Jack's Canyon, Hot Loop, & Horse Mesa

Weather:  69º, sunny

About this Hike:  I am intrigued by Munds Mountain near Sedona. However, hiking Munds appears to involve many miles of hiking to the trail via Jack's Canyon, or a drive over some challenging forest roads that likely aren't suitable for my truck. 

I opted to explore Jack's Canyon / Hot Loop to Horse Mesa instead, thinking this might be a similar alternative. 

The trail starts in typical Sedona red rock. It offers some interesting canyon views while the drainages along the trail still had some standing water. This year is an interesting conundrum in that Sedona is downright hot for January, yet there is still a lot of mud and standing water as we come off a very wet holiday season. Last year at this time Sedona was cooler, but drier too. 

Eventually red rocks give way to the black rocks that define the tops of many of the mesas around Sedona. The foliage changed to high desert. By the time we were on top of Horse Mesa there was a lot of juniper, yucca, and scrubby pinon pines. The soil on the mesa was dry, yet was muddy and stuck to our boots at the same time. 

We visited an overlook and got some views of the immediate area around Horse Mesa. Bell Rock, Cockscomb, and other Sedona landmarks were in full view. Otherwise, local neighborhoods were all that loomed below. 

This was just over the two-mile point. I originally intended to go about four miles, but the map indicated the trail would move to the center of the mesa and away from any viewpoints. It was boring desert scenery, so we opted to turn around and return the way we came. 

Someday with some further research I may check out Munds Mountain. I gather the scenery is better up there, and if there's one thing I've learned, you never run out of new things to explore in Sedona.  

Secret Canyon

Weather:  61º, sunny

About this Hike:  The mystique of Secret Canyon and Secret Mountain Wilderness continues to allure me. Coming off a rainy spell, I decided to hike to Secret Canyon today to see if the waterfall was flowing. I hiked in via Chuckwagon, having parked along the side of the paved Long Canyon Road. Even if FR-152 were open (barricades are up), I would never attempt this in my truck. The mud, the ruts—152 is hardly a road anymore. It's a shame too, because it limits how much of this area one can explore in a day, with at least five extra miles hiking by using Chuckwagon as an access point. 

The Secret Canyon waterfall had decent flow to it today. Being as I reached it by noon, I opted to press on. Every other time I've done this trail circumstances have never allowed me to go much beyond the waterfall. Today that changed. I pressed into Secret Canyon.

There were plenty of creek crossings, although always with solid rock bridges. The creek was flowing enough to be pretty, but not enough to impede crossings. The canyon was cold in spots, with some snow remaining while icicles hung off the red canyon walls. At one point the creek narrowed into a little slot canyon. 

The trail crossed the creek, climbed up above it, and then dropped down to cross again.  This cycle repeated often. Beyond the red canyon walls, this secret area is filled with ponderosa pine and some firs. It is beautiful. However, it does feel very remote, and I had a foreboding sense today. No worries though, the only wildlife I saw was a deer. My footing was always solid. And remote as it feels, Edge of the World sits just above Secret Canyon on the rim top. 

I opted to turn around about halfway into Secret Canyon per the All Trails GPS track. The trail was getting more overgrown and harder to follow. I figured it would just get more treacherous the deeper I went. While old-growth pine and red rocks are beautiful, the scenery was getting to be a little underwhelming. 

The hike out felt endless. I was tired and a little sore. If only the Secret Canyon parking area is where this hike ended with my truck waiting to carry me out on a graded gravel road! There was still close to three miles back along FR-152 and then Chuckwagon. 

With a properly equipped ATV I imagine one can explore a lot more of Secret Mountain Wilderness. Maps indicate miles of forest roads on the rim top near Edge of the World. There are some intriguing trails up there, although I get the impression most of those exist only on maps and in memories these days. I'll be honest—the mystique is wearing off. I'm beginning to think I've seen the best of what I can access in Secret Canyon. 

Hellsgate FR 1270

Weather:  55º, mostly cloudy

About this Hike:  A few weeks ago when we explored Hellsgate Trail 37 I noted a vast canyon. Across the canyon I saw a peninsula-type outcropping with a clear ATV road / trail on it. Studying the map, I thought this to be FR-1270. 

We drove in via FR-371, and parked near a shooting area and old corral. The 1270 road is very rough and narrow—at best it'll accommodate ATVs only. 

The hike starts off in interesting pinon pine and juniper forest. It drops down to Green Valley Creek which had a good flow to it. The canyon around Green Valley Creek contains sycamores in addition to thick pinon pine. The humidity was noticeably higher down in here, and there was a clean, earthy smell to the air. The rock formations are a pale pink color, reminiscent of the nearby Granite Dells / Stewart Pocket area.

