Jack's Canyon, Hot Loop, & Horse Mesa

Weather:  69º, sunny

About this Hike:  I am intrigued by Munds Mountain near Sedona. However, hiking Munds appears to involve many miles of hiking to the trail via Jack's Canyon, or a drive over some challenging forest roads that likely aren't suitable for my truck. 

I opted to explore Jack's Canyon / Hot Loop to Horse Mesa instead, thinking this might be a similar alternative. 

The trail starts in typical Sedona red rock. It offers some interesting canyon views while the drainages along the trail still had some standing water. This year is an interesting conundrum in that Sedona is downright hot for January, yet there is still a lot of mud and standing water as we come off a very wet holiday season. Last year at this time Sedona was cooler, but drier too. 

Eventually red rocks give way to the black rocks that define the tops of many of the mesas around Sedona. The foliage changed to high desert. By the time we were on top of Horse Mesa there was a lot of juniper, yucca, and scrubby pinon pines. The soil on the mesa was dry, yet was muddy and stuck to our boots at the same time. 

We visited an overlook and got some views of the immediate area around Horse Mesa. Bell Rock, Cockscomb, and other Sedona landmarks were in full view. Otherwise, local neighborhoods were all that loomed below. 

This was just over the two-mile point. I originally intended to go about four miles, but the map indicated the trail would move to the center of the mesa and away from any viewpoints. It was boring desert scenery, so we opted to turn around and return the way we came. 

Someday with some further research I may check out Munds Mountain. I gather the scenery is better up there, and if there's one thing I've learned, you never run out of new things to explore in Sedona.  

Secret Canyon

Weather:  61º, sunny

About this Hike:  The mystique of Secret Canyon and Secret Mountain Wilderness continues to allure me. Coming off a rainy spell, I decided to hike to Secret Canyon today to see if the waterfall was flowing. I hiked in via Chuckwagon, having parked along the side of the paved Long Canyon Road. Even if FR-152 were open (barricades are up), I would never attempt this in my truck. The mud, the ruts—152 is hardly a road anymore. It's a shame too, because it limits how much of this area one can explore in a day, with at least five extra miles hiking by using Chuckwagon as an access point. 

The Secret Canyon waterfall had decent flow to it today. Being as I reached it by noon, I opted to press on. Every other time I've done this trail circumstances have never allowed me to go much beyond the waterfall. Today that changed. I pressed into Secret Canyon.

There were plenty of creek crossings, although always with solid rock bridges. The creek was flowing enough to be pretty, but not enough to impede crossings. The canyon was cold in spots, with some snow remaining while icicles hung off the red canyon walls. At one point the creek narrowed into a little slot canyon. 

The trail crossed the creek, climbed up above it, and then dropped down to cross again.  This cycle repeated often. Beyond the red canyon walls, this secret area is filled with ponderosa pine and some firs. It is beautiful. However, it does feel very remote, and I had a foreboding sense today. No worries though, the only wildlife I saw was a deer. My footing was always solid. And remote as it feels, Edge of the World sits just above Secret Canyon on the rim top. 

I opted to turn around about halfway into Secret Canyon per the All Trails GPS track. The trail was getting more overgrown and harder to follow. I figured it would just get more treacherous the deeper I went. While old-growth pine and red rocks are beautiful, the scenery was getting to be a little underwhelming. 

The hike out felt endless. I was tired and a little sore. If only the Secret Canyon parking area is where this hike ended with my truck waiting to carry me out on a graded gravel road! There was still close to three miles back along FR-152 and then Chuckwagon. 

With a properly equipped ATV I imagine one can explore a lot more of Secret Mountain Wilderness. Maps indicate miles of forest roads on the rim top near Edge of the World. There are some intriguing trails up there, although I get the impression most of those exist only on maps and in memories these days. I'll be honest—the mystique is wearing off. I'm beginning to think I've seen the best of what I can access in Secret Canyon. 

Wilson Mountain

Weather:  60º, sun and clouds

About this Hike:  My last recorded hike on Wilson Mountain in Sedona was in 2012. It's possible that I did it one other time in the last 12 years and just didn't record it here on this blog.

Regardless, today I decided to visit Wilson again, with the goal of reaching the Sedona Overlook and Canyon Overlook, both at the top of the mountain. Wilson is really more of a high mesa, with the top being flat and offering a few additional miles of hiking to each of the overlook points. 

Back in 2012 I probably hiked without a trekking pole, much less All Trails or any type of hiking GPS. I thought reaching the 'false summit' at the Wilson First Bench was an achievement. In fact the trail to the top goes on for a quite a few more miles beyond the bench. 

Both overlooks were stunning, with views into Oak Creek Canyon to the north and the City of Sedona to the south. The edge is a sheer drop, and I was not willing to get close to it. 

Besides the views at the top, the best part of this hike is actually near the beginning from the north trailhead at Encinoso Picnic Area. The hike goes through a red rock canyon full of maples and old-growth firs, spruces, and ponderosas. Once it climbs out of the canyon, it quickly becomes more exposed with scrub vegetation. 

