Hellsgate - Big Ridge via Haigler Creek

Weather:  60º, sun 

About this Hike:  After an introductory hike to Hellsgate Wilderness a few weeks ago, I've mapped out a number of other hikes in the area. 

Checking out the Big Ridge Trail from near Haigler Creek seemed like a perfect post-Thanksgiving hike to burn off some turkey. 

I anticipated FR-200 to Haigler Creek would be a decent road considering there are neighborhoods and even a lodge down in the valley near the creek. I was mostly correct about this, albeit for one sketchy spot. The spot in question comes right after a signed pull-off for an overlook high above Haigler Creek. A stretch of the road is a one-lane shelf with no guardrails and sweeping views into the valley below. It was a bit nerve wracking, but the road quickly returns to a more safe feel. 

We parked and began our hike from a large pull-off where FR-200 meets an ATV trail. I believe this is  FR-1355. This ATV trail crosses Gordon Creek and becomes FR-178. The path was very muddy in spots, with puddles of standing water. It was also very steep and rutted in other spots. This didn't stop several ATVs that went buzzing by. A few miles in, we even found a parked 4Runner. It was an older model with plenty of forest pinstriping. Regardless, I was shocked that a street vehicle made it thru some of the narrow, steep, and rutted sections. 

Eventually we junctioned with Big Ridge FR-177. I was hoping to hike out to a feature called Horse Mountain, which would be about 13 miles round trip. With about two hours left of daylight, we determined it was best to turn back after a short jaunt up FR-177, having not reached Horse Mountain.

For being below 6,000 feet, this area has impressively thick forest. There's ponderosas and occasional firs, all happily co-existing with junipers, pinons, agaves, and other high-desert vegetation. Enjoying thick forest and occasional water features was the real reward of this hike. 

Hellsgate has obviously been ranchland for many decades. The trails are just ATV roads punctuated by cattle tanks and decayed ranching infrastructure (spring heads, troughs, fences, etc.). I had hoped for some viewpoints and vistas today. While there were a few breaks in the dense vegetation where I brought out my binoculars, there seldom were any good viewpoints in the wilderness area.

Regardless, I look forward to exploring more of Hellsgtate including a return to Bear Flat. In fact Horse Mountain may be reachable from there via a hike similar in length to today's hike. An earlier start would certainly help make this goal attainable. 

Stewart Ridge

Weather:  65º, sun and clouds

About this Hike:  Today didn't look like a hike was going to be possible between work commitments and an iffy forecast. By this afternoon I had completed my work obligations, and the sun was shining. 

Stewart Ridge is so close it's practically in my front yard...as in, I can see the ridge from my front yard. Today was the perfect opportunity to explore this trail so close to my home. 

I started my hike at the Mud Springs Trailhead. I've used this trailhead before to access the Oxbow portion of the PARCS trails. I must have blown right by the unmarked junction for Stewart Ridge in the past. 

The ridge trail offered fantastic 360º views of Payson, the Mazatzals, and the rim. Using binoculars, I was able to find my house, even if only the rooftop of it. There were a surprising number of late-season wildflowers blooming among the high desert landscape. The pink granite, pinon pines, and agaves were similar to what we hiked through last weekend in Hellsgate Wilderness, yet so much prettier at the same time. 

I hiked out to where the official trail ends at a rocky outcropping that I believe is called Gibson Peak. While the official, mapped trail had come to an end, cairns indicated I could go further. I pressed on, following the cairns along a path that was sometimes well-worn and other times overgrown. Past the rocky outcropping, the stands of pinon pine and juniper began to get thicker. I followed what seemed like a trail, although it quickly disappeared into the woodlands. The area was overgrown and increasingly more steep and rocky. I was on the edge of the ridge. With the number of elk bones I saw, I figure there's active mountain lions in this area. I opted to make this my turnaround point. 

I knew I just needed to parallel the rocky ridge to find my way back. However, I ended up on quite an annoying bushwhack, seeming to never find the path I used on my hike in. Eventually I rejoined the official trail and was glad to have done so. Apparently you can hike up to the top of Gibson Peak, although I imagine this would entail some tricky scrambling. I've read there's even some kind of stone structure on top. I might have to come back and explore some more...

As I hiked out along the ridge, the forecasted bad weather was beginning to build in. The skies were dark over the Mazatzals, and by the time I reached the trailhead, the first drops of rain had begun. 

Hellsgate Introduction - Bear Flat

Weather:  75º, sunny

About this Hike:  The Hellsgate Wilderness has been in my backyard for a couple years now since moving to Payson, yet I've never given this area much consideration. 