A long, steep climb up eventually led away from Green Valley Creek. We slogged it out a few more miles, the views into Hellsgate Wilderness becoming increasingly better. As we neared the end of the hike just past an area called The Buttes (I didn't note any impressive buttes, but whatever), Payson came into view. 

I was not expecting Payson to be visible from here. Not only was the town visible, but I noted several landmarks including one in my own neighborhood. While I could see the neighborhood thru my binoculars, I was unable to find my house, likely because it's a one-story and hidden by trees. Also visible were the Granite Dells and Stewart Peak—both very visible from my front yard. With similar rock formations and vegetation, today was a reminder that boundaries are drawn by man. Granite Dells is part of the same ecosystem that largely forms Hellsgate Wilderness. 

The hike ended at Butte Tank. Supposedly there's an old cabin in the area called Neal Cabin, although I did not look for it. While I didn't get the rugged canyon views I anticipated today, I still enjoyed the views into Hellsgate and of Payson. It's funny to me how close I was to home as the crow flies, yet so far away in a remote wilderness area.

Hellsgate Trail 37

Weather:  55º, sun 

About this Hike:  Hellsgate Wilderness area has been our latest area of interest. Today we explored the 'main street' of this wilderness area, Hellsgate Trail 37. I was surprised at how much water was in the creeks and standing on the trails. We originally thought about returning to Bear Flat today, but I'm glad we didn't. There are several unbridged water crossings on the road in. 

We had no intentions of hiking down to the trail's end in Tonto Creek. While I'm certain this would be an amazing experience, it involves ~1,600 feet of elevation drop on what I've read is a steep, rough, scree-filled trail. We don't enjoy treacherous trails like this, as they have led to falls and injuries on several occasions. 

We opted to hike to the Hellsgate Wilderness boundary and just take in the views of the surrounding hills and canyons. The views certainly did not disappoint. 

For as remote as it feels, Hellsgate is still fairly developed. Rooftops of cabins and ranch buildings dot the distant hills. Most of the so-called hiking trails are ATV roads, and while their condition is atrocious in places, fresh tire tracks indicate ATV drivers frequent these paths. When the winds were just right, I could hear the faint sound of traffic on AZ-260. 

The only wildlife we saw today was cattle (along with trying to sidestep all their 'evidence'). In particular was a cow and her yearling calf. She seemed to realize humans were no threat, but her calf was scared and hid behind her. It was kind of cute. Regardless, we gave plenty of space.

We'll be back as there's still so much to explore in Hellsgate. 

Hellsgate - Big Ridge via Haigler Creek

Weather:  60º, sun 

About this Hike:  After an introductory hike to Hellsgate Wilderness a few weeks ago, I've mapped out a number of other hikes in the area. 

Checking out the Big Ridge Trail from near Haigler Creek seemed like a perfect post-Thanksgiving hike to burn off some turkey. 

I anticipated FR-200 to Haigler Creek would be a decent road considering there are neighborhoods and even a lodge down in the valley near the creek. I was mostly correct about this, albeit for one sketchy spot. The spot in question comes right after a signed pull-off for an overlook high above Haigler Creek. A stretch of the road is a one-lane shelf with no guardrails and sweeping views into the valley below. It was a bit nerve wracking, but the road quickly returns to a more safe feel. 

We parked and began our hike from a large pull-off where FR-200 meets an ATV trail. I believe this is  FR-1355. This ATV trail crosses Gordon Creek and becomes FR-178. The path was very muddy in spots, with puddles of standing water. It was also very steep and rutted in other spots. This didn't stop several ATVs that went buzzing by. A few miles in, we even found a parked 4Runner. It was an older model with plenty of forest pinstriping. Regardless, I was shocked that a street vehicle made it thru some of the narrow, steep, and rutted sections. 

Eventually we junctioned with Big Ridge FR-177. I was hoping to hike out to a feature called Horse Mountain, which would be about 13 miles round trip. With about two hours left of daylight, we determined it was best to turn back after a short jaunt up FR-177, having not reached Horse Mountain.

For being below 6,000 feet, this area has impressively thick forest. There's ponderosas and occasional firs, all happily co-existing with junipers, pinons, agaves, and other high-desert vegetation. Enjoying thick forest and occasional water features was the real reward of this hike. 

Hellsgate has obviously been ranchland for many decades. The trails are just ATV roads punctuated by cattle tanks and decayed ranching infrastructure (spring heads, troughs, fences, etc.). I had hoped for some viewpoints and vistas today. While there were a few breaks in the dense vegetation where I brought out my binoculars, there seldom were any good viewpoints in the wilderness area.

Regardless, I look forward to exploring more of Hellsgtate including a return to Bear Flat. In fact Horse Mountain may be reachable from there via a hike similar in length to today's hike. An earlier start would certainly help make this goal attainable. 

