Secret Canyon

Weather:  61º, sunny

About this Hike:  The mystique of Secret Canyon and Secret Mountain Wilderness continues to allure me. Coming off a rainy spell, I decided to hike to Secret Canyon today to see if the waterfall was flowing. I hiked in via Chuckwagon, having parked along the side of the paved Long Canyon Road. Even if FR-152 were open (barricades are up), I would never attempt this in my truck. The mud, the ruts—152 is hardly a road anymore. It's a shame too, because it limits how much of this area one can explore in a day, with at least five extra miles hiking by using Chuckwagon as an access point. 

The Secret Canyon waterfall had decent flow to it today. Being as I reached it by noon, I opted to press on. Every other time I've done this trail circumstances have never allowed me to go much beyond the waterfall. Today that changed. I pressed into Secret Canyon.

There were plenty of creek crossings, although always with solid rock bridges. The creek was flowing enough to be pretty, but not enough to impede crossings. The canyon was cold in spots, with some snow remaining while icicles hung off the red canyon walls. At one point the creek narrowed into a little slot canyon. 

The trail crossed the creek, climbed up above it, and then dropped down to cross again.  This cycle repeated often. Beyond the red canyon walls, this secret area is filled with ponderosa pine and some firs. It is beautiful. However, it does feel very remote, and I had a foreboding sense today. No worries though, the only wildlife I saw was a deer. My footing was always solid. And remote as it feels, Edge of the World sits just above Secret Canyon on the rim top. 

I opted to turn around about halfway into Secret Canyon per the All Trails GPS track. The trail was getting more overgrown and harder to follow. I figured it would just get more treacherous the deeper I went. While old-growth pine and red rocks are beautiful, the scenery was getting to be a little underwhelming. 

The hike out felt endless. I was tired and a little sore. If only the Secret Canyon parking area is where this hike ended with my truck waiting to carry me out on a graded gravel road! There was still close to three miles back along FR-152 and then Chuckwagon. 

With a properly equipped ATV I imagine one can explore a lot more of Secret Mountain Wilderness. Maps indicate miles of forest roads on the rim top near Edge of the World. There are some intriguing trails up there, although I get the impression most of those exist only on maps and in memories these days. I'll be honest—the mystique is wearing off. I'm beginning to think I've seen the best of what I can access in Secret Canyon. 

Secret Canyon Return - Four Years Later

Weather:  43º, sunny

About this Hike:  I can't believe it was four years ago that I hiked Secret Canyon in January. I mapped this hike out to begin at the Chuckwagon Trailhead which has paved road access. Even with an off-road truck I'm not about to try FR-152. 

One of the highlights of that hike four years ago was discovering a beautiful waterfall in a narrow, red canyon near the junction of Secret Canyon and David Miller trails. With recent snowpack beginning to melt a bit, I thought today might be another waterfall opportunity. 

We parked at Chuckwagon and did the 2.6 mile hike in via Chuckwagon and then along FR-152. Chuckwagon is pretty. FR-152 not so much. The road is currently closed due to poor conditions, but the barricades wouldn't be difficult to move. Recent tire marks in the road indicate this has likely occurred. 

The trail was covered by some snow, although crampons / snowshoes were not required. Exposed patches were often muddy, but it wasn't too difficult to navigate. Recent footprints indicate we weren't the only hikers trying a midwinter exploration along Secret Canyon. 

The area near the aforementioned waterfall is where this trail gets good. Ponderosa pine forest sprouts up, and the creek is bounded by smooth, curvy red rock walls. Today this area was a winter wonderland. Snow caked the trees and shrubs. The creek was solid ice, so therefore the waterfall was not flowing. 

I found a good marker for the waterfall. A woodpecker was going to town on a large ponderosa shortly before the David Miller junction. The tree has a ring of perfect round holes, and the snow around the base was stained with sawdust. Just look for the pecked-up ponderosa and the waterfall overlook is a few steps beyond. 

