Babe Haught to Knoll Lake

Weather:  77º, sun and clouds

About this Hike:  One year ago today I first explored Babe Haught Trail to Knoll Lake. Looking for something to do today, and remembering this to be an enjoyable hike, I opted to try it again. 

The parking lot was the fullest I've ever seen it at the Hatchery Trailhead. This may be spurred by the closure of Horton Creek parking lot for on-going construction. 

While I saw a few other hikers today, I wouldn't call the trail crowded by any means. But then, with multiple spurs of Highline Trail branching from the same parking area, surely not all hikers were on Babe Haught. 

For some reason I enjoyed this hike a lot more last year. It wasn't bad by any means this year, yet it just felt different. Maybe it was the fact that it was still uncomfortably hot today. Maybe all the orange ponderosa pines were getting to me too...

I can't tell if the ponderosas are dying or experiencing intense seasonal needle drop. Most of them still have plenty of green, punctuated by some clumps of orange. Photos taken and analyzed by AI tell me its just seasonal needle drop. But then with the beetle outbreak in recent years, I never know what to believe. 

Knoll Lake is still low when you compare the bathtub ring to its current state of fill. However, with a good monsoon this summer, it is higher than a year ago. In fact, there wasn't much lake bottom to walk along. Even if it was just a few inches of murky water, the lake level is definitely higher. Hopefully El Nino brings us some solid snowpack this winter and fills up the rim lakes. 

Sand Rock Canyon / Fossil Creek Canyon Rim

Weather:  81º, sunny, muggy, hot

About this Hike:  I discovered this hike on All Trails. It looked to follow old dirt two-track roads through the savanna and to an overlook above the Fossil Creek Wilderness area. The hike begins at FR-9D which parallels a high tension powerline. There is a distinct change here—the ponderosa pines of the Mogollon Rim end and the grasslands begin. High desert savanna spotted with junipers and occasional pinion pines  was the scenery for the entire hike, save for a small creek that had ponderosas growing along it. At least the grasses were relatively green. Muddy spots along the trail and even some standing puddles attest to the amount of rain this area has gotten in 2026's active monsoon.

The trail eventually diverges away from FR-9D and onto FR-9K at a large cattle tank. The tank was full and the water looked clean (by cattle tank standards). I was glad to move away from the overhead powerlines. I experienced a strange phenomenon while underneath them. My hand slipped off the rubber grip of my aluminum hiking pole. Upon contacting the metal, I experienced a small electric shock in my right hand. While not serious, it was more than a little static zap, enough so that I instinctively threw my hiking pole. There was no obvious injury to my hand, and so I theorized the powerlines had something to do with it. Some internet research when I got home confirmed my theory. 

This hike was difficult to follow. I wasted considerable time backtracking and trying to find the All Trails  GPS track. In the tall grass it was to no avail. The best way to do this is simply to follow the defined two-track. Eventually the two track rejoined the All Trails GPS track. The road forked again, and I went left, once again diverging the GPS track. This proved to be a good choice. This route led to a faint, but navigable, footpath and right to the edge of the canyon. 

I took some time to appreciate the views into Fossil Creek Wilderness. As this canyon runs toward the Verde Valley, Sedona-esque red sandstone is prominent in the canyon walls. I was saddened to see a lot of orange pine trees on the upper ridges of the canyon. This is testament to a pine beetle outbreak that I hope is nearing its end. The inner canyon looked lush and beautiful, although the creek was not visible. 

I hiked back to the fork and tried to follow the All Trails GPS track. It appeared to go on close to another mile, ending on a narrow peninsula. This proved to be to no avail. The two-track ran out. While a narrow peninsula on the map, when you're standing on it, it is a sea of grass and junipers. It would've been easy to get lost, and I was not plowing through all that grass. I found one viewpoint to the side, and it didn't seem to offer anything that the first good viewpoint offered. I could see the end of the peninsula from here, but I wasn't willing to go on any further. 

I hiked out the way I came in. Without backtracking and getting confused, it only took a little over an hour to get back my parking spot on FR-677 just off of AZ-260. 

This was a hot, unpleasant hike. The viewpoint was enjoyable, but honestly, I'd rather be hiking down in Fossil Creek Canyon (an area I've yet to explore). 

Rim Run and Box Canyon

Weather:  78º, cloudy, muggy

About this Hike:  My original plan was to explore the network of trails that originate at the Canyon Point Campground near Forest Lakes. However, I was stopped at the guard shack. There is a $10 day-use fee. I opted to continue down 260 turning at Merzville Rd. 

From Merzville Road I could access something called Rim Run Trail, which looked to be a viable alternate. In fact this ended up being a great choice.

I drove in to where Merzville junctions with Hillcrest Road and parked . The road was getting a little sketchy and there were plenty of good clearings to park in. I imagine this would make for some good dispersed camping, especially if one is looking to avoid the fees at Canyon Point. 

My hike entailed following Merzville Road to where it ends at a vast overlook on the edge of the Mogollon Rim. Parking where I did was a good call. The road only degraded more, and there was a lot of standing water and smelly mud. I often paralleled the road, hiking on the thick bed of pine needles that make up the forest floor. The forest back here is thick, healthy ponderosa. It was very peaceful and enjoyable to hike through.

Near the end, the road becomes more like rock steps. Ending at the rim's edge, I could see the nearby peninsula viewpoint that is accessed from the campground. This was further confirmation that I missed out on nothing (and saved $10) by doing the hike via Merzville Road. I could also see a fish hatchery and some buildings in the lush, green valley below. 

There is an American flag planted at the edge of the rim viewpoint. Judging from its lack of tatters and relatively vibrant color, I would say this is a new addition. 

