Wintry West Fork

Weather:  ~40° and sunny

About this Hike:  Years ago I visited the Sedona tourist trap known as West Fork. Back then there was a 20 minute wait in line followed by a $9 parking fee.

Being as COVID made everyone an outdoorsman and Sedona has become even more overrun with tourists, I never planned to visit West Fork again.

That changed after I drove by it on the way up to Flagstaff for some snowshoeing yesterday. In fact, West Fork was closed, but people were parked outside the gate.

I decided to head up to West Fork today, snowshoeing gear loaded in the truck. I had no idea what to expect. In fact, I had no expectations at all, just an open mind. Upon arrival the parking lot was plowed and the gates open. The guard shack was staffed, meaning I had to pay the now $12 parking fee. But unlike most any other season, there were only a few cars in the parking lot and open spaces were plentiful. Several inches of fresh powder covered the ground, rivaling what I experienced up in Flag yesterday.

I strapped on my snowshoes and ventured out. As I passed through the ruins of the old buildings and across the wooden footbridge, I began to realize I got way more than I expected. Red rock cliffs soared up thousands of feet. The forest looked enchanted with snow clinging to the ponderosas and firs that grow in this lush canyon. The crossings over Oak Creek were never too difficult, thanks to surprisingly thick ice sheeting. Still, I used abundant caution, tapping the ice with my snowshoe poles and determining alternate routes if the ice cracked or appeared weak. Thankfully my efforts paid off and I never got a ‘hot’ foot in Oak Creek.

Enjoying the solitude and scenery around me, I pushed to complete the West Fork trail—a goal that I eventually met. A sign at the end advises the maintained trail is done. Brave hikers can continue down the canyon, although a narrow, deep pool awaits as the creek now becomes one with the trail. I pushed on just a little further past the sign. I wanted to see this pool. It wasn’t far ahead. In fact the sun hitting the steep red cliffs made the ice glow pink. It was a fitting end.

I turned around and hiked out the way I came. My feet were soaked. Snow finds its way into boots no matter what you do. Gratefully my feet never got cold, just very wet. I knew I had to hustle, as the sun was behind the canyon walls by 3PM. The sun had been warm in the canyon and the beautiful power I snowshoed across this morning was now heavy, wet snow. It was sticking to my crampons and making my snowshoes very heavy…along with my soaked socks.  

As the fence line, footbridge, and ruins came into view, I was ready to wrap it up for the day. However, I thoroughly enjoyed the scenery and serenity a wintertime hike along the 6.5 mile West Fork trail offers. I never thought I’d explore West Fork again, much less have it almost to myself (minus a few other brave hikers). I got my $12 worth, for sure.

Spanish Ruins via Doll Baby

Weather:  65°, mostly sunny

About this Hike:  I originally read about the hike up to Spanish Ruins via Doll Baby Trail last January. After looking at a home for sale in Payson, we set out to visit Doll Baby, but the dirt road was extremely muddy and rutted. We opted to turn around and went to Peach Orchard Trail that day instead. My intention was to return to Doll Baby in a drier season.

Now Payson is home, and with unseasonable warmth and dryness, I decided it was time to give Doll Baby another shot. 

The road was dry, save for where water always trickles across the road near the sewer treatment plant. I don't know if I want to know the reason why there seems to be a perennial stream in this area...

What's really intriguing about this hike is the drive to get there. The road goes from dirt, to good paved road, and then back to dirt again. There are also utility boxes for electric and fire hydrants. Why is there so much developed infrastructure along a forest road? My best guess is that it serves the ranches in the area. 

Finally we reached the Doll Baby TH and parked. We had it all to ourselves. I've read this is a boring hike. I'd have to beg to differ. There's very intriguing geology in this area. Red and purple Mazatzal quartzite is scattered on the ground. I was admiring a Sedona-esque red rock cliff face that loomed just above the hiking trail. The hike at this point involves climbing a steep hill on an old road. 

Upon passing a large metal gate, an immediate left turn reveals the side trail up on top of that same red-rock cliff face. The side trail can be confusing. People have set up cairns, but I believe more than one route has been traversed. It involved a lot of off-trail trial and error. The red cliff facings form the edge of a mesa, and once we'd hiked and scrambled a bit, we were on top. The search for the ruins site had commenced. 