The top of Wilson has suffered fire damage. Most the pines are gone, with grassland and gamble oak having taken over, between all the charred logs. There are a couple stands of surviving ponderosas near the overlook points; enjoy them while you can. 

Visiting Wilson as a more knowledgeable, more experienced, and better equipped hiker was a fun and rewarding experience. I'm not sure I will be back anytime soon, but I could always check out the Wilson trail on the south side of the mountain. This trail begins at the Midgley Bridge parking area.  

The hike down was steep and rocky--sure made me glad for that trekking pole. This was a challenging hike. Today's route was about 11 miles and 2,500 feet of elevation gain. 

Telephone Trail 72

Weather:  47º, sun, wind

About this Hike:  Many years ago on a hike at West Fork in Sedona I noted the Telephone Trail #72. I guess it slipped out of memory, that is until I spotted the little sign on the side of 89A during a drive up Oak Creek Canyon this week. 

It was chilly, but otherwise a good day for a steep hike. This one gains about 1,000 feet, all over the course of about one mile. The trail is in excellent shape and easy to follow. 

Initially it parallels the trail's namesake: an old utility line. I imagine this is no longer in service, as sections of the wire now lie on the ground right next to the footpath. 

About halfway up there's an interesting formation. Rock arch 'windows' dot a wall of pale sandstone. This is a nice spot to stop for a break. 

The final push to the summit involves hiking on a narrow 'backbone' and then into dense forest. From there, the trail gets extremely steep. The summit is worth the effort though. While still forested, the trees do thin a bit at the summit. There are phenomenal views of the mountains forming Oak Creek Canyon and also the San Francisco Peaks to the north. The beginning of West Fork is also very visible. There is a sheer drop off, if you're willing to get near the edge. 

The hike down is treacherous. I took my time, often using the traction offered by pine needles and fallen logs next to the trail. This was opposed to keeping my feet on the loose gravel and dirt path. At one point I crouched and did a controlled slide down. 

This hike packs a lot into about two miles round trip, both in effort and reward. It definitely felt like more than just two miles. 

Secret Canyon Return - Four Years Later

Weather:  43º, sunny

About this Hike:  I can't believe it was four years ago that I hiked Secret Canyon in January. I mapped this hike out to begin at the Chuckwagon Trailhead which has paved road access. Even with an off-road truck I'm not about to try FR-152. 

One of the highlights of that hike four years ago was discovering a beautiful waterfall in a narrow, red canyon near the junction of Secret Canyon and David Miller trails. With recent snowpack beginning to melt a bit, I thought today might be another waterfall opportunity. 

We parked at Chuckwagon and did the 2.6 mile hike in via Chuckwagon and then along FR-152. Chuckwagon is pretty. FR-152 not so much. The road is currently closed due to poor conditions, but the barricades wouldn't be difficult to move. Recent tire marks in the road indicate this has likely occurred. 

The trail was covered by some snow, although crampons / snowshoes were not required. Exposed patches were often muddy, but it wasn't too difficult to navigate. Recent footprints indicate we weren't the only hikers trying a midwinter exploration along Secret Canyon. 

The area near the aforementioned waterfall is where this trail gets good. Ponderosa pine forest sprouts up, and the creek is bounded by smooth, curvy red rock walls. Today this area was a winter wonderland. Snow caked the trees and shrubs. The creek was solid ice, so therefore the waterfall was not flowing. 

I found a good marker for the waterfall. A woodpecker was going to town on a large ponderosa shortly before the David Miller junction. The tree has a ring of perfect round holes, and the snow around the base was stained with sawdust. Just look for the pecked-up ponderosa and the waterfall overlook is a few steps beyond. 

Four years ago I thought the trail ended at the curvy red cliffs. Back then I didn't use hiking GPS. Today, looking at both my GPS and the footprints in the snow, I realized you're just getting into Secret Canyon. Unfortunately my hiking partner's boots had filled with water, so we needed to turn back. Plus, the sun was sinking behind the mountains and the temperature was dropping fast. 

In a different season I'm thinking about coming back. And if not Secret Canyon, I also want to explore neighboring Bear Sign Trail. Secret Mountain Wilderness has long intrigued me. Here's hoping it's sooner than four years before I'm back here again.

Wintry West Fork

Weather:  ~40° and sunny

About this Hike:  Years ago I visited the Sedona tourist trap known as West Fork. Back then there was a 20 minute wait in line followed by a $9 parking fee.

Being as COVID made everyone an outdoorsman and Sedona has become even more overrun with tourists, I never planned to visit West Fork again.

That changed after I drove by it on the way up to Flagstaff for some snowshoeing yesterday. In fact, West Fork was closed, but people were parked outside the gate.

I decided to head up to West Fork today, snowshoeing gear loaded in the truck. I had no idea what to expect. In fact, I had no expectations at all, just an open mind. Upon arrival the parking lot was plowed and the gates open. The guard shack was staffed, meaning I had to pay the now $12 parking fee. But unlike most any other season, there were only a few cars in the parking lot and open spaces were plentiful. Several inches of fresh powder covered the ground, rivaling what I experienced up in Flag yesterday.