On the hike out I followed a side trail down a decommissioned road to what looked like another viewpoint. It did lead to a viewpoint, but it was rocky, brushy, and the views weren't great. 

Being that it was early afternoon, I debated whether I wanted to link up with the network of trails that branch from the campground, or go do something else. The campground trails have silly names like 'Dare Me' and 'Wedding Day.' This makes me think they're geared more toward mountain bikers. The whole network is close to 260, meaning constant road noise. 

I figured if I wanted the above unpleasantries, I might go try something else. I started heading back toward Payson, stopping at the Box Canyon Trail just off 260. While the map indicated walking directly parallel to the busy highway, I opted to follow a utility line that also paralleled the road. This kept me a little further out of traffic and ultimately led to a side trail. This side trail had cairns and looked to descend into the box canyon. Unfortunately, it was extremely steep and eventually had a sheer drop off. I took a photo of two pretty waterfalls deep in the canyon and then turned back. 

Finding the correct trail, I paralleled 260 and then joined the official Box Canyon Trail. It was much easier to descend, and soon I was at the waters of Christopher Creek, surrounded by magnificent purple-red cliffs. 

I hiked up to a viewpoint and got some photos of a waterfall spilling into a pool below. I also had noticed a grassy meadow when I first reached the water's edge. I went through an open horse gate and followed a path through the meadow. The creek changed dramatically, becoming a marshy remnant. The canyon walls vanished and deciduous trees surrounded me. I arrived at an equestrian enclosure with a large building. Turns out I had trespassed onto a private retreat / camp. Upon arriving back at the water, I saw the bleached, bullet-hole filled 'No Trespassing' sign. 

While not overly spectacular hikes, I was glad to get out and enjoy some simple pleasures here in Rim Country this Labor Day. 

Continuing Passage 30 - Up on Anderson Mesa

Weather:  78º, clouds and sun

About this Hike:  Last Saturday's hike on the Mormon Lake side of Arizona Trail (AZT) Passage 30 was so enjoyable that we opted to continue it. Picking up at Horse Lake Trailhead, we were now on the other side of Lake Mary Road. Judging from the map, I expected some views of Lake Mary and hoped for dense ponderosa pine forest.

There ended up being a stark difference between this section of Passage 30 compared to what we hiked on last weekend. The dense ponderosa forest was gone. Atop Anderson Mesa is a lot of savannah grassland. Ponderosa pines are mixed in, but they are far less dense and are accompanied by more juniper and occasional pinon pine. Despite recent rains, many of the meadows looked absolutely parched and featured dried out grasses. Namesake Horse Lake was just a dry meadow. 

The AZT in this section follows old ATV roads. They are rutted and tore up in places, and of course you always have to be listening to the drone of an approaching ATV or side-by-side. Its not a great hiking surface and my feet and back get tired and sore when hiking along old roadways. There are also a lot of unauthorized roads, making careful route following important. The AZT has surprisingly few markers at some of these confusing junctions. 

While the trail lended to a few good views of Humphrey's and Mormon Mountain, the views were never spectacular. Maybe there would have been a viewpoint of Lake Mary if we continued another half mile or so. We opted to turn around about a half mile before the connector trail into Lakeview Campground.

It is always nice to be in the outdoors. However, today's hike was quite lackluster compared our hike just across the street a week ago, testament to the many microclimates that make up Arizona. 

AZT Passage 30 - Anderson Mesa

Weather:  78º, clouds, thunder, light rain

About this Hike:  Today's hike explored part of Passage 30 of the Arizona Trail. I admit I didn't have high expectations. I thought it would rocky savannah punctuated by some ponderosa pines and gamble oak. I was very wrong in all the right ways...

The hike started at a site I'm very familiar with—the trailhead parking lot just outside Dairy Springs Campground. We've used this parking lot numerous times to climb Mormon Mountain. After a hike to the back of the campground, we reached the trailhead and then the junction shortly afterward. Instead of the usual climb up, we turned right to follow the AZT. 

Initially it wasn't the most scenic. The ponderosas are suffering either seasonal needle drop or pine beetle damage; I can't be certain. All I know is there's a lot of orange in a forest that looks like its already been heavily cleared. A few blue spruces punctuate the landscape and provide a reminder that some healthy trees remain. As the hike wraps around the base of Mormon Mountain, the timber scenery doesn't get better. It looks like there's been a lot of pine beetle kill on the flanks of the mountain. 

Bad news out of the way, the forest does eventually improve. Healthy stands of ponderosa pine return, with a random spruce or fir in the conifer mix. The hike transitions between grassy meadows and denser stands of ponderosa. There are occasional viewpoints into the grasslands and meadows around the Mormon Lake Volcanic Field. 

Another interesting facet of Passage 30 is that it is a 'Rails-to-Trails' project of sorts. Much of the trail follows old railroad bed, and the USFS has placed a sign explaining this in more detail. Large walls of volcanic rock and decades old rotted railroad ties provide further evidence of a bygone train track. 

Our turnaround point was approximately six miles in at a wildflower filled meadow with view of the San Francisco Peaks. We were not far from the Pinegrove Campground, making for an easy waypoint should we decide to continue Passage 30 one day. 

The weather today was pleasant with thunder and light rain at the start of our hike. Once this blew past the sun came out briefly, but then clouds returned.  The light rain and clouds made for cooler, pleasant hiking conditions. 

Today's hike ended up being way better than I expected. I'm now planning a return hike in the near future to continue Passage 30 from the Horse Lake Trailhead. 

Great Basin Day Three - Lexington Arch & Lehman Creek

Weather:  80º, sunny

About this Hike:  Today would've been the day to re-do Wheeler Peak. The weather was perfect. I mulled it over in my mind, but decided I wanted to see more of Great Basin's back country. I opted to head south of the main park and down to the Lexington Arch.

