Secret Canyon Return - Four Years Later

Weather:  43º, sunny

About this Hike:  I can't believe it was four years ago that I hiked Secret Canyon in January. I mapped this hike out to begin at the Chuckwagon Trailhead which has paved road access. Even with an off-road truck I'm not about to try FR-152. 

One of the highlights of that hike four years ago was discovering a beautiful waterfall in a narrow, red canyon near the junction of Secret Canyon and David Miller trails. With recent snowpack beginning to melt a bit, I thought today might be another waterfall opportunity. 

We parked at Chuckwagon and did the 2.6 mile hike in via Chuckwagon and then along FR-152. Chuckwagon is pretty. FR-152 not so much. The road is currently closed due to poor conditions, but the barricades wouldn't be difficult to move. Recent tire marks in the road indicate this has likely occurred. 

The trail was covered by some snow, although crampons / snowshoes were not required. Exposed patches were often muddy, but it wasn't too difficult to navigate. Recent footprints indicate we weren't the only hikers trying a midwinter exploration along Secret Canyon. 

The area near the aforementioned waterfall is where this trail gets good. Ponderosa pine forest sprouts up, and the creek is bounded by smooth, curvy red rock walls. Today this area was a winter wonderland. Snow caked the trees and shrubs. The creek was solid ice, so therefore the waterfall was not flowing. 

I found a good marker for the waterfall. A woodpecker was going to town on a large ponderosa shortly before the David Miller junction. The tree has a ring of perfect round holes, and the snow around the base was stained with sawdust. Just look for the pecked-up ponderosa and the waterfall overlook is a few steps beyond. 

Four years ago I thought the trail ended at the curvy red cliffs. Back then I didn't use hiking GPS. Today, looking at both my GPS and the footprints in the snow, I realized you're just getting into Secret Canyon. Unfortunately my hiking partner's boots had filled with water, so we needed to turn back. Plus, the sun was sinking behind the mountains and the temperature was dropping fast. 

In a different season I'm thinking about coming back. And if not Secret Canyon, I also want to explore neighboring Bear Sign Trail. Secret Mountain Wilderness has long intrigued me. Here's hoping it's sooner than four years before I'm back here again.

Secret Canyon - Hidden Sedona

Weather:  63º, overcast

About this Hike:  This one's been on my bucket list a while.  In April 2018 I did explore the very beginning of Secret Canyon, but this was an unplanned side excursion after a long hike over Sterling Pass, Sterling Canyon, and Vultee Arch.

The challenge with Secret Canyon is getting there.  The 3.5 miles over Forest Road 152 are more than I'd even like to attempt even with my Tacoma TRD OR.  I learned of a shortcut (~2.5 miles) by parking at Long Canyon and hiking to FR-152 via Chuckwagon Trail.  From there it's about a mile along FR-152 to the Secret Canyon Trailhead. 

This hike to the trailhead was beautiful in and of itself.  Chuckwagon is high above Dry Creek, which is still not living up to it's name based on the cascades of water flowing through.  This route added an hour in both directions just getting to the trailhead.  Surprising, because I can usually average 4+ MPH in good hiking conditions. 

Secret Canyon's beauty needs to be kept a secret.  It's so close, yet so far away from the circus that Devil's Bridge has become.  Secret Canyon could be a satisfying alternative to West Fork.  No, it's not as beautiful as West Fork, but it's sheer remoteness drives away the flocks of tourists that wait in long lines to access the Fork. 

The creeks in Secret Canyon were flowing strong which made it all the more magical.  The trail largely runs parallel high above a creek.  A mile or so in and snow began to appear.  At about 2.5 miles in, scrub oak and old-growth ponderosa forest offered shade and fragrant scents. 

Eventually the trail dropped in the creekbed and parallel to a massive red-rock wall.  I assume the trail begins to follow the creek here, which was impassable due to the high volume of icy water rushing down.  This made a good stop-and-turn-around point. 

High above the creek on the way out, I could hear the distinct roar of a waterfall.  Finding a safe vantage to view it was another challenge.  Following my ears, I picked up a side trail to a stunning overlook point that was the highlight of this hike.  A flume was pouring out of the red rocks and filling a pool below with deep blue water.  It reminded of something you'd see in Watkins Glen, NY, only with red sandstone instead of limestone shale. 

