Abineau Bear Jaw Loop

Weather:  67º, sunny

About this Hike:  I read about this hike in Phoenix Magazine just a week before taking a trip to Sedona.  I looked it up and then saved this hike on my All Trails app.  

Sedona has been hot this week; almost too hot to hike by mid-day.  I was on the fence about making the drive up to Flagstaff, but am very glad I did.  A quick pit stop at Fry's in Flag for gas and I should have been on my way.  My phone's Google Maps GPS took me toward the east approach for this hike, and after about two miles driving down Historic Route 66 I knew something was wrong.  

I ended up using my truck's built-in GPS and putting in Arizona Nordic Center as the destination. I had to go back past Fry's.  The west approach for Abineau Bear Jaw is said to be much easier than the east approach, and the turn off for it just north of Nordic Center.  

After passing Nordic Center I came to the turn-off for Forest Road 151 a couple miles later.  Then the real fun began.  There are a few turns on dirt forest roads, although all of them are fairly well maintained and signed.  Interestingly, there are cabins and ranches along these roads. At the trailhead parking, I even had cell service.  

All Trails says this hike is 8.5 miles; the Forest Service says 6.8 on their trailhead map.  Since it's a loop you can do it in either direction.  The trail splits at the Kachina Peaks Wilderness sign a short hike down the path from the trailhead.  I went right on Abineau and hiked it counter-clockwise.  Doing so gets the toughest elevation gain over with first and means a more gradual descent.  

This hike takes you through beautiful, unspoiled old-growth forest.  Eventually you leave ponderosa and mixed conifer forest for purely spruce, fir, and high-elevation conifers.  This hike has about 1,800 feet of elevation gain, topping out at around 10,300 feet.  Once at the top, there are sweeping vistas of the Grand Canyon.  At around 10,000 feet, the aspens were beginning to change color.  

The descending hike is more gradual and goes along a trail that has a few names.  The official Forest Service signs call it Bear Jaw.  All Trails calls it Waterline (aptly named as it is an old road with a rusty old water pipe visible).  I also saw one map labeling it as Inner Basin Trail (the edge of the infamous Inner Basin / Lockett Meadow?).  Regardless, it's easy to follow the loop.  

Eventually the old road returns to trail at a junction.  Here the descent gets a little steeper, and you're surrounded by thick forest.  As you get closer to 8,000 feet, the scent of ponderosa pines lets you know the fauna zone is transitioning again.   

This was a hike that nearly didn't happen for multiple reasons.  I am so glad I made the effort to make it happen and I hope to explore more of the Kachina Peaks Wilderness in the future. 

AB Young Trail to East Pocket Fire Lookout - Sedona

Weather:  87º, sunny

About this Hike:  This one has been on my bucket list for a while.  I love hiking up to fire lookout towers.  

In the past when a ranger was manning the tower they'd often invite me up and show all their observation equipment.  Due to COVID that's no longer an option, and signs at the base of the tower warn you as much.  East Pocket Lookout appeared to be closed as the windows had heat-blocking sheets over them and no ranger vehicle was present. 

This hike begins by parking at Bootlegger Picnic Area off 89A.  Finding the trail is tricky as a number of trails go down to Oak Creek from the picnic area.  You just have to look around carefully as there are signs posted.  We went the wrong way at first but eventually found the treacherous creek crossing that kicks off this hike.

We managed to stay dry and successfully crossed Oak Creek on the shaky rock and log bridge previous hikers had built.  AB Young Trail begins in dense riparian pine forest.  It quickly gives way to exposed switchbacks that are a bit overgrown with grass and manzanita.  You might want long pants for this hike.  After an elevation gain of about 2,000 feet this hike begins to become rewarding.  The top of the mountain is flat mesa and ponderosa forest begins to appear.

The views looking into Oak Creek Canyon are like no other.  Highway 89A and even the Bootlegger parking area are tiny specks down below.  Humphrey's Peak is quite prominent to the northeast.  However, this flank of the mountain that points toward Humphrey's has suffered considerable burn damage. 