A 10.5 mile dirt road drive takes you to the arch. While much of this falls under Bureau of Land  Management initially, the National Park Service has placed signage to make the drive in easier. The hiking trail eventually re-enters the park boundary. The dirt road is mostly hard pack, but it gets very narrow for the final few miles. It also has a lot of vegetation encroachment during these final miles. While the island of vegetation between the two-track gives one fear of a catalytic-converter ignited fire, the vegetation to the sides will most certainly pin stripe most vehicles. That all said, on a dry day like today, four-wheel drive is not necessary. 

Despite the lacking road conditions, this trail is very well maintained. Water crossings are bridged, while signage and markers help lead the way. The scenery is not great. A fire went thru this area some time ago. While the grasses and annoying vegetation have long recovered, silver toothpicks are reminders of forest lost long ago. 

The Lexington Arch was an awesome sight to behold and made up for the lackluster hike to it. There is a bench that looks up at the arch, but the trail continues past the bench. I read its well worth it to pass the bench, keep hiking, and end up underneath the arch. Judging from the topography at the front of the arch, I expected this was going to be a treacherous scramble up to the arch. In fact, the well-maintained trail traverses behind the arch and climbs it with a few switchbacks. It's much more accessible on the back side. I enjoyed cool breezes, a snack, and Great Basin views from under the arch. 

Following my backcountry adventure, I headed back into the main part of the park to explore Lehman Creek. I thought seriously about giving Wheeler another go, even with a 5.5 mile hike already under my belt. Some cloud development near the summit made me think otherwise (it never stormed today). I stuck to the plan and explored Lehman Creek Trail.

What intrigued me about this trail is the fact that it goes from Upper Lehman Campground all the way to Wheeler Peak Campground in just 3.6 miles. This is probably about a 10 mile drive up the winding mountain road to the top. 

This hike started in desert grassland and mulberry. It was hot, uphill, and exposed. Eventually it paralleled Lehman Creek. Close proximity to the creek meant more trees and more shade. That is, until the trail ascended, taking a hard turn away from the creek and traversing a meadow. Here, scenic views of Wheeler Peak came into view. 

The upper reaches of Lehman Creek Trail definitely contained the best viewpoints, forest, and shade. The trail ends in the Wheeler Peak Campground where I took a break on a bench and watched campers setting up camp for the evening. 

And speaking of camping...I think that may be one of the best ways to experience this park. Several of the campgrounds--and especially Wheeler Peak CG--offer hike-out access. One day I hope to return and complete the Wheeler Summit. I hope to do it from my campsite at Wheeler Peak Campground (and maybe in a camper van that I'll own one day). Until then, the past few days have been a wonderful opportunity to experience and learn about Great Basin.

Great Basin Day Two - Wheeler Peak Area

Weather:  55º, clouds, wind

About this Hike:  I woke up early this morning, excited to summit Wheeler Peak. I imagined a battle for parking spaces at the Summit Trailhead. I also knew that this hike is best accomplished early, before late morning thunderstorm energy starts building.

Well prepared, I was at Summit Trailhead by 7:00am. There were about three other cars in an otherwise empty lot. Wheeler Peak was not visible, shroud in gray clouds. With some sun starting peak thru over the basin valley, I thought the fog would soon burn off. After all, the forecast said high chance for thunderstorms today, so heating would be necessary in order to get those storms poppin'. 

The Wheeler Summit hike started out in beautiful aspen and conifer forest. Eventually, it went above timberline, surrounding me in a moonscape of jagged rocks. The fog hadn't lifted. In fact, it seemed heavier. And the wind was relentless. Other hikers warned me the wind was only going to get worse. 

With one mile and about 1,200 feet of elevation gain to go (meaning this was to be a vertical one mile), I made the tough call to turn back. It wasn't worth forcing it any further. The wind was treacherous and beginning to affect my balance. Even if I somehow made the summit, there would be no views to behold with the thick fog soup. 

It was now about 10:30am. What to do with the rest of this day? It was chilly and breezy, but much better conditions back at the trailhead. I moved the truck into the Bristlecone parking area and decided to do the six-mile loop hike that visits the bristlecone pine grove, passes two alpine lakes, and includes a spur to the glacier. 

While the lot was not full, this was a busy hike. The glacier trail gave me the best views of Wheeler Peak, only about 2,000 vertical feet above. In fact, for a brief time the fog lifted and I used my binoculars to try and see the summit. The fog quickly rolled back in, and a few rumbles of thunder were heard. It never ended up storming near the summit, although rain shafts were visible coming down on the distant basin valley. 

After looking at other's photos, I'm wondering if Wheeler Peak Summit is worth it? I'm sure it is, and I would love to sign the summit register and have the sense of accomplishing this. However, in terms of views, I'm not sure you'll see much more than is already visible at the myriad viewpoints and overlooks within Great Basin National Park. Honestly, the desert basin itself is not that becoming. 

I did enjoy the back half of my day. The six miles felt a lot longer. Maybe because I had expended quite a bit of energy on the failed summit attempt. Maybe because the spur to the glacier is a lot rockier and tougher than you'd expect. Regardless, I took my time and tried to read all the signage the NPS has placed in an effort to learn more about this unique place. 

I have one day left in Great Basin. I'm not so sure I'll re-attempt Wheeler, but we'll see what tomorrow brings.

Great Basin Day One - Timber Creek, Pole Canyon, & Osceola

Weather:  78º, sun, clouds, spotty showers

About this Hike:  Today starts my first of three days exploring Great Basin National Park in Nevada. Due to a cold front and subsequent thunderstorms in the area, I opted to keep today's hike in the lower elevations of the park. The cooler temps were a welcome relief, as I can't imagine doing these hikes with summer temps in the 90s. 

