Annual Hackberry Springs

Weather:  68°, sunny

About this Hike:  Hackberry Springs is an annual Christmastime tradition. It's an easily accessible hike in the Western Superstitions. Hackberry Trail allows you to feel disconnected from the hustle and bustle of the East Valley, all while taking in the dramatic volcanic rock formations, creekbeds, and riparian areas that the Superstitions are famous for. 

In a good year what makes this a festive hike is the red berries on the hackberry bushes.  I've seen a few berries this year (including one full bush along Boulder Canyon last weekend), but nothing too dramatic.  Maybe I'm too early.  In past years I've done this hike in December.  

Regardless, the best part of one particular hackberry bush was not the lack of red berries, but rather the flock of queen butterflies (related to monarch) all over the bush.  Upon closer inspection, I noticed pale, tiny flowers on the hackberry bush.  The butterflies were busy pollinating.  

The spring was dry, although there was water around the springhead.  I saw some minnows in the pool, but nothing like the bright, iridescent topminnows of last year. 

We ended up going toward Second Water Trail and followed it south for a while.  We crossed First Water Creek several times.  Much of this area burned a couple years ago.  Aside from scorched saguaros, you'd hardly know it.  The buffalo grass is so thick again, just waiting to spontaneously combust. 

On the All Trails map I noted a path that would take us north back toward Hackberry Trail.  We also intended to visit the old First Water Ranch.  We had a difficult time finding the northbound side trail, but once discovered, it was well-worn with footprints and some equestrian evidence.  I'm not sure how it all came together, but this side trail dropped us right at First Water Ranch.

We took a nice break at the ranch.  Last year when we discovered this site for the first time, it was twilight and we were in a hurry to conclude our hike. I enjoyed studying the old artifacts including a water cistern that will never hold water again due to being used for target practice, and an old well.  I wonder when First Water Ranch was built and how long it was used for.  Rust hasn't set in to a lot of the metal, and the artifacts don't seem that old.  Since these trails get heavy equestrian use, I'm guessing it's still used to rest horses under the shaded pavilion.  

From the ranch we hiked up the old road and then we were back at Hackberry Trailhead.  

La Barge Box Canyon

Weather:  70°, sunny, windy early

About this Hike:  I've explored Boulder Canyon 103 from Canyon Lake and from Second Water more times than I can count.  While the views of Canyon Lake, Battleship Mountain, and Weaver's Needle are impressive, this is old news to me at this point.

In past years I've also explored Boulder Canyon along the western flank of the Battleship.  But I have never explored the eastern side of the Battleship which follows La Barge Canyon.  Today I decided to give this a shot.  

Although La Barge Canyon shows as a trail on the All Trails app—and the number of footprints in the sand attests to it's use as a trail—it is not an official Forest Service trail.  There is plenty of boulder hopping and some light scrambling.  There were a couple of points on the hike up the canyon where I almost turned around and gave up.  I'm glad I didn't.  I kept exploring, studying the rocks, and problem solving.  I always managed to find a navigable path up and over the boulders.  

At 1.3 miles in, my efforts paid off and I was rewarded with views of the La Barge Box Pool.  All along the canyon were pools of standing water, but the Box Pool was nice and full.  This water feature is flanked by impressive canyon walls and a thin, delicate rock needle.  

At the Box Pool the trail takes a sharp 90-degree turn.  There is a large, shady tree (ironwood?) with a campsite underneath.  The trail leaves the creek bed and appears to be normal dirt track again.  This would wrap around the backside of the Battleship and eventually join Boulder Canyon Trail 103, effectively making it a 'lollipop' loop hike.  Taking the Boulder Canyon route would add at least 1.5 miles to my hike.  I was at the midpoint for daylight, and I had drank more water than expected.  Additionally, I wondered at the trail condition, especially on the backside of the Battleship.  Would it be overgrown?  Difficult to follow?  I opted to return the way I came via La Barge Canyon.  

The hike out of La Barge was surprisingly easier than the hike in.  The scrambles and boulder hops didn't seem as intimidating, and I was back at the junction for Boulder Canyon within an hour.  I enjoyed reflecting pools of water, fall color, and cliff views on the way out of La Barge. 