A walk along the flat top of the mountain eventually leads to the East Pocket Lookout.  You could theoretically skip the hike and drive up the forest road (I believe it's #231) to the lookout, but my guess is that the road is closed to public traffic.  

On the way down we spotted a lean-too built along a scenic part at the top of the mountain.  I imagine it would be magical to camp there and watch the sunset over Oak Creek Canyon and Sedona.  

Reavis Ranch via Gap Loop

Weather:  87º, sunny

Time:  11 hours

About this Hike:  I can finally say I've checked Reavis Ranch off my bucket list.  Go back two years ago when Woodbury Fire was raging, and I never thought I was going to have the chance to experience this place.  Gratefully our wildland firefighters were able to save the ranch site.  

Getting to Reavis Ranch is said not to be a day trip.  The same is said about Grand Canyon Bright Angel rim-to-river and back.  I did that in about eight hours.  One also must weigh which trailhead they want to start at for Reavis Ranch.  Each has pros and cons.  

I opted for the Campaign Creek Trailhead.  Near Roosevelt Lake, it's back about seven miles along a dirt road just off AZ-188.  In terms of the drive, it sounded like it would be much easier than the 18 miles of rough mountain road to Roger's Trough.  The drive was in fact not too difficult.  The road has to get at least some degree of maintenance, as the Reevis Mountain School uses it.  Still, there are creek crossings and sandy spots.  Going in a drier season helped to ensure those obstacles were not an issue.  

Once parked at Campaign Trailhead, I started out on Reavis Gap Trail.  The distance to Reavis Ranch along Gap trail is about the same as Roger's Trough.  However, the elevation gain is much more severe.  While portions are burned, there are still wide areas of healthy juniper, pinon, and even ponderosa pine forest.   After about 4 hours of grueling hike, I reached the ranch.

It was a surreal experience to finally see this place in person.  Once there, you can see just how close the fire came.  It was on the ranch's doorstep.  

My gut told me to treat this as an out-and-back and return via Reavis Gap.  However, the elevation descent looked like it may be more gradual along the Fire Line and then Campaign Creek Trails (I was wrong on that).  Combining these with Reavis Gap forms a 16.2 mile loop.  I disobeyed my gut.  

Fire Line was rocky, scorched, and hard to follow in spots.  Eventually, Fire Line traversed a section of thick ponderosa forest that served as a consolation prize.  Part of the descent on Fire Line was so steep I had to go down on all fours.  

Nightfall came about 7pm.  While I was prepared with plenty of water, headlamp, and spotlight, it was still scary.  Campaign Creek trail is very hard to follow in spots.  Without GPS I wouldn't have made it.  After sunset, it took an additional 3 hours to reach the trailhead.  When I was nearing the end, I ended up off trail several times.  At one point I opened a cattle gate and was in front of a dark cabin.  A dim sodium lamp shined on a building in the distance.  I had trespassed onto Reevis Mountain School and thought seriously about cutting thru as I knew it would take me to the trailhead.  I opted not to, and spent considerable time bushwhacking till I found the correct trail again. 

The Superstitions are beautiful at night.  Desert primerose began opening their showy white petals.  Frogs were peeping in the creek.  The stars overhead were magnificent, even if the light pollution of Phoenix was visible on the horizon.  As I saw multiple cars still parked at the trailhead, I became slightly envious of the backpackers camping out there.  However, night is also when the hunters (mountain lions, bears) are most active.  The Superstitions are mystical, beautiful, and demanding of utter respect.  It is most unforgiving country.  

Thankfully I was prepared.  Had I started this hike a few hours earlier (I started at 11am), it likely wouldn't have ended after dark.  It's an experience I'm grateful to have had, and yet I wish not to have again.  

Buffalo Park (Flagstaff) Snowshoe Adventure

Weather:  37º, sunny

About this Hike:  I have snowshoe hiked at Arizona Nordic Village many times. It's a beautiful forest setting with well groomed and signed trails.  Inevitably after the long drive up to Flagstaff, it often seems to take another hour to get up to the Nordic Village.  Oftentimes, this is the only option as Nordic Village is at higher elevation than downtown Flagstaff.  There may be no snow in town, but plenty to play in at The Village. 