I strapped on my snowshoes and ventured out. As I passed through the ruins of the old buildings and across the wooden footbridge, I began to realize I got way more than I expected. Red rock cliffs soared up thousands of feet. The forest looked enchanted with snow clinging to the ponderosas and firs that grow in this lush canyon. The crossings over Oak Creek were never too difficult, thanks to surprisingly thick ice sheeting. Still, I used abundant caution, tapping the ice with my snowshoe poles and determining alternate routes if the ice cracked or appeared weak. Thankfully my efforts paid off and I never got a ‘hot’ foot in Oak Creek.

Enjoying the solitude and scenery around me, I pushed to complete the West Fork trail—a goal that I eventually met. A sign at the end advises the maintained trail is done. Brave hikers can continue down the canyon, although a narrow, deep pool awaits as the creek now becomes one with the trail. I pushed on just a little further past the sign. I wanted to see this pool. It wasn’t far ahead. In fact the sun hitting the steep red cliffs made the ice glow pink. It was a fitting end.

I turned around and hiked out the way I came. My feet were soaked. Snow finds its way into boots no matter what you do. Gratefully my feet never got cold, just very wet. I knew I had to hustle, as the sun was behind the canyon walls by 3PM. The sun had been warm in the canyon and the beautiful power I snowshoed across this morning was now heavy, wet snow. It was sticking to my crampons and making my snowshoes very heavy…along with my soaked socks.  

As the fence line, footbridge, and ruins came into view, I was ready to wrap it up for the day. However, I thoroughly enjoyed the scenery and serenity a wintertime hike along the 6.5 mile West Fork trail offers. I never thought I’d explore West Fork again, much less have it almost to myself (minus a few other brave hikers). I got my $12 worth, for sure.

Loy Canyon - FINALLY!

Weather:  70°; clouds and sun

I love Secret Mountain Wilderness. I've explored Secret Canyon from Sedona before, and I couldn't wait to explore more of Secret Mountain via Loy Canyon. It's taken the last six months for this hike to materialize. Each time I'd plan a trip to Sedona, the weather would turn for the worst and I'd have to cancel. 

Finally, with ideal spring weather upon us, I made an impulse decision to do a Saturday trip up to Red Rock Country.  

The road out to Loy Canyon TH isn't bad at all, which is surprising after the wet winter we've had. It's maintained dirt/gravel, and the utility poles that follow the road remind you you're not far from civilization, remote as it may feel out there. 

This hike begins in Red Rock Country, which gives way to beautiful old-growth forest. Then it gets less pretty as you emerge from forest into desert scrub and sandstone. This section is the switchbacks that ascend up to Secret Mountain. Definitely watch your footing in here, as the trail is a shelf in some sections. The views of Secret Mountain and the canyon are breathtaking. 

Once through the switchbacks I reached the saddle and junction with Secret Mountain. I first went to the south, but the trail gave out quickly. Massive trees have fallen, and the trail is not only blocked but tore up with huge gashes that are impassable. The elk are certainly enjoying this area of Secret Mountain. Whatever's on top of Secret Mountain may have to wait for another day (doubtful as my understanding is this section isn't being maintained anymore).

I opted to go to the north and hiked over to the Secret Mountain TH. I was actually impressed to see this is a semi-developed TH. I put down my pack here and had lunch. The creeks in the lower elevations of Loy Canyon were bone dry which is unexpected after this wet winter AND there's patchy snow on Secret Mountain. However, in the higher elevations water is still flowing. I first heard and then spied two beautiful waterfalls across the canyon. I also heard, but did not see, what was most certainly a rock slide somewhere in the canyon. 

Unable to explore Secret Mountain further, I returned the way I came. I'm so glad to check this one off my bucket list, but I may be back.  My understanding is that there are some impressive Native ruins to explore in Loy Canyon.

Caves of the Dry Creek Basin / Secret Mountain Wilderness

Weather:  79º, mix of sun, clouds, and rain

About this Hike:  This was really two hikes out to separate caves in the Sedona area.  The first cave is the Subway Cave and the second is the Birthing Cave.  I've seen many pictures of both, and wanted to see them up close for myself.  

The Subway Cave is a bone of contention with Sedona locals and preservationists alike. This once little-known area has become an overrun tourist trap, just like so much of Sedona.  On a rainy Tuesday morning the full parking lot at Boynton Canyon attested to this.  

After hiking a few miles up Boynton Canyon, there is a side trail to the Subway.  Someone put fallen tree limbs in front of it, indicating that this is not a trail.  Many a confused tourist continued straight on Boynton Canyon, so the tree limbs served their purpose of throwing off the inexperienced hikers just doing this for the Instagram photos.  

As you approach the Subway, a sign asks that people respect the cultural heritage and significance of this site.  In addition to the cave, there are native ruins and petroglyphs.  