We decided to change that this weekend. After considerable research, we opted to take the Bear Flat Trail from its namesake neighborhood up to Mescal Ridge. If Mescal was nothing special, the plan was to continue down Bear Trail toward Horse Mountain and Big Ridge. 

We wasted probably about half an hour looking for the trail after crossing Tonto Creek at the trailhead. My GPS map indicated the trail paralleled the private land that makes up the Bear Flat neighborhood. 

We followed the fence to a gate with a sign that admonished 'Watch for Snakes.' This is where we took a wrong turn. While faint, the trail quickly becomes a steep old Jeep road. Instead we went wandering up the steep hillside clinging to trees and following game trails. Spying a saddle near the top, we aimed for that. Upon breaking through the trees, we were on the Jeep road. I asked how the hell did we miss this at the beginning? 

Regardless, now on the correct path, we quickly reached the Mescal Ridge junction. The signpost is there, but the sign is long gone. I was hoping for some good views into the Hellsgate Wilderness. There were some good viewpoints. Through my binoculars I spied a large green meadow with a faint two-track running through it. I'm thinking this is Big Ridge Trail? I could also see homes on a ridge, a reminder this area is more developed that one might think.

Otherwise, many of the would-be viewpoints were obscured by vegetation. And about that vegetation...Mescal Ridge feels very deserty. There's plenty of the namesake agave plants, hedgehog cacti, desert spoons, etc. to remind you that this hot, exposed ridge is in a desert climate. Yet there's also plenty of juniper and pinon pine to remind you this is high-desert forest. 

The ground along Mescal is rocky with deep rust-colored boulders that I assume to be granite. There were also occasional white quartz stones and even some reddish-purple rocks that reminded me of Mazatzal quartzite.  That same ground is also absolutely littered with cow pies.  There are three cattle tanks along Mescal, and this is definitely open-range country. We encountered just one small herd of bessies, but they ran away before we got close. 

I'll be honest that I didn't love Mescal, yet I'm still glad to have experienced it. Upon reaching the Bear Flat junction , and with only about an hour of daylight remaining, we did a short jaunt down Bear Flat. Immediately we were surrounded by thicker forest. The trail was easier on the feet with crushed gravel instead of the rockiness of Mescal. I found myself wishing we had done this segment today instead. 

Regardless, now my interest in Hellsgate is piqued. I plan to return via the FR-200 and experience Bear Flat from the south end to see Horse Mountain and Big Ridge. 

U-Bar to Dane Spring / Canyon

Weather:  65º, sunny

About this Hike:  Nearly two months ago we hiked Barbershop Trail.  At that time I mentioned the original plan was to hike up to the Dane Spring Cabin--a plan that was quickly scrapped when we began to take in the beauty of Barbershop Trail. 

Hoping to catch some fall color, we decided to return to the rim today to explore U-Bar trail up to Dane Spring. In September we parked at Buck Springs. That weekend the Mogollon Monster 100 race was going on, and the trailhead at FR-321 was a bustling aid station complete with RVs, spectators, and copious amounts of propane to power all the festivities. The 321 road was a different story today. Quiet and peaceful, with just one other car at the trailhead. 

The brief introductory segment of this hike was on Barbershop Trail. It became quickly apparent that fall color was far past peak. The aspens were bare, although a few bigtooth maples clung to their last colorful leaves. 

We turned north at the U-Bar junction and hiked up to the Dane Spring Cabin. It looks like it has gotten some maintenance and reinforcement since I last saw it in June of 2022.

I debated turning around and going back to Barbershop. The massive old growth blue spruces and other conifers in this canyon never cease to amaze me. Instead we pressed on. The trail begins to hug the rim of Dane Canyon. We met a trail runner who advised us we would drop into Dane Canyon just up ahead, and a drop into Barbershop Canyon was still further ahead. 

We opted to check out Dane and Barbershop Canyons. Both looked dark and a bit foreboding from their respective rims, but an easy hike down well-maintained trail took us into forested meadow. Both canyons' creeks had some water. 

The foliage was not as majestic as what is found along the Barbershop Trail. Occasional stands of fir and spruce often gave way to ponderosa, grassland, and pale iron-colored rock and soil. 

Despite the name, Barbershop Canyon past Dane Canyon is not part of the Barbershop Trail. Otherwise, this would have an interesting loop opportunity. We turned around after exploring the bottom of Barbershop and made our way to FR-321. We arrived back to the truck right at sunset as the November air was beginning to get chilly. There was a moonrise and then some opportunities for star gazing. 

It was a beautiful day on the Mogollon Rim.