Four years ago I thought the trail ended at the curvy red cliffs. Back then I didn't use hiking GPS. Today, looking at both my GPS and the footprints in the snow, I realized you're just getting into Secret Canyon. Unfortunately my hiking partner's boots had filled with water, so we needed to turn back. Plus, the sun was sinking behind the mountains and the temperature was dropping fast. 

In a different season I'm thinking about coming back. And if not Secret Canyon, I also want to explore neighboring Bear Sign Trail. Secret Mountain Wilderness has long intrigued me. Here's hoping it's sooner than four years before I'm back here again.

Wintry West Fork

Weather:  ~40° and sunny

About this Hike:  Years ago I visited the Sedona tourist trap known as West Fork. Back then there was a 20 minute wait in line followed by a $9 parking fee.

Being as COVID made everyone an outdoorsman and Sedona has become even more overrun with tourists, I never planned to visit West Fork again.

That changed after I drove by it on the way up to Flagstaff for some snowshoeing yesterday. In fact, West Fork was closed, but people were parked outside the gate.

I decided to head up to West Fork today, snowshoeing gear loaded in the truck. I had no idea what to expect. In fact, I had no expectations at all, just an open mind. Upon arrival the parking lot was plowed and the gates open. The guard shack was staffed, meaning I had to pay the now $12 parking fee. But unlike most any other season, there were only a few cars in the parking lot and open spaces were plentiful. Several inches of fresh powder covered the ground, rivaling what I experienced up in Flag yesterday.

I strapped on my snowshoes and ventured out. As I passed through the ruins of the old buildings and across the wooden footbridge, I began to realize I got way more than I expected. Red rock cliffs soared up thousands of feet. The forest looked enchanted with snow clinging to the ponderosas and firs that grow in this lush canyon. The crossings over Oak Creek were never too difficult, thanks to surprisingly thick ice sheeting. Still, I used abundant caution, tapping the ice with my snowshoe poles and determining alternate routes if the ice cracked or appeared weak. Thankfully my efforts paid off and I never got a ‘hot’ foot in Oak Creek.

Enjoying the solitude and scenery around me, I pushed to complete the West Fork trail—a goal that I eventually met. A sign at the end advises the maintained trail is done. Brave hikers can continue down the canyon, although a narrow, deep pool awaits as the creek now becomes one with the trail. I pushed on just a little further past the sign. I wanted to see this pool. It wasn’t far ahead. In fact the sun hitting the steep red cliffs made the ice glow pink. It was a fitting end.

I turned around and hiked out the way I came. My feet were soaked. Snow finds its way into boots no matter what you do. Gratefully my feet never got cold, just very wet. I knew I had to hustle, as the sun was behind the canyon walls by 3PM. The sun had been warm in the canyon and the beautiful power I snowshoed across this morning was now heavy, wet snow. It was sticking to my crampons and making my snowshoes very heavy…along with my soaked socks.  

As the fence line, footbridge, and ruins came into view, I was ready to wrap it up for the day. However, I thoroughly enjoyed the scenery and serenity a wintertime hike along the 6.5 mile West Fork trail offers. I never thought I’d explore West Fork again, much less have it almost to myself (minus a few other brave hikers). I got my $12 worth, for sure.

Loy Canyon - FINALLY!

Weather:  70°; clouds and sun

I love Secret Mountain Wilderness. I've explored Secret Canyon from Sedona before, and I couldn't wait to explore more of Secret Mountain via Loy Canyon. It's taken the last six months for this hike to materialize. Each time I'd plan a trip to Sedona, the weather would turn for the worst and I'd have to cancel. 

Finally, with ideal spring weather upon us, I made an impulse decision to do a Saturday trip up to Red Rock Country.  

The road out to Loy Canyon TH isn't bad at all, which is surprising after the wet winter we've had. It's maintained dirt/gravel, and the utility poles that follow the road remind you you're not far from civilization, remote as it may feel out there. 