The ruins and petroglyphs are easy to get up to and only require scrambling.  There is something of a mezzanine that wraps around the red rock face from the ruins and into the cave.  However, there are at least two sketchy ledges that one wrong move would lead to a fall of certain death.  The cave can also be accessed via a slick red rock chute at the mouth of the cave.  While older, less-in-shape folks than myself were getting up into the cave, I could not.  I deal with extreme fear of heights, and thought this was one I should sit out.  I climbed up the chute enough to at least see inside the cave.  It was crowded with tourists, and honestly, not that appealing. 

The aptly named Birthing Cave was a lot easier.  A relatively short hike leads to the crevice in the red rock cliffs, and only a scramble is required to get up into the cave.  

From Robbers Roost, to Keyhole, and now to Subway—myself and the Sedona caves have a checkered history.  In fact Birthing Cave is the only one I've been able to fully get inside of.  Loose rock shelves and narrow ledges have kept me from fully getting inside the other caves.  I calculate risk carefully, and these are risks I'm not willing to take. 

AB Young Trail to East Pocket Fire Lookout - Sedona

Weather:  87º, sunny

About this Hike:  This one has been on my bucket list for a while.  I love hiking up to fire lookout towers.  

In the past when a ranger was manning the tower they'd often invite me up and show all their observation equipment.  Due to COVID that's no longer an option, and signs at the base of the tower warn you as much.  East Pocket Lookout appeared to be closed as the windows had heat-blocking sheets over them and no ranger vehicle was present. 

This hike begins by parking at Bootlegger Picnic Area off 89A.  Finding the trail is tricky as a number of trails go down to Oak Creek from the picnic area.  You just have to look around carefully as there are signs posted.  We went the wrong way at first but eventually found the treacherous creek crossing that kicks off this hike.

We managed to stay dry and successfully crossed Oak Creek on the shaky rock and log bridge previous hikers had built.  AB Young Trail begins in dense riparian pine forest.  It quickly gives way to exposed switchbacks that are a bit overgrown with grass and manzanita.  You might want long pants for this hike.  After an elevation gain of about 2,000 feet this hike begins to become rewarding.  The top of the mountain is flat mesa and ponderosa forest begins to appear.

The views looking into Oak Creek Canyon are like no other.  Highway 89A and even the Bootlegger parking area are tiny specks down below.  Humphrey's Peak is quite prominent to the northeast.  However, this flank of the mountain that points toward Humphrey's has suffered considerable burn damage. 

A walk along the flat top of the mountain eventually leads to the East Pocket Lookout.  You could theoretically skip the hike and drive up the forest road (I believe it's #231) to the lookout, but my guess is that the road is closed to public traffic.  

On the way down we spotted a lean-too built along a scenic part at the top of the mountain.  I imagine it would be magical to camp there and watch the sunset over Oak Creek Canyon and Sedona.  

Secret Canyon - Hidden Sedona

Weather:  63º, overcast

About this Hike:  This one's been on my bucket list a while.  In April 2018 I did explore the very beginning of Secret Canyon, but this was an unplanned side excursion after a long hike over Sterling Pass, Sterling Canyon, and Vultee Arch.

The challenge with Secret Canyon is getting there.  The 3.5 miles over Forest Road 152 are more than I'd even like to attempt even with my Tacoma TRD OR.  I learned of a shortcut (~2.5 miles) by parking at Long Canyon and hiking to FR-152 via Chuckwagon Trail.  From there it's about a mile along FR-152 to the Secret Canyon Trailhead. 

This hike to the trailhead was beautiful in and of itself.  Chuckwagon is high above Dry Creek, which is still not living up to it's name based on the cascades of water flowing through.  This route added an hour in both directions just getting to the trailhead.  Surprising, because I can usually average 4+ MPH in good hiking conditions. 

Secret Canyon's beauty needs to be kept a secret.  It's so close, yet so far away from the circus that Devil's Bridge has become.  Secret Canyon could be a satisfying alternative to West Fork.  No, it's not as beautiful as West Fork, but it's sheer remoteness drives away the flocks of tourists that wait in long lines to access the Fork. 

The creeks in Secret Canyon were flowing strong which made it all the more magical.  The trail largely runs parallel high above a creek.  A mile or so in and snow began to appear.  At about 2.5 miles in, scrub oak and old-growth ponderosa forest offered shade and fragrant scents. 

Eventually the trail dropped in the creekbed and parallel to a massive red-rock wall.  I assume the trail begins to follow the creek here, which was impassable due to the high volume of icy water rushing down.  This made a good stop-and-turn-around point. 

High above the creek on the way out, I could hear the distinct roar of a waterfall.  Finding a safe vantage to view it was another challenge.  Following my ears, I picked up a side trail to a stunning overlook point that was the highlight of this hike.  A flume was pouring out of the red rocks and filling a pool below with deep blue water.  It reminded of something you'd see in Watkins Glen, NY, only with red sandstone instead of limestone shale. 

Part of me wishes I could have gone all 4.5 - 5 miles to the end of this trail.  Another part of me thinks I got pretty close and likely saw the best there was to see of Secret Canyon.  There are a number of trails that intersect with Secret Canyon, so I wouldn't be surprised if someday I'm back to explore more of this stunning area.