Part of me wishes I could have gone all 4.5 - 5 miles to the end of this trail.  Another part of me thinks I got pretty close and likely saw the best there was to see of Secret Canyon.  There are a number of trails that intersect with Secret Canyon, so I wouldn't be surprised if someday I'm back to explore more of this stunning area.

Arizona Cypress Trail: Redeeming Value for this Trip

Weather:  78º, sunny

About this Hike:  Yesterday's hikes were a bust.  AZ Cypress trail in the Dry Creek Basin of Sedona was redeeming value to this Sedona trip.

The trailhead is down a short dirt road (more like a driveway) just off Dry Creek road prior to the 'Y' in the road that leads toward Fay and Boyton Canyons.  Enroute I passed many suckers parking their cars on precarious (and possibly illegal?) angles in an effort to get out to Devil's Bridge (I remember the good ol' days when this wasn't a Instagram hot spot).

Anyway, AZ Cypress was much quieter.  The driveway leads to a large open dirt area that would be abundant parking.  However, the silence was quickly broken by target shooters firing into a soft berm.  I opted to park the truck just off the road the trailhead lest they pump lead into it.  There's room for two vehicles here.  Otherwise, it's a short walk from the open dirt area.

The sound of gunfire aside, this was a very peaceful hike. The AZ Cypress trail starts off in soft sand as it leads toward a dry creekbed.  I'm guessing that creek overflows when water is present, hence the sand and soft, erroded berms.  Oh and the cypress trees.  These have to be some of the biggest Arizona Cypresses I've ever seen—bigger than examples on the Mogollon Rim.  Surely these are abundantly watered trees, further evidence that the dry creek can sometimes be a raging torrent.

The well-mapped and signed network of trails in this area lends to some beautiful views of Sedona and west toward Mingus Mountain, Jerome, and even Prescott. 

There were some sycamores near the creekbed that I tried to think of as fall color, even if they just turn brownish-orange. 

A full and satisfying afternoon of exploration was capped off by a hike back to the truck along AZ Cypress.  It was quiet at the trailhead.  A shot rang out.  I startled and hurt my neck.  Time to head back to town for a beer at Sedona Beer Company.  

Robber's Roost Hideout & Casner Mountain

Weather:  77º, sunny

About this Hike:  The Sedona icon Robber's Roost Hideout Cave has been on my shortlist to visit for a while.  Now that I have the 4x4 truck this Red Rock Country landmark is readily accessible.

We've been in a fairly dry spell here in Arizona, and the dirt road out to Robber's Roost would have been passable in most any SUV or even a sedan.  It did have a few small washes to cross, so probably not the best idea if wet weather is in the forecast. 

I parked at the main parking lot for the cave.  It's about another mile hike up the un-maintained dirt road to the trailhead.  The trail is short and becomes difficult to follow, although there were cairns.  Eventually it leads to the little red butte that houses Robber's Roost.

I'm honestly amazed at how many people have made it to this cave (if you want to call it that—it looks more like an indentation in the side of the butte).  I'm even more amazed at the pictures I see of coolers, chairs, and party favors in the cave.  You see, the trail eventually gives way to a narrow red-rock shelf.  The shelf slopes downward.  Downward is a sheer drop several hundred feet off a cliff. No hiking guides I read advised of this. 

I have severe fear of heights.  With no handholds, and a slope in the slippery red-rock trail, the odds were not in my favor.  I tried to be brave and press on.  I began to shake violently. 

Part of hiking is knowing your limits and knowing when to turn back.  I was completely disappointed, because from what I understand the cave was just around the corner from the treacherous point in the trail.  My fear of heights has limited me before on past hikes, but living to hike another day is more important.

A flat rock made for a comfortable bench while someone else in my hiking party braved the steep ledge.  His report back:  The cave and the surrounding views are overrated.

The next part of the hike was a short walk along the road to Casner Mountain trail.  This was described in a hiking guide as a set of switchbacks leading to the top of a mesa with elk meadows and possibly some pine forest.  Sounded beautiful. 

What I got was an extremely steep hike up with loud, buzzy high-voltage lines overhead. The trail ascends through dry desert grassland, and trees/scrub are sparse. The entire trail is exposed.  It's actually an old maintenance road for the power lines. 