One thing about Arizona snow is that it never lasts long. You need to run to it when it comes.  This is especially true if you want to enjoy it in Flagstaff.  It snows heavy in Flag, but it never stays long.  

This past week going into the weekend was a 'perfect storm.'  I decided to shorten the drive up to Flagstaff and spend Friday night in Sedona.  It's only 28 miles (via SR 89A which was closed) to Flag, right?  It always takes no less than an hour to get between the two Northern Arizona cities.  

Regardless, for the last two years I've wanted to explore more of the extensive network of trails beginning in Buffalo Park and heading toward Mount Elden.  Two years ago I got a small taste of these trails, and was left wanting for a lot more.  

Today did not disappoint.  I estimate we covered somewhere around 6-8 miles.  Unlike Nordic Village's groomed trails, this was trudging thru ungroomed, deep snow.  It was a workout.  The morning started with perfect powder, and as the Arizona sun heated up, the snow became heavier and slushier.  The pines were caked in white, but it soon began dropping in the sun.  I opted to drop my ski sweater, leaving only a thermal athletic shirt on.  I was still too warm most of the time. 

Trails in this network are well labeled with signs and orange blazes on the trees. I still carried a phone with a Buffalo Park map downloaded on the AllTrails app so I could use GPS to help navigate.  It can be a lot trickier following a trail when everything is covered in white.

Buffalo was very busy and people were getting creative with parking (many of which ended up getting stuck!).  This offered me my first chance to drive my truck in the snow, and the 4x4 did not disappoint.  I scored a great parking spot simply because I was able to plow thru several inches of snow without getting stuck. 

I thoroughly enjoyed this snow-venture.  I'm from a city in Upstate New York that holds the same name as the aforementioned park in Flagstaff.  I moved to Arizona to get away from snow.  But Arizona snow is different.  It's warmer.  More of a rare treat.  I appreciate going to the snow to play instead of having it forced on me.  I only wish I lived a little closer to Flag so I could run to the rarity of fresh Arizona snow more often. 

Picketpost Mountain Loop

Weather:  61º, sunny

About this Hike:  I've heard much about hiking to the Picketpost Mountain summit.  It's a lot like Superstition Flatiron, albeit tougher in places.  There's a mailbox on top.  

I had no idea there's a loop trail that goes around the base of Picketpost.  That is, until News Years when someone suggested the loop trail and that we ought to check it out on Friday, being as it was a holiday off from work.

The loop trail is actually comprised of several trails, including Legends of Superior Trail or LOST, among others. Junctions are well-signed, but using the mapped route on AllTrails app was a good fail-safe.  

This trail goes through a lot of riparian canyons.  Tall cottonwoods and even a few wild palms meet saguaro cacti in the Sonoran Desert.  Some oleander saplings were being treated with an herbicide; likely seedlings from nearly Boyce Thompson Arboretum.   An added bonus this year is that (very late) fall color seemed to be nearly at peak among the cottonwoods.  A few creeks had a trickle of water in them.  

I was surprised at how forested this hike was in parts.  Eventually forests gave way to more typical Sonoran Desert landscape.  Regardless, seeing healthy, large saguaros was a nice contrast from my Superstitions hike last month thru this summer's burn scars.

All told, the loop trail is nearly nine easy miles.  There's only a little elevation change.  It was a great way to begin the 2021 hiking season.

Hackberry Springs & Western Superstitions 2020 Annual Hike

Weather:  65º, sunny

About this Hike:  Visiting Hackberry Springs has become a December tradition. Typically the hackberry bushes are in full bloom and the red berries are very festive. Last year we had significant rainfall through October and November leading to beautiful flowing creeks and lush foliage. 

This year Hackberry Springs looks like what you'd expect from 2020.  Dry.  Desolate.  Tinder-box ready.  Not a hackberry blossom in sight.  The creek is dry as a bone with only a small drip at the Hackberry springhead. 

Continuing on from Hackberry, we ascended Black Mesa and then linked up to Dutchman to come back to the Second Water parking area. 

