West Baldy #94

Weather:  81°; clouds and sun

About this Hike:  Rested up after a night at Winn Campground, I headed to West Baldy #94 to get an early start. This time of year the days start beautiful in the White Mountains—clear blue skies with not a cloud in sight. By lunchtime this often changes as the thunderstorms build in. 

I came to this hike expecting it to be another gorgeous White Mountains landscape—old growth forests, lush meadows, and the winding west fork of the Little Colorado River. My map indicated it was about seven miles to the pseudo-summit where West Baldy #94 joins East Baldy #95. 

I didn't expect to reach that summit. I planned to go as far as I could and just enjoy the magnificent scenery while keeping a close watch on the skies. As the first thunderheads began building, I planned to head for lower elevation. 

What I didn't realize is that most of the elevation gain on this well-traveled trail comes later in the hike. Meanwhile, I was enjoying the scenery. Wildflowers filled the meadows around the Little Colorado. I'd hike through an open, grassy meadow only to again be under the canopy of granddaddy lodgepole pines, firs, spruces, ponderosas, and aspens. I lost track of time. The trail was ascending very gradually, but thus far there was no steep ascent. I looked at my map and realized I was about three-quarters of the way to the summit. A few grey clouds had popped up and were offering some welcome respite from the sun's rays. The clouds weren't thundering, but I knew the weather was changing. Regardless, I was now determined to reach that summit. 

At this point the trail exits the thick forest and comes into a damaged area. On both West Baldy, and looking to the other ridge on the east, downed trees litter the landscape like toothpicks. I thought this was Wallow Fire damage from 2011, but I may be incorrect. I've heard everything from pine beetle kill, to a fire in the early 2000s is responsible for this damage. 

Despite the damage, the forest is regenerating. Parts of the landscape are covered in blue spruces that look to be about 10-15 years old based on their height. It's like a Christmas tree forest. And it's right about here where the steepest elevation gain begins. A few tight switchbacks push your ascent above 11K feet. 

I met a friendly lady on horseback who advised me to watch for a meadow full of purple wildflowers in one of the areas where the pines had died. It was magnificent. She also told me to look out for the famed plane crash site. I was able to find the fuselage on the mountainside using my binoculars. 

Finally, I pushed ahead to the pseudo-summit. I call it this because the true summit is on tribal land and requires permission to hike to. I did find the trail that would have led to the true summit. I expected a warning sign and perhaps a gate. Logs and stones laid across the trail are the only indicator this area is off limits. It wouldn't stop anyone who wanted to just step over it. I opted to respect tribal land, and plus, the summit adds about another mile each way and I was tired. Plus I now had to hike back down seven miles.

I briefly considered going down East Baldy. After all, the sign at the junction indicated it was a couple miles shorter. But linking back to the West Baldy lot where I was parked would add more mileage. I opted to return the way I came. 

Shortly after beginning my descent, the cloudy skies began to rumble. And rumble some more. The first thunderstorm popped up and dropped some rain. The rain-cooled air actually felt pretty good. I met other hikers still on their ascent. I was surprised how most of them seemed unfazed by the afternoon weather. Meanwhile, I was hustling to get to lower elevation. 

That first storm blew through and clear skies returned. I continued on my descent, but as I came within a couple miles of the trailhead, mother nature unleashed again. Loud thunder and hail came with this one. Thankfully the hail was just an annoyance and not dangerous. I still got a good soaking. Other hikers were laughing and joking about it. I wish I could be so nonchalant, but I hate getting caught in thunderstorms. 

When I originally researched this hike, West Baldy looked more scenic to me. But now that I've seen it in person, you can bet I'll be back to do East Baldy. With a little more research and planning, I might have done both as a loop, but at the same time I look forward to returning to this beautiful area. 

Thompson Trail #629 - High Road vs. Low Road

Weather:  79°; clouds and sun

About this Hike:  Getting there may be half the fun, but not when it comes to the White Mountains. The drive takes forever, which is why I'd only been to this part of the state once in the past. 

But now that Payson is home, that drive is 'only' about three hours, and I'm planning on exploring the White Mountains more in depth. With Payson weather as of late being reminiscent of the Phoenix Valley weather I left behind (triple digits and no rain), I decided to head for the 'coolest' spot in the state right now. 

I set up camp Friday afternoon at Winn Campground under threatening skies. Rain showers started just east of Pinetop and followed me the entire way to the campground. With my site picked out and camp set up, I headed out for my first hike.

Being as it was late afternoon, I planned an easy hike for this evening. I've long seen photos from the White Mountains of lush, wildflower-studded meadows with a stream flowing through the middle. I wanted this type of scenery to be my White Mountains experience. The hike on Thompson Trail did not disappoint.  