We got off trail quite a few more times. Hiking GPS definitely helped to re-orient us, especially after following a few oddly placed cairns. 

Eventually we got to the ruins site. It is much bigger than I anticipated. I wonder how whoever created this structure found so many relatively flat red stones to build these walls out of. There is no mortar between the stones and they have fallen in a few places. However, the walls are surprisingly sturdy. I imagine whoever built this used it as a lookout on the Verde River valley far below. 

And that brings up another point I wish to mention. The Verde River is lined with sycamores and cottonwoods. I want to revisit this area in the fall. I imagine the color is fantastic. 

After hanging out at the ruins for a while, we hiked back to Doll Baby TH and did a quick side trip over to the Verde River. Being as this is right in Payson's backyard, I look forward to exploring more of this area in the future. 

North Peak 24

Weather:  57°, mostly sunny

About this Hike:  With 2,800+ feet of elevation gain, a hike up North Peak Trail sounded like the perfect end to a four-day Thanksgiving weekend filled with feasting. 

The trailhead is on FR 414-A, which is a turn off from FR-414. I'm glad I studied the map carefully and was aware of this. The parking area is just a "lollipop" road, but I had it all to myself. 

The trail starts in a riparian area along Mineral Creek. Had I visited a week or two earlier, I would've been treated to some nice fall color among the sycamores, cottonwoods, and (what I assume to be) sumac. A few colored leaves were still hanging on, but the peak color has certainly passed for this year.

Most of the 2,800 feet of elevation gain come at you fast. The climb is steep. Remember that what goes up has to come down... But as you ascend the views keep getting better. Look up for some cool Mazatzal quartzite formations and look down for views into the canyon made up by the lower reaches of the trail's namesake North Peak. 

As I climbed higher the views just got better and better. Today was a rare clear day in Arizona. The snow-capped Humphrey's Peak up near Flagstaff eventually came into view. 

While the hike is seldom completely flat, the brutal elevation gain eventually settles down into more of a "roller coaster." There's climbs up hills and then drops into ravines. This is the best part of the hike, in my opinion.  The scenery is typical of the Mazatzals with wrinkly green mountains in the distance, stunning rock formations, and distant canyons. One thing lacking on this hike is old-growth forest. I  believe much of it may have burned around 20 years ago. Some areas are showing signs of recovery, but the massive old ponderosas are sparse. Enjoy the few brief stands of them that remain. 

I didn't quite finish North Peak Trail. It ends at Mazatzal Divide Trail, and I opted to turn back with just about a mile to go. The air was getting chilly and I knew the hike down was going to be treacherous. 

The typical Mazatzal ecosystem and the stunning views are what make this hike worth it. Whether or not I'll be back is TBD. Now that Payson is home, there are still so many other trails around here I look forward to exploring. 

Rock Creek 42

Weather:  70°, sunny

About this Hike:  Rock Creek Trail 42 sounded intriguing. This hike thru the Mazatzals was supposed to take you by a waterfall before the trail ends at Mazatzal Divide Trail. 

I drove to the trailhead via forest roads accessed from Rye just off AZ-87. In theory you could follow this same FR-414 down from Payson. While I'm sure it's a beautiful drive, I prefer to limit my time off the pavement. 

The drive in was OK, save for the two final creek crossings which featured large boulders and were  uncomfortable. My Tacoma made it thru unscathed. 

A well-marked 'TH42' sign indicates the start of Rock Creek Trail. Initially the hike follows the creek, and I honestly think this is some of the best part of the hike. The sycamores lining the creekbed were in full orange array of fall color, and the few cottonwoods were just beginning to turn yellow. The creekbed is a rainbow of boulders grey, grey-blue, and red-purple. 

The 2,000+ feet of elevation gain comes at you quickly and steeply on this well-maintained trail. As I reached the red-purple Mazatzal quartzite ridges, that began to change. Manzanita overgrowth began to pose more of a challenge. While the trail was still visible and the bushwhacking not impassable, it was annoying. Sometimes I was sidestepping manzanita while trying to avoid impalement by the spiky yuccas near the trail. 