My first hike was South Timber Creek toward Johnson Lake. In fact, I reached a pass with a sign indicating 2.7 miles to Johnson Lake. Instead, I opted to close the loop early using Baker Meadows Trail. I did this because while 2.7 miles doesn't sound too far, the map indicated there was a lot of elevation to be gained and that it may go above timberline. With the threat of thunderstorms ever present, I decided not to venture too deep into the backcountry. I also assumed that Johnson Lake would be a puddle at best this time of year. 

After finishing the loop (and kicking myself a bit for not pushing on to Johnson Lake), I visited Pole Canyon Trail next. I enjoyed a relatively easy ascent thru riparian areas, bounded by stark gray canyon walls. Eventually I reached the upper reaches of this trail and more open meadows. The 360-degree views of mountains and the basin valley in the distance were impressive. This was early afternoon and the skies were starting to thunder. I turned around and hurried back to the Pole Canyon parking area, arriving back just before the storm blew in. It never amounted to much, and I spent some time exploring the Great Basin Visitor Center. 

With the threat of storms past, I decided on one more hike. It was going to be Lehman Creek Trail. Unfortunately my GPS had a different plan. After not notifying me of the turn, I was now on my way up the scenic parkway. This shelf road has limited turnarounds. My next chance to safely turnaround was at Osceola Ditch Trailhead, a trail I wanted to explore anyway. I decided to just hike Osceola instead since I was already at the trailhead. I hiked in a little over a mile to Mill Creek, traversing boulder fields and high desert terrain. The forest became much more lush around Mill Creek, which ended up being my turnaround point. The topography of the ditch, and much of the timber that supported this nineteenth-century mining aqueduct, are still in-tact. 

After Osceola, I was tired and it was dinner time. I'm glad to have explored the lower elevations of the park. Hopefully drier weather is in store the next couple days, because I want to spend more time up near Wheeler Peak. 

Buck Mountain Lookout

Weather:  88º, sun, occasional clouds

About this Hike:  I noticed the sign for Buck Mountain Lookout last weekend while driving up to Flagstaff. We decided to make a return visit today to check out this historic fire lookout. 

I wasn't sure how drivable FR-229 would be, but it ended up being an easy drive up to the last mile where we opted to park and begin the hike. The last spur of road up to the fire lookout is closed anyway, with a sign advising foot traffic only. 

For an historic lookout built in the 1930s, I was surprised to see a lot of modern infrastructure. I'm uncertain when this lookout officially closed. The AI answer I received was in the 1970s, but the signage and infrastructure look newer than that. While the cab is closed and boarded up, the stairs up to the tower are open. In fact, the wood decking of the tower looks surprisingly new. My research also indicated the tower underwent restoration in 2022. 

While obscured by vegetation, the views atop Buck Mountain were impressive. I especially enjoyed using my binoculars to find Apache Maid Mountain (and its fire lookout) along with Wet Beaver Wilderness. Despite their proximity, I was unable to see any of Sedona. 

During our lunch break, an Arizona Sister butterfly landed on my red hiking back. She put on quite a show, pumping her wings while using her proboscis to lap up whatever residue was on my pack. 

The day was hot, save for a few clouds and rumbles of distant thunder. We kept this hike relatively short and then headed back to Pine for beers at That Brewery. 

Bear Jaw Abineau & Walker Lake

Weather:  70º, humid, clouds, occasional light rain, sun later

About this Hike:  Triple digits are here in Arizona, even for Rim Country. I decided to head above 8,000 feet to try and get some respite from the heat. It's been a while since I've explored the Bear Jaw Abineau loop in the Kachina Peaks Wilderness north of Flagstaff. Today seemed to be the perfect day to visit again. 

When I arrived at the trailhead around noon, the sun felt scorching. I feared this was going to be an unpleasant hike. However, dark clouds were building around the Kachina Peaks. While cloud cover would offer some respite from the sun, it also could mean lightning—not something you want when climbing to above 10,000 feet. The forecast had indicated low chance of storms today, but in the mountains during an active monsoon season, a daily storm is almost inevitable. 

In the past I've hiked this loop counter-clockwise. Doing so gets the steeper portion out of the way on the ascent up the Abineau Trail, with a more gradual descent on the Bear Jaw Trail. 

The day ended up being perfect weather-wise. The clouds never thundered, but they did bring respite from the sun. When I reached the Waterline Connector Trail at the top of Abineau Peak, I received a welcome, cooling shower. By the time I reached the junction with Bear Jaw Trail to begin my descent, the sun was already back out. 

Before beginning my descent, I lingered and took in the spectacular views of the mountains and old-growth conifer forest. The Kachina Peaks look like something you'd see in Colorado or in the Rockies. With no major fires in Arizona right now, the air was reasonably clear today. There were views across the meadows studded with ancient volcanic features, reaching all the way up to the rim of the Grand Canyon. The forest floor was alive with wildflowers and colorful berries. 

While the sun came back out, once I got under the canopy of thicker forest, it offered plenty of shade. The forest transitions from high-altitude conifer to massive aspen, and then eventually old-growth ponderosas make a return. The ponderosas are never very dense in this ecosystem, but the ones that have managed to thrive above 8,000 feet are gargantuan. And there's the smell...this is a very fragrant forest. The notes of pine mix with the butterscotch-vanilla of the ponderosas. 

I had such an enjoyable afternoon on Bear Jaw Abineau that I didn't want it to end. Studying the sign and map at the trailhead, I decided on one more quick hike, this to Walker Lake. Walker Lake is a bowl-shaped ancient volcanic feature. Like most of the 'lakes' in this area, it is a meadow that floods in a wet year. 

