Battleground Ridge & Battling a Thunderstorm

Weather:  83°; clouds and sun

About this Hike:  Visiting Battleground Ridge on the Mogollon Rim has been on my bucket list a while. This monument can be driven to via Rim Road (FR-300) and FR-123. However, hiking to it from the Rock Crossing area of the Arizona Trail is also a very doable 11.5 - 12 mile day hike. 

I parked at the Arizona Trail parking area on the side of FR-751. This road leads to Rock Crossing Campground and eventually down to Blue Ridge Reservoir. 

This segment of Arizona Trail begins in forest that is rocky grassland. One area of minor fire damage led to stepping over some downed trees, but it was nothing too challenging. Eventually this hike begins steeply descending into Clear Creek Canyon.  

The trail reaches the fine, rocky bed of Clear Creek, which it traverses at well-marked crossings. Clear Creek is completely dry in this area right now, and you're a little way upriver from where the waters of Blue Ridge Reservoir officially start.

The climb out of Clear Creek is equally steep. In fact, the vast majority of elevation change during this hike occurs climbing up and down the sides of Clear Creek Canyon. Despite the tough elevation change, it's worth taking your time to look around. On the north side of Clear Creek are some cool rock formations and volcanic remnants. On the south side you'll enjoy some of the most varied conifer forest this hike offers. 

Once up and over the creek, the trail becomes an old road. It's also fairly level. I studied the possibility of a shortcut around an area called Battleground Tank. All Trails map even indicates a trail in this area. In reality, there's no trail. In fact, looking at the topographic map indicated I'd have to traverse at least one, if not two, ravines. These were likely steep and in thick forest. I opted to stick to the sure thing and follow the trail.

The old road doubling as Arizona Trail intersects FR-123, which has utility lines running parallel to it. Those lines eventually run up to a Blue Ridge Reservoir pumping station. At FR-123-E there's a signed junction. The pumping station is to the right and Battleground Ridge is to the left, each about two miles from the where the road forks. 

I followed the road up to Battleground Ridge. I was surprised to see some people had setup camp up there. I paused at the monument and read the placards on both sides. I also hiked around the area a little bit, as I know from the map that you're on a ridge that overlooks the lake. For the most part all I found were near-vertical drop offs that would eventually lead down to the lake. The forest and foliage were far too thick to see through. However, I did find one vantage point where I could see the lake. I even saw a kayak go paddling by on the water far below. 

My return was the via the way I came in. It was now almost noon and thunderstorms were beginning to build in. My return hike involved a lot of hustling and pushing myself to go faster, constantly outrunning the dark, thundering clouds that seemed to be chasing me. I guess my strategy worked...I was back to the truck just as the rain started coming down. 

I drove down the rim and into Strawberry for a much-deserved after-hike treat at Pie Bar. 

West Baldy #94

Weather:  81°; clouds and sun

About this Hike:  Rested up after a night at Winn Campground, I headed to West Baldy #94 to get an early start. This time of year the days start beautiful in the White Mountains—clear blue skies with not a cloud in sight. By lunchtime this often changes as the thunderstorms build in. 

I came to this hike expecting it to be another gorgeous White Mountains landscape—old growth forests, lush meadows, and the winding west fork of the Little Colorado River. My map indicated it was about seven miles to the pseudo-summit where West Baldy #94 joins East Baldy #95. 

I didn't expect to reach that summit. I planned to go as far as I could and just enjoy the magnificent scenery while keeping a close watch on the skies. As the first thunderheads began building, I planned to head for lower elevation. 

What I didn't realize is that most of the elevation gain on this well-traveled trail comes later in the hike. Meanwhile, I was enjoying the scenery. Wildflowers filled the meadows around the Little Colorado. I'd hike through an open, grassy meadow only to again be under the canopy of granddaddy lodgepole pines, firs, spruces, ponderosas, and aspens. I lost track of time. The trail was ascending very gradually, but thus far there was no steep ascent. I looked at my map and realized I was about three-quarters of the way to the summit. A few grey clouds had popped up and were offering some welcome respite from the sun's rays. The clouds weren't thundering, but I knew the weather was changing. Regardless, I was now determined to reach that summit. 

At this point the trail exits the thick forest and comes into a damaged area. On both West Baldy, and looking to the other ridge on the east, downed trees litter the landscape like toothpicks. I thought this was Wallow Fire damage from 2011, but I may be incorrect. I've heard everything from pine beetle kill, to a fire in the early 2000s is responsible for this damage. 

Despite the damage, the forest is regenerating. Parts of the landscape are covered in blue spruces that look to be about 10-15 years old based on their height. It's like a Christmas tree forest. And it's right about here where the steepest elevation gain begins. A few tight switchbacks push your ascent above 11K feet. 

I met a friendly lady on horseback who advised me to watch for a meadow full of purple wildflowers in one of the areas where the pines had died. It was magnificent. She also told me to look out for the famed plane crash site. I was able to find the fuselage on the mountainside using my binoculars. 

Finally, I pushed ahead to the pseudo-summit. I call it this because the true summit is on tribal land and requires permission to hike to. I did find the trail that would have led to the true summit. I expected a warning sign and perhaps a gate. Logs and stones laid across the trail are the only indicator this area is off limits. It wouldn't stop anyone who wanted to just step over it. I opted to respect tribal land, and plus, the summit adds about another mile each way and I was tired. Plus I now had to hike back down seven miles.

I briefly considered going down East Baldy. After all, the sign at the junction indicated it was a couple miles shorter. But linking back to the West Baldy lot where I was parked would add more mileage. I opted to return the way I came. 