Dogie Trail and Sycamore Canyon - Hidden Sedona

Weather:  58º, sunny

About this Hike:  Back in November I hiked the unimpressive Casner Mountain after an equally disappointing hike at Robbers Roost Cave (see post from November 2019 for details). 

When I was high up on Casner I could see down into a valley with lush greenery, Sedona red rock spires, and a canyon with a creekbed in the bottom.  "I should be down there hiking..." was the only thought in my mind that hot November day. 

Subsequent research revealed that ~1.5 more miles down the dirt Forest Road 525C would have taken me to a trailhead into what I learned is the Sycamore Canyon Wilderness. 

Today was my chance to check out the Dogie Trail in Sycamore Canyon.  FR-525C starts out as graded dirt and gravel and only begins to deteriorate in the last mile or so to the Dogie Trailhead.  It's still not bad though and was nothing for my Tacoma TRD OR.  A friendly couple I met at the trail had done it in a Jeep Cherokee Latitude on plain old Firestone all seasons.

Regardless, this hike afforded views of magnificent red rock formations, cow tanks, and even some snow in the shaded parts.  If I had pushed another mile, the trail would eventually have descended to the creekbed in Sycamore Canyon.  Due to time and daylight constraints, I only observed the creekbed from high above.  It was largely dry with a few icy pools of water remaining. 

I am glad to check this one off the bucket list and find myself debating if I want to eventually visit the other end of Sycamore Canyon at Parsons Trailhead near Cottonwood.  More likely, I'll go up to the head of the canyon near Williams and visit the picturesque Sycamore Falls at some time.  

Arizona Cypress Trail: Redeeming Value for this Trip

Weather:  78º, sunny

About this Hike:  Yesterday's hikes were a bust.  AZ Cypress trail in the Dry Creek Basin of Sedona was redeeming value to this Sedona trip.

The trailhead is down a short dirt road (more like a driveway) just off Dry Creek road prior to the 'Y' in the road that leads toward Fay and Boyton Canyons.  Enroute I passed many suckers parking their cars on precarious (and possibly illegal?) angles in an effort to get out to Devil's Bridge (I remember the good ol' days when this wasn't a Instagram hot spot).

Anyway, AZ Cypress was much quieter.  The driveway leads to a large open dirt area that would be abundant parking.  However, the silence was quickly broken by target shooters firing into a soft berm.  I opted to park the truck just off the road the trailhead lest they pump lead into it.  There's room for two vehicles here.  Otherwise, it's a short walk from the open dirt area.

The sound of gunfire aside, this was a very peaceful hike. The AZ Cypress trail starts off in soft sand as it leads toward a dry creekbed.  I'm guessing that creek overflows when water is present, hence the sand and soft, erroded berms.  Oh and the cypress trees.  These have to be some of the biggest Arizona Cypresses I've ever seen—bigger than examples on the Mogollon Rim.  Surely these are abundantly watered trees, further evidence that the dry creek can sometimes be a raging torrent.

The well-mapped and signed network of trails in this area lends to some beautiful views of Sedona and west toward Mingus Mountain, Jerome, and even Prescott. 

There were some sycamores near the creekbed that I tried to think of as fall color, even if they just turn brownish-orange. 

A full and satisfying afternoon of exploration was capped off by a hike back to the truck along AZ Cypress.  It was quiet at the trailhead.  A shot rang out.  I startled and hurt my neck.  Time to head back to town for a beer at Sedona Beer Company.  

Robber's Roost Hideout & Casner Mountain

Weather:  77º, sunny

About this Hike:  The Sedona icon Robber's Roost Hideout Cave has been on my shortlist to visit for a while.  Now that I have the 4x4 truck this Red Rock Country landmark is readily accessible.

We've been in a fairly dry spell here in Arizona, and the dirt road out to Robber's Roost would have been passable in most any SUV or even a sedan.  It did have a few small washes to cross, so probably not the best idea if wet weather is in the forecast. 

I parked at the main parking lot for the cave.  It's about another mile hike up the un-maintained dirt road to the trailhead.  The trail is short and becomes difficult to follow, although there were cairns.  Eventually it leads to the little red butte that houses Robber's Roost.

I'm honestly amazed at how many people have made it to this cave (if you want to call it that—it looks more like an indentation in the side of the butte).  I'm even more amazed at the pictures I see of coolers, chairs, and party favors in the cave.  You see, the trail eventually gives way to a narrow red-rock shelf.  The shelf slopes downward.  Downward is a sheer drop several hundred feet off a cliff. No hiking guides I read advised of this. 

I have severe fear of heights.  With no handholds, and a slope in the slippery red-rock trail, the odds were not in my favor.  I tried to be brave and press on.  I began to shake violently. 

Part of hiking is knowing your limits and knowing when to turn back.  I was completely disappointed, because from what I understand the cave was just around the corner from the treacherous point in the trail.  My fear of heights has limited me before on past hikes, but living to hike another day is more important.

A flat rock made for a comfortable bench while someone else in my hiking party braved the steep ledge.  His report back:  The cave and the surrounding views are overrated.