I parked my truck just off Hart Prairie Road and followed a four-digit forest road back toward the lake. An older couple with a camper van were dispersed camping back a little ways. I could have driven back to the lake, but with an unknown four-digit forest road, I didn't want to risk it. These are often not suitable for anything more than a dirt bike or ATV. 

Walker Lake is just a grassy meadow, with a muddy puddle in the center. Despite all the monsoon action as of late, the Kachina Peaks need a winter of solid snowfall.

Regardless, today was a great day and left me wanting to come up to Flagstaff more often to explore the Inner Basin and all the other neat features this area has to offer. 

Kinder Crossing and Blue Ridge

Weather:  72º, humid, clouds, occasional light rain

About this Hike:  I went up to the rim today planning to explore the short, but interesting, hike at Kinder Crossing. I figured afterward I'd hang around along FR-95 and see what other interesting sights there are. 

I parked the truck at the road for Kinder Crossing (95T) where it intersects FR-95. I didn't want to drive far down this rough, muddy road, opting to hike in instead. I reached the rim of East Clear Creek Canyon and took in the panoramic viewpoints. The sky was growing darker and I heard distant thunder. I second guessed if I should return to the truck, but stubbornly hiked down the switchbacks into the canyon anyway. 

A family was in front of me, and I eventually caught up to them. By the looks of their gear, they were headed down to East Clear Creek to go swimming. With recent monsoon rains, I imagine East Clear Creek would be a great swimming spot. The family was none to happy to see me, frequently watching over their shoulders while they stopped to take pictures and just generally block the trail. 

I took some photos of the striking cliffs and rock formations all reflected by the waters of East Clear Creek. The family continued blocking forward progress on the trail, and the skies kept getting louder. I decided I'd seen what I came to see today, and I turned back.

The approximately 1.5 mile hike back to the truck flew by. I hoofed it out quickly, nervous of the greenish-blue tint to the storm clouds. I hoped the family in the canyon would be OK. 

 I reached the truck before the first rain drops began to fall. While FR-95 is as good of a USFS road as you'll ever get, I decided to return to pavement. I drove down to the Moqui Campground turn off and parked at a trailhead for the Arizona Trail (AZT). 

Reading a book and eating lunch, I waited out the storm. Once it seemed to have past, dropping only a little rain, I ventured out on a new-to-me segment of the AZT. From Moqui to the parking area on FR-751 (Blue Ridge Reservoir), I have not explored that segment of the AZT. In fact, I wrote it off as likely being boring. I ended up being very wrong about this. 

This part of the Blue Ridge AZT segment wanders through grassy meadows, green from all the monsoon rain, and healthy ponderosa pine forest (nice to see since most pines along AZ-87 have either burned or succumbed to beetles). The trail passes by Moqui Campground and then goes straight through Blue Ridge Campground, exiting the camping area right next to the host site. 

The trail climbed a volcanic rock formation, opening up into a wide vista. The San Francisco Peaks were visible, as was a body of water. Too shallow to be Blue Ridge Reservoir, I believe what I saw was Long Lake, or one of the other small lakes in that area. 

As I got closer to where the AZT intersects FR-751, I began to hear dogs and people. I know this to be a popular area for dispersed camping. Having hiked south on the AZT from the FR-751 trailhead previously, I opted to turn around. The skies were getting ornery again, and I didn't think there was anything more to see. 

While I dodged a couple thunderstorms, it made for a rain-cooled and pleasant atmosphere on today's hikes. While Payson was getting slammed with storms and hail, it was a surprisingly nice day in the northern part of Rim Country. 

Monsoon Desert Hike - Canyon of the Waterfalls

Weather:  75º, humid, clouds, rain

About this Hike:  Since its recent rise in social media popularity, I've become intrigued by Canyon of the Waterfalls in the Superstition Mountains. Located on the periphery of Lost Dutchman State Park off First Water Road, I've driven by this trailhead countless times without ever noticing it. 

My plan was to visit this area in the cooler months. An active monsoon this week meant cooler temps and the potential for the waterfalls to be flowing. The stars seemingly aligned for a unique desert hike during an otherwise unthinkable time of year. 

I left Payson early, fearing many others would have the same idea as me. I expected full parking along First Water Road, and I anticipated a possible muddy mess along the road. 

Upon arrival at the waterfall trailhead, I scored the last available parking spot. The road was fairly dry, and the wash that comes right after the waterfall parking area was also dry. This was despite the fact it was still raining.

I parked the truck and wondered if I should have brought my rain jacket. The rain was steady, but not heavy, and there was no lightning or thunder. The jacket would have just made me too hot. As it goes with summer rains in the desert, it never cools things down that much, but it sure does drive the humidity high. 

I found this hike to be challenging to stay on trail. As I neared the first of the rock formations, I noted a lot of slippery black rock that I had to hike up. The slickness was exacerbated by the steady rain. I feared what coming down was going to be like. While wet rocks are inherently slick, I was surprised to find that I had good traction. 

I pressed on past the rock formations, losing the trail and having to search for it several times with my hiking GPS. I followed the trail into a wash that was dry. A large rock outcropping stained black had to be navigated around. I assumed this to be one of the waterfalls, and it was definitely not flowing. 

Beyond this first waterfall, I reached a slick, steep scramble. It wasn't long, nor completely vertical, but I watched other hikers having a terrible time coming down it. Once they passed I gave it a go. The rain was picking up, adding to my overall nervousness. Having hiked in about two miles at this point, I made the tough decision to turn around. 

From a higher point on the trail, I used my binoculars to look up-canyon. I got the impression that the wash in the canyon wasn't flowing much, despite all the recent rain. One of the hikers I encountered at my turnaround point also confirmed this by calling the rest of the hike, "A would-be river." 

