungle of Ahwatukee Foothills.  Last time I explored this area it was to find an old mine shaft and the remains of an old ranch.  Turns out there are a lot of side trails that, while well-blazed, don't appear on the City of Phoenix map of the preserve.  Following some of these can be tricky. 

Last time as I was finishing up my hike, I got distracted and started to explore the well-signed Bursera trail.  Bursera is part of the city's trail system.  I wanted to explore some more, but was short of time.

With temps unseasonably cool and wildflowers abloom, today was the perfect day to head back to Pyramid Trail. 

From the trailhead parking, Pyramid quickly gives way to Busera.  The signposts are abundant marking these trails.  Busera takes you up and over several ridges, with steep elevation gain, followed by steep drops.  I'd recommend poles, and regret not bringing my own. 

Eventually Busera drops through a valley that was carpeted in delicate yellow flowers. These flowers formed 'crop circles' around creosote and other desert brush.  For that matter, Busera runs along a lot of north-facing ridges, and these were exploding with purple flowers, and gold Mexican poppies. 

Busera climbs again and then joins National Trail (this 13 mile trail traverses the entire South Mountain Preserve).  I hiked up a steep ridge along National as I wanted to see the view.  Would I see Phoenix and Tempe in the distance?  Actually, South Mountain is composed of two long ranges with a deep depression, valley, canyon—call it what you like—that runs east-west down the middle.  Atop this ridge, I was able to observe this geography all the closer.  A wash and San Juan Road run through the valley floor.  As I gazed eastward the control tower at Sky Harbor could just be seen poking up in the crotch of the valley. 

I'm sure none of this is news to Phoenix hiking aficionados.  It just goes to show even after eight years in the Valley, there's still so much for me to explore—especially at America's largest urban park.




Monday, March 4, 2019

New Home, Lots of Changes, Same Old Camelback

Weather:  75º, sun

Time:  34 minutes

About this Hike:  The last time I contributed to this blog, I still lived in my old condo.  I was just beginning to pack that weekend, and the big move wasn't even for-sure at that point.

A lot has transpired during these busy past few months. There were hikes out in the Superstitions that somehow never made it on here—First Water and Peralta to be exact... Both marvelous and fantastic places in their own right.

This blog was primarily intended to serve as a scorecard, chronicling my Camelback and Piestewa excursions.  So today marks the first time my boots touched Echo Canyon since October 2018.

There was one attempt in November that ended with me frustrated and going home after much wasted time and gas circling the parking lot. 

I had today off from work because I had an out of town guest.  After dropping her at Sky Harbor, I had this day off to play.  My expectation for a reasonably quiet Echo Canyon was quickly dashed. While the overflow parking was full, the main lot had spots.  It was still busy today.

And regarding out of towners—there were many on the trail today.  I gave myself a generous handicap due to being stopped for tourists blocking the trail for photo ops, not respecting proper trail etiquette, and just generally getting in the way. 

In the end though, it was an enjoyable hike.  From the summit I observed how this record-wet winter is impacting the vacant land around my house—instead of a brown field, it appears to be a green city park from atop the Camel's back.  And it was fun to find my office and laugh at my co-workers working away down there.

It felt good to be on Camelback again after all these months.  

Sunday, October 14, 2018

An OK Day on Camelback

Weather:  76º, sun

Time:  34 minutes

About this Hike:  It's one of the coolest and wettest Octobers on record the TV weather say.  I originally planned to hike Camelback yesterday morning, but just as I was about to leave it started to rain.  And rain.  And rain some more. In fact, rain didn't let up until just after 3pm yesterday. 

People post majestic pictures of the waterfalls that form on Camelback during rain.  Much as I'd love to experience that firsthand, the slick rocks and fear of falls/injury kept me indoors during a rare rainy Saturday in Phoenix. 

But today the clouds had parted and the sun shone once again in Phoenix.  I had a theory that with last week's win all the fair-weather Cardinals fans would be watching the game.  In past years during the autumn NFL season this theory has proved true and trailheads have been empty.

Today that was not the case.  Camelback was packed.  I had trouble getting parking, and when I did, it was a spot I was less than comfortable leaving my car in.  The trails were crowded, and many hikers were from out of town based on their conversations, lack of trail etiquette, etc.

Parts of the trail were still damp, and at one point a little stream was tricking down the mountainside.  Very cool.  Otherwise, I was admittedly grumpy on this hike.  The crowds, constant bottlenecks, people nipping at my heels, worrying about my car in the parking lot—it all kinda got to me. 

But, in the end my car was OK.  And I was OK.  And it was a good workout on this beautiful October Sunday afternoon.