I find La Barge Canyon a very intriguing ecosystem, just like the rest of the Superstitions.  You can read about a another La Barge hike that I did about one year ago.  I'm glad to have explored another end of this majestic canyon.  

Haunted Canyon 2022

Weather:  71°, sunny

About this Hike: Haunted Canyon has become an October tradition now since I first explored the lower trailhead in 2020.  Last year, I explored the upper trailhead.  This is actually one trail, but the convergence point is at a meadow that leads to the abandoned cabin at Tony Ranch.   

Shortly after starting, this hike climbs a ridge above Haunted Canyon. Despite being in high-desert grassland with some juniper/cypress forest, there are some healthy saguaros up on the ridge. It's so cool to see these majestic cacti co-existing in an ecosystem typically outside their range. 

Past what I like to call Saguaro Ridge, the trail dips down into Pinto Creek, which forms Haunted Canyon.  My recollection of the lower trailhead from two years ago is that it was easy to follow and well blazed.  This year was a little different.  Sections of the trail are getting crowded with live oak and catclaw.  Two years ago 2020 had been an exceptionally dry year.  Pinto Creek was dry that year.  This year parts of it were flowing strong, while other parts were dry.  The damp creek beds were full of leafs-of-three, most of which were turning brilliant fall colors.  I definitely brushed my hiking pants against some of these, despite my best efforts to sidestep.  So far no rash and itching...  

At times the trail became difficult to follow and I found myself off trail and getting increasingly aggravated.  I met a large group of back packers, and they were helpful to follow.  

For all the difficulty getting to the junction with the side trail to Tony Ranch, the actual hike into the ranch wasn't too bad.  In past years I've found this side trail very difficult to follow.  I think it's probably getting more action, and therefore becoming well-worn, as more people learn about this historic site and come out to explore it. 

I was so annoyed by the hike in that I considered continuing up Trail 203 to the upper trailhead and then returning to the lower trailhead via FR-287A to form a 13.5 mile loop.  However, the overgrowth is likely bad on the upper parts of 203 as well (it was bad in parts last year).  I opted to just return the way I came, which was a good choice.  The hike back to the trailhead parking ended up being more enjoyable.  I think it was because I was more mentally prepared for the annoying overgrowth.  Despite the flowing creek, I saw next to no wildlife, although there was plenty of bear evidence.  

I'm glad to keep this Halloweekend tradition going for another year.  

Roger's Canyon Cliff Dwellings

Weather:  72°, clouds & sun

About this Hike:  I said I never wanted to attempt the notorious FR172 to Roger's Trough Trailhead in the Eastern Superstitions. Back in April of 2021 I even used Campaign Creek as a means of accessing Reavis Ranch so as to avoid the drive up to Roger's Trough.

Then I began reading about maintenance done on FR172 early in 2022.  And I had read about the Roger's Canyon Cliff Dwellings that are also accessible from Roger's Trough Trailhead. 

I decided to give FR172 a try.  Despite being re-graded earlier this year, the road is in rough shape.  The last four miles where it splits into FR172A and 172B are exceptionally bad. I have a mostly stock TRD Off-Road Tacoma. The truck performed excellent and never so much as slipped a tire. That said, I did slightly bottom out once on a rut. If you choose to do this road, it's a beautiful desert drive, but the road is scary in spots. 

Once parked at Roger's Trough Trailhead, we started off toward Roger's Canyon.  The first mile and a half of the hike follows the Reavis Ranch Trail. Roger's Canyon eventually forks off at a signed junction.

Roger's Canyon Trail 110 exists only in the memories of some, the maps of All Trails, and Tonto Forest's website. The actual trail is overgrown with catclaw and other nasties. However, since this trail parallels Roger's Creek, you simply walk in the dry creek bed. For this reason, I'd only recommend this hike when there hasn't been any recent precip, nor is any in the forecast.