I reached the rock formations and came to a perfect rock bench in the shade. There were beautiful views down to Highway 87, the Mogollon Rim, and the eastern Mazatzals. Beyond this, the trail had a sheer drop off. As in, get your ankle caught in some overgrowth and you very well may fall to your death. I have an extreme fear of heights and seeing this ledge caused me a panic attack. I opted to sit on the rock bench, eat lunch, and contemplate my next move. I was sick of bushwhacking, and honestly the map indicated the trail was going to be more of the same the rest of the way to the waterfall—steep, sheer drops, and likely overgrown. 

As I've found myself doing more and more lately, I made the tough decision to turn back, not having reached my goal at the waterfall. By the way, the waterfall was sure to be dry, but I still wanted to see those cool rock formations that water spills over when the creeks are flowing. 

The hike down was uneventful, although I was very cautious considering the steepness of the trail. The Mazatzals have a lot to offer in terms of rock formations and cool high-desert-to-forest scenery. There are better options than Rock Creek 42 in my opinion...

Halloweekend Tradition Lives On

Weather:  81°, sunny, hot

About this Hike:  Haunted Canyon has been a Halloween-time tradition for a fourth year in a row now. My pattern is to alternate each year between the lower trailhead and the upper trailhead. This meant that 2023 was the year to visit from the steeper, tougher upper trailhead. My last visit here was in 2021.

I can't say much has changed in two years. The drive up is a little sketchy but not unbearable by any means. In past years I've done this in October. I opted to try it a little later this year to enjoy the brilliant yellow fall color of the sycamores that line creekbeds in this ecosystem. 

There is a segment of this trail that was full of overgrowth and bushwhacking. Despite getting some maintenance this spring, the bushes are growing back. While not impassable by any means, the bushwhack is annoying. I brought my clippers and did some trimming to try and make it a little less annoying. 

I saw plenty of friendly deer—some a little too friendly. Are other hikers feeding them? I also saw plenty of bear evidence, but thankfully no bears. 

The creeks are bone dry this year, although the several spring heads along this hike were dripping. Otherwise I had the parking area, the trail, and the canyon to myself. I never saw another vehicle or hiker on this exceptionally warm fall day. 

Seeing Fall Color

Weather:  63°; sun and clouds

About this Hike:  It has been just over five years since I last visited See Canyon. Back then I did this steep climb on a hot, humid August afternoon. I'm not sure what I was thinking back then, although I do remember it being a beautiful hike...

We came out here today to experience some Arizona fall color, which thus far this year has been lacking. See Canyon did not disappoint. I was fortunate to get one of the last parallel parking spaces along the 284 road. The main lot was full. 

Upon arriving at the parking area we were greeted with red and orange maples. As we hiked into the canyon the scenery only got better. We did the side trip over to See Spring which was flowing nicely. It's fascinating to watch how these springs go underground and then re-emerge right out of the side of a rock pile. 

The higher we climbed into the canyon, the better the fall color became. While the reds, yellows, and oranges were mostly attributed to maples, a few aspens in the higher elevations also showed off their golden leaves. All of this fall color is complimented by evergreens, striking rim views, and dramatic dry creek beds. 

The final part of this hike is very steep. It's like the bulk of the 2,000+ feet of elevation gain all comes at once. Approaching the rim, the landscape changes. The rocks become a pale color with some rust spots. The soil gets rockier. The vibrant mix of colorful maples and evergreen firs gives way to spotty grassland and ponderosa pine. The few deciduous trees at this elevation were already bare of leaves.  We turned back at Forest Road 300 (Rim Road) and hiked back down the way we came. 

Despite only being about 3:30pm, the shadows were long in the canyon and the temperatures began to drop quickly, despite brilliant sunshine still lighting the cliffs above. We returned to a now almost empty parking area just as the sun began its final descent and the full moon began to rise.  

Four Peaks Return via El Oso Road

Weather:  79°; mostly sun

About this Hike:  Five-and-a-half years ago I first visited Browns Peak via Lone Pine Trailhead in the Four Peaks. I got there in an old 2WD Nissan Xterra. I drove in via the west approach on FR-143, and having no prior off-road driving experience, it was probably more than I should have attempted. That story is memorialized here.