The hike begins at a well-signed trailhead off a maintained gravel road. I hiked along a decommissioned forest road and admired views of the west fork of the Black River down below. I saw what looked like a path on the river's edge and even some other hikers down there. The embankment was pretty steep, and I wondered how they got down there... 

Eventually I reached the end of the old road at a marked junction. The sign read 'Thompson Trail 0.3 mile.' I thought I had been on the Thompson Trail the whole time. Looking at my map, I saw a series of extremely tight switchbacks in the direction where the sign pointed to Thompson Trail. Those switchbacks would take me down to the river. But would there be a trail down there, or would it be marshy grass? I decided to explore, but only a little further. The trail was rocky and getting hard to follow. I opted to play it safe and return the way I came, at least until I reached a small saddle where the embankment wasn't so steep. 

Climbing down the embankment and through the marshy grass, I was able to get down to the river's edge where a well-blazed trail awaited me. I followed this all the way back to a gate on the old road, which then led back to the trailhead. In other words, I could have hiked at the river's edge the entire time. The trick is to follow the path to the left of the gate as you come in via the old road. Regardless, this was a beautiful, easy ~5 mile hike, and a good intro to the White Mountains.

I returned to camp to get ready for the next day's big hike at Mount Baldy. 

Military Sinkhole Via 260 Trailhead

Weather:  90°; sun; windy

About this Hike:  Driving eastbound from Payson on AZ-260, I've long been intrigued by a sign indicating a left turn that's aptly named '260 Trailhead.'   

This is an uncomfortable left turn.  The highway is four lanes total (two in each direction) with a solid center line.  There's no center lane for making a left turn.  Oh, and the speed limit is 55 mph, with most people doing far in excess of that.  

Military Sinkhole trail ascends the Mogollon Rim from 260 Trailhead.  If the left turn were not safe, my Plan B was to drive a few more miles and park at Military Sinkhole Vista on top of the rim and then hike this trail in the opposite direction.  Thankfully, with no traffic behind me, and a gap in oncoming traffic, I was able to make the legal, but treacherous, left turn into 260 Trailhead parking lot. 

I was surprised to find a large gravel lot with bulletin boards, a latrine, and well-signed trails branching in multiple directions.  

From the parking lot I began my ascent on Military Sinkhole Trail.  The forest service website labels this as Trail #966, but the signage at the trail has it as Trail #179.  Regardless, the ascent up the rim takes place over about two miles and just over 1,000 feet of elevation gain.  It starts out in a vein of "Sedona-esque' red rock, but quickly becomes shadier.  In fact, this section of the hike has the best forest.  A thick blend of firs, spruces, and ponderosas are complemented by plenty of maple and oak.  I might need to come back here in the fall.  

The trail crests on the rim at Military Sinkhole lookout site, which is part of the Rim Lakes Vista Trail.  Forest Road 300 (Rim Road) is still paved at this point, and the vista lookout sites have paved parking lots.  This means expect lots of tourist traffic.  

Despite the higher elevation, the forest on this part of the rim changes.  Mighty ponderosas dominate with no firs or spruces in sight.  The pines are spread apart, and the forest floor feels almost like high desert grassland.  Open grassy meadows are abundant while old logging roads criss-cross the landscape. 

I opted to cross FR-300 and continue along the trail.  I found what I'm certain is the Military Sinkhole.  It's just a shallow depression in the ground.  Maybe it fills with water during the wetter seasons.  Being as it was still early in the day, I continued my hike following the trail and Old Rim Road to the 235 Road Trail.  I hiked to a feature on the map called 'Lake Three.'  Lake Three was void of any water, but it was beautiful, grassy elk meadow.  This was my turn around point.  

Despite the forecasted highs on the rim top being in the low 80s, it was hot.  The wind picked up in the afternoon, which was a welcome relief. Despite the shade of the thicker trees, the hike down only got hotter as I descended in elevation.  

I've long been curious about 260 Trailhead, and I'm glad to have explored this area.  And of course, I found a few other trails that I'll need to come back and explore again in the near future.  

Loy Canyon - FINALLY!

Weather:  70°; clouds and sun

I love Secret Mountain Wilderness. I've explored Secret Canyon from Sedona before, and I couldn't wait to explore more of Secret Mountain via Loy Canyon. It's taken the last six months for this hike to materialize. Each time I'd plan a trip to Sedona, the weather would turn for the worst and I'd have to cancel. 

Finally, with ideal spring weather upon us, I made an impulse decision to do a Saturday trip up to Red Rock Country.  

The road out to Loy Canyon TH isn't bad at all, which is surprising after the wet winter we've had. It's maintained dirt/gravel, and the utility poles that follow the road remind you you're not far from civilization, remote as it may feel out there. 