Shortly after turning around, the rain stopped. I followed a couple of other hikers who took a path around the slick rocks that I climbed up on the way in. This path stuck to mostly gravel and offered far better traction. This is what happens when you're hiking on an unofficial trail and relying on the footprints of those who've gone before you. 

I'm not sure if I made the right call or not by turning around. Shortly after I turned back, the rain stopped. The trail was already well on its way to drying out by the time I was back at the trailhead. A picture I found on AllTrails dated from the last couple days does show the waterfall up-canyon flowing a bit. While I can be a stubborn individual and keep pressing on in less-than-ideal circumstances, I also can be overly cautious at times. A YouTube video of this hike also indicated there may have been a narrow ledge, rock-wall clinging, and a sheer drop further up-canyon. I am very limited by my extreme fear of heights in such scenarios.  

Maybe one day I'll come back. Perhaps I'll try the waterfall canyon again on a combined trip with another relatively unknown trail in the area that has recently earned social media fame:  Triple Arch Trail.

East Baldy 95

Weather:  79º, sunny

About this Hike:  Just over two years ago I hiked up East Baldy. I was intrigued by the historic plane crash site near the summit. Back in 2024 we were coming off a winter of solid snow pack, and snow fields on the mountain made for an unpleasant hike. Now coming off two lackluster winters, I knew snow wouldn't be a problem on Baldy this year. I wanted to experience East Baldy in drier conditions and see if there are any additional airplane artifacts that were buried in snow last time. 

I forgot just how nice East Baldy is. It's seldom a steep climb, and it remains within forest for most of the hike. There's a lot of unique rock formations to enjoy, and it frequently opens up into stunning viewpoints. 

Unfortunately, a lot of the surrounding forest is succumbing pine beetle--a problem happening all over the western US. Many of the spruces and firs have turned an unpleasant brownish-orange color. Some of the worst die off is in the meadow surrounding the east fork of the Little Colorado River. Thankfully, there is still plenty of healthy old-growth forest to enjoy further up-trail. 

I reached the plane crash site in just over two hours--quite a bit faster than in 2024 when I could've used snowshoes. The only obstacles that slowed me down were areas of deadfall across the trail. Most of these have a side route carved around them, but some were an obstacle course to navigate. 

I didn't find any additional airplane wreckage at the summit. The pieces that I saw two years ago are all that is easily visible. However, mother nature must know this is ultimately a gravesite. The area around the crash is a field of beautiful mountain lupines. 

The wind was howling something fierce near the summit. It was making a eerie whistle through the stands of toothpicks that used to be trees. Some of these were crashing against each other adding to the cacophony. While I ate lunch near the crash site last time, I opted not to do so today. Judging from the amount of deadfall that litters these upper reaches of Mount Baldy, I thought the risk of a tree falling on me was too high. I took some photos and then began my descent back down, glad to have enjoyed East Baldy again in warmer conditions. 

Government Springs

Weather:  79º, sunny

About this Hike:  The plan for today was to head to the White Mountains and kayak at Crescent Lake. This body of water intrigued me last summer when I camped at Big Lake. I was hoping Crescent had fared like the rim lakes--despite virtually no snowpack this winter, the rim lakes filled up to about three-quarters their capacity due to some good rainfall. 

Before heading to the lake, I set up camp at one of my favorites--Winn Campground. The camp host informed me Crescent is considered a dead lake. Upon arrival, I found very low water, mud, and scum. I'm not sure if what I smelled was the scum on the water or the pit toilets... Harkening back to my algae-filled experience kayaking Big Lake last August, I knew better than to even attempt the gross cesspool that is Crescent's current condition. Someday after a winter of heavy snowpack when its full of clean, fresh water, I imagine Crescent will be a fun lake to paddle. 

My Plan B was right across the street from Crescent at the Overland Trail. I opened a gate and parked on the other side. The forest road was in awful condition. An trail sign indicates this is in fact the Overland Trail. It went briefly through some nice forest. It opened into a meadow with a preserved multi-room cabin. The meadow seemed to be an impromptu campground, and I was left wondering how people managed to get fifth-wheel trailers back there. The Overland Trail vanished and I had no luck finding it. The GPS track would indicate I was on trail, but in reality I was walking through a cow and elk poop filled meadow. 

I opted to turn back and try to figure something else out. I thought about Thompson Trail along the Black River. Even though I've done that one a few times before, it would be better than nothing. I opted instead to head back toward Winn Campground and see what Sheeps Crossing was all about. After all, the FS feels that Sheeps Crossing merits a paved parking lot.

I started down the only trail that branched from the parking lot. Soon, I was along the west fork of the Little Colorado. I followed what is an unmapped, but well-maintained trail parallel to the river. And speaking of the river, I think this is a more enjoyable (and less crowded) hike than Thompson Trail. I was surrounded by unique rock formations, trees, wildflowers, and of course, the constant burble of the river. I noted that the trail has clearly received maintenance, and someone has posted green arrow markers on trees. Since you're in a shallow, narrow canyon, it's not hard to stay on trail--just stay parallel with the river. Aside from a few boulder fields and muddy seeps, it was an easy trail to follow.

Since it was late in the day, I only went about two miles and then turned back. Looking at the map, I suspected this trail would lead to Greer. I confirmed that it does in fact lead to Greer, and can be hiked from Government Springs Trailhead. 

While not an official FS trail, Government Springs was a redeeming hike on a day that otherwise had not gone well. It was back to Winn Campground to get ready for tomorrow's hike at East Baldy. 

Webber Weekend

Weather:  85º clouds and sun, humid

About this Hike:  This weekend consisted of two hikes:  West Webber Canyon on Friday and then East Webber Canyon on Saturday. 

