Weather: 75º, sun
About this Drive: Normally this blog is about hikes. However, the scenic drive out to Point Sublime at the Grand Canyon North Rim has been on my bucket list.
I've done a lot of research on this drive. In the Grand Canyon National Park, a sign at the beginning of Point Sublime road offers a dire warning with words such as: unmaintained, hazardous, self-rescue, and blown down trees.
I also learned there is another route to Point Sublime using forest roads on the Kaibab National Forest. This alternate route is a little longer, but said to be more scenic and better maintained. There's also supposed to be an historic fire lookout tower and cabin along the way.
I opted to camp at DeMotte Campground which is right next door to where my journey would begin on FR-22. I had built a detailed map because this drive involves a lot of turns. Most roads on Kaibab Forest are pretty well signed.
Starting early in the morning, the initial road was graded gravel and easy driving. I found a small electrical box (there's some utility infrastructure out there) and stopped to air down on the driveway to it. I knew the road was likely to deteriorate the further in I got.
The road did narrow and got a little rougher, but nothing too unmanageable. Sawed-up trees on the roadside reminded me of the warning about trees falling. I did have a chainsaw and a handsaw in my off-road recovery kit, but I hoped not to need to use either of them. In fact I never did, testament to the wisdom of doing this drive pre-monsoon.
I never found the fire lookout or cabin. I assumed there would be a sign or some kind of marker. Their mapped locations aren't the easiest to figure out either.
Eventually I reached the gate marking the national park boundary. Beyond that was a junction. Here I made a mistake and went the wrong way. I probably was four miles down Swamp Ridge Road before I realized my error. I was not happy.
Agitated by the lost time, I turned around. Now going the correct way, I was on course to join Point Sublime Trail. At this point the road began to deteriorate significantly. The road became more rutted. While I had to back up and reevaluate my line once, I managed to navigate the ruts.
The road was a little nerve wracking, but really not too bad. I arrived at the Point Sublime Campground. There were two unoccupied campsites each with a picnic table. Surprisingly there was also a restroom complete with solar-powered composting toilet. Inside, the restroom was clean and fully stocked. I was glad because the drive had wracked my nerves enough...well never mind. I was both grateful for and surprised by the fact there's a restroom in such a remote location. It makes me wonder, how was equipment brought out there to dig the pit and construct that restroom, and who maintains it?
Having parked at the campground, I hoofed it to the actual Point Sublime overlook. With nearly 360-degree canyon views, it is quite breathtaking. The Colorado River is even visible far below.
After lunch and plenty of photos, I departed Point Sublime. Ominous as the park road sounded, I've read reviews of people doing the drive in an old VW camper van and a Ford Escape. How bad could it be? Surely my 4x4 Tacoma could handle this...
My 4x4 Tacoma performed just like it was engineered to. That said, it handled the road well. Its driver (yours truly) on the other hand did not handle it so well. The road has a lot of scary ruts and rocky sections. The hills are always the worst with ruts and other obstacles. In the final few miles the road opens up into scenic meadows, yet even these have ruts and sandy sections.
The ruts really got to me because of the angles the truck would get on. It feels like I'm about to tip. I also know Tacomas can get on some gnarly angles, as Toyota loves to demonstrate at their overland events. I was probably over-reacting a bit. I don't off-road for the fun of it like many people do. I off-road for the beautiful destinations one can reach only by driving off the paved path.
Regardless, I survived Point Sublime Trail. The last couple miles aren't so bad as this segment seems to get a little maintenance.
After driving both approaches to Point Sublime I can hands-down vouch for the Kaibab Forest route being the better choice. Regardless, drivers will have to navigate at least a few miles of the awful, rutted Point Sublime Trail.
Another reason I picked this route? It ends at the Widforss Trailhead in the national park...