The next part of the hike was a short walk along the road to Casner Mountain trail.  This was described in a hiking guide as a set of switchbacks leading to the top of a mesa with elk meadows and possibly some pine forest.  Sounded beautiful. 

What I got was an extremely steep hike up with loud, buzzy high-voltage lines overhead. The trail ascends through dry desert grassland, and trees/scrub are sparse. The entire trail is exposed.  It's actually an old maintenance road for the power lines. 

Water and daylight were both running lower than I'd like.  I made it to what ended up being a false summit on Casner and decided to turn back. 

From near the top of Casner I looked down into a picturesque Sedona landscape with red-rock buttes and spires, and the yawning expanse of Sycamore Canyon.  Turns out another mile down the dirt road would have taken me to a trailhead for Sycamore Canyon. 

While both my hikes were a bust today, I may come back to explore more of Sycamore Canyon.  Apparently there's a 19 mile loop through the canyon that also takes you up Casner Mountain on the backside.  Like I've often said, all that hiking teaches me is there are more trails I want to explore. 

Soilders Pass Arch/Cave

Weather:  67º, overcast, breezy

About this Hike:  Thanks to joining the Arizona Hiking Facebook group I discovered the Soilders Arch and cave along the Soilders Pass trail in Sedona.  As I read up on the hike, I realized it's not a very long or difficult hike. Good thing, because I was on time constraints today. I had strict orders to be back at my parent's hotel for a timeshare presentation this afternoon...some non-sense about me attending would get an additional free gift.  I'd much rather have been hiking.

I've traversed Soilders Pass trail several times, visiting the obligatory sinkhole and the Seven Sacred Pools of Sedona.  Each time parking at the tiny Soilders Pass trailhead has been very difficult.  On-street parking in the tony neighborhood that surrounds the trailhead is forbidden, as numerous signs point out. 

Angry and frustrated, I worked my way over to the Jordan Road trailhead.  This ended up being a blessing in disguise.  About one mile over dirt road is required, but it's in very good shape and passable with a passenger car.  Just exercise care on the smooth, flat rock portion that mimics pavement––toward the end are some nasty ruts. 

Jordan Road is a much bigger parking area than Soilders Pass.  An additional 20 - 30 minutes of hiking through relatively level, Arizona Cypress-dotted Sedona landscape is all that is required to reach Soilders Pass.  If you want some elevation gain, a shorter, steeper alternate trail deviates from Jordan and goes over Cibola Pass.

So on to the arches... If you use HikeArizona.com, be warned––it says the turn off for the arch/cave is 1/8 of a mile from the Seven Pools.  In reality it's at least a mile from there.  HikeArizona.com does get it right regarding the wilderness boundary sign.  It's small and on a tree, but it marks the well-defined fork in the trail.  At this point bear right and begin the steep ascent to the arch. 

I covered the majority of the ~1/4 mile climb to the arch in five minutes.  I have my Piestewa and Camelback climbs to thank for that, I suppose.  Toward the end it gets a bit treacherous and more care is required. 

Rock pile I wasn't climbing...

At the actual cave you have to step on a rickety pile of rocks and then hoist yourself up.  There are OK hand/foot holds cut into the rock, but standing on that quaking rock pile just didn't work for me.  Much as I wanted to go into the cave, I only poked my head in.  There is a tin box where you can sign the visitor log, and I actually saw another hiker doing just that.  While he admonished me to go into the cave because, "It's not that bad," I couldn't do it.  That rock pile took me back to the scene from Home Alone 2 when the burglars attempted to build a ladder of sorts out of household junk...
 
Regardless, the area around the cave is magnificent.  The centuries-old sandstone under the arches is laced with huge fissures.  Sunlight streams thru in places.  Gigantic boulders are caught in the fissures, dangling precariously.  Under the arches the sandstone has become so brittle as to peel like old wallpaper.

I've explored a lot in this area in recent years.  Discovering Jordan Trailhead was a silver lining in a frustrating situation early on.  I look forward to continued exploration along Soilders Pass, Jordan Trail, and Brins Mesa.

One of the smaller cave arches

Striated sandstone

Water, Water Everywhere – Wet Beaver Creek

Weather: 85º, sunny

About this Hike:  It's too hot for October! So a hike to a swimming hole seemed like a good idea. 

After a week in Sedona, driving south on 179 back to I-17, the landscape quickly changes from beautiful Red Rock Country to high-desert wasteland–a reminder I'm heading back to Phoenix.  Today's the first day of my vacation in Sedona, and going down 179 S is a dismal reminder that my vacation will end in a few days.  However, the Bell Trail lies just southeast of I-17.  It's decent paved Forest Service Road the whole way there.  Needless to say I wasn't expecting much from this area.  Was I ever wrong.  This hike on relatively flat, graded trail runs parallel to the lush riparian environment around Wet Beaver Creek.  Even though we've been in a post-monsoon dry/hot spell, the waters of this creek were flowing strong. 