This hike begins in Red Rock Country, which gives way to beautiful old-growth forest. Then it gets less pretty as you emerge from forest into desert scrub and sandstone. This section is the switchbacks that ascend up to Secret Mountain. Definitely watch your footing in here, as the trail is a shelf in some sections. The views of Secret Mountain and the canyon are breathtaking. 

Once through the switchbacks I reached the saddle and junction with Secret Mountain. I first went to the south, but the trail gave out quickly. Massive trees have fallen, and the trail is not only blocked but tore up with huge gashes that are impassable. The elk are certainly enjoying this area of Secret Mountain. Whatever's on top of Secret Mountain may have to wait for another day (doubtful as my understanding is this section isn't being maintained anymore).

I opted to go to the north and hiked over to the Secret Mountain TH. I was actually impressed to see this is a semi-developed TH. I put down my pack here and had lunch. The creeks in the lower elevations of Loy Canyon were bone dry which is unexpected after this wet winter AND there's patchy snow on Secret Mountain. However, in the higher elevations water is still flowing. I first heard and then spied two beautiful waterfalls across the canyon. I also heard, but did not see, what was most certainly a rock slide somewhere in the canyon. 

Unable to explore Secret Mountain further, I returned the way I came. I'm so glad to check this one off my bucket list, but I may be back.  My understanding is that there are some impressive Native ruins to explore in Loy Canyon.

Secret Canyon - Hidden Sedona

Weather:  63º, overcast

About this Hike:  This one's been on my bucket list a while.  In April 2018 I did explore the very beginning of Secret Canyon, but this was an unplanned side excursion after a long hike over Sterling Pass, Sterling Canyon, and Vultee Arch.

The challenge with Secret Canyon is getting there.  The 3.5 miles over Forest Road 152 are more than I'd even like to attempt even with my Tacoma TRD OR.  I learned of a shortcut (~2.5 miles) by parking at Long Canyon and hiking to FR-152 via Chuckwagon Trail.  From there it's about a mile along FR-152 to the Secret Canyon Trailhead. 

This hike to the trailhead was beautiful in and of itself.  Chuckwagon is high above Dry Creek, which is still not living up to it's name based on the cascades of water flowing through.  This route added an hour in both directions just getting to the trailhead.  Surprising, because I can usually average 4+ MPH in good hiking conditions. 

Secret Canyon's beauty needs to be kept a secret.  It's so close, yet so far away from the circus that Devil's Bridge has become.  Secret Canyon could be a satisfying alternative to West Fork.  No, it's not as beautiful as West Fork, but it's sheer remoteness drives away the flocks of tourists that wait in long lines to access the Fork. 

The creeks in Secret Canyon were flowing strong which made it all the more magical.  The trail largely runs parallel high above a creek.  A mile or so in and snow began to appear.  At about 2.5 miles in, scrub oak and old-growth ponderosa forest offered shade and fragrant scents. 

Eventually the trail dropped in the creekbed and parallel to a massive red-rock wall.  I assume the trail begins to follow the creek here, which was impassable due to the high volume of icy water rushing down.  This made a good stop-and-turn-around point. 

High above the creek on the way out, I could hear the distinct roar of a waterfall.  Finding a safe vantage to view it was another challenge.  Following my ears, I picked up a side trail to a stunning overlook point that was the highlight of this hike.  A flume was pouring out of the red rocks and filling a pool below with deep blue water.  It reminded of something you'd see in Watkins Glen, NY, only with red sandstone instead of limestone shale. 

Part of me wishes I could have gone all 4.5 - 5 miles to the end of this trail.  Another part of me thinks I got pretty close and likely saw the best there was to see of Secret Canyon.  There are a number of trails that intersect with Secret Canyon, so I wouldn't be surprised if someday I'm back to explore more of this stunning area.