Shortly after beginning my descent, the cloudy skies began to rumble. And rumble some more. The first thunderstorm popped up and dropped some rain. The rain-cooled air actually felt pretty good. I met other hikers still on their ascent. I was surprised how most of them seemed unfazed by the afternoon weather. Meanwhile, I was hustling to get to lower elevation. 

That first storm blew through and clear skies returned. I continued on my descent, but as I came within a couple miles of the trailhead, mother nature unleashed again. Loud thunder and hail came with this one. Thankfully the hail was just an annoyance and not dangerous. I still got a good soaking. Other hikers were laughing and joking about it. I wish I could be so nonchalant, but I hate getting caught in thunderstorms. 

When I originally researched this hike, West Baldy looked more scenic to me. But now that I've seen it in person, you can bet I'll be back to do East Baldy. With a little more research and planning, I might have done both as a loop, but at the same time I look forward to returning to this beautiful area. 

Thompson Trail #629 - High Road vs. Low Road

Weather:  79°; clouds and sun

About this Hike:  Getting there may be half the fun, but not when it comes to the White Mountains. The drive takes forever, which is why I'd only been to this part of the state once in the past. 

But now that Payson is home, that drive is 'only' about three hours, and I'm planning on exploring the White Mountains more in depth. With Payson weather as of late being reminiscent of the Phoenix Valley weather I left behind (triple digits and no rain), I decided to head for the 'coolest' spot in the state right now. 

I set up camp Friday afternoon at Winn Campground under threatening skies. Rain showers started just east of Pinetop and followed me the entire way to the campground. With my site picked out and camp set up, I headed out for my first hike.

Being as it was late afternoon, I planned an easy hike for this evening. I've long seen photos from the White Mountains of lush, wildflower-studded meadows with a stream flowing through the middle. I wanted this type of scenery to be my White Mountains experience. The hike on Thompson Trail did not disappoint.  

The hike begins at a well-signed trailhead off a maintained gravel road. I hiked along a decommissioned forest road and admired views of the west fork of the Black River down below. I saw what looked like a path on the river's edge and even some other hikers down there. The embankment was pretty steep, and I wondered how they got down there... 

Eventually I reached the end of the old road at a marked junction. The sign read 'Thompson Trail 0.3 mile.' I thought I had been on the Thompson Trail the whole time. Looking at my map, I saw a series of extremely tight switchbacks in the direction where the sign pointed to Thompson Trail. Those switchbacks would take me down to the river. But would there be a trail down there, or would it be marshy grass? I decided to explore, but only a little further. The trail was rocky and getting hard to follow. I opted to play it safe and return the way I came, at least until I reached a small saddle where the embankment wasn't so steep. 

Climbing down the embankment and through the marshy grass, I was able to get down to the river's edge where a well-blazed trail awaited me. I followed this all the way back to a gate on the old road, which then led back to the trailhead. In other words, I could have hiked at the river's edge the entire time. The trick is to follow the path to the left of the gate as you come in via the old road. Regardless, this was a beautiful, easy ~5 mile hike, and a good intro to the White Mountains.

I returned to camp to get ready for the next day's big hike at Mount Baldy. 

Military Sinkhole Via 260 Trailhead

Weather:  90°; sun; windy

About this Hike:  Driving eastbound from Payson on AZ-260, I've long been intrigued by a sign indicating a left turn that's aptly named '260 Trailhead.'   

This is an uncomfortable left turn.  The highway is four lanes total (two in each direction) with a solid center line.  There's no center lane for making a left turn.  Oh, and the speed limit is 55 mph, with most people doing far in excess of that.  

Military Sinkhole trail ascends the Mogollon Rim from 260 Trailhead.  If the left turn were not safe, my Plan B was to drive a few more miles and park at Military Sinkhole Vista on top of the rim and then hike this trail in the opposite direction.  Thankfully, with no traffic behind me, and a gap in oncoming traffic, I was able to make the legal, but treacherous, left turn into 260 Trailhead parking lot. 

I was surprised to find a large gravel lot with bulletin boards, a latrine, and well-signed trails branching in multiple directions.  

From the parking lot I began my ascent on Military Sinkhole Trail.  The forest service website labels this as Trail #966, but the signage at the trail has it as Trail #179.  Regardless, the ascent up the rim takes place over about two miles and just over 1,000 feet of elevation gain.  It starts out in a vein of "Sedona-esque' red rock, but quickly becomes shadier.  In fact, this section of the hike has the best forest.  A thick blend of firs, spruces, and ponderosas are complemented by plenty of maple and oak.  I might need to come back here in the fall.  

The trail crests on the rim at Military Sinkhole lookout site, which is part of the Rim Lakes Vista Trail.  Forest Road 300 (Rim Road) is still paved at this point, and the vista lookout sites have paved parking lots.  This means expect lots of tourist traffic.  

Despite the higher elevation, the forest on this part of the rim changes.  Mighty ponderosas dominate with no firs or spruces in sight.  The pines are spread apart, and the forest floor feels almost like high desert grassland.  Open grassy meadows are abundant while old logging roads criss-cross the landscape. 

I opted to cross FR-300 and continue along the trail.  I found what I'm certain is the Military Sinkhole.  It's just a shallow depression in the ground.  Maybe it fills with water during the wetter seasons.  Being as it was still early in the day, I continued my hike following the trail and Old Rim Road to the 235 Road Trail.  I hiked to a feature on the map called 'Lake Three.'  Lake Three was void of any water, but it was beautiful, grassy elk meadow.  This was my turn around point.  

Despite the forecasted highs on the rim top being in the low 80s, it was hot.  The wind picked up in the afternoon, which was a welcome relief. Despite the shade of the thicker trees, the hike down only got hotter as I descended in elevation.  

I've long been curious about 260 Trailhead, and I'm glad to have explored this area.  And of course, I found a few other trails that I'll need to come back and explore again in the near future.