The creekbed is mostly packed sand. However, it does get more challenging with steep drop offs that I'm certain are magnificent waterfalls when the creek is flowing.  Despite some scrambling, there always is a path down; you just have to hunt for it in some places.  Keep in mind your limits when it comes to rock scrambles--you need to come back up whatever you go down. 

The reward at the end of this hike was the Roger's Canyon Cliff Dwellings.  Constructed by the Salado Indians approximately 600 years ago, it's amazing these ruins are still so in tact.  A path leaves the creek bed and leads up to the first couple of ruins.  I even found some old pottery shards.  

From the creek bed an upper cave with more ruins is clearly visible. From photos I've studied, this upper cave has a fully intact pueblo in it. Unfortunately, it requires a scramble on the cliff face up a rock mezzanine.  My fear of heights wasn't having it. 

My hope was to continue down Roger's Creek and to Angel Basin. However, the creek bed was getting more narrow and technical in nature all the time.  Daylight was of the essence, as I wanted to be off the worst of FR172 before dark.  I opted to return the way I came. 

Despite being an out-and-back, there was plenty of scenery to be enjoyed that I had overlooked on the hike in.  The rough, jagged volcanic rocks that make up the Superstitions have many beautiful formations including needles, spires, and rock arches.  And despite 2019's Woodbury Fire in this area, it never got into Roger's Canyon.  There's still plenty of healthy trees and foliage to enjoy in the lush canyon. 

I don't know that I'll ever brave FR172 again.  I have fear of heights and the rutted shelf portions of this road had me puckering the entire drive.  But regardless, I'm glad to check this cool hike and piece of AZ history off my bucket list.

Grand Falls

Weather:  71º, mix of sun, clouds, and rain

About this Hike:  Rainy weather has messed up my Sedona hiking plans for this week.  My originally scheduled hike up Secret Mountain via Loy Canyon has to be postponed to another time.  Even when there are breaks in the rain and the sun comes out, it is scorching at this elevation and the humidity is high.  The Loy Canyon hike needs to be for a cooler time of year. 

Regardless, today was a "when life gives you lemons..." scenario.  All the rain has led to high flow rates on the Little Colorado River which means Grand Falls are flowing strong.  I feel like I should have stayed in Flagstaff.  Three of the five days of this week in Sedona I've ended up going up to the Flagstaff area.  

Grand Falls is actually about a 40 mile drive east of Flagstaff on Navajo land.  There's about nine miles of dirt road after leaving the pavement to get out to the falls.  It's a very wide and good dirt road, but with extreme washboarding. 

Once you arrive, the parking area overlooks the falls.  There's picnic shelters and tables, interpretive signs, and a bathroom.  All of this comes with no fees or red tape, which is surprising.  

If you want to get down close to the falls, it's about a half-mile hike and it does have some scrambling near the end.  I downloaded the All Trails map.  While you wouldn't think this is necessary for such a short hike, following the trail is a bit tricky in spots, so it helps to have the map.  

The falls were roaring and showering their "chocolate" mist as we got up close.  Some of the falls are bigger than others, and some look like little ribbons.  The red rock canyon walls contrast with the black volcanic rock and soil that is so prevalent in this part of Arizona.  

A dark cloud formed over the canyon and outflow winds picked up—a sure sign of a thunderstorm.  Thankfully it blew past us and made for some interesting photo-ops when we hiked out of the canyon and back to the observation area.  The dark clouds had pushed along the Little Colorado and onto the distant plain. The lightning far off was dazzling to watch. 

We packed out and made the washboardy drive back to pavement.  There is a parking area at the junction with the paved highway that's good for adjusting tire pressure.  In this case I'd aired down below 25 PSI, in an effort to soften the constant vibration from the washboards.  

All in all, this was an important check off my Arizona bucket list.  I've wanted to see the Grand Falls for a while, and conditions were just such that it was a perfect day to do so. 

Caves of the Dry Creek Basin / Secret Mountain Wilderness

Weather:  79º, mix of sun, clouds, and rain

About this Hike:  This was really two hikes out to separate caves in the Sedona area.  The first cave is the Subway Cave and the second is the Birthing Cave.  I've seen many pictures of both, and wanted to see them up close for myself.  