It was my goal to reach the Wet Beaver Crack Swimming Hole (awful name, I know).  After over an hour hike and some side-trail detours down to the creek, we came to a junction.  Go left to stay on Bell Trail.  Go right to take the Weir Trail.  There's a map posted at the junction, and it looked to me like Weir crossed the creek.  We reached a shaded oasis area with red rock cliffs and even a small waterfall.  There's a USGS monitoring station there, and the small dam creates a bit of a luge.  I sat on the smooth red sandstone and dipped my hot feet in the icy water.  I thought that maybe this was the Beaver Crack Swimming Hole, but my instincts told me it was not. 

Upon returning to the junction, I studied the map more carefully.  It did in fact appear Bell Trail crossed the creek up ahead.  Another hiker came by and I confirmed with him that Beaver Crack was still ahead.  At this point the trail does require a semi-steep climb high above the creek.  It eventually drops down to the swimming hole.  The red rock cliffs and black edges of the Mogollon Rim grew more and more stunning.

Once at the swimming hole I realized why 'crack' is in the name.  There is a fissure in the red sandstone-encompassed pool that is almost Lake Powell-esque.  There were other hikers sunbathing and enjoying the swimming hole.  I regretted not having a swimsuit on.

An even deeper regret?  I slightly underestimated the mileage and time on this hike.  With all the side detours, this took approximately 2.5 hours to hike in.  Water was running low for both myself and my hiking mate.  As a seasoned hiker this failure of planning hurt my pride, but I asked some generous hikers if they could spare a bottle of water.  They kindly obliged.  I was humbled.

The hike back out to the trailhead parking lot took just over an hour.  Next time, I'm planning to bring a lot more water.  And my swimsuit so I can get in the water.

Beaver Crack

Quiet oasis near the USGS site on Weir Trail

Like Fossil Creek....

Mingus Mountain

Weather: 75º, sunny, breezy

About this Hike:  Earlier in September I blogged about my experiences in the Mt. Union Fire Lookout.  While the U.S. Forest Service Ranger in the tower rambled about his libertarian views (I mentioned he was quiet a character), I heard 'Mingus Mountain reporting' crackle over the two-way radio.  'What's Mingus Mountain?' I wondered.  Upon returning home I did some research.  Another Prescott trip was inspired.

Mingus lies between Prescott Valley and Jerome.  It's an easy drive up from Phoenix on paved, two-lane highway nearly the entire trip.  As you approach Mingus you traverse some ugly golden grassland that I can imagine one careless cigarette-butt-out-the-car-window may set ablaze.  As you wind your way up the Mingus Mountain Scenic Byway grassland rapidly gives way to ponderosa pine forest.  And on a side note, the mountain passes were a blast, pushing the handling prowress of my recently acquired Mazda CX-3.  But I'll digress...this blog is for reviewing my hikes, not cars.

Mingus Mountain is a well-defined recreation area.  At the base is what's known as the picnic area,  with a vast paved surface lot, two picnic tables, and a latrine... A well-graded dirt and gravel road leads to the top of Mingus.  We opted to park on pavement and hike up the road.  Note if you choose to do this:  bring a bandana to cover your nose and mouth with.  The road can be dusty whenever a vehicle passes by, so use caution. 

While driving to the top is an option, you'll miss some beautiful scenery doing so.  There was ridge of firey fall color (and pretty much the only fall color we got on this hike).  You pass through several meadows and then by Mingus Lake (basically a fishing pond).  At Mingus Lake there was a meadow full of cattle grazing.  Only they were bulls.  And there was no fence/pen.  I nervously walked to the other side of the road.  Up the embankment was a wire (not razor nor electric) fence.  I seriously considered getting on the other side.  How is it legal to allow bulls to graze without a pen?! Regardless, there were people fishing in the lake, including some children that were running around.  The bulls seemed far more interested in the grassy meadow...

We reached the Mingus Fire Lookout only to discover it was closed for the season.  I've been up enough of these now that it wasn't a total crusher that this was closed.  Mingus is a very tall, narrow fire tower with a ladder up to the hatch.  My fear of heights would've kept me in check.

There are a number of side trails to explore from the Mingus Summit.  There's also a scenic vista and hang glider launch ramp.  The vista affords fantastic views of Sedona and the San Francisco Peaks in Flagstaff.  Cathedral Rock and a few other Sedona landmarks are visible to the naked eye.  It's time for me to get new binoculars.

A few additional things about this hike:

• Parking at the summit is $5. It's free at the base
• With radio warning signs everywhere, plenty of communications towers greet you at the summit.  I had great cell service, although it was spotty on the side trails
• Maps on U.S. Forest Service's website are OK, but I noted a few confusing points

Free-range bulls...literally

Sedona in the distance

Soilders Pass & The Seven Sacred Pools

Weather:  47º, overcast, misty

About this Hike:  I first experienced the Soilders Pass trail in September of 2016. This was during my weeklong hiatus in Red Rock Country. During that visit I made it a theme of the trip to explore the Dry Creek / West Sedona trails in depth.

Soilders Pass is a hike with early rewards. Starting off is Devil's Kitchen Sinkhole. Shortly thereafter are the Seven Sacred Pools of Sedona. In September when I visited they were filled with stagnant water and at least one had scary mutant-looking tadpoles swimming about.