I've visited West Webber a couple times previously. Since the relatively low-grade fire that went thru there in September of 2024, I wanted to see how the area is recovering. It's never total decimation, and there's plenty of healthy forest left. Around West Webber creek the bigtooth maples and other deciduous trees are  growing in thick. The weather was cloudy and humid for this hike, although it never rained. 

I encountered some cattle in West Webber Canyon, including a protective bull watching over the herd and calves. I gave him plenty of space, and oddly enough, seemed to find a side trail. Some of the trees were pink-tagged while large, black lengths of PVC hose piping were run along the creek. It definitely was not unexplored territory. 

If I had the time, I could have continued on Geronimo Trail to East Webber, but Friday was just a quick afternoon hike. I came back today (Saturday) and opted to start East Webber by parking below the rim at Geronimo Trailhead. The first 2.7 miles of this hike follow what looks like old roads that are fairly exposed and hot. You're bypassing the private property perimeter around Geronimo Camp. Cutting thru the camp would be a great shortcut, as they've built their own trail access. If only...

I guess we can thank the Geronimo Campers (I believe its Boy Scouts) for the trail markers along Webber trails. These far exceed the standard used by the USFS to mark trails. Not to mention, I believe Geronimo campers do some maintenance on these trails, too. 

Regardless, I reached the entrance to East Webber and then the real fun began. This area also suffered a fire a few years ago. Much like West Webber, fire damage seems to be minimal with plenty of healthy and in-tact forest to enjoy. The scenery is often old-growth ponderosa, spruce, and fir. Their trunks are blackened, yet the crowns are green and healthy. The forest floor was alive with a green carpet of ferns. 

The trail meanders along Webber Creek, crossing a few times. The creek was flowing good today, although not so much as to make crossings difficult. The trail began to get a little more overgrown, and I reached a yellow sign indicating 'Swimming Hole.' In fact there was a nice pool of water with a trickling waterfall. This made a good lunch break spot.

Beyond the swimming hole the trail begins to deteriorate quickly. The map indicates it may go on a bit further, but I wasn't about to go bush whacking. The overgrown canyon had an eerie feel to it, and I figured there was a reason the GPS track stopped here. 

I made good time on the hike back, spurred on by a looming thunderstorm on top of the rim. Eventually I got rained on, but it was a welcome respite on what was a hot day for hiking. Regardless, I'm glad to have enjoyed both ends of Webber Canyon. 

Fred Haught

Weather:  79º and sunny

About this Hike:  About five years ago we explored the Fred Haught Cabin. Back then the Mogollon Rim felt so exotic. Now Rim Country is home, but that still doesn't take away the allure of this unique microclimate in the high country of Arizona. 

After doing Barbershop last weekend, I felt I wanted more of the same for this weekend. Returning to Fred Haught seemed like the perfect solution. 

The hike starts at the General Springs Cabin. This restored cabin is quite possibly the most in-tact of all the Cabin Loops sites. However, the front door has been removed and you can now wander inside. It hasn't been graffitied, set of fire, etc...yet. Inside you can clearly see the log-beam construction. There is a small room at the back of the cabin. 

I carried on with my hike. Fred Haught meanders through meadows carved out by the General Spring. The creek was full of water, and I was surprised to see some sizable fish in the pools. Old-growth ponderosa dominates this landscape, with areas of spruce and fir mixed in. 

The sign that vaguely indicates a half-mile side hike to Fred Haught Cabin is still standing and easily visible. The cabin is nothing more than some rotting timbers arranged in a square and flat rocks stacked to make a fireplace and chimney. I have my doubts that any of this is original construction. 

I decided to follow the Fred Haught Trail a little further. Forest Road 95 ended up being my turnaround point. The area was now grassland with what ponderosas remain in an otherwise heavily logged landscape. 

The repeating cycle of old-growth forest, stream, and meadow along the Mogollon Rim never gets old. I was glad to enjoy this part of Cabin Loop again.

Barbershop Spring Hike

Weather:  70º, sun

About this Hike:  Originally I was going to spend this weekend at South Rim of the Grand Canyon. I was finally going to explore Shoshone Point and South Kaibab. Only the weather didn't cooperate. And work didn't cooperate. I cancelled my prime campsite in Mather Campground and opted to stay home.

Regardless, getting back to Barbershop this spring has been on my short list. With sunny skies, cooler temps, and rain a few days ago, now seemed like a perfect time. The Barbershop trailhead off FR-321 was completely empty. 

We enjoyed the hike thru massive old-growth spruce and fir, mixing with plenty of ponderosa pine. The meadows were green with grass, and Barbershop Creek had some muddy water in it. 

When we reached Barbershop's terminus at Houston Brothers Trail, it was a different scene. Cars filled most all available parking spots along FR-139. Ironically, we saw just one backpacking couple on the trail the entire afternoon. Perhaps everyone was hiking on Houston Brothers. 

This lush ecosystem—largely void of any desert plants—remains a favorite escape on the Mogollon Rim.

Haigler Creek Falls

Weather:  79º, sun, windy

About this Hike:  After this plan going sideways two weeks ago, today was finally my chance to explore the Haigler Creek Recreation Area. 

The plan for today consisted of two hikes. The first of these involved going a mile or so past the Haigler Creek neighborhood and exploring an area on the outskirts of Hellsgate Wilderness. On satellite imagery and thru my binoculars, I've observed large, white squares in Hellsgate. I wanted to see one of these up close, and found one just past Haigler. The infrastructure in question is a large water catchment device for wildlife. I hiked a bit past the water catchment, as my satellite-imagery research led me to think this could be an interesting ridge with some viewpoints. It was a flat hike along a ridge with some views down toward Young and distant meadows. The most scenic thing about it was the cholla cactus that were in full bloom with bright magenta flowers and clusters of yellow fruit. 