Water and daylight were both running lower than I'd like.  I made it to what ended up being a false summit on Casner and decided to turn back. 

From near the top of Casner I looked down into a picturesque Sedona landscape with red-rock buttes and spires, and the yawning expanse of Sycamore Canyon.  Turns out another mile down the dirt road would have taken me to a trailhead for Sycamore Canyon. 

While both my hikes were a bust today, I may come back to explore more of Sycamore Canyon.  Apparently there's a 19 mile loop through the canyon that also takes you up Casner Mountain on the backside.  Like I've often said, all that hiking teaches me is there are more trails I want to explore. 

Bear Mountain Summit & Long Canyon via Deadman's Pass

Weather:  67º, cloudy, very windy

About this Hike:  Back in January of 2017 I climbed Bear Mountain for the first time.  It was a fun, steep, and challenging hike then, and it still is to this day. 

The waterfall near the beginning of Bear Mountain was dry and the San Francisco Peaks were barren of snow as well––testament to this year of drought.

Besides the challenge, I enjoy the sweeping vistas and views into the surrounding Secret Mountain Wilderness-area canyons.  There are also spectacular views all the way south to Bell Rock and north toward the San Francisco Peaks. 

I also believe I saw the Robbers Den cave trailhead.  This was on my list of spots to explore when I have my Xterra in Sedona (due to the dirt road), but I've heard it's a heavily trafficked tourist trap.  The view from above sufficed.

After completing Bear, I wanted to do something more in the Dry Creek area and opted for Long Canyon via Deadman's Pass.  The trail is accessed at Boynton Canyon Trailhead.  I should also mention that these popular, crowded parking areas do require a Red Rocks Pass and kiosks are available at most parking lots. 

Long Canyon was an especially awesome hike as it was unexplored territory for me.  Once you're into the actual canyon it follows a dry creekbed.  The foliage gets thicker and you're in shaded forest largely comprised of juniper, AZ Cypress, and some pines.  Dramatic red and buff-colored cliff walls surround.  You have to just simply pause and take in all the unique lines, spires, temples, and shapes that time and erosion have carved into the sandstone. 

I explored Long Canyon for about 1.5 miles and then returned the way I came.  It's far too long (no pun intended!) of a trail for one day, especially after an intense climb up Bear Mountain.  While the temps were great today and the cloud cover kept the scorching sun off, the wind was a force to contend with.  By the end of my hike the gusts were whipping up dust devils everywhere, and I was glad to be finished. 

Secret Mountain and the Dry Creek Basin intrigue me every time I visit Sedona and leave me with future hiking plans in this area.  There are so many canyons to be explored here.

Canyon view from atop Bear Mountain

Like puzzle pieces....

Sweeping Long Canyon vista

Soilders Pass Arch/Cave

Weather:  67º, overcast, breezy

About this Hike:  Thanks to joining the Arizona Hiking Facebook group I discovered the Soilders Arch and cave along the Soilders Pass trail in Sedona.  As I read up on the hike, I realized it's not a very long or difficult hike. Good thing, because I was on time constraints today. I had strict orders to be back at my parent's hotel for a timeshare presentation this afternoon...some non-sense about me attending would get an additional free gift.  I'd much rather have been hiking.

I've traversed Soilders Pass trail several times, visiting the obligatory sinkhole and the Seven Sacred Pools of Sedona.  Each time parking at the tiny Soilders Pass trailhead has been very difficult.  On-street parking in the tony neighborhood that surrounds the trailhead is forbidden, as numerous signs point out. 

Angry and frustrated, I worked my way over to the Jordan Road trailhead.  This ended up being a blessing in disguise.  About one mile over dirt road is required, but it's in very good shape and passable with a passenger car.  Just exercise care on the smooth, flat rock portion that mimics pavement––toward the end are some nasty ruts. 

Jordan Road is a much bigger parking area than Soilders Pass.  An additional 20 - 30 minutes of hiking through relatively level, Arizona Cypress-dotted Sedona landscape is all that is required to reach Soilders Pass.  If you want some elevation gain, a shorter, steeper alternate trail deviates from Jordan and goes over Cibola Pass.