This hike begins in Red Rock Country, which gives way to beautiful old-growth forest. Then it gets less pretty as you emerge from forest into desert scrub and sandstone. This section is the switchbacks that ascend up to Secret Mountain. Definitely watch your footing in here, as the trail is a shelf in some sections. The views of Secret Mountain and the canyon are breathtaking. 

Once through the switchbacks I reached the saddle and junction with Secret Mountain. I first went to the south, but the trail gave out quickly. Massive trees have fallen, and the trail is not only blocked but tore up with huge gashes that are impassable. The elk are certainly enjoying this area of Secret Mountain. Whatever's on top of Secret Mountain may have to wait for another day (doubtful as my understanding is this section isn't being maintained anymore).

I opted to go to the north and hiked over to the Secret Mountain TH. I was actually impressed to see this is a semi-developed TH. I put down my pack here and had lunch. The creeks in the lower elevations of Loy Canyon were bone dry which is unexpected after this wet winter AND there's patchy snow on Secret Mountain. However, in the higher elevations water is still flowing. I first heard and then spied two beautiful waterfalls across the canyon. I also heard, but did not see, what was most certainly a rock slide somewhere in the canyon. 

Unable to explore Secret Mountain further, I returned the way I came. I'm so glad to check this one off my bucket list, but I may be back.  My understanding is that there are some impressive Native ruins to explore in Loy Canyon.

Y Bar Trail #44

Weather:  55°, sunny

About this Hike:  It seems like in December / January I often end up hiking in the upper Mazatzal Mountains. If you luck out with weather, it can be reasonably warm during the day, but not overly hot this time of year.  The temperature plummets quickly once the sun is behind canyon walls and then sets for the day.  An added bonus is rain / snow in the mountains can make for flowing springs.  Today was just such a day. 

Back in March when I explored Mt. Peeley and Mazatzal Divide, I noted more trails across a distant valley.  I did some research and learned this was likely Y Bar Trail #44.  In fact about five years ago I explored Barnhardt Trail, which splits with Y Bar to form a loop around the circumference of Mazatzal Peak.  Both trails are accessed from the same Barnhardt Trailhead.

While I had no plans to complete the entire nearly 15 mile loop, I did want to explore the Y Bar side of the mountain.  I had observed Douglas firs in the old-growth forests along Mazatzal Divide.  I was hoping to find some similar foliage along this hike, and Y Bar did not disappoint.  The forested areas began after several miles of climbing.  The entire elevation gain for this hike can easily be 3,000+ feet.  However, Y Bar trail is well-worn and seldom overly steep.  The elevation gain is steady, but not grueling.  The rockiness of the trail does require some extra care with footing, especially on the way down. 

The Mazatzals reach higher than the Superstitions.  The canyons and valleys are every bit dramatic, and the views are composed of wrinkly mountains covered in green foliage.  There aren't as many rock spires and needles as the Superstitions.  Some of Y Bar trail traverses old rock slides.  These are made of what looks like the most beautiful landscaping rock, but it was landscaped by mother nature.  There are narrow canyons that feel like nature's refrigerator, with cold, moist air seeping out all around.  There are sun-drenched ridges of manzanita that are often a welcome warm-up after hiking through the aforementioned icebox canyons.  

An observation we made five years ago on Barnhardt was the lack of wildlife.  Even birds chirping was a rarity.  The Y Bar ecosystem seems to also mirror this theme.  You would expect this to be bear and mountain lion country (and I'm sure it is), but evidence of these animals is almost non-existent on the trail.  The scariest encounter I had was with a fighter a jet.  Airmen from Luke AFB must've been practicing over the Mazatzals.  This extremely loud sound of thunder filled the canyon I was in.  I covered my ears in pain and crouched down--as if this would've done any good.  Panicked, I looked skyward to see a fighter jet crest over the ridge and then zoom away.  I had to take a break to stop shaking.  With how volatile the world is right now, this incident gave me quite a panic.  Or, it could have been one of those aforementioned rockslides...either way, not good. 

We traversed some beautiful, thick old-growth forest.  The smell of pine hung heavy in the air.  This was by far my favorite part of Y Bar.  Like most Arizona forests, these sections of dense tree cover never lasted long enough.  We reached a seasonal spring that was flowing a bit.  There were impressive views of Mazatzal Peak and down into what I believe was Shake Tree Canyon.  This marked the turnaround point. 

Last December we explored not-so-far-away South Fork Trail 46. In comparison, Y Bar was a far better hike in my opinion.  A big gripe about South Fork is that it is active cattle ranching land.  The herds of cattle and all their cow pies made parts of this hike unpleasant.  I'm also very fearful of livestock--more so than wild animals.  Cows can kick.  Bulls can charge.  