The Subway Cave is a bone of contention with Sedona locals and preservationists alike. This once little-known area has become an overrun tourist trap, just like so much of Sedona.  On a rainy Tuesday morning the full parking lot at Boynton Canyon attested to this.  

After hiking a few miles up Boynton Canyon, there is a side trail to the Subway.  Someone put fallen tree limbs in front of it, indicating that this is not a trail.  Many a confused tourist continued straight on Boynton Canyon, so the tree limbs served their purpose of throwing off the inexperienced hikers just doing this for the Instagram photos.  

As you approach the Subway, a sign asks that people respect the cultural heritage and significance of this site.  In addition to the cave, there are native ruins and petroglyphs.  

The ruins and petroglyphs are easy to get up to and only require scrambling.  There is something of a mezzanine that wraps around the red rock face from the ruins and into the cave.  However, there are at least two sketchy ledges that one wrong move would lead to a fall of certain death.  The cave can also be accessed via a slick red rock chute at the mouth of the cave.  While older, less-in-shape folks than myself were getting up into the cave, I could not.  I deal with extreme fear of heights, and thought this was one I should sit out.  I climbed up the chute enough to at least see inside the cave.  It was crowded with tourists, and honestly, not that appealing. 

The aptly named Birthing Cave was a lot easier.  A relatively short hike leads to the crevice in the red rock cliffs, and only a scramble is required to get up into the cave.  

From Robbers Roost, to Keyhole, and now to Subway—myself and the Sedona caves have a checkered history.  In fact Birthing Cave is the only one I've been able to fully get inside of.  Loose rock shelves and narrow ledges have kept me from fully getting inside the other caves.  I calculate risk carefully, and these are risks I'm not willing to take. 

Kendrick Peak

Weather:  71º  dry, sunny

About this Hike:   AZ Wilderness Brewing Company spotlights hiking areas in our state via social media posts. They also brewed a beer called Kendrick Kolsch.  A few months ago AZ Wilderness posted about this beer and its namesake hiking area, and I was intrigued. 

I'm a sucker for any hike with a reward at the end, and Kendrick Peak does not disappoint.  The fun begins when you turn off Highway 180 just north of the Nordic Center and onto dirt forest roads.  I'd say these are good forest roads, and they are not shelf roads at all.  However, the first few miles really show the toll a rainy summer can take on dirt track.  The road is full of crater-size potholes.  Extreme caution is advised to navigate around these without destroying your vehicle's suspension.  

Eventually the road conditions do improve.  It's about seven miles over dirt to the well-maintained trailhead.  I was surprised to find a freshly painted latrine and even trash receptacles at the trailhead.  Luxurious, indeed by US Forest Service standards. 

A year ago I did the Bear Jaw Abineau Loop in the not-so-far-off Kachina Peaks Wilderness.  Kendrick lacks the beautiful old-growth forest that is so prevalent on Bear Jaw.  It's not that there isn't any forest—in fact there's plenty of ponderosa, aspen, and some firs—it's just smaller and less dense than other parts of Coconino Forest.

There is some fire damage, which is especially prevalent near the peak.  The hike of about 4.5 miles to the peak is over very well maintained trail.  The elevation gain of just under 3,000 feet is steady but gradual—nothing super steep.  

The first 'false summit' brings you to an area of intense fire damage.  In this area is a small cabin, although I'm certain it's a replica of an older structure.  The trees around it are far too scorched for a wood cabin to have survived in this area.

A little further up the trail and you'll arrive at the Kendrick Fire Lookout.  By fire lookout standards, this one is fairly modern, being composed of nearly all steel.  I couldn't find any road up Kendrick Peak, but there is a helipad next to the fire lookout.  Engravings on the helipad concrete indicate it was built in 1979.  Perhaps the lookout tower was built with supplies air lifted up Kendrick Peak? 

Standing on the helipad is also a good location for enjoying the scenery.  Today was a good air quality day, and the views stretched for miles.  To the north the Grand Canyon was visible.  Humphrey's Peak was also very visible as were rolling green hills and tiny ranches far in the valley below.