The Hellsgate hike was just a warmup. My next stop was Haigler Creek with the intent to hike to the famed Haigler waterfall. The trail to the waterfall is actually an active road, but it's in rough shape. With plenty of parking available just off FR-200, I opted to hike in. There were plenty of ATVs, but also a surprising number of trucks and SUVs, most of which were lifted, had off-road tires, etc. 

I got a little off course while following the All Trails map. It showed me off trail, despite the fact I was following the road. I wasted some time hunting for the GPS track on the map--an ever-moving target--thinking it was a side trail off the main road. Finally I gave up and just opted to follow the road. Eventually I rejoined the All Trails route track.

 As I got deeper into the canyon, the forest of ponderosa and fir became more and more dense. Descending a steep hill, the waters of Haigler Creek came into view. 

Every camp spot along the creek was occupied. The creek had decent flow, and plenty of inviting pools, which campers were taking full advantage of. I pressed on toward the falls, negotiating three creek crossings. The path continued to be an ATV road, yet at times it would disappear, only to reappear a little further downline. I assumed ATVs drive in the creek bed for these stretches. 

Speaking of the creek bed, it quickly went from flowing to dry, chalky rocks. The reddish canyon walls were impressive, but the dry creek bed did not bode well for the falls. Just before the falls, I was delayed while a convoy of Jeeps made their way out of the canyon. I could not believe street vehicles, no matter how lifted, made it all the way back here. Even more nerve wracking was watching them navigate the rocks, getting the Jeeps on crazy angles. 

The falls were unmistakable, but the only evidence of water was a muddy pool at the base. Regardless, I enjoyed the thick forest and plant life along the wetter portions of Haigler Creek. I'm glad to finally have explored this area. 

Walnut and Two Ravens Loop

Weather:  75º, mostly cloudy

About this Hike:  The plan today was to explore some trails down near Haigler Creek. Unfortunately, a crash—and subsequent road closure—on 260 threw a wrench in those plans. Rather than waste nearly $5/gallon fuel, we decided to pivot and head north toward Pine.

I explored Walnut Trail a few weeks ago. At that time, I stuck to the part of Walnut that runs in tandem with the Arizona Trail. However, I was curious what the path would look like if I continued north on Walnut. I was also intrigued by a brand new trail called Two Ravens. 

While Two Ravens is so new it doesn't appear on most maps yet, I was able to determine that northern Walnut could be looped by starting at Hardscrabble Road and using Two Ravens as a connector. This also allowed for a hike to Oak Spring. 

In fact, the northern part of Walnut is some of the best this trail system has to offer. It follows a dry creek through a riparian canyon. Tall ponderosas provide some shade, while gamble oak and bigtooth maple had me already planning a return hike in the fall. Eventually we reached Oak Spring. From there, we used the Arizona Trail to climb out of the canyon and junction with Two Ravens. 

Two Ravens is a nice, groomed path. I noticed two other new trails called Bradshaw and Waterfall—both of which junction with Two Ravens. Since you're right up against the land boundaries with the town of Pine, I doubt these trails go very far. They still may be worth investigating. 

This 4.6 mile loop ended back at Hardscrabble road. It definitely wasn't what I planned for this weekend, but it was better than just turning around and going home. 

Return to Bear Flat

Weather:  65º, mostly cloudy

About this Hike:  We've wanted to return to Bear Flat since first visiting in early November of last year. Today was finally our chance. 

After parking at the trailhead outside the private Bear Flat neighborhood, we carefully crossed Tonto Creek. In general, flow was lower today than it was in November. The water crossings on FR-405 were mostly dry today.

Despite having learned a lesson about how to follow the main Bear Flat trail last time, we still managed to get a little off course at the start. We stayed parallel to the fence that marks the land boundary. We kept paralleling it, even as it got steeper and steeper. Finally, I realized this was wrong. A quick check of hiking GPS and we were able to get back on course relatively quick. Even on the correct trail, the hike out of Tonto Creek and Bear Flat is no picnic...it's extremely steep. 

We continued past Mescal Ridge, picking up were we left off last time. The pine forest only got thicker. And it stayed that way. I was amazed at the density of healthy ponderosa pine and fir trees in this area. It feels like this should be up on the Mogollon Rim. 

Last November we also visited the southern end of the Bear Flat trail near Haigler Creek. I observed the same dense pine forest down there. I just didn't realize that it extended all the way north along Bear Flat Trail, especially with so much of Hellsgate Wilderness being more high desert vegetation. 

During that southern Bear  Flat hike, I also mentioned wanting to reach Horse Mountain. Today we made it to Horse Mountain, but it was nothing distinct. Rather the trail (more like the typical Hellsgate ATV road) wrapped around the side of Horse Mountain. I could look up the steep hill and see dense pine forest. 

At the 5.5 mile mark from Bear Flat is where the vegetation finally opened up. We got some views to the south with Tonto Basin, Sierra Ancha Wilderness, and Four Peaks coming into view. The ridgeline of Christopher Mountain to the northeast was also a distinct feature. Otherwise, the vegetation on this hike often obscured any potential viewpoints. The trail was going to begin a steep drop beyond this point. We opted to make this our turnaround. 

Since last fall we've done a lot of day hikes around Hellsgate. I would like to see a part of Hellsgate called Salt Canyon. In that area I've observed a large, white piece of infrastructure thru binoculars. It may be some type of water catchment device. I'm definitely intrigued. However, unless I get into overnight backpacking, some of the deeper parts of Hellsgate may not be easily accessible via a day hike.