I mentioned that the only way I'd return to Four Peaks would be via El Oso Road. Now that Payson is home, this approach to Four Peaks is right in my backyard. On the east side of the range near Tonto Basin, El Oso is shorter and said to be in better condition. Overall, I'd say this is true. El Oso does have some shelf portions, blind curves, and extremely tight switchbacks. It was not a fun drive even in a properly equipped 4x4 pickup. Back in 2018 I marveled at a Mitsubishi Mirage that made it to the trailhead. This year I marveled at a Honda Civic Si that somehow navigated the rough road.

Today it was my goal to explore the Amethyst Trail including the jaunt out to the Four Peaks Mine. In 2018 fire damage was evident on Four Peaks, although the area was recovering since a bad fire in 1996. Much of that recovery was undone thanks to Bush Fire in 2020, and I was curious to see what, if anything, had survived this latest inferno. 

At the Lone Pine Trailhead I noted that fire had burned all the trees that greet you at the information sign. The railroad tie steps at the beginning of the trail were mostly burned up, and the erosion was terrible. Since I previously explored Brown's Peak Trail, I opted to start with Amethyst. The signs at the trailhead call it Four Peaks Trail 130. Regardless, this trail went through some areas of gamble oak and scraggly ponderosa. As Browns Peak came into view, some fall color was evident on the hillside. Overall, despite fire damage, there was a little bit of forest to enjoy. The ascent up toward Browns was very steep and rocky. Eventually I reached the saddle and made a wrong turn. I started up the side trail to the scree chute. Much as I'd like to say that I summited on Brown's, I wasn't willing to attempt that scree chute in 2018 nor was I willing to take another stab at it in 2023. 

I was actually looking for the trail that leads to the Four Peaks Amethyst Mine. It's not easy to find, and I skidded on nearly all fours down a hillside to reach it. Had I looked near the saddle by a fire ring and campsite, I would've found that the trail does connect, it's just not marked at all. 

Previous reviews I read of the one-and-three-quarter mile mine trail indicate it suffers from overgrowth. Thanks to some recent maintenance, the trail is passable. Shears in hand, I helped add to that trail maintenance in areas where oak and catclaw were beginning to crowd the narrow footpath again. Overall it's easy to follow, although I did lose the trail a couple of times. One time I got off trail and nearly took a nasty tumble. My best advise is pack a lot of patience for this hike. Despite a relatively short distance, it has to be taken slowly and carefully. You cannot hustle on this trail; there are just too many obstacles to be wary of. 

Finally I reached the locked gate for the amethyst mine. You can see the mine building up on the hillside. There is a sign that I'm guessing was a boundary marker, although now it's a charred mess. Seeing the mine is neat. But I think the real reward on this hike is the views. You have to keep stopping to look up. This trail is taking you by all four summits that compose the Four Peaks. Study them carefully. There's interesting foliage, rock formations, and even a few little rock arches. Looking the other direction, you'll see panoramic vistas of the Superstition Mountains, Salt River reservoirs, and maybe even a little bit of the Phoenix Valley poking up through the smoggy haze. 

I returned via Brown's Trail, effectively making this a 'lollipop' loop. My two liters of water gave out as I was hiking away from the mine, and I was rationing my reserve bottle until I got back to the truck where more water was waiting in the cooler. Much of the gamble oak forest near the top of Brown's is still in tact and provided welcome shade. This was a nice break from what's otherwise a mostly hot, exposed hike. The trees eventually give way to fire damage as you get closer to the trailhead. Many trees are down across the trail, and you either go up and over, or hikers have made side trails to get around. 

The Four Peaks are an iconic Arizona landmark. In this unique sky island, pine trees fight to grow in what still feels like more of a high-desert landscape than it should at near 6,000 feet. The views are magnificent. However, this is rough, unforgiving country. My honest opinion is that while it is worth doing, Four Peaks is not someplace I'll be rushing back to. Other places (i.e. Mount Peeley) in the Mazatzals are much prettier. And as a whole, Arizona has far more beautiful places to explore.