Starting at Black Mesa is where things go from bad to 2020-bad.  Most of this area is completely toasted in lieu of Sawtooth and Superstition Fires.  You read the Forest Service fire reports and you hope it won't be that bad.  You hope it was low intensity and the mighty, water-filled saguaros survived even if the grasses and chaparral brush burned. 

Unfortunately this fragile Sonoran ecosystem is likely forever altered.  Black craters mark where trees and desert brush burned so hot the root balls exploded.  Mighty grandfather saguaros stand blown to pieces, scorched arms all around the burned-out skeletons.  Likely their insides boiled in the fire.  

One small valley remains in tact as you descend Black Mesa Trail and approach Dutchman Trail.  This valley is surprisingly lush and green despite the dry year.  It is an oasis in what is otherwise moonscape.

However, once back on Dutchman, the burn scar becomes evident again.  And it follows you all the way back to the parking lot, and all along First Water Road.

Honestly, I'm surprised the Tonto Forest Service has reopened this area so quickly. Other burn casualties of this summer (i.e. Four Peaks) remain closed to date.  This is precious Sonoran hiking grounds that are forever ruined.  Safe to say 2020 is the year I've fallen out of love with Arizona. 

Icehouse to Kellner - Pinal Mountains

Weather:  74º, sunny

About this Hike:  In May we visited the Pinal Mountains with the intention of hiking down Telephone Ridge and back up Icehouse Canyon.  The sparse US Forest Service map seemed to indicate this would be possible because while the two trails didn't have a direct junction, it appeared they ran parallel and together at one point.  Needless to say, I never found that point and ended up doing Telephone Ridge as an out-and-back. 

Today we planned to do Kellner Canyon down and Icehouse back up as a loop.  After the dusty drive up FR-651, the two parking spaces at the Kellner trailhead were full.  We drove another mile or so up the road and parked at the Icehouse trailhead and decided to do this loop in the opposite direction. 

A big purpose of this trip was to see fall color atop the Pinal Mountains.  With how hot and dry it's been this year, apparently the trees have taken notice.  Maples have a washed out pinkish hue, although a few were bright gold which was prettier.  The oaks are just turning brown—no vibrant red this year.  And the aspens are still green. Higher up the mountain near Upper Pinal CG the foliage may be a little better.

Regardless, hiking down Icehouse was very steep but very beautiful at the beginning.  As high-elevation forest gives way to lower elevations, the trees become more sparse.  Deciduous trees give way to ponderosa pine and eventually manzanita and high desert. 

Icehouse trail is in need of maintenance. Several large, felled trees across the trail made for interesting obstacles.  A water pipeline runs parallel to the trail and fills livestock tanks.  Evidence of cows grazing was everywhere.  And I mean everywhere.  It was awful trying to dodge cowpies the whole time.

As we were nearing the transition point from ponderosa to manzanita, we stumbled upon a clearing with a small cattle herd.  A bull was among the grazers.  I went off trail high on a ridge in an effort to circumvent the docile cattle.  I ended up off Icehouse, but on another trail that All Trails app did not have logged.  I was on the link trail between Icehouse and Telephone Ridge.  But this is not May, and we had a different route planned today.  My hiking partner braved going near the cattle and didn't go off trail.

We picked our way back to Icehouse and had to go near the cattle again.  We found the correct trail.  The trail turned to a rocky old Jeep road, and rounding a bend, we came across two bessies.  There was no way around them, and I didn't want to just pass fearing they'd kick.  As we walked closer, the cows kept walking down the road in front of us, looking back inquisitively every so often.  We drove cattle for 15-20 minutes and then the one cow let out an annoyed 'mooo' and they both trampled down the thorny brush and into a steep ravine.  

The cows now safely behind us, we soon intersected the junction for Kellner Canyon. This was a steep climb back up to the high forest.  While the cowpies weren't as prevalent as on Icehouse, and the trail was in better shape overall, there was still plenty of cow evidence.  Having to go thru two closed cattle gates was proof they graze on Kellner as well. 

There are a lot of awesome trails within the Pinal network.  I don't think I'll back on Icehouse anytime soon, although I do look forward to exploring more of this beautiful sky island.