Anyway, on this particular Friday parking was a nightmare. The small trailhead is in a ritzy residential neighborhood where you best not even think of parking on the street.  At the back of the trailhead is a turnaround area and a Jeep road.  I waited in this area for at least 30 minutes for a parking spot. Jeepers and ATVs were whizzing by dangerously close to my car.  Of course others were waiting too.  As the first batch of hikers came off the trail, I (politely) informed other waiters I had been there first. Surprisingly nobody gave me a hard time. As the previous hikers backed out I enacted the universal sign of a claimed parking spot—I sat their anxiously, turn signal flashing...

I hoped with all the recent rain the pools would be a little fuller/cleaner. They were better, and no tadpoles this time.  After the pools Soilers Pass gives way to red rock scenery and small arroyos. This opens up to magnificent cliffs as you start to ascend Brins Mesa.  Near the top of Brins Mesa U.S. Forest Service Rangers were trimming manzanita bushes. A misty rain was falling off and on. I didn't go far on Brins Mesa. Someday under better conditions I'd like to go further on Brins and see where it leads to.

Despite the parking wait time and somewhat soggy conditions, this hike was totally worth it. Soilders Pass is a great winter-day (or any time!) hike in West Sedona.

Bear Mountain - A Not-So-Secret Part of West Sedona

Weather:  52º, clouds

About this Hike:  I'm an avid Sedona hiker, and I made exploring the Dry Creek Basin trails in West Sedona a priority last fall when I spent a week up there.  However, I somehow missed Bear Mountain, this in spite of climbing Bear's little sister Doe Mountain.  The two even share a (paid parking) trailhead.

To get to Bear Mountain you cross the street and walk through a trail on high desert grassland.  Once your ascent begins it's a strenuous but worthwhile climb to the top.  Hiking guides state it's a 2.4 mile hike with 1800 feet of elevation gain.  I seriously challenge the 2.4 mile distance; I think it's more.

Red rock canyon walls give way to white strata as you approach the summit.  There are at least two false summits, and when the main summit comes into view it appears far off—disheartening at times. However, it ends up not being as far away as initial appearances may suggest.

You've reached the main summit when you reach a 'Trail End' sign. The summit is relatively flat, and the terrain is filled with scrubby pines. There is a curious rock pile with a lot of red rocks up there too.  I wonder how it got there; doesn't seem natural.

We got off the mountain and back to the grassland portion right at sunset—cutting it way too close by my standards.  A sunset through the grasslands would've been beautiful; however, despite the clouds the sunset tonight was lackluster.  Bear Mountain is a tough but rewarding hike.  I hope to be back.

Aerie, Doe Mountain, Fay Canyon

Weather:  76º, sunny

About this Hike:  I couldn't wait to check out the Aerie trail.  It sounded wonderful in descriptions.  In reality, it's a lot of flat typical Sedona scenery.  I hiked Aerie to where it joins Doe Mountain and hiked up Doe Mountain.  This was the best part of the hike.  But, Doe Mountain does have it's own parking area.

So that said, getting up Doe Mountain isn't that hard, but it is a fun climb.  On top Doe Mountain is a big mesa.  The views are wonderful and it's very serene and peaceful.  You get a great perspective on Thunder Mountain as well as a "Baby Thunder Mountain" (I really need to find a good topography map) behind it.  You can see into the Brins Mesa and Soilder's Pass area.

Back at the Aerie trailhead, I started down Cockscomb but quickly became bored.  I know about three years ago I did a lot of these trails along the Dry Creek area.  I checked out Boynton Canyon, but with limited time didn't think the $5.00 required parking pass was worth it.  Next time.

I ended up at Fay Canyon, which I did three years ago.  That time I reached the Fay Canyon Arch.  Not feeling so adventurous, I just checked out the trail and left.

It's been a wonderful week of hiking in Sedona / N. AZ.  I'm sore and with shin splints, hence why I decided to cut things a little short today.  All the weeks I've spend in Sedona, and I never cease to find new hikes and things to do in this town.

The Hell with the Bell

Weather:  85º, hot & sunny

About this Hike:  I’ll start by saying I’m done with Bell Rock.  A few years ago I blogged about “failing to ring the bell on top”.  Today I hiked along the Bell Rock Climb trail until the U.S. Forest Service cairns vanished.  I reached what I believe to be as high as sane humans can go.  It’s a spire on the north side of the butte.  Getting up there is tricky, but the dry sandstone offers good traction.

Some European tourists hiked ahead of me and were seated atop the spire.  I had no such luck. I got to the base of the spire but could go no further.  My fear of heights kicked in.  Getting down off that thing was very tricky and I felt panicky at times.  There’s not a well-definied trail, and it takes a lot of careful scrambling.  Meanwhile the cairns of the official (easier, safer) trail seem tauntingly close as you work your way down a layer cake of sandstone. 

So, with RV and bus parking abundant at the (fee) trailhead, I feel that Bell Rock is a tourist trap and not worth my time.  But, for all intents and purposes I reached the top, and I no longer believe there’s a bell up there to ring…

The spire I could've gone to the top of...close enough