Stewart Ridge

Weather:  65º, sun and clouds

About this Hike:  Today didn't look like a hike was going to be possible between work commitments and an iffy forecast. By this afternoon I had completed my work obligations, and the sun was shining. 

Stewart Ridge is so close it's practically in my front yard...as in, I can see the ridge from my front yard. Today was the perfect opportunity to explore this trail so close to my home. 

I started my hike at the Mud Springs Trailhead. I've used this trailhead before to access the Oxbow portion of the PARCS trails. I must have blown right by the unmarked junction for Stewart Ridge in the past. 

The ridge trail offered fantastic 360º views of Payson, the Mazatzals, and the rim. Using binoculars, I was able to find my house, even if only the rooftop of it. There were a surprising number of late-season wildflowers blooming among the high desert landscape. The pink granite, pinon pines, and agaves were similar to what we hiked through last weekend in Hellsgate Wilderness, yet so much prettier at the same time. 

I hiked out to where the official trail ends at a rocky outcropping that I believe is called Gibson Peak. While the official, mapped trail had come to an end, cairns indicated I could go further. I pressed on, following the cairns along a path that was sometimes well-worn and other times overgrown. Past the rocky outcropping, the stands of pinon pine and juniper began to get thicker. I followed what seemed like a trail, although it quickly disappeared into the woodlands. The area was overgrown and increasingly more steep and rocky. I was on the edge of the ridge. With the number of elk bones I saw, I figure there's active mountain lions in this area. I opted to make this my turnaround point. 

I knew I just needed to parallel the rocky ridge to find my way back. However, I ended up on quite an annoying bushwhack, seeming to never find the path I used on my hike in. Eventually I rejoined the official trail and was glad to have done so. Apparently you can hike up to the top of Gibson Peak, although I imagine this would entail some tricky scrambling. I've read there's even some kind of stone structure on top. I might have to come back and explore some more...

As I hiked out along the ridge, the forecasted bad weather was beginning to build in. The skies were dark over the Mazatzals, and by the time I reached the trailhead, the first drops of rain had begun. 

Hellsgate Introduction - Bear Flat

Weather:  75º, sunny

About this Hike:  The Hellsgate Wilderness has been in my backyard for a couple years now since moving to Payson, yet I've never given this area much consideration. 

We decided to change that this weekend. After considerable research, we opted to take the Bear Flat Trail from its namesake neighborhood up to Mescal Ridge. If Mescal was nothing special, the plan was to continue down Bear Trail toward Horse Mountain and Big Ridge. 

We wasted probably about half an hour looking for the trail after crossing Tonto Creek at the trailhead. My GPS map indicated the trail paralleled the private land that makes up the Bear Flat neighborhood. 

We followed the fence to a gate with a sign that admonished 'Watch for Snakes.' This is where we took a wrong turn. While faint, the trail quickly becomes a steep old Jeep road. Instead we went wandering up the steep hillside clinging to trees and following game trails. Spying a saddle near the top, we aimed for that. Upon breaking through the trees, we were on the Jeep road. I asked how the hell did we miss this at the beginning? 

Regardless, now on the correct path, we quickly reached the Mescal Ridge junction. The signpost is there, but the sign is long gone. I was hoping for some good views into the Hellsgate Wilderness. There were some good viewpoints. Through my binoculars I spied a large green meadow with a faint two-track running through it. I'm thinking this is Big Ridge Trail? I could also see homes on a ridge, a reminder this area is more developed that one might think.

Otherwise, many of the would-be viewpoints were obscured by vegetation. And about that vegetation...Mescal Ridge feels very deserty. There's plenty of the namesake agave plants, hedgehog cacti, desert spoons, etc. to remind you that this hot, exposed ridge is in a desert climate. Yet there's also plenty of juniper and pinon pine to remind you this is high-desert forest. 

The ground along Mescal is rocky with deep rust-colored boulders that I assume to be granite. There were also occasional white quartz stones and even some reddish-purple rocks that reminded me of Mazatzal quartzite.  That same ground is also absolutely littered with cow pies.  There are three cattle tanks along Mescal, and this is definitely open-range country. We encountered just one small herd of bessies, but they ran away before we got close. 

I'll be honest that I didn't love Mescal, yet I'm still glad to have experienced it. Upon reaching the Bear Flat junction , and with only about an hour of daylight remaining, we did a short jaunt down Bear Flat. Immediately we were surrounded by thicker forest. The trail was easier on the feet with crushed gravel instead of the rockiness of Mescal. I found myself wishing we had done this segment today instead. 

Regardless, now my interest in Hellsgate is piqued. I plan to return via the FR-200 and experience Bear Flat from the south end to see Horse Mountain and Big Ridge.