Widforss Post-Sublime

Weather:  80º, sun 

About this Hike:  On my previous two North Rim trips I attempted Widforss Trail. From being short on time to a small brush fire, something always upended the hike. Until today, completing this just-over nine mile hike has evaded me. 

After the rattling drive from Point Sublime, I figured a hike was a good way to decompress. It's also convenient that the awful road known as Point Sublime Trail ends at the Widforss Trailhead. 

Widforss is one of the North Rim's more popular and developed trails. It takes you through thick forest while opening up occasionally for viewpoints into the Grand Canyon. 

The trail's end is at Widforss Point, denoted by a sign. This is another spectacular canyon overlook with views in all directions. While the Colorado River is not visible at Widforss (at least I couldn't find it), I thought this viewpoint to be an acceptable consolation prize if one were to not willing to attempt getting to Point Sublime. While observing through my binoculars, I saw some buildings on the opposite rim. I'm guessing this is the South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park. 

The Point Sublime drive and then the Widforss hike was a lot to cram into one day. But the North Rim is a long drive from my home in central Arizona, and so I wanted to make the most of my short time there. I am glad to finally check Widforss off my hiking bucket list. 

Point Sublime

Weather:  75º, sun 

About this Drive:  Normally this blog is about hikes. However, the scenic drive out to Point Sublime at the Grand Canyon North Rim has been on my bucket list.

I've done a lot of research on this drive. In the Grand Canyon National Park, a sign at the beginning of Point Sublime road offers a dire warning with words such as: unmaintained, hazardous, self-rescue, and blown down trees. 

I also learned there is another route to Point Sublime using forest roads on the Kaibab National Forest. This alternate route is a little longer, but said to be more scenic and better maintained. There's also supposed to be an historic fire lookout tower and cabin along the way. 

I opted to camp at DeMotte Campground which is right next door to where my journey would begin on FR-22. I had built a detailed map because this drive involves a lot of turns. Most roads on Kaibab Forest are pretty well signed. 

Starting early in the morning, the initial road was graded gravel and easy driving. I found a small electrical box (there's some utility infrastructure out there) and stopped to air down on the driveway to it. I knew the road was likely to deteriorate the further in I got. 

The road did narrow and got a little rougher, but nothing too unmanageable. Sawed-up trees on the roadside reminded me of the warning about trees falling. I did have a chainsaw and a handsaw in my off-road recovery kit, but I hoped not to need to use either of them. In fact I never did, testament to the wisdom of doing this drive pre-monsoon.

I never found the fire lookout or cabin. I assumed there would be a sign or some kind of marker.  Their mapped locations aren't the easiest to figure out either. 

Eventually I reached the gate marking the national park boundary. Beyond that was a junction. Here I made a mistake and went the wrong way. I probably was four miles down Swamp Ridge Road before I realized my error. I was not happy.

Agitated by the lost time, I turned around. Now going the correct way, I was on course to join Point Sublime Trail. At this point the road began to deteriorate significantly. The road became more rutted. While I had to back up and reevaluate my line once, I managed to navigate the ruts. 

The road was a little nerve wracking, but really not too bad. I arrived at the Point Sublime Campground. There were two unoccupied campsites each with a picnic table. Surprisingly there was also a restroom complete with solar-powered composting toilet. Inside, the restroom was clean and fully stocked. I was glad because the drive had wracked my nerves enough...well never mind. I was both grateful for and surprised by the fact there's a restroom in such a remote location. It makes me wonder, how was equipment brought out there to dig the pit and construct that restroom, and who maintains it?

Having parked at the campground, I hoofed it to the actual Point Sublime overlook. With nearly 360-degree canyon views, it is quite breathtaking. The Colorado River is even visible far below. 

After lunch and plenty of photos, I departed Point Sublime. Ominous as the park road sounded, I've read reviews of people doing the drive in an old VW camper van and a Ford Escape. How bad could it be? Surely my 4x4 Tacoma could handle this...

My 4x4 Tacoma performed just like it was engineered to. That said, it handled the road well. Its driver (yours truly) on the other hand did not handle it so well. The road has a lot of scary ruts and rocky sections. The hills are always the worst with ruts and other obstacles. In the final few miles the road opens up into scenic meadows, yet even these have ruts and sandy sections. 

The ruts really got to me because of the angles the truck would get on. It feels like I'm about to tip. I also know Tacomas can get on some gnarly angles, as Toyota loves to demonstrate at their overland events. I was probably over-reacting a bit. I don't off-road for the fun of it like many people do. I off-road for the beautiful destinations one can reach only by driving off the paved path.

Regardless, I survived Point Sublime Trail. The last couple miles aren't so bad as this segment seems to get a little maintenance. 

After driving both approaches to Point Sublime I can hands-down vouch for the Kaibab Forest route being the better choice. Regardless, drivers will have to navigate at least a few miles of the awful, rutted Point Sublime Trail. 

Another reason I picked this route? It ends at the Widforss Trailhead in the national park...

West Clear Creek

Weather:  81º, sun 

About this Hike:  The hike down to West Clear Creek sounded intriguing and the photos of this canyon looked absolutely stunning. 

I researched several trail options including Tramway, but ultimately settled on The Point trail from the West Clear Creek trailhead. This one looked to have the easiest access. 

The forest roads in were bumpy but not too bad. The parking area was pretty full when I arrived in late morning. 

The hike down was easy to follow but very steep. There was definitely some scrambling involved. 

Descending into the canyon, I took my time to appreciate up close the striated rock formations that West Clear Creek is known for. 

Coming off a very dry winter, I wasn't sure what to expect in terms of water level. I wondered if it would be possible to hike along a dry portion of the creek bed. I was wrong on this. There was plenty of water flow in the creek. Plan B was in my hiking pack and included river sandals. I zipped off the pant legs on my convertible hiking pants and put on my sandals. 

I hiked through the creek, never going out further than above my knees in water. I reached a beautiful grotto-like area with towering cliffs, blue-green water, and hanging gardens. At this point I opted to turn around and hike upriver. This proved to be less enchanting. There were beautiful views of striated cliffs and old growth forest. However, there were more big boulders to navigate around. And while I was being extremely careful, the rocks in the creek were often very slippery. I had a few close calls and then finally a few (minor) injuries. I had enough.

Upon reaching the West Clear Creek trail, I sat on a rock to bandage my wounds, dry off, and change my footwear. The steep hike up was the only strenuous part of today's adventure.

West Clear Creek is really pretty, and I know many hikers love hiking, wading, and floating their way through the canyon. But the thing with Arizona waterways is they seldom are easily passable. They quickly go from an easy creekside hike to overgrown with prickly plants, littered with huge boulders, and covered in slick rocks. A treacherous hike like this often makes me reconsider... I don't know if I'll be back anytime soon to do any other West Clear Creek trails.