Last night we wrapped up about 30 minutes after sunset.  We were prepared for this and had headlamps.  Speaking of wildlife, we scared quite a few birds that were roosting in trees for the overnight. Getting back to the trailhead after dark and observing the star-studded black skies away from the valley is always a treat.  It was a great day in the Mazatzals. 

Annual Hackberry Springs

Weather:  68°, sunny

About this Hike:  Hackberry Springs is an annual Christmastime tradition. It's an easily accessible hike in the Western Superstitions. Hackberry Trail allows you to feel disconnected from the hustle and bustle of the East Valley, all while taking in the dramatic volcanic rock formations, creekbeds, and riparian areas that the Superstitions are famous for. 

In a good year what makes this a festive hike is the red berries on the hackberry bushes.  I've seen a few berries this year (including one full bush along Boulder Canyon last weekend), but nothing too dramatic.  Maybe I'm too early.  In past years I've done this hike in December.  

Regardless, the best part of one particular hackberry bush was not the lack of red berries, but rather the flock of queen butterflies (related to monarch) all over the bush.  Upon closer inspection, I noticed pale, tiny flowers on the hackberry bush.  The butterflies were busy pollinating.  

The spring was dry, although there was water around the springhead.  I saw some minnows in the pool, but nothing like the bright, iridescent topminnows of last year. 

We ended up going toward Second Water Trail and followed it south for a while.  We crossed First Water Creek several times.  Much of this area burned a couple years ago.  Aside from scorched saguaros, you'd hardly know it.  The buffalo grass is so thick again, just waiting to spontaneously combust. 

On the All Trails map I noted a path that would take us north back toward Hackberry Trail.  We also intended to visit the old First Water Ranch.  We had a difficult time finding the northbound side trail, but once discovered, it was well-worn with footprints and some equestrian evidence.  I'm not sure how it all came together, but this side trail dropped us right at First Water Ranch.

We took a nice break at the ranch.  Last year when we discovered this site for the first time, it was twilight and we were in a hurry to conclude our hike. I enjoyed studying the old artifacts including a water cistern that will never hold water again due to being used for target practice, and an old well.  I wonder when First Water Ranch was built and how long it was used for.  Rust hasn't set in to a lot of the metal, and the artifacts don't seem that old.  Since these trails get heavy equestrian use, I'm guessing it's still used to rest horses under the shaded pavilion.  

From the ranch we hiked up the old road and then we were back at Hackberry Trailhead.  

La Barge Box Canyon

Weather:  70°, sunny, windy early

About this Hike:  I've explored Boulder Canyon 103 from Canyon Lake and from Second Water more times than I can count.  While the views of Canyon Lake, Battleship Mountain, and Weaver's Needle are impressive, this is old news to me at this point.

In past years I've also explored Boulder Canyon along the western flank of the Battleship.  But I have never explored the eastern side of the Battleship which follows La Barge Canyon.  Today I decided to give this a shot.  

Although La Barge Canyon shows as a trail on the All Trails app—and the number of footprints in the sand attests to it's use as a trail—it is not an official Forest Service trail.  There is plenty of boulder hopping and some light scrambling.  There were a couple of points on the hike up the canyon where I almost turned around and gave up.  I'm glad I didn't.  I kept exploring, studying the rocks, and problem solving.  I always managed to find a navigable path up and over the boulders.  

At 1.3 miles in, my efforts paid off and I was rewarded with views of the La Barge Box Pool.  All along the canyon were pools of standing water, but the Box Pool was nice and full.  This water feature is flanked by impressive canyon walls and a thin, delicate rock needle.  

At the Box Pool the trail takes a sharp 90-degree turn.  There is a large, shady tree (ironwood?) with a campsite underneath.  The trail leaves the creek bed and appears to be normal dirt track again.  This would wrap around the backside of the Battleship and eventually join Boulder Canyon Trail 103, effectively making it a 'lollipop' loop hike.  Taking the Boulder Canyon route would add at least 1.5 miles to my hike.  I was at the midpoint for daylight, and I had drank more water than expected.  Additionally, I wondered at the trail condition, especially on the backside of the Battleship.  Would it be overgrown?  Difficult to follow?  I opted to return the way I came via La Barge Canyon.  

The hike out of La Barge was surprisingly easier than the hike in.  The scrambles and boulder hops didn't seem as intimidating, and I was back at the junction for Boulder Canyon within an hour.  I enjoyed reflecting pools of water, fall color, and cliff views on the way out of La Barge. 

I find La Barge Canyon a very intriguing ecosystem, just like the rest of the Superstitions.  You can read about a another La Barge hike that I did about one year ago.  I'm glad to have explored another end of this majestic canyon.