So on to the arches... If you use HikeArizona.com, be warned––it says the turn off for the arch/cave is 1/8 of a mile from the Seven Pools.  In reality it's at least a mile from there.  HikeArizona.com does get it right regarding the wilderness boundary sign.  It's small and on a tree, but it marks the well-defined fork in the trail.  At this point bear right and begin the steep ascent to the arch. 

I covered the majority of the ~1/4 mile climb to the arch in five minutes.  I have my Piestewa and Camelback climbs to thank for that, I suppose.  Toward the end it gets a bit treacherous and more care is required. 

Rock pile I wasn't climbing...

At the actual cave you have to step on a rickety pile of rocks and then hoist yourself up.  There are OK hand/foot holds cut into the rock, but standing on that quaking rock pile just didn't work for me.  Much as I wanted to go into the cave, I only poked my head in.  There is a tin box where you can sign the visitor log, and I actually saw another hiker doing just that.  While he admonished me to go into the cave because, "It's not that bad," I couldn't do it.  That rock pile took me back to the scene from Home Alone 2 when the burglars attempted to build a ladder of sorts out of household junk...
 
Regardless, the area around the cave is magnificent.  The centuries-old sandstone under the arches is laced with huge fissures.  Sunlight streams thru in places.  Gigantic boulders are caught in the fissures, dangling precariously.  Under the arches the sandstone has become so brittle as to peel like old wallpaper.

I've explored a lot in this area in recent years.  Discovering Jordan Trailhead was a silver lining in a frustrating situation early on.  I look forward to continued exploration along Soilders Pass, Jordan Trail, and Brins Mesa.

One of the smaller cave arches

Striated sandstone

Bear Mountain - A Not-So-Secret Part of West Sedona

Weather:  52º, clouds

About this Hike:  I'm an avid Sedona hiker, and I made exploring the Dry Creek Basin trails in West Sedona a priority last fall when I spent a week up there.  However, I somehow missed Bear Mountain, this in spite of climbing Bear's little sister Doe Mountain.  The two even share a (paid parking) trailhead.

To get to Bear Mountain you cross the street and walk through a trail on high desert grassland.  Once your ascent begins it's a strenuous but worthwhile climb to the top.  Hiking guides state it's a 2.4 mile hike with 1800 feet of elevation gain.  I seriously challenge the 2.4 mile distance; I think it's more.

Red rock canyon walls give way to white strata as you approach the summit.  There are at least two false summits, and when the main summit comes into view it appears far off—disheartening at times. However, it ends up not being as far away as initial appearances may suggest.

You've reached the main summit when you reach a 'Trail End' sign. The summit is relatively flat, and the terrain is filled with scrubby pines. There is a curious rock pile with a lot of red rocks up there too.  I wonder how it got there; doesn't seem natural.

We got off the mountain and back to the grassland portion right at sunset—cutting it way too close by my standards.  A sunset through the grasslands would've been beautiful; however, despite the clouds the sunset tonight was lackluster.  Bear Mountain is a tough but rewarding hike.  I hope to be back.

Aerie, Doe Mountain, Fay Canyon

Weather:  76º, sunny

About this Hike:  I couldn't wait to check out the Aerie trail.  It sounded wonderful in descriptions.  In reality, it's a lot of flat typical Sedona scenery.  I hiked Aerie to where it joins Doe Mountain and hiked up Doe Mountain.  This was the best part of the hike.  But, Doe Mountain does have it's own parking area.

So that said, getting up Doe Mountain isn't that hard, but it is a fun climb.  On top Doe Mountain is a big mesa.  The views are wonderful and it's very serene and peaceful.  You get a great perspective on Thunder Mountain as well as a "Baby Thunder Mountain" (I really need to find a good topography map) behind it.  You can see into the Brins Mesa and Soilder's Pass area.

Back at the Aerie trailhead, I started down Cockscomb but quickly became bored.  I know about three years ago I did a lot of these trails along the Dry Creek area.  I checked out Boynton Canyon, but with limited time didn't think the $5.00 required parking pass was worth it.  Next time.

I ended up at Fay Canyon, which I did three years ago.  That time I reached the Fay Canyon Arch.  Not feeling so adventurous, I just checked out the trail and left.

It's been a wonderful week of hiking in Sedona / N. AZ.  I'm sore and with shin splints, hence why I decided to cut things a little short today.  All the weeks I've spend in Sedona, and I never cease to find